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Posted
You're luckier than me. Mine's only 17 months and 32K, and it goes dead. But it's prob my fault since I was caught in a jam the other day and kept using the starter and cutting off the engine.

 

 

 

 

2 things possible. Both symptomatic of R1 engines.

 

1. Sticky clutch. Some R1s had a problem with the clutch grease. Apparently there was too much and it made the clutch stick to the point that it could kill the engine when engaged. The fix was to take out the entire clutch and clean off the grease by soaking in engine oil. A job for the mechanic.

 

Alternatively, one guy found that buy lying his bike when hot, on the right side, the EO soaked up the clutch grease.

 

2. TPS problem... seems less likely in your case, but anyway... Engine rpm will stumble when you're idling, and sometimes when you throttle up, it will jerk a bit at the lower range. If you shift from N to 1, it might just kill the engine.

 

The fix is... well... complicated. Gotta open up the tank and airbox and throttle bodies to reach the TPS. Then you gotta take it out and apply contact cleaner into the TPS itself. Must also be calibrated before and after you take it out/put it back.

 

 

Any idea how much TPS would cost ?

Posted
Btw I'm guessing tat the new batt needs charging before usage coz it shows only 10.8v on the multimeter. Pls correct me if i'm wrong.

 

Really?

 

I would have thought that after you plunged the sulfuric acid into the batt, you'd have to let it set for abt 30 mins before you can install it into the bike for use.

 

U still need to charge it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted (edited)
Really?

 

I would have thought that after you plunged the sulfuric acid into the batt, you'd have to let it set for abt 30 mins before you can install it into the bike for use.

 

U still need to charge it?

 

Dun scared me leh bro... I bought the OEM batt from AutoMachinery didn't come wit any sulfuric acid along with it leh. I remembered changing my R1 batt also dun have any sulfuric acid to dump into the batt.

Edited by E.M.F

Health Warning!

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Posted
yes bro... this will usually be the case for all new batteries... after charging, it would be strong and good... hahaha... :D

 

Lucky me i bought the batt charger from friendly Mr Lim.:angel:

Health Warning!

BootLicking is not good for your ASS!!!

:D

Posted
me too... :thumb:

i alws tries to do a charging session every 1 mth... :D

 

Be abit kiasu lah bro. Got free electricity in the office mah. Charge 2x a month lah.. :cheeky:

Health Warning!

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:D

Posted
Be abit kiasu lah bro. Got free electricity in the office mah. Charge 2x a month lah.. :cheeky:

 

hahaha.. me too.. i charge my batt in my office carpark too and the management officer is my buddy.. hahaha! hence i got the special privilege.. :D

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http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294858_10151604125922840_1202025127_n.jpg

Posted
Dun scared me leh bro... I bought the OEM batt from AutoMachinery didn't come wit any sulfuric acid along with it leh. I remembered changing my R1 batt also dun have any sulfuric acid to dump into the batt.

 

I think the OEM one should be factory activated. So it's all sealed. That may explain why you needed to charge it in the first place.

 

The one I'm looking at is the lead-acid user activated version. TTZ14S. Not the YTZ14S.

 

I don't need to spend 50% more on an OEM which probably lasts the same as the cheaper alternative. It's after all just a battery, and not a performance part. As long as it puts out 12 to 14V and 11A, it works the same. :angel:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted
I think the OEM one should be factory activated. So it's all sealed. That may explain why you needed to charge it in the first place.

 

The one I'm looking at is the lead-acid user activated version. TTZ14S. Not the YTZ14S.

 

I don't need to spend 50% more on an OEM which probably lasts the same as the cheaper alternative. It's after all just a battery, and not a performance part. As long as it puts out 12 to 14V and 11A, it works the same. :angel:

 

Wah got cheaper alternatives tat can last as long as the OEM ones ah? Where to get them? Whats the price difference? kns i got the OEM batt at $215 sia...

Health Warning!

BootLicking is not good for your ASS!!!

:D

Posted
Wah got cheaper alternatives tat can last as long as the OEM ones ah? Where to get them? Whats the price difference? kns i got the OEM batt at $215 sia...

 

Lemme see. For FZ1.

 

Quoted from Regina:

Yuasa :YTZ14S Made in Japan - $140

Yuasa :Made in TW (I assume the TTZ14S) - $85

 

I'll simply go with the cheaper one. If it lasts only a year, hell, it'll still be better than a $200 OEM which lasted me 1.5 yrs. Besides... I've seemed to master the art of run-starting an FZ1 in 2nd gear and pushing it along at 10kph. LOL....

 

85:200 vs 1:1.5

 

Doesn't add up right?

U do the math. :angel:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted
Lemme see. For FZ1.

 

Quoted from Regina:

Yuasa :YTZ14S Made in Japan - $140

Yuasa :Made in TW (I assume the TTZ14S) - $85

 

I'll simply go with the cheaper one. If it lasts only a year, hell, it'll still be better than a $200 OEM which lasted me 1.5 yrs. Besides... I've seemed to master the art of run-starting an FZ1 in 2nd gear and pushing it along at 10kph. LOL....

 

85:200 vs 1:1.5

 

Doesn't add up right?

U do the math. :angel:

 

Pls dun add salt the the existing wound. :cry:

1 expensive lesson learnt today.

Health Warning!

BootLicking is not good for your ASS!!!

:D

Posted
nope bro, its something liek the below picture

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v640/lumpy790/medDSC00005.jpg

 

paiseh... :cheeky: for this hose, unique got sell... :angel:

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http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294858_10151604125922840_1202025127_n.jpg

Posted
Lemme see. For FZ1.

 

Quoted from Regina:

Yuasa :YTZ14S Made in Japan - $140

Yuasa :Made in TW (I assume the TTZ14S) - $85

 

I'll simply go with the cheaper one. If it lasts only a year, hell, it'll still be better than a $200 OEM which lasted me 1.5 yrs. Besides... I've seemed to master the art of run-starting an FZ1 in 2nd gear and pushing it along at 10kph. LOL....

 

85:200 vs 1:1.5

 

Doesn't add up right?

U do the math. :angel:

 

Ohhh. So hw much does the battery for fz6 cost.? isit the same as fz1 battery.?

Posted
Ohhh. So hw much does the battery for fz6 cost.? isit the same as fz1 battery.?

 

it's cheaper bro... i asked that day when i accompany my fz1 frn who is buying his battery... fz6 battery cost around $110... fz1 battery cost around $160... :)

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:)

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http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/294858_10151604125922840_1202025127_n.jpg

Posted
nope bro, its something liek the below picture

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v640/lumpy790/medDSC00005.jpg

 

if im not wrong, its called exhaust sliders, unique selling i think $25..:thumb:

sonic125 july2004-may2007 ~passed 2B may2004

drzsm400 may2007-march2009 ~passed 2A july2006

x1r july2008-oct2009

Current Rides

fz6n s1 oct2009-??? ~passed class 2 august 2009

triumph tiger 800 feb2012-???

:angel:

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