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Posted

I have been wondering on installing a digital speedo as well. Is there anyone who have done it before?

Hi all, may I know is it possible to change the analogue meter to Koso Digital Meter? Where do you all advice to go? Is it legal?
  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

hye everyone...i'm really love my roadwin and still maintain it since 2004 till now...my bike broke down last week and need to rebored my block to fits new 150cc piston(suzuki gs) and using clutchplate from(honda ex5)....please help me to find camshaft and rockerarm for my roadwin 125 naked...now part for this bike are really rare here in malaysia...i think only me riding this bike in KL....thank you guys

Posted

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/158-Choong-Kok-Agency-Pte-Ltd

 

try contact choong kok agency, they r daelim agent in sillypore n malaysai.

 

 

Forum: Choong Kok Agency Pte Ltd

 

DAELIM - Sole Agent

 

Headquaters

79 Kaki Bukit Ave 1, Shunli Industrial Park

Singapore 417952

Tel: (65) 6748 5455, Fax: (65) 6748 3433

 

Bukit Batok Branch

50 Midview Building, #02-20 Bukit Batok St 23

Singapore 659578

Tel: (65) 6861 3005, Fax: (65) 6861 3008

 

Jurong Branch

Blk 343 Jurong East St 31, #01-63

Singapore 600343

Tel: (65) 6566 6180, Fax: (65) 6566 6606

 

Toh Guan Branch

34 Toh Guan Road East #01-27, Capital One Industrial Park

Singapore 608579

Tel: (65) 6316 1468, Fax: (65) 6316 1489

 

MLE Malaysia

19 & 21, SBC 1, Taman Sri Batu Caves

68100 Batu Caves

Selangor, Darul Ehsan, Malaysia

Tel: (60) 03 - 6188 3348, Fax: (60) 03 - 6187 8410

 

Email : sales@CKA.com.sg

Website: http://www.cka.com.sg

Posted

u r in the wrong thread, roadwin thread here is the old first generation roadwin (few left on the road, 8 yrs old).

 

roadwinR (roadsport) is the sport bike (third generation), visit link below in sport section, roadwinR thread;

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/199449-Daelim-roadwin-r-125?p=7546863#post7546863

 

roadwinR frame n size is about the same, engine is totally different from first gen.

 

roadwinR engine is water-cool, fuel injection, 4 valves 4-strokes engine.

 

$5k for two yrs old is reasonable, consider if u buy any new bikes which will probably cost more than $5k with coe at $1.9k.

Posted
u r in the wrong thread, roadwin thread here is the old first generation roadwin (few left on the road, 8 yrs old).

 

roadwinR (roadsport) is the sport bike (third generation), visit link below in sport section, roadwinR thread;

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/199449-Daelim-roadwin-r-125?p=7546863#post7546863

 

roadwinR frame n size is about the same, engine is totally different from first gen.

 

roadwinR engine is water-cool, fuel injection, 4 valves 4-strokes engine.

 

$5k for two yrs old is reasonable, consider if u buy any new bikes which will probably cost more than $5k with coe at $1.9k.

 

Hi stsoh, opps, sorry for posting in wrong thread, but still thanks alot for your information!

Posted (edited)

Hi folks,need some specs here.

 

Currently riding an x5.

 

any idea what's the model of K&N air filter to use for RW? or our air intake diameter?

Just got myself a RW manual and thinking of doing my own repairs..heh..

 

Nowadays no $$. All spent on part-time school fees..thinking of doing everything myself

Edited by Greenfin2001
insert more info.
Posted (edited)

basically u dont need knn air filter, will not increase any more power for a 124cc or X5 140cc engine.

if u understand air-cool engine 124cc will produce output of 11hp n 140cc will give output of about 12hp, ie if carb is tuned correctly (14.7:1 air/fuel wt ratio).

if ur bike need repair dont waste time doing it urself, its better to let cka do it 4u.

work more part time jobs n save money for ur bike repairs.

 

basically if u want riding improvements, these r wat i recommend:

1) play around with sprockets ratio (sr), eg. stock 42t/14t = 3.0, (ie. 42 teeth rear sprocket n 14 teeth front sprocket).

u can change front sprocket to 15 teeth which give sr 42t/15t = 2.8, sr 44t/15t = 2.9.

advantage of sr 2.8 give higher top speed but slower acceleration (pickup). also with 12 hp does not have power to make up to redline, max at 9.5k rpm.

need to balance wat u prefer, i use sr 44t/15t = 2.9 which max at 10k rpm @ 120 kph.

sr 2.8 vib lesser than sr 3.0 becos engine has to work harder due to heavier load.

 

2) rear tyre size also plays a part due to different circumference length like 140/60 (stock), 140/70 has longer circumference length.

technically if u understand, give u an example scooters have small wheels their launch at stop light turn green r always faster than others.

 

3) to really improve engine performance, tune ur carb.

if u want to save fuel due to high fuel cost n run very lean. pls change ur bike n ride a moped (kup).

if u dont know what to do with carb, here what i recommend:

go down to FJT at rowell rd n buy main jet #102 n slow jet #40, they r cheap less than S$10 each.

bring these 2 cka n let them change it 4 u, then tell them to set pilot(air)-screw at 1.5 (one n a half) turns (what it means bottom down n turn back 1.5 turns, note: do not use force when it bottomed otherwise the tip of pilot-screw will break) n change jet-needle eclip location from 2nd to 3rd slot (recommend apply water-pipe seal tape around the slots n clip into it, it is to prevent slot wear due to engine vib causing the steel clip worn out the soft aluminum needle slot neck). these changes will gives the best optimal engine performance at sea level but fc will avg 27km/l.

 

i dont encourage lean settings like those having fc 30 n above km/l, reasons r:

1) engine performance will be under power.

 

2) engine will overheat, more fuel saved will generate more heat.

problems from overheating eg. engine seizure, over-cooked engine oil breakdown faster, lost all its properties become useless, cant lubricate, cant protect engine. much worst will happen, it will evaporate n form sludge which block orifices n there will be no pressurized oil flow. sludge is known as black death for engine.

 

3) dont lower idling speed below recommended 1.5k rpm, reason for this is, low rpm at start cause oil starvation, wat it means is the low engine rpm, low oil pump rotations, cant pump up oil n maintain pressures thru the oil system. it also cant splash up oil onto the cylinder wall for piston rings lubrication.

 

too much for u to absorb, just do one thing at a time.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hmm...icic..

 

Personally it wasn't much about money but i was just thinking of doing my own repairs just to get to know my bike better :)

I truly enjoy riding the x5, but to tinker around with this bike to its full potential is just another joy to me.

 

Thanks for the useful tip bro, and keep this forum alive!

Posted (edited)

another tip for all roadwin owners;

i strongly recommend use Royal Purple Max-Cycle 20W-50 engine oil.

http://www.royalpurple.com/product-categories/motorcycle/#!max-cycle-motorcycle-engine-oil

 

so far i tried many brands n find this is the best.....but difficult to find in any bike shops.

u can buy it at a retail shop at tanjong pagar plaza, block 2, #02-20, its a narrow partition of a shop (rent out both side to others, closed on sunday).

map link:

http://www.streetdirectory.com/asia_travel/travel/travel_id_8912/travel_site_3961/

just as u thought, tanjong pagar plaza in CBD n not easy to park illegally.

i usually park along cantoment link, outside of southpoint building (just out of cbd boundary).

there is a bike parking lot, park ur bike n walk across, cut pass keppel towers to reach tanjong pagar plaza.

 

if u can DIY oil change n dispose used oil at cka (free-of-charge, other shop may charge S$2 for disposal).

otherwise bring eo n let cka change it 4u, there will be a service charge.

 

note:

last time i brought was priced at S$19.50 per bottle, price may have increase.

do not buy the cheaper motor-oil priced at S$11.50, it is meant for car use.

u may experience lower idling rpm n need to readjust it up to 1.5k rpm (when hot).

 

ps:

i've encountered many mechs whom say black oil is bad oil which is what they say about rp eo.

this show how much they knows about oil properties, most sillypore mechs r malaysai n not technical train, worst of them r chiina mechs (monkey see, monkey do with bull strength to destroy ur bike).

rp eo is dark purple color, will be darker than black when drained. if an oil remain clean than there is really something not right, dont u think so?

oil have detergent property which suspend carbon that will be trap by the filter, it will turn black with carbon particles smaller than micron of the filter itself.

sludge is black gluey sticky stuff n will hardened over high heat which is norm with overheated engine, eg. its like the same charred stuff u see on a frying pan.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hi, my chain needs to be replaced soon. Can anyone recommend me any chain to replace with, the place that i can get it from and rough;y how much it cost. i enquired at CKA and was quoted 160 for the original one.

Posted (edited)

u can ask any bike shop for chain n sprockets, they r common.

if the shop say dun have what u want then go to another shop.

it's cheaper to get from other bike shop than cka, since cka is daelim agent.

like any other agents eg. honda, yamaha, kawasaki, suzuki, will charge 10~20% more from others.

 

for chain, always look for highest tensile strength tat the chain can withstand.

for sprockets, normal will do (there r no special sprockets for rw).

mopeds, small bikes like rw use 428 pitch, big bikes use 520, 525, 530 pitch for chain n sprockets.

 

i recommend RK 'XW' chain (RK GB428GXW), ask for 130 links (shorter wont fit)

RK 'XW' chain (RK GB428GXW) is the strongest tensile strength for 428 pitch chain.

MUST use 15 teeth front sprocket becos 14 teeth sprocket retainer will hit the chain (very large links).

reasons: tensile strength of the chain will prevent stretching, last longer than others, less need to constantly adjust the chain.

 

i seen advertised RK 'XW' 428 chain by advertiser in sbf.....hunt/shop around u may get the best deal.

dun get chain shorter than 130 links, mopeds like kup use 110 links.

rw use 130 links chain.

 

note:

always change a set, tat means front sprocket, rear sprocket n chain.

reason: if change only the chain, old worn out sprockets will damage the new chain.

likewise if change sprockets using old chain will damage the new sprockets.

tats why u must always change a set of sprockets n chain.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

All right.for the sprocket right, is there any brand or that any normal bike shops carry them? One last query is roughly how much is the RK chain?

Posted (edited)

normal steel sprockets they r made in thailand, india or china.

cant say brand-less, not familiar to be exact, all bike shops stock r the same.

oem will be more expensive.

i got my rk xw chain couple yrs back from a rundown old bike shop along changi rd.

seldom ride still in good condition after 5,000 km, have not adjust the chain yet.

i think its around s$110 for the chain only.

price probably increased, just ask around.

maybe u can ask LAB (lim ah boy), cheapest but worst workmanship in sillypore.

i brought rear 44t sprocket for s$8/pc at lab DIY compare to any bike shop with installation cost s$20.

bike shops normally charge s$10~20 for workmanship depending on difficulty n time spend on work.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hi all... i thinking of changing my bike.. then engine starting to get a wierd sound.. most prolly its the piston. cause metal sound coming out from it.

 

im thinking of getting Honda PCX 125.. think its worth it? Or should i go for other bikes? Im 183cm.. need bike more for travelling..

Posted (edited)

if an engine make weird metal sound, its big trouble but then it wont be able to start n run.

 

r u using stock exhaust header?

metal sound can be the exhaust header inner sleeve cracked.

the pulsing of exhaust gas cause the crack sleeve to bound makes the metal sound.

either u find ways to completely remove the inner sleeve or cut section of it off or replace it with new header which will eventually crack later.

even if u wield the cracked inner sleeve it will crack again, best solution is find way to cut cracked section of inner sleeve off leaving a gap so tat no metal contact no sound.

 

 

if not then take this opportunity to upgrade using x5 bigger piston n rebore cyl to 140cc.

repair ur bike will cost much lesser then getting another bike.

unless u plan to scrap it at end of its coe then its better to change ur bike.

 

i'm not sure whether this is true or not, 10 yrs coe extension can be renew.

but the extended 5 yrs coe must scrap after 5 yrs.

i like this bike, so my plan is to extend coe til is a totally unusable.

Edited by stsoh
Posted (edited)

another tip for rw owners;

imo, i strongly recommend install two copper gaskets at the exhaust header to engine mount.

 

reason: to reduce stress on the exhaust header n prevent induce crack.

its like a 'see-saw' effect, by place one extra gasket will shift up the muffler n align the muffler/bracket mount holes.

normally cka mechs r not bother about the slight mis-align cos its easy lift n secure it but in a long run it will induce crack due to heat n vibrations.

 

procedure of installation:

1) put two gaskets n install the header first, hand screw-in the middle bottom bolt then secure the engine mount nuts (apply loctite on the threads) and tighten the middle bottom bolt (apply copper anti-seize grease on the thread).

 

2) mount the muffler with the gasket onto the header n secure the four allen bolts (apply copper anti-seize grease on the thread).

 

3) check the muffler mount hole n the bracket mount hole, it should be very close if not aligned.

 

4) insert n secure the muffler mount bolt.

 

end.

 

important note:

re-tighten the engine header mount nuts again after two days ride n after a week ride.

reapply loctite on the threads and secure the nuts, tighten both nuts evenly.

do it again after a week ride, its to prevent the secure nuts from loosening cos the gaskets will get flatten after days of ride.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

hi s

 

mmm.. yes i know the metal sound from the exhaust.. but its not from there. got a high pitch 'metal' sound near the engine. some where on top of the engine.

 

Yes i heard the extend your COE.. i think you are right. can extend for 10 years and extend again. But if 5 years, have to scrap after 5 years.

Posted

basically on top of the engine is the cam shaft, rockers n valves.

at the side of the engine is the cam timing chain, chain slider n chain tensioner.

its better u let cka mech diagnose it.....dun wait til it becomes a bigger problem.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wah... Still strong in the forum ah uncle soh~

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Recite ! In the name of thy Lord and Cherisher, Who created-

Created man, out of a (mere) clot of congealed blood:

Recite ! And thy Lord is Most Bountiful,-

He Who taught (the use of) the pen,-

Taught man that which he knew not.

Posted

Is it normal to cruise 100km/h ard 8rpm or more? And 1st gear pick up CMI..

 

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