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Posted
Is it normal to cruise 100km/h ard 8rpm or more? And 1st gear pick up CMI..

 

Sent from my Dell Streak using Tapatalk

yes, apparently u r using rear tire 140/70, front sprocket 15t, cruising 100 kph @ 8,000 rpm.

 

using stock rear tire 140/60 n stock sprocket ratio 14t/42t, 100 kph @ 9,000 rpm.

stock redline 110 kph @ 10,000 rpm.

 

this bike is using a small 4 strokes 10hp engine.

apparently it look great n many do felt tat it can go very fast.

my advise, up shift gears @ 4.5~5k rpm.

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Posted
Wah... Still strong in the forum ah uncle soh~

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

wats up?

 

im using this bike as hobby.....no m to change new bike.

Posted (edited)
Is it normal to cruise 100km/h ard 8rpm or more? And 1st gear pick up CMI..

 

Sent from my Dell Streak using Tapatalk

 

yes, apparently u r using rear tire 140/70, front sprocket 15t, cruising 100 kph @ 8,000 rpm.

 

using stock rear tire 140/60 n stock sprocket ratio 14t/42t, 100 kph @ 9,000 rpm.

stock redline 110 kph @ 10,000 rpm.

 

this bike is using a small 4 strokes 10hp engine.

apparently it look great n many do felt tat it can go very fast.

my advise, up shift gears @ 4.5~5k rpm.

 

more questions;

1) r u using the mod stainless steel header from cka?

if yes, u will experience power loss at low rpm.

reason is larger ID SS header pipe doesn't induce back pressure thus the lacking of power at low rpm.

solution: weld both ends of the SS header with 3/4" hole stainless steel washers.

 

2) check the acceleration cable, it might not be properly adjusted.

 

3) tune ur carb, as of my recommendation.

 

4) play around with sprocket ratio, current might not suit ur riding.

eg: rear sprocket number of teeth divided by front sprocket number of teeth = sprocket ratio (SR).

stock = 42t/14t = 3.0 (is the same as 45t/15t = 3.0)

u can play around n change the sprockets with other number of teeth.

 

for example;

ur current might be sr = 42t/15t = 2.8

my current is sr = 44t/15t = 2.9

u can try sr = 45t/14t = 3.2 for better pickup.

the down side is top speed will reduce.

eg. sr 2.9 redline @ 120kph, sr 3.0 redline @ 110kph, sr 3.2 redline @ 100kph (redline = 10,000 rpm).

in theory, sr 2.8 redline @ 130kph.

in real life, small 10 hp engine do not have the power to drive up to redline (max out at 9,500 rpm).

with gravity assist, can manage 130kph @ redline.

i did it at nsh when i had sr 2.8, down-slope @ 130kph n up-slope @ 90kph.

 

sprocket ratio, carb tuned optimized engine power, it will be a great ride.

tats is my current, know ur machine n tweak it to suit u.

Edited by stsoh
Posted
wats up?

 

im using this bike as hobby.....no m to change new bike.

 

Hobby bike... Ok wat~ traded mine for an S3. Better for long daily commutes to work la.. Think Roy changed the fuel cover of my old roadwin from red to purple... Obiang man

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Recite ! In the name of thy Lord and Cherisher, Who created-

Created man, out of a (mere) clot of congealed blood:

Recite ! And thy Lord is Most Bountiful,-

He Who taught (the use of) the pen,-

Taught man that which he knew not.

Posted

twist n go, lots of fun ride but no scooters for me.

bad exp, scoot tire (few month old) burst for no apparent reasons, end up in hospital.

take care....ride safe.

Posted

Hey guys, there's a prob that I have been experiencing with my rw only when it's raining; be it while riding, or just start bike.

 

While riding in rainy weather for about 10 minutes, the engine will start to die off and not able to start again. Even if it does, it will go for about 100m and die off again.

 

When I come to a stop at traffic light junction, engine will die off once I start to throttle. And the same will happen like what I mentioned. Die off, start again, die off, and it continues.

 

Then, when my bike has been parked in the rain for few hours, I can't start the bike either. Only after many tries then it starts. So, thought of letting it idling for awhile to warm up, it dies off after about 10secs of idling.

 

Tried using the choke to assist in starting as well, but not much of a use.

 

It isn't so bad now cos I went to CKA Hq to get it checked and changed some casing that's at the engine (no idea what that was).

 

But the problem is still there. Anyone experiencing the same or has experienced such before??

 

Thanks!

Posted

occurs when raining (wet)?

suspect its the spark gun (cap) is leaking electric.

spark gun (cap) is the black plastic thing tat goes on top of the spark plug.

replace it.

Posted

Ya.. Only occurs when it's wet. Other than that it's working normally..

 

I did change the black plastic thing last week at cka hq.. Cost me 30 bucks.. :(

 

But still happening when wet but not that often. Sucks to have to be in between vehicles at the front of the traffic light junction and bike dies off when it's time to move..

 

Any advice on what I can do next?

Posted

Hmmmm... Why dont do trial test at mscp.. Try splash water near that area and try to ride.off and see if problem persist.. Sorry not much help.. Anyway the bike imriding now is very squeeky.. Dunno where the sound comes from..

 

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Posted (edited)
Ya.. Only occurs when it's wet. Other than that it's working normally..

 

I did change the black plastic thing last week at cka hq.. Cost me 30 bucks.. :(

 

But still happening when wet but not that often. Sucks to have to be in between vehicles at the front of the traffic light junction and bike dies off when it's time to move..

 

Any advice on what I can do next?

 

normally its the spark gun fault, maybe there r other units (ign cable, ign coil) tat is old n failing.

go back to cka hq n consult roy, he is the best whom can help u.

Edited by stsoh
Posted
Hmmmm... Why dont do trial test at mscp.. Try splash water near that area and try to ride.off and see if problem persist.. Sorry not much help.. Anyway the bike imriding now is very squeeky.. Dunno where the sound comes from..

 

Sent from my Dell Streak using Tapatalk

 

if it is squeeky...ur bike is telling u to do maintenance.

if u dun know wat to do....just go to cka n let them do it for u.

Posted

my old scooter had that problem as well. can't remember if its an electrical or carb problem.

 

get roy to help.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Recite ! In the name of thy Lord and Cherisher, Who created-

Created man, out of a (mere) clot of congealed blood:

Recite ! And thy Lord is Most Bountiful,-

He Who taught (the use of) the pen,-

Taught man that which he knew not.

Posted

Thanks for the input guys.. Will head down to HQ once I am free since I haven't been riding in the rain lately..

 

Anyway, bike is due for EO change.. Any recommendations(brand, grade, price) if possible?

  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

i'm still around, not much into socialising but having a good ride.

dun worry too much, cka hq will take good care of u.

most newbies dun really like rw coz it is slow, vib n consume much more fuel than other cl2b bikes.

if u understand the machine tat u r riding, u will appreciate it.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
Took me like 8 days of off and on reading to finish all 175 pages. Need a break. Anyone still here?

 

impressive, i don't have the resolve to read from beginning.

Hello!

hmmm a lot on R125, anyone using the R150 naked?

2011 Skoda Octavia(RHD)

2012 Class FL + Komatsu/Nissan 3Tonne FL

2013 Class 2b + Adiva ADtre2, Toyota Sienna(RHD)

Posted

basically both r the same.

engine cylinder is over bored n fitted with a 2mm larger piston to 140.2cc.

engine is not 149.9cc but commercially advertised as 150.

with extra

Posted (edited)

here in this forum there r tons of book-smarties but none r wise.

many think or fantasy tat 150 will zoom faster but on the contrarily.

both 125 n 150 r the same in every specs except the engine cc.

it does not means 150 will have higher top speed but slightly more engine volume cc.

both have the same top speed, reason is simple becoz they have the same piston stroke, same rpm,

same gears ratios, same sprockets ratio n same rear wheel circumference.

thus top speed remains the same, difference is 15cc vol of more air/fuel (a/f) mixture.

can the extra 15cc a/f mixture produce 1 horsepower? i doubt so.

do u have any feel wat 15cc vol is like? its not even a spoonful.

our farts have more than 15cc of lethal explosives power.

with proper carb tuning on a 125, it can out run a stock 150 (140.2 cc)

in terms of reaching top speed faster by a couple of seconds.

many good knowledgeable with experience riders in sbf have left this forum after been harassed by book-smarties.

partly the reason i deleted some of my earlier posts.

this is an old rare roadwin first gen (daelim have long creased production).

very few, i can say maybe there r more or less 5 bikes on sg road.

visit cka-hq, many old rw have been laid/crashed/scrapped.

why not take a look at the third gen roadwinR (sportbike section)?

much better construct by which i meant EFI (better FC), watercool engine with balancing shaft (less vibration).

Edited by stsoh
Posted (edited)

on the last note:

Rw125cc with compression of 10.4:1.

Rw150 is 140.2cc compression will be lesser than 10.4:1.

same length stroke n more volume (space), thus lower compression.

higher compression means more power as compare to low compression (no book-smarties know about this).

to compensate for the loss of compression, most performance shop will machine 0.5mm off the surface cylinder head n use thinner gasket (taking a risk tat inlet/outlet valves on minimum tolerance with piston clearances).

 

another grave mistake by book-smarties is saving fuel.

they dun understand saving fuel (burnt less fuel) means engine will produce lesser power, under power.

bike will overheat when run lean, overheat will breakdown engine oil n cause more damage, wear n failure.

i cant believe wat i have read in this forum, book-smarties riders will want to save fuel to the extreme.

Edited by stsoh

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