[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[ghost92]

hello brothers, i just bought a daelim roadwin 125cc from another forumer today(my 1st bike ), would like to know where should i go to change the headlight fairing/cover(broken), and passenger seat(torn), and how much would it cost, thanks for the help!

 

and now that i have the bike transferred to me, insurance, road tax, wad else do i need to be ok, season parking and etc, and how do i go abt doing it?

Edited November 3, 2012 by ghost92

[revhappy]

on the last note:

Rw125cc with compression of 10.4:1.

Rw150 is 140.2cc compression will be lesser than 10.4:1.

same length stroke n more volume (space), thus lower compression.

higher compression means more power as compare to low compression (no book-smarties know about this).

to compensate for the loss of compression, most performance shop will machine 0.5mm off the surface cylinder head n use thinner gasket (taking a risk tat inlet/outlet valves on minimum tolerance with piston clearances).

 

another grave mistake by book-smarties is saving fuel.

they dun understand saving fuel (burnt less fuel) means engine will produce lesser power, under power.

bike will overheat when run lean, overheat will breakdown engine oil n cause more damage, wear n failure.

i cant believe wat i have read in this forum, book-smarties riders will want to save fuel to the extreme.

 

Thanks for the info. To me, I always look at the HP and the Torque figure which is a directly proportional to the CC and the Compression figure. For example CBF150 and CBR150 although both are 150 CC the CBR is a much more powerful bike reason being CBR150 is 11:1 where CBF150 is 9.1:1 hence CBR150 produces max power of 17 HP whereas CBF150 is a pathetic 13.5HP.

 

But I disagree a bit about your comment that 15CC doesnt make much difference. If compression ratio is constant then 15CC does make a difference. For example Pulsar 180 vs Pulsar 200, both have same compression ratio about 9.5:1 but P180 produces 16.5HP and P200 produces 18HP. You can feel the difference in the ride also P200 is 5kgs heavier yet much better torque figures and so it has awesome pulling power

[stsoh]

well, if both r of the same design of air/cool 4-strokes engine.

p200 have larger area than p180 n same stroke length, they cant have the same compressions.

[stsoh]

hello brothers, i just bought a daelim roadwin 125cc from another forumer today(my 1st bike ), would like to know where should i go to change the headlight fairing/cover(broken), and passenger seat(torn), and how much would it cost, thanks for the help!

 

and now that i have the bike transferred to me, insurance, road tax, wad else do i need to be ok, season parking and etc, and how do i go abt doing it?

 

welcome.

u got a rare bike on sg road.

'headlight fairing/cover' ? r u referring to windshield or your headlight is mod using rxz headlight?

if it is a windshield, u can either remove or replace it. it just an accessory.

original headlight is just a plain round 7" headlight without the windshield.

there r many types of universal windshield tat u can choose, price range from S$100~200.

cheap n not concern about quality, u can go down to LAB (Lim Ah Boy) at kelantan lane n have a look what they have on stock (address link: http://www.streetdirectory.com/asia_travel/travel/travel_id_4669/travel_site_17145/5/ ).

 

as for seat cover, u can shop around jalan besar rd. there r a few seat cover repair shops.

price range depends on the material use, avg should be less than S$20.

 

just enjoy your ride.

insurance u can ask cka or shop around for the cheapest quote.

if dun receive road tax before due date, u can go down to tp(lta) n ask for it.

when road tax is due, u need insurance coverage n bike inspection certified before u can renew road tax.

as for parking, go down to your hdb office.

Edited November 4, 2012 by stsoh

[ghost92]

yeah the head looks like an rxz head, now that i think about it,i honestly dont really like it,but the previous owner said if i take it out, it will look ugly as the wires all can be seen all over.but yeah i would like to replace the head, was wondering how much and where should i do it, and btw, i would like to buy side boxes to put my books and etc, where should i get them (are they waterproof?), and is there any 24 hours bike shop that can do all the above, as i'm still studying, don't really have much time to go around

[ghost92]

sorry i'm very noob at this, uh it's just day 2 of me owning a bike

[stsoh]

yeah the head looks like an rxz head, now that i think about it,i honestly dont really like it,but the previous owner said if i take it out, it will look ugly as the wires all can be seen all over.but yeah i would like to replace the head, was wondering how much and where should i do it, and btw, i would like to buy side boxes to put my books and etc, where should i get them (are they waterproof?), and is there any 24 hours bike shop that can do all the above, as i'm still studying, don't really have much time to go around

 

ask the previous owner to give u back the oem (Original Equipment Manufacture) headlight back to u.

if not, go down to any of cka-hq/branches ( http://www.cka.com.sg ).

u can buy a new one, at the same time, they can fix n rewire it up for u.

on saturday, u can shop around jalan besar or any of bike/accessories shops in around sillypore.

[stsoh]

ghost92,

out of curiosity, why did u buy daelim roadwin (1st gen)?

there r third generation roadwinR (efi), different n better engine design.

 

i find tat most newbies will avoid it becoz of:

1) korean-made (low resale value),

2) not fuel efficient (avg 27~28 km/l, other 2b cl bikes r above 30 km/l),

3) too slow n poor acceleration (pickup),

4) low top speed (max 110kph),

5) big n heavy, difficult to handle,

6) expensive to maintain eg. big tires n high fc (fuel consumption),

7) excessive engine vibrations,

8) poor reliability on parts, etc, etc.

 

as for me, i luv this bike on first sight n im able to fine tune it to my riding style (which might not be favoured by others).

Edited November 5, 2012 by stsoh

[ghost92]

stsoh, only CKA would carry the daelim OEM headlight? i went there just now(khakit bukit), the guy quoted me $200++,he also told me that getting a box for the bike is hard as not many shops have brackets for it, is it tru?, he quoted me anrd $300 for the box+bracket . is it worth it?

 

 

well i didn't know about the 3rd gen design and all, i was looking at big 2nd hand 2b bikes(i'm 1.84m+100kg, so am quite big)

and basically i came down to 4 bikes, phantom TA200, daelim daystar, daelim roadwin, or the hyousung comet. i know the phantom is likely the best among st the choice, but i felt that i was very low to the ground when i sat on it, and turning U-turn is abit hard for me. and so the phantom and daystar were out, and i didn't like the comet as it's a 2 stroke bike, alot of maintenece to do from what i heard. and conveniently there was someone selling the roadwinont the used bikes section in the garage sale on this forum. so i was drawn closer,

personally i don't find it difficult to handle, maybe cause i'm big, fuel wise soo far its ok, and i don't mind the 'not so high' top speed, i feel so much comfortable at 80-90km per hour instead, but i agree that the pick up is bad, wish i could do something abt it, and i thought maintenece for 4 stroke bikes were cheap?! and yeah i wish more shops had spare parts for ths bike .......

[stsoh]

basically all agents charge higher price (about 20% higher) regardless of oem parts.

u can ask any bike shops for quotes of items u need.

roadwin oem headlight is made-of-plastic, imo it cant use 55w/55w bulbs (oem bulb is 35w/35w).

if u use 55w/55w bulb, the heat generated will melt the plastic.

u can try LAB, they offer the cheapest price in sillypore market but workmanship n quality r the poorest.

honda s4 headlight is too big for roadwin but there r others tat will fit n made of metal which will rust eventually but can withstand the heat using 55w/55w bulb.

i believe u dont have to change all at one shot, do them one at a time at an easy pace.

shop around u might get a better deal, at times, oem parts r not necessary the best.

 

comet is v-twin engine, harder to maintain n rarer than rw.

 

btw, u can call cka-hq n ask roy for second hand parts.

just tell him u dont have much money n still a student, he can help u out.

good luck.

Edited November 6, 2012 by stsoh

[stsoh]

to increase acceleration (pickup) of a bike, u can try different sprocket ratio.

eg:

rw stock is using 14 teeth front sprocket n 42 teeth rear sprocket = 3.0 ratio.

rear sprocket divided by front sprocket, 42/14=3.0 ratio (same as 45/15=3.0).

at 10,000 rpm = 110kph top speed (engine vibrate excessively).

but give sufficiently good acceleration (pickup).

 

slightly drop in acceleration but higher top speed (120kph) with 42t/15t=2.8 ratio.

im using 44t/15t=2.9 ratio which i find a balance in between for my riding preference (i weight 75kg, top speed 115kph).

 

if u dont mind top speed but want better acceleration (pickup), u can try 45t/14t=3.2.

top speed will drop to 105kph@10,000rpm, lesser stress on the engine n it will go wild in vibration. lol

[Pulser]

stsoh, only CKA would carry the daelim OEM headlight? i went there just now(khakit bukit), the guy quoted me $200++,he also told me that getting a box for the bike is hard as not many shops have brackets for it, is it tru?, he quoted me anrd $300 for the box+bracket . is it worth it?

 

 

well i didn't know about the 3rd gen design and all, i was looking at big 2nd hand 2b bikes(i'm 1.84m+100kg, so am quite big)

and basically i came down to 4 bikes, phantom TA200, daelim daystar, daelim roadwin, or the hyousung comet. i know the phantom is likely the best among st the choice, but i felt that i was very low to the ground when i sat on it, and turning U-turn is abit hard for me. and so the phantom and daystar were out, and i didn't like the comet as it's a 2 stroke bike, alot of maintenece to do from what i heard. and conveniently there was someone selling the roadwinont the used bikes section in the garage sale on this forum. so i was drawn closer,

personally i don't find it difficult to handle, maybe cause i'm big, fuel wise soo far its ok, and i don't mind the 'not so high' top speed, i feel so much comfortable at 80-90km per hour instead, but i agree that the pick up is bad, wish i could do something abt it, and i thought maintenece for 4 stroke bikes were cheap?! and yeah i wish more shops had spare parts for ths bike .......

 

you should have chosen Bajaj Pulsar, CBF 150 or YBR 125 all three are more practical than the Korean bikes you chose. Dont get me wrong they are great bikes, but only in Korea. In Korea, they have equivalent of class 2b which allows max 125CC so they have no choice need to make big bikes also 125CC only.

 

In Singapore when 2B allows 200CC, why settle for heavy 125CC? I see Daelim Daystar riders always ride on the leftmost lane of the expressways, no power, too heavy, haha

Edited November 6, 2012 by Pulser

[stsoh]

there r many new models nowadays, 8 yrs ago roadwin is the best biggest 2b bike.

 

check out this 2013 cb150 streetfire ;

 

http://www.cyclecanadaweb.com/articles/18058/

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]261734[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]261735[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]261736[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]261737[/ATTACH]

[rocket_serve]

Hi, i just wanna ask what are the differences btw the 125 and 150 cc rw?

In terms of top speed, FC and etc cause im stuck btw getting the 125 which is cheaper due to coe and stuff or the 150.

[stsoh]

both r the same in every spec except engine volume (cc),

125 = 124.9cc n 150 = 140.2cc (its not 149cc as in 150).

top speed is the same for both 125 n 150.

fc will be more for 150 coz 15cc extra air/fuel mix,

ie., at 8,000rpm = (8000/2)*15cc = 60 litre per min a/f mix (99.9% air n 0.1% fuel intake per stroke).

power-wise 150 is quicker by one second if the carb is properly tuned becoz of extra volume tat compromised with compression ratio (higher engine compression ratio provide more power).

 

extended coe depends on the prevalent of average last 3 months base on of current bid for new coe.

ie if ur bike coe end on august n u want to extend coe base on the last three months eg.,

may = $1800

jun = $1950

jul = $2100

take above bid of coe n divide by 3, this is wat u have to pay for ur extended coe.

may+jun+jul = ($1800+$1950+$2100)/3 = S$1950.

regardless of 125, 150 or any cc motorcycle, pay the same rate for all motorcycle extended coe.

Edited November 8, 2012 by stsoh

[winson3896]

Hi, i just want to ask is that any rw kaki here ever change the wiring set? i meant fr head to tail.

When check w cka bb, their dun have ready stock, but can order one for me and the lead time is ard 1-2

weeks, and the cost is abt 3XX!!

Fyi, now my bike having intermittent startup prob, sometime during turning w suddenly lost electricity,

and this only happen at certain handle bar position. I suspect the bundle of wires that come out fr

keyswitch/head light and go below chasis is now wear out and cause contact prob.

Pls help thanks.

[stsoh]

maybe ur wiring is too tightly coil inside the headlight case or loose connections or key switch.

when turn the handle left2right n check wiring should have some slack so tat its not pulling.

if u r unsure let cka check, just tell them your problem.

i dun see why u must change the entire wiring system, engine is able to start n running, signal is working, tail/brake light is working, headlight/flashing is working, horn is working.

just 2 screw u can remove the highlight cover.

[winson3896]

I manage to remove headlight and secure all connector then try to turn handle, so far no more cut off prob. Thanks.

[duriandan]

Hi, i just want to ask is that any rw kaki here ever change the wiring set? i meant fr head to tail.

When check w cka bb, their dun have ready stock, but can order one for me and the lead time is ard 1-2

weeks, and the cost is abt 3XX!!

Fyi, now my bike having intermittent startup prob, sometime during turning w suddenly lost electricity,

and this only happen at certain handle bar position. I suspect the bundle of wires that come out fr

keyswitch/head light and go below chasis is now wear out and cause contact prob.

Pls help thanks.

 

Dude, just let CKA solve your problem for you. But not the BB one. The main Kaki Bukit one. If you love your Bone, you'll only let the Kaki Bukit mechanics touch your bike.

[duriandan]

Dude, just let CKA solve your problem for you. But not the BB one. The main Kaki Bukit one. If you love your Bone, you'll only let the Kaki Bukit mechanics touch your bike.

 

I meant your Roadwin. Used to ride one before I switched to Bone.

[winson3896]

Yuh, the dc supply cut off prob come back. The common earth cable is melted. No choice but send bike to cka bb, get new meter set(220)together w wiring(80).

During collection time, never chk properly, so it happen the horn no sound. But

other than horn, the rest of the switch and lighting work fine. So i assume is jus another incomplete job. i call them up and brief abt the prob and tmr w going back for chk.

Duriandan, next time i w try to go kaki bukit branch. Thanks.

[duriandan]

Yuh, the dc supply cut off prob come back. The common earth cable is melted. No choice but send bike to cka bb, get new meter set(220)together w wiring(80).

During collection time, never chk properly, so it happen the horn no sound. But

other than horn, the rest of the switch and lighting work fine. So i assume is jus another incomplete job. i call them up and brief abt the prob and tmr w going back for chk.

Duriandan, next time i w try to go kaki bukit branch. Thanks.

 

No problem. I rode a very old Roadwin, there are other things to look out for too.

 

One is leaking engine oil. If you see one or two drops below your bike in the morning, it's normal. But if it's dripping to the point where it'll stain your tyre when your bike goes over it in the morning, then your engine oil might be leaking. I had that problem, and the oil dried up in Orchard and I had to refill it with some cheap oil from Carrefour.

 

Another is the vibrations can get pretty substantial if you always rev a lot. So things around the engine area started to crack, eventually causing a problem. So if you see any small or hairline cracks, it could be the start of something bigger.

[rocket_serve]

I just got a RW from CKA HQ. man its freaking scary to ride! feels like the rear wheel was skidding everytime i change gear. the road was wet anyways, im gonna try riding again later when its drier. And i top up fuel, 5000 at mobil for 28 bucks man! Damn the tank is huge!

[duriandan]

I just got a RW from CKA HQ. man its freaking scary to ride! feels like the rear wheel was skidding everytime i change gear. the road was wet anyways, im gonna try riding again later when its drier. And i top up fuel, 5000 at mobil for 28 bucks man! Damn the tank is huge!

 

RW doesn't do that. It's either the rear is worn out (check the side threads as well) or drop gear during cornering (engine brake is quite strong, dry also can skid a bit one), or a combination of both.

 

Also try not to roll the tyres over the oil that sometimes drips out overnight when moving off from the parking spot.

[stsoh]

rocket_serve, pls do not endanger ur life.

change ur tire immediate if tats ur situation.

ur tire have worn out, bald or old (rubber have hardened).

it is good practice to change both front n rear together.

use the same brand of tire, eg. both front n rear tire of bridgestone, pirelli, dunlop, metzeler, etc., dun mix brands as manufacturers recommendation.

usually front tire will worn faster than rear coz we use front brake more than the rear, tat means mostly bikers will change two front then rear will be worn enough to be change.

different brands/types of tires come with different specs, eg., soft, medium or hard. speed rating, load rating, etc.

tat why their prices r different, big bikes tires r expensive coz of their high specs for high speed.

recommend u use bt039 or bt045 bridgestone tire, oem swallow tire is soft tire tat will wear out fast.

bridgestone normally come with dct (dual compound thread), tat means the middle compound is of harder rubber n the side is of soft compound. so tat is durable n cornering safe.

 

tire manufacturers recommends change tire when groove thread had worn out to 1mm height.

Edited November 14, 2012 by stsoh