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Posted

I cannot take scram because I am short. For me its the pillion that is heavy, in fact saw a KR with a rear rack that I quite like. the bros here recommend the fz16 the tiger fz150 I am considering to see if one is up for sale at a nice price. photoas.jpg

Posted
I cannot take scram because I am short. For me its the pillion that is heavy, in fact saw a KR with a rear rack that I quite like. the bros here recommend the fz16 the tiger fz150 I am considering to see if one is up for sale at a nice price. [ATTACH=CONFIG]287753[/ATTACH]

 

I've seen short girls riding scram, KR with pillion will still be unstable at low speeds, to me at least.

Posted

have seen a girl so short that she had to step on a kerb at junction just to keep the bike upright. In future would probably try one scram that is lower but as you know as a newbie, I am looking for something that is easier to handle and enjoy the security of being able to put my both feet on the ground. on a YBR learner bike can reach the ground almost totally so you can imagine I got short legs. Also I would like to mount a rear box too.

Posted

Yamaha fz16. Its wheel has wide low profile tyres to give you that confidence at corners and high speeds. Long-stroke engine to give you the grunt. in my opinion, best in its class!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ta 200 fishtails easy when it is wet.

But it has good torque.

 

Honda tiger 200 uses the same engine as the ta 200.

cbf 150, ybr 150, fz 150, is a good choice too as its profile makes it easy to handle.

 

160kg is where the problem is mate.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted (edited)

wow 160kg, is that with pillion or just u alone bro?

If u alone i advice u need a minimum 200cc for a 4stroke and if possible get a 200cc 2 stroke.

Maybe a Yamaha WR200. Quite powerful and if u can get a good condition one its a keeper seriously.

I've raced one side by side with a DRZ400 and lost cos it pulls up to 170kph. THe owner is one crazy fella who

spends alot on rebuilding the bike till its over tip top condition.

 

Maintenance is top grade 2t oil, nmaybe for your case a revalve of the suspension but no worries cos the forks

and shocks are adjustable. Just spend a little to do these things.

 

Disadvantage is that its 2 stroke so bit smoky n smelly but nothing beats its torque and acceleration on a class 2b bike.

I dare to say it is one of the most powerful and reliable 2b bikes around and parts is still no probs.

Some has rebuilt it till original condition. An old fren whose over 100kgs used to ride it for trails in plentong malaysia with us and he has no probs surviving crazy hill climbs n rutted dirt paths.

Scrambler mechanics have serviced these bikes since the early 90s so they sure know what to do with these bikes n still parts are commonly available. Cheers hope my info helps.

 

ps- did i tell u that it pulls long and beautiful wheelies at 2nd gear? Tried it before. So yes its fun to ride.

Riding dirt has been the best lesson as a biker for me cos roads are more simple to manoever as compared to trees, ruts, mud and rocks.

Edited by drift
  • 1 month later...
Posted

haha come on bros this has been discuss alot of time, 2stroke hard to maintain, expensive to repair..lol the reason y for u guys who find it hard to maintain a 2stroker bike is because u do not know how to take care for a bike let alone ride one..seems to me that this so called 2stroke hard to maintain la expensive la no resale value la once spoilt go mech he said aa u say aa, he sae bb u say bb, hence the outcome u kanna chop kanna con also duno...bodo peh kambingg meeeeekkkk meekkkkk

 

my two cents, not flaming anyone

Posted

Avoid 2 stroke is you can unless you are looking for trills..

MO reason to avoid 2 stroke - usually high fuel consumption

- smoke - it leave a 2T smell on your clothes

- Top up 2T frequent

- Usually low torque (no low end power)

- not environment friendly

- old, not much new model or no new model at all

But good reason as follow - explosive power rush when you hit it's power band

- easy and cheap to repair - (no cam, no inlet and outlet valve, just need to change piston ring at certain mileage)

- no need to warm up in the morning.

My ride,

RX 100, GTO 110, RXK 135, RD 125, RG 125, RG 250, TS 250, XR 250, DR 350, XT 600, DR 250, XR400, XR 250Baja, Hexagon 150, X9 250, AN125, Excel II 150, CRF250L, NC750X (current)

Posted

WR could be lookin at 12/litre like a 1.5 litre Jap car. Need fully syn 2T. But torque should be awesome. Cheap and good while await 2A? Lao K. For my self I Was thinking for myself KR150, add 1-2 teeth to rear. But also depends on ur age. fairing + 2stroke is exp insurance. Was adv due to this reason, KR now no value. Selling price is pro-rated COE value + a few hundred depending on condition. At 160kg, practically all 2B bikes will be strained... The Australian LAMs system is so much more relevant & future proof.

1997 TZR 125 - 1998 FZ 150 - 1999 GSXR 400K - 1999 RX 100 - 2000 LC 125 - 2001 TZR 125 - 2002 CB 400 Ver S - 2006 CBR 929 - 2006 GETZ 1.4 - 2009 STEED 400 - 2016 ???

 

Riders ride to work. Drivers work to drive.

Posted (edited)

The ideal bike for you will be a Bajaj Pulsar 200cc. It is a cockroach bike, pa si buey toh. My friend was 90kg when he rode that bike, and he pillioned people who are equally heavy before. Pulsar is a workhorse. You can't go wrong with it. It has good fuel economy also.

 

Not too sure about the KTM duke 200. It looks promising as well, but will be more expensive than the Pulsar and is basically a branded Pulsar, as the Duke is produced in cooperation with Bajaj.

 

What you really don't want to do is to get SP or KRR. Trust me. Those bikes are not built for heavy rider and pillion combined. The stress on the suspension and frame will cause more issues than a phantom fishtailing. Especially when you are talking abt combined weight of 160kg, not inclusive of carrying heavy load yet.

 

If you want sports bike, i would assume the newer 4-strokes like the R15 will possibly be a better choice than SP and KRR due to stress on engine. 2-strokes are high-performance and the engine abuse is considerably more than 4 strokes due to the way the engine works.

 

If you don't mind phantom, you can consider it, as it is also another very hardy bike, but be more careful when applying foot brake.

 

The main issue here is the weight you plan to load on the bike. As bro Raptor has already said, 160kg will kill any 2b bike's suspension, especially more so for sports bike, as those are not built for heavy abuse. You really would want a road bike instead for your needs. In any case, when you ride, please take care of the suspension, and maintain it as best as you can (front forks and rear spring/kantong)

Edited by Heathx

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted

That bad ah? Like that I should also abandon my idea of KR for my intended combined weight of 140-145kg. But I used to ride TZR125 with daily weight of 90-60kg. Seemed alright for 2 years. Could it be because it was Jap made? How bout 2T workhorse like RXZ? can take 140kg on a daily basis.?

1997 TZR 125 - 1998 FZ 150 - 1999 GSXR 400K - 1999 RX 100 - 2000 LC 125 - 2001 TZR 125 - 2002 CB 400 Ver S - 2006 CBR 929 - 2006 GETZ 1.4 - 2009 STEED 400 - 2016 ???

 

Riders ride to work. Drivers work to drive.

Posted
That bad ah? Like that I should also abandon my idea of KR for my intended combined weight of 140-145kg. But I used to ride TZR125 with daily weight of 90-60kg. Seemed alright for 2 years. Could it be because it was Jap made? How bout 2T workhorse like RXZ? can take 140kg on a daily basis.?

 

It's not impossible. But there are a few factors to consider.

 

A sports bike like KR or SP is made to be light. Thus, the frame is lighter than other 2b bikes, not meant to support too heavy a weight for long periods. There are instances of frames breaking under weight.

 

The engine is another consideration. KR and SP are high-rev bike, with the powerband around 5-6k rpm onwards, anything lesser, very little power. If you are carrying that much load on the bike, it is better to have a more linear power, which 4-strokes are 'better' at. Do take in mind that for certain 4-stroke sportsbike like CBR150R, the powerband kicks in at 8k rpm. The moving off is the most important when carrying heavy loads, thus highly recommended to get at least 200cc road bike for 160kg weight + some more from barang barang. In addition, if you need to stress the engine a lot while doing everyday riding, you will be looking at more frequent maintenance and replacement of parts.

 

A few people suggested bikes like Wave or RXZ. Nothing wrong with those bikes. But if i were the one buying the bike, another consideration for me will be tyre size, as the rubber is the only contact with the ground i have, and i will want stability when riding with heavy weight. I'm not sure RXZ tyre size is what, but Kups definitely smaller tyre size (80? 90? 100? idk, no exp with kup and what i read shows 80.) Well, take 80 vs 120 for the new bajaj pulsar 200, i think the pulsar (or in fact any newer 4-stroke bikes) will be more stable than a kup. Not to mention, kup is 125-135cc, vs 200cc road bikes. RXZ has potential to fare better, but once again, i have no experience with it, i reckon though that it may work ok though.

 

Another consideration is suspension and posture. On a sportsbike, posture is usually forward leaning. In braking, the weight of the rider and pillion is pushed forward to the front forks. You will need to consider the amount of punishment the suspension can take. Otherwise, you may face handling problems under hard-braking and it can lead to accidents. On a road bike, posture is more upright. The transfer of weight to the front forks is not as much as in sportsbike. This makes hard braking more manageable on a road bike.

 

No matter what bike you pick, it will definitely be able to move off, definitely can bring you from point A to point B. It's just how much stress the rider and pillion and the bike go through.

 

Big weight + big bike = less stress

Big weight + small bike = more stress

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted

Thanks for the tip bro. The frame breaking part is scary. Guess tha BJ NS200 could be a great contender for TS.

1997 TZR 125 - 1998 FZ 150 - 1999 GSXR 400K - 1999 RX 100 - 2000 LC 125 - 2001 TZR 125 - 2002 CB 400 Ver S - 2006 CBR 929 - 2006 GETZ 1.4 - 2009 STEED 400 - 2016 ???

 

Riders ride to work. Drivers work to drive.

  • 2 months later...

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