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Posted
Ahhh, gud question:lol: My experinced after swaping Penzoil with Sikolene the difference is, my bike getting smooth when speeding & riding at a slow phase. Normally, if you change your engine oil late you can feel that changing of gear will be a bit difficult (maybe the engine oil getting thicker). As for Sikolene, rarely felt that way althought i just swap to Sikolene recently. No harm trying it youself bro, then you yourself will feel the difference.:thumb: If you got to rely on people suggestion also sometimes not accurate, learn to explore.:)

 

OK. Good lesson learned.

 

That will be 1 thumbs up for Sikolene.

 

Sikolene = 1 thumbs up

Castrol Power 1 = 0 thumb

Esso Gold = 0 thumb

 

Anyone wanna add? :dot:

 

Note: These reviews are without warranties. All reviews are opinions offered by RXZ communities free of charge.

All information written in this forum by Supervivid is as is. No warranty provided.

 

I'm still human, and are prone to errors and mistakes. Please bear with me and correct my mistakes.

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Posted
True true...

I'll check at the main forum if there's anyone meeting up in SPG b4 heading across the 2nd link..

 

Thanks for bring up the question...

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

 

Can I suggest that we meet at somewhere accessible, good location and near to AYE?

 

Locations:

1: Labrador Park (Big car park where we can meet).

2: Kallang MacDonald's or KFC (can park and eat while waiting for others)

3: West Coast Park MacDonald's (can park and eat while waiting for others)

 

Just suggestions. :thumb: :thumb:

All information written in this forum by Supervivid is as is. No warranty provided.

 

I'm still human, and are prone to errors and mistakes. Please bear with me and correct my mistakes.

Posted
OK. Good lesson learned.

 

That will be 1 thumbs up for Sikolene.

 

Sikolene = 1 thumbs up

Castrol Power 1 = 0 thumb

Esso Gold = 0 thumb

 

Anyone wanna add? :dot:

 

Note: These reviews are without warranties. All reviews are opinions offered by RXZ communities free of charge.

Well, it's very hard to vote for this few mentioned engine oil. Everyone has their own trusted choice, maybe not included in here also. Best advice, proceed to your trusted brand:thumb:

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Nadia> FBB3608T - 14 March 2007 to 11 July 2008

Honda CB400 Spec 3 a.k.a Lisa> FBC7988P - 11 July 2008 to 24 June 2009

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Qistina> FBD6886B - 25 June 2009 to 29 April 2010

Suzuki Hayabusa a.k.a Rachel> 29 April 2010 to 23 April 2011

Suzuki GSXR 1000 a.k.a Suzy> FR**H - 23 April 2011(CURRENT RIDE)

Posted
Well, it's very hard to vote for this few mentioned engine oil. Everyone has their own trusted choice, maybe not included in here also. Best advice, proceed to your trusted brand:thumb:

 

I consider this as not a vote, but more of a preferred choice between riders. The best choice is always to try out by yourself. But this sure helps the newer riders to get their choices right, that's all.:p

 

Knowledge is free, so share it with freedom!

All information written in this forum by Supervivid is as is. No warranty provided.

 

I'm still human, and are prone to errors and mistakes. Please bear with me and correct my mistakes.

Posted

Hello :)

 

I also have a question about this "oil" and "changing gears" issue. My mechanic always uses some oil (i don't even know for sure what brand, but i think "Yamalube" as the shop sells that) SAE 40. Now my problem is that when the engine is hot or after i need to slow down rapidly, i can almost not change gears downward - i always have to let the clutch come a little bit to make the gear lever move at all, and it comes with a nasty "clack". There is no such problem when shifting UP. It's the 6-speed engine and i change oil about every 3.000 kilometers.

 

It is the same effect as if the clutch would not open fully, but it does. This clutch now has some 17.000 kilometers on it.

 

Do you think changing to a different oil would make a difference? Such as 15W-40 or 10W-50? Specific brand/type? In Germany we always used 15W-40 for any Japanese bike engine but there you don't find SAE 40 at all.

 

I appreciate any advice.... thanks in advance :)

 

Best regards...

 

Thanh

 

PS i'd love to join your outing with my Bulldozer... damn, i feel so.... "offshore".

Zundapp: ZR10, ZR20, ZX25, ZE40, CS25, CS50, C50 Sport, SpoCo 515, SpoCo 517, GTS 517, GTS 529, KS50 Supersport-TT, KS50 Watercooled, KS80, K80, KS175.

Hercules: G3, MF3, HR2, MK2, Supra 4 GP, K50 RL.

Kreidler: Florett RMC.

Puch: DS, M50 Racing, Cobra 50-6 GTL Export.

Honda: MB 5, MTX 80, CB 250.

Suzuki: RV 50, X5-200, RGV 250.

Yamaha: DT 50-M, VRR 150, RXZ 135 (x2, current)

Posted
I consider this as not a vote, but more of a preferred choice between riders. The best choice is always to try out by yourself. But this sure helps the newer riders to get their choices right, that's all.:p

 

Knowledge is free, so share it with freedom!

 

Hmmm, gud idea..:angel: Then in that case they should refer to the preferred choice and let them decide what brand is highly recommended:)

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Nadia> FBB3608T - 14 March 2007 to 11 July 2008

Honda CB400 Spec 3 a.k.a Lisa> FBC7988P - 11 July 2008 to 24 June 2009

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Qistina> FBD6886B - 25 June 2009 to 29 April 2010

Suzuki Hayabusa a.k.a Rachel> 29 April 2010 to 23 April 2011

Suzuki GSXR 1000 a.k.a Suzy> FR**H - 23 April 2011(CURRENT RIDE)

Posted
Anyone here have rxz yellow color petrol tank or where to buy and how much?

 

I'm not sure whether you can get a ready made Yellow tank, unless someone wants to sell theirs.

 

The other option is get a tank for about $100++ (brand new) and spray OR

get a second hand tank (at a cheaper price) and spray.

 

If brand new, you can go to LAB OR you might want me to refer you to my mechanic and get a quote. No strings attached.

 

Good luck!:thumb:

All information written in this forum by Supervivid is as is. No warranty provided.

 

I'm still human, and are prone to errors and mistakes. Please bear with me and correct my mistakes.

Posted
Anyone here have rxz yellow color petrol tank or where to buy and how much?

 

Go to yamaha authorized dealer at jalan besar plaza.

Got many color(Stock Z colors, red black yellow etc etc...) tanks available. $140.

:thumb:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m206/blade_trinity21/EditedRevo2.jpg
Posted

ok bros. got another question. is duro brand reliable? i just changed tyres to duro tubeless as its witin my budget.

 

and about engine oil, is it a must to change every 3000km? i already went 5000km without changing.

Posted

Any guys wana go for a petrol session at johor 2moro? Meeting abt 10 am.. Interested PM me..

http://64.19.142.12/www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/What-to-Do-with-Lighter-Parts-6.jpeghttp://64.19.142.12/www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/What-to-Do-with-Lighter-Parts-7.jpeg
Posted

Its kewl, that u guys are on a shirt aready..there were plans since 2004 from the msn forum "RXZ D CLub' , to have a dedicated RXZ shirty..glad that it has come to age now..congrats..

http://64.19.142.12/www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/What-to-Do-with-Lighter-Parts-6.jpeghttp://64.19.142.12/www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/What-to-Do-with-Lighter-Parts-7.jpeg
Posted
Hello :)

 

I also have a question about this "oil" and "changing gears" issue. My mechanic always uses some oil (i don't even know for sure what brand, but i think "Yamalube" as the shop sells that) SAE 40. Now my problem is that when the engine is hot or after i need to slow down rapidly, i can almost not change gears downward - i always have to let the clutch come a little bit to make the gear lever move at all, and it comes with a nasty "clack". There is no such problem when shifting UP. It's the 6-speed engine and i change oil about every 3.000 kilometers.

 

It is the same effect as if the clutch would not open fully, but it does. This clutch now has some 17.000 kilometers on it.

 

Do you think changing to a different oil would make a difference? Such as 15W-40 or 10W-50? Specific brand/type? In Germany we always used 15W-40 for any Japanese bike engine but there you don't find SAE 40 at all.

 

I appreciate any advice.... thanks in advance :)

 

Best regards...

 

Thanh

 

PS i'd love to join your outing with my Bulldozer... damn, i feel so.... "offshore".

 

Oh man!!! I'd love to hav a closer look @ ur Bulldozer!!! Hehe... Should I be crazy enough to ride all the way to Thai, I shall keep u in my mind. Hehe...

 

As for ur prob, I'm also facing the same prob and clueless abt it! :giddy: But as long as it can still move, I'm ok wif it!!! Haha...

http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l417/syamitomo/GroupPhotoMain1.jpg

Posted
ok bros. got another question. is duro brand reliable? i just changed tyres to duro tubeless as its witin my budget.

 

and about engine oil, is it a must to change every 3000km? i already went 5000km without changing.

 

Ermmm... I think Duro is a reliable brand. Since it comes stock wif my bike..... My bicycle I mean! Haha...:faint: Try using a tyre which has no name in the market like I do now, U'll be shivering all the way. And it's not cause of the rain.......

http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l417/syamitomo/GroupPhotoMain1.jpg

Posted
Its kewl, that u guys are on a shirt aready..there were plans since 2004 from the msn forum "RXZ D CLub' , to have a dedicated RXZ shirty..glad that it has come to age now..congrats..

 

Yeah!!! Ups for ZECKERS!!!!!:thumb:

http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l417/syamitomo/GroupPhotoMain1.jpg

Posted

Guys any plans tis weekend? So bored.......:dot:

http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l417/syamitomo/GroupPhotoMain1.jpg

Posted
Anyone here have rxz yellow color petrol tank or where to buy and how much?

 

i juz buy my catalyzer full set with tank which is local tat cost me 270 ringgit...

 

yamaha authorized dealer in s'pore sell full set original $700+++

 

at jb a tank coz 100 ringgit.... local...........

 

At s'pore a tank coz about $100 plus or below, if im not wrong...i 4get already... n it is local.....

StAndaRd iS tHe bEsT

Posted
Hello :)

 

I also have a question about this "oil" and "changing gears" issue. My mechanic always uses some oil (i don't even know for sure what brand, but i think "Yamalube" as the shop sells that) SAE 40. Now my problem is that when the engine is hot or after i need to slow down rapidly, i can almost not change gears downward - i always have to let the clutch come a little bit to make the gear lever move at all, and it comes with a nasty "clack". There is no such problem when shifting UP. It's the 6-speed engine and i change oil about every 3.000 kilometers.

 

It is the same effect as if the clutch would not open fully, but it does. This clutch now has some 17.000 kilometers on it.

 

Do you think changing to a different oil would make a difference? Such as 15W-40 or 10W-50? Specific brand/type? In Germany we always used 15W-40 for any Japanese bike engine but there you don't find SAE 40 at all.

 

I appreciate any advice.... thanks in advance :)

 

Best regards...

 

Thanh

 

PS i'd love to join your outing with my Bulldozer... damn, i feel so.... "offshore".

 

 

I'm not so sure about your clutch problem, maybe its time to change your clutch plate and housing or even the clutch cable. I did mine, because the clutch cable keep on breaking after 3 months. I changed my clutch plate, but when the mechanic inspected my clutch housing, he recommended me to change, because it is loose. Now it's been a month, so I'm watching at the 3 months cable break.

 

About engine oil, according to wikipedia.org:

 

15W-40 - The first part (15W) refers to the thinness of the oil at low temperature. While the second part (40) refers to the thickness of the oil at high temperature. For cold climate, there maybe even 5W-30. So the vehicle can work under low temperatures. For us asian's, which have a climate temperature of about 20 degrees to 45 degrees, a 15W-40 is just right for everyday use. 10W-50 is more for frequent long road traveller.

 

SAE40 refers to the second part of (15W-40). It is the viscosity (thickness) level of the oil at high temperature.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.:cool:

All information written in this forum by Supervivid is as is. No warranty provided.

 

I'm still human, and are prone to errors and mistakes. Please bear with me and correct my mistakes.

Posted
I'm not so sure about your clutch problem, maybe its time to change your clutch plate and housing or even the clutch cable. I did mine, because the clutch cable keep on breaking after 3 months. I changed my clutch plate, but when the mechanic inspected my clutch housing, he recommended me to change, because it is loose. Now it's been a month, so I'm watching at the 3 months cable break.

 

About engine oil, according to wikipedia.org:

 

15W-40 - The first part (15W) refers to the thinness of the oil at low temperature. While the second part (40) refers to the thickness of the oil at high temperature. For cold climate, there maybe even 5W-30. So the vehicle can work under low temperatures. For us asian's, which have a climate temperature of about 20 degrees to 45 degrees, a 15W-40 is just right for everyday use. 10W-50 is more for frequent long road traveller.

 

SAE40 refers to the second part of (15W-40). It is the viscosity (thickness) level of the oil at high temperature.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.:cool:

 

Bro, check with you. Got any idea where can i re cushion my seats??? I use to cut it thin in JB and now i felt my seating posture is to low compare last time. Please advice, thank you.:thumb:

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Nadia> FBB3608T - 14 March 2007 to 11 July 2008

Honda CB400 Spec 3 a.k.a Lisa> FBC7988P - 11 July 2008 to 24 June 2009

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Qistina> FBD6886B - 25 June 2009 to 29 April 2010

Suzuki Hayabusa a.k.a Rachel> 29 April 2010 to 23 April 2011

Suzuki GSXR 1000 a.k.a Suzy> FR**H - 23 April 2011(CURRENT RIDE)

Posted
Hello :)

 

I also have a question about this "oil" and "changing gears" issue. My mechanic always uses some oil (i don't even know for sure what brand, but i think "Yamalube" as the shop sells that) SAE 40. Now my problem is that when the engine is hot or after i need to slow down rapidly, i can almost not change gears downward - i always have to let the clutch come a little bit to make the gear lever move at all, and it comes with a nasty "clack". There is no such problem when shifting UP. It's the 6-speed engine and i change oil about every 3.000 kilometers.

 

It is the same effect as if the clutch would not open fully, but it does. This clutch now has some 17.000 kilometers on it.

 

Do you think changing to a different oil would make a difference? Such as 15W-40 or 10W-50? Specific brand/type? In Germany we always used 15W-40 for any Japanese bike engine but there you don't find SAE 40 at all.

 

I appreciate any advice.... thanks in advance :)

 

Best regards...

 

Thanh

 

PS i'd love to join your outing with my Bulldozer... damn, i feel so.... "offshore".

 

Bro, never received any e-mail regarding bout the delivery i send to you? Hoping you have received it in a gud working condition. Anything you just mail to me, iv'e also reply bout the Remp-it movie:thumb:

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Nadia> FBB3608T - 14 March 2007 to 11 July 2008

Honda CB400 Spec 3 a.k.a Lisa> FBC7988P - 11 July 2008 to 24 June 2009

Yamaha RXZ a.k.a Qistina> FBD6886B - 25 June 2009 to 29 April 2010

Suzuki Hayabusa a.k.a Rachel> 29 April 2010 to 23 April 2011

Suzuki GSXR 1000 a.k.a Suzy> FR**H - 23 April 2011(CURRENT RIDE)

Posted

Hello again :)

 

@A-AN 07: sorry for being late to reply, was rotating like hell at work.... i haven't confirmed delivery yet because, well, i haven't received it yet :) It might come today (third day after you sent) or maybe tomorrow or Monday (don't know if parcel post comes on Sundays??) Last two parcels always took three days, so i guess evening today it'll be here :)

 

About the movie "Remp-It" i don't mind if it's Malay only and no subtitles - i just really want to see it, i sure don't understand Malay but i also watch Thai movies without understanding too much - it's entertainment nevertheless :)

 

@supervivid: Thank you very much for the hints - i knew about viscosity etc (i'm certified mechanic, xixixi) but my clutch has been replaced completely (entire set - housing, plates, discs, don't know what that's all called in English, the entire clutch 100%) about 17.000 Kilometers ago. Back then the old one was slipping and did not open fully, almost impossible to shift gears either way then. How long do they last in the RXZ when you ride mostly city traffic? In my Zuendapp's i usually had the same clutch over 50.000 kilometers without problems..... i don't think Yamaha "finish" that much earlier?

 

Kind regards....

 

your Thanh

Zundapp: ZR10, ZR20, ZX25, ZE40, CS25, CS50, C50 Sport, SpoCo 515, SpoCo 517, GTS 517, GTS 529, KS50 Supersport-TT, KS50 Watercooled, KS80, K80, KS175.

Hercules: G3, MF3, HR2, MK2, Supra 4 GP, K50 RL.

Kreidler: Florett RMC.

Puch: DS, M50 Racing, Cobra 50-6 GTL Export.

Honda: MB 5, MTX 80, CB 250.

Suzuki: RV 50, X5-200, RGV 250.

Yamaha: DT 50-M, VRR 150, RXZ 135 (x2, current)

Posted
I'm not sure whether you can get a ready made Yellow tank, unless someone wants to sell theirs.

 

The other option is get a tank for about $100++ (brand new) and spray OR

get a second hand tank (at a cheaper price) and spray.

 

If brand new, you can go to LAB OR you might want me to refer you to my mechanic and get a quote. No strings attached.

 

Good luck!:thumb:

 

Where's ur mech shop located?

Posted
Hello again :)

 

@A-AN 07: sorry for being late to reply, was rotating like hell at work.... i haven't confirmed delivery yet because, well, i haven't received it yet :) It might come today (third day after you sent) or maybe tomorrow or Monday (don't know if parcel post comes on Sundays??) Last two parcels always took three days, so i guess evening today it'll be here :)

 

About the movie "Remp-It" i don't mind if it's Malay only and no subtitles - i just really want to see it, i sure don't understand Malay but i also watch Thai movies without understanding too much - it's entertainment nevertheless :)

 

@supervivid: Thank you very much for the hints - i knew about viscosity etc (i'm certified mechanic, xixixi) but my clutch has been replaced completely (entire set - housing, plates, discs, don't know what that's all called in English, the entire clutch 100%) about 17.000 Kilometers ago. Back then the old one was slipping and did not open fully, almost impossible to shift gears either way then. How long do they last in the RXZ when you ride mostly city traffic? In my Zuendapp's i usually had the same clutch over 50.000 kilometers without problems..... i don't think Yamaha "finish" that much earlier?

 

Kind regards....

 

your Thanh

 

y not u try further ur cluth a bit...lessen the free play at the cluth cable...

Posted

Originally Posted by jeaniuz

ok bros. got another question. is duro brand reliable? i just changed tyres to duro tubeless as its witin my budget.

 

Bro used that tyre b4...and for me not bad lah..but rain take care lah bro...

"..Nomatter How Fast You Go, I'll See You At The Next Traffic Light.."

Posted
Originally Posted by jeaniuz

ok bros. got another question. is duro brand reliable? i just changed tyres to duro tubeless as its witin my budget.

 

Bro used that tyre b4...and for me not bad lah..but rain take care lah bro...

ok la. for me rain i phobia already. so i always ride slowly. haha.

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