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Posted
why you worry so much? no matter how many bars drop at whatever rate, you're still gonna reach reserve at about the same mileage. bike manufacturers are always pessimistic when computing fuel levels because they don't want you to run out of petrol in the middle of nowhere. you'd rather have the bike show 6bars left after you've travelled 295km? don't care about the bars. you should be more interested in your fuel consumption cos it a useful tool for diagnostics and refuelling. too high a fuel consumption can mean your tyres are underinflated, spark plug not firing, engine oil too thick etc. too low a fuel consumption can mean your bike is running too lean etc. it can also aid you to plan your fuel stops while touring. cheers.

 

Thanks bro, i m just wondering if it is norm that it is dropping so fast.

 

Wat is the psi that is recommeded for both rear n front tyres??

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Posted
Thanks bro, i m just wondering if it is norm that it is dropping so fast.

 

Wat is the psi that is recommeded for both rear n front tyres??

250kPa front and 290kPa rear with or without pillion according to manual.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted
i use 250/290 for mine as i always pillion

 

anyone can tell me what is the use of 330 resistor to o2 sensor ?

 

 

O2 sensors are manufactured to control the fuel of the motorcycle for economy and pollution regulation reasons. If you remove the O2 sensor the power of the engine increases but if you don't use an eliminator device the FI light will turn on. 2) When you replace the standard exhaust of the bike, the O2 sensor will not work OK with the aftermarket exhaust.That's why most aftermarket exhausts do not have a hole to place the standard motorcycle O2 sensor.The reason for that is the different emmisions flow.If you keep the O2 sensor the bike behaves problematically,increases fuel consumption and loses power.So you need an O2 eliminator to remove the sensor.

hope this help

Posted
why you worry so much? no matter how many bars drop at whatever rate, you're still gonna reach reserve at about the same mileage. bike manufacturers are always pessimistic when computing fuel levels because they don't want you to run out of petrol in the middle of nowhere. you'd rather have the bike show 6bars left after you've travelled 295km? don't care about the bars. you should be more interested in your fuel consumption cos it a useful tool for diagnostics and refuelling. too high a fuel consumption can mean your tyres are underinflated, spark plug not firing, engine oil too thick etc. too low a fuel consumption can mean your bike is running too lean etc. it can also aid you to plan your fuel stops while touring. cheers.

 

my 1st tank petrol after i own the bike is very bad. 12km/l. but this is before i do the following

 

1. inflat the tyre front 260 (it was 230) and 280 for rear

2. change EO using full syn, Coolant (which is reserve reservior is empty) , Iridium plugs, Oil filter

 

hopefully the 2nd tank is better. ya. i also think fc is the best way to est your milleage then fuel gauage but if go on touring, i can only depend on fuel gauge as my vtec will be on.. so more fuel comsumig.

 

someone suggest me to go for valve clearance as he suspect the valve need to be service since the milleage is 37k over 5years.. =_= (ex owner were uncles and seldom ride so neglect in taking care of the bike, judging from the stuff he use on the bike semi syn EO, coolant reservior is EMPTY.. OMG). any suggestion guy to let this baby get back to it usual FC? i.e. 16-17km/l?

Posted
let say i am using stock exhaust does remove of o2 sensor help increase power ?

 

yes but fuel milleage will be less

also it does cure the flat spot around 4500 to 5000rpm range

Posted
O2 sensors are manufactured to control the fuel of the motorcycle for economy and pollution regulation reasons. If you remove the O2 sensor the power of the engine increases but if you don't use an eliminator device the FI light will turn on. 2) When you replace the standard exhaust of the bike, the O2 sensor will not work OK with the aftermarket exhaust.That's why most aftermarket exhausts do not have a hole to place the standard motorcycle O2 sensor.The reason for that is the different emmisions flow.If you keep the O2 sensor the bike behaves problematically,increases fuel consumption and loses power.So you need an O2 eliminator to remove the sensor.

hope this help

 

Only if it's full system...half system, the O2 still there. 5cents for 1pc 330ohm resistor can be brought at sim lim.

 

yes but fuel milleage will be less

also it does cure the flat spot around 4500 to 5000rpm range

 

It does cure the flat spot, but not perfect. No increase in fuel intake for my case.

Past rides are already history....

Current ride: FW VFR 800 ABS

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s254/james9295/DSC_0200.jpg

Posted

There is not flat spot on both my VFR800, my first was brand new from Mah back in 2006. It pulls evenly and strongly from tickover to redline, great engine. The same goes for my current, also a 06 gen06 but I got is used, same great engine that pulls evenly.

 

The 782cc isn't the big-bore torque monster of other sports tourer like the concours, STX, Hayabusa.. etc. You have got to keep the VFR in the right gear to pull away quickly.

Posted

Anybody here goes to track with their Gen 6? My temps are running at 112deg average throughout with fan on. Im thinking of either buying the VTR fan blade or decat. Which one do you guys suggest? Also anybody lowered their oil cooler before? The cooler is hidden behind the headlights with relatively low airflow.. Btw my bike runs cool on normal riding. Cheers guys.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted
The cooler is hidden behind the headlights with relatively low airflow.. Btw my bike runs cool on normal riding. Cheers guys.

 

 

DIY a ram air scoop hehe

Posted
DIY a ram air scoop hehe
i thought of doing that but i'm afraid that under hard braking, it might hit the front fender..
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted

What EO u using??? Prev was using Maxima and the big heats up too fast....change to Agip and it a lot better

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/WingZer0/Interceptor/TailLight-1.jpg
Posted

A good and simple modification to the cooling system for track use is to flush the coolant mixture (anti-freeze, anti-rust + water) and replace it with 100% distilled water only.

 

Anti-freeze contains lubricant and anti-corrosion agents that has a lower heat capacity than pure water. Replacing road use anti-freeze with pure distilled water is a simple thing you can do to improve cooling efficiency on the track.

 

Some tracks in Europe does not allow bikes with anti-freeze on their track because of safety issue due to the slippery nature of anti-freeze lubricant in case of splillage.

 

Anybody here goes to track with their Gen 6? My temps are running at 112deg average throughout with fan on. Im thinking of either buying the VTR fan blade or decat. Which one do you guys suggest? Also anybody lowered their oil cooler before? The cooler is hidden behind the headlights with relatively low airflow.. Btw my bike runs cool on normal riding. Cheers guys.
Posted
i thought of doing that but i'm afraid that under hard braking, it might hit the front fender..

 

Raise the fork 45mm above top york after servicing fork

diy scoop at oil cooler 35mm gap open

so far so good (finger cross) not hitting fender..... hehe

Posted
Raise the fork 45mm above top york after servicing fork

diy scoop at oil cooler 35mm gap open

so far so good (finger cross) not hitting fender..... hehe

 

I am amazed that you can actually raise it by 45mm without compromsing ground clearance. I would be very very careful riding with such an aggressive setting. You can easily lock your tyres when the fender hits. Also ground clearance is also severely reduced causing hard parts such aspegs and exhaust headers to ground and may lever you rear wheel off.

At 8mm lowered front and a lower preload rear shock is enough to grind my header pipes flat. scary.

Posted
What EO u using??? Prev was using Maxima and the big heats up too fast....change to Agip and it a lot better
Yeap using Maxima Extra now.. Will try Agip at the next oil change. Thanks bro..

 

A good and simple modification to the cooling system for track use is to flush the coolant mixture (anti-freeze, anti-rust + water) and replace it with 100% distilled water only.

 

Anti-freeze contains lubricant and anti-corrosion agents that has a lower heat capacity than pure water. Replacing road use anti-freeze with pure distilled water is a simple thing you can do to improve cooling efficiency on the track.

 

Some tracks in Europe does not allow bikes with anti-freeze on their track because of safety issue due to the slippery nature of anti-freeze lubricant in case of splillage.

i'm on maxima coolaide now which does not contain anti-freeze and is recommended for race use. It runs nice and cool during daily rides but can get quite hot at track. The bike feels the same just that my temp's reading 112 - 115 deg. For all i know, the engine is running cooler than the coolant which would then mean that the coolant works great by taking all the heat away from the engine...

 

Raise the fork 45mm above top york after servicing fork

diy scoop at oil cooler 35mm gap open

so far so good (finger cross) not hitting fender..... hehe

wouldnt wanna change the dynamics of the bike. To me it handles rather well for a pig. Lol.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted
I am amazed that you can actually raise it by 45mm without compromsing ground clearance. I would be very very careful riding with such an aggressive setting. You can easily lock your tyres when the fender hits. Also ground clearance is also severely reduced causing hard parts such aspegs and exhaust headers to ground and may lever you rear wheel off.

At 8mm lowered front and a lower preload rear shock is enough to grind my header pipes flat. scary.

 

yup was worry at first but someone did it first and hav good result

anyway like the set now thanks for the advice

Posted (edited)
Yeap using Maxima Extra now.. Will try Agip at the next oil change. Thanks bro..

 

i'm on maxima coolaide now which does not contain anti-freeze and is recommended for race use. It runs nice and cool during daily rides but can get quite hot at track. The bike feels the same just that my temp's reading 112 - 115 deg. For all i know, the engine is running cooler than the coolant which would then mean that the coolant works great by taking all the heat away from the engine...

 

wouldnt wanna change the dynamics of the bike. To me it handles rather well for a pig. Lol.

 

 

Bro u hitting 112 - 115???? My bike normally only hit 110 if serious jam....maybe can try check the coolant cap? See if the rubber worn off....

 

 

The VFR is no pig....go watch Freddie Spencer's vid on utube???

Edited by WingZer0
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/WingZer0/Interceptor/TailLight-1.jpg
Posted
Bro u hitting 112 - 115???? My bike normally only hit 110 if serious jam....maybe can try check the coolant cap? See if the rubber worn off....

 

 

The VFR is no pig....go watch Freddie Spencer's vid on utube???

At 248kilos wet, it is a pig! For the weight though, it handles beautifully.. Yea watched it many times.. If only Fast Freddy's video was longer..
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted
Bro u hitting 112 - 115???? My bike normally only hit 110 if serious jam....maybe can try check the coolant cap? See if the rubber worn off....

 

 

The VFR is no pig....go watch Freddie Spencer's vid on utube???

 

My temp normally don't exceed 105 degree even at jam..

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