SBF X8 Cafe

[larlee]

Originally posted by Brownkai@May 24 2005, 03:32 PM

icic.... hmm.... but y ur wife didi GGYY??

waste money?? must tell her the comfort and smoothness mah....

 

btw....like to check wif u...wat u mean by not to drag it at higher speed???

izzit if u run 90km/h try not to run at this speed for too long(during run in)???

only after the third svc u can try to hit top speend??

rpm also cannot whack hard??

auto bike got open valve?

then for all the three running in milege 1000km , 3000km , 5000km is there a limit speed whereby u r not to go too fast??? E.g the first 1000km ride at constant speed 50km-70km(max),3000km 50km to 80km(max) ???

 

 

any riders may also join in to help explain?

 

maybe collect all the useful information and make a list for newbies....

GGYY for wasting money.....hehehe

 

lets assume that you are riding a non-auto bike.

dragging = pushing the bike into high rpm in low gear.

Example: going into 7k rpm gives u 100km/h at 3rd gear rather than 4k rpm which gives u 100km/h at 5 gear.

 

since we are talking about auto bikes here, it means accelerating hard at low gears. I am not too sure how auto bikes CVT work but in cars if u want to overtake at 4th gear, u will floor your accelerator and the CVT gear box will drop to 3rd gear to respond to your need for power and pick up speed which also means your rpm will be higher at lower gear at the same speed.

 

running at 90km/h for most bikes is fine as it is still at a reasonable rpm range. example:

most bikes have a max rpm of 15k and the red zone is usually at 13k rpm.

if u are travelling at 90km/h and rpm is at 7k rpm then it is fine but if you are running at 130km/h and your rpm is at 12k then this means dragging, prolong riding at this speed is bad cause you are stressing your engine and also your fuel will drop like crazy.

 

as for my vespa, since my bike has a max 120km and running at 100km is at the red zone, therefore if i travel at 100 for long distance, the engine might jammed and died.

 

Real life example:

Using a super 4 400cc.

rpm max is 15k and red zone is 13k

riding at 90km/h, rpm at 6.5k, mileage estimate 300km per full tank

riding at 140km/h, rpm at 12k, mileage estimate 170km per full tank

I have tried it when i went on a trip from singapore to thailand and found out this result.

Friends on bigger bikes like 1000cc who travels at 140km/h and rpm is at 9k dont find their fuel drops as fast.

Reason:

bigger engines can take 140km/h as crusing whereas smaller bikes are stressing/dragging their engine so their fuel intake is very much higher for smaller engines.

 

after your final servicing of running in, you can travel high speed but that doesnt mean you should always try top speed whacking it hard but you can try to do it gradually instead.

 

all bikes and cars have valves, VTec have a different way of using their valves, travelling at high speed or high rpm, VTec valves will open up higher to provide much air/fuel intake for power and respond. This is also to save fuel for low speed travel when they shut the fuel intake valve during low rpm.

 

Bikes/cars usually have 4 valves per piston in 4 stroke engines

2 air and 2 fuel valves.

Only Yamaha has 5 valves per piston.

 

Theory,

more power = higher fuel consumption = fuel tank empty faster

less power = save fuel = fuel tank last longer = save $$

 

honda's vtec is trying to achieve both therefore opening valves when power is needed and closing it at low speed to help save money.

 

Classic bike that fits this theory will be Yamaha TZR 125 and the RD 125 with the power valve which is electronically controlling of the valve.

 

running in speed/rpm is dependant on engine capacity, smaller engines (125, 150cc) may have to limit to either 50 - 70km or 5k rpm whereas bigger engines (400,600) can travel up to 90 or 5k rpm during your 1000km.

 

after your servicing at 3000km then you can travel up to 90km or 7km rpm for smaller engines.

 

after your last servicing at 5000km you can travel all the way and try your top speed.

note, it will do your engine good if you can go to highway to travel high speed at 120km for long distance gradually to clear the carbon deposit in your exhaust pipes but i am not encouraging your whack hard on your beloved bike. you can do that over in malaysia highway. bigger engines like the 600 and above might have some difficulty doing it as they are able to travel really high speed which can be quite dangerous. After you have travel long distance at high speed, you will notice your bike will be quiet and smoother as the clogging carbon are flushed out of your exhaust pipes. Also, before you go for long distance travelling at high speed, it would be wise to buy a bottle of normal 4T/engine oil and pour some of it into your exhaust pipes so that your pipes wont be too hot until it burns all the mesh and burn a hole in your pipes. Dont pour too much as it will drip out and flood the carpark with engine oil. if you ever have a chance to see the contents in the pipes, it contains some wire mesh and riding it usually will heat up the mesh and will be rusty due to heat and also rain therefore travelling long distance with some oil lubicated it will prevent it from burning all the mesh. your pipe will be noiser once all the mesh is gone.

 

hope this helps.

[Solaris10]

Originally posted by larlee@May 24 2005, 12:01 PM

dont mix it with cars, engine oil for cars are really for the engine but engine oil for bikes is shared with engine and clutch. therefore it would be wise to change it at 5000km or 3mths which ever is earlier.

 

For X9 or X8 engine, it is very similar to car, 4-stroke, oil sump, dip and splash fly wheel. There is no wet clutch plate, like normal road bike. The gear box dont share the oil sump with the crank and flywheel, like cars as well, the transmission is separated with a thicker 30W-70 lubrication. Where as X8-X9 engine recommends 5W-40. I am using car lubricant now, Mobile One 5W-50. as compare to the castrol R4, it feels alot smoother now. Engine is very very quiet, i am very happy as well. When i use the Castrol R4, the timing chain and piston use to be very noisy. After changing to Mobil One, the engine is very quiet, been running for about one month now... no regrets...

[Mark C.]

Uncle Leong is using Car engine oil for his X9 too, never hear him complain, onli hear he say pi and chi.

[Jaspen]

I've used Mobile One 5W-50. Found that its smooth, but lcks power. Acceleration is bad.

[Solaris10]

Originally posted by Jaspen@May 24 2005, 08:12 PM

I've used Mobile One 5W-50. Found that its smooth, but lcks power. Acceleration is bad.

Smooth but lacks power ? if it is smooth, it runs better... you should experience better acceleration. Maybe it needs servicing.....

 

Although this mobile one is not cheap, but i find the Castrol R4 cannot withstand high temp, because of the 30 grade (whereas Piaggio recommeds 40). Previously when i experience traffic jam... the temperature goes up, the bike very noisy and slow response, believe the engine oil is thinning after temperature heats up.

 

Especially in tropical country in Singapore, my own opinion is the bike needs higher viscosity at high temp....

 

Most 4-stroke bikes, like Super 4 or even Wave, they have wet clutch plate inside the engine, so cannot afford to be too thick, if not clutch slip.

[Jaspen]

Originally posted by ydleong@May 25 2005, 12:39 PM

Smooth but lacks power ? if it is smooth, it runs better... you should experience better acceleration. Maybe it needs servicing.....

 

Although this mobile one is not cheap, but i find the Castrol R4 cannot withstand high temp, because of the 30 grade (whereas Piaggio recommeds 40). Previously when i experience traffic jam... the temperature goes up, the bike very noisy and slow response, believe the engine oil is thinning after temperature heats up.

 

Especially in tropical country in Singapore, my own opinion is the bike needs higher viscosity at high temp....

 

Most 4-stroke bikes, like Super 4 or even Wave, they have wet clutch plate inside the engine, so cannot afford to be too thick, if not clutch slip.

Yes, i agree with the R4 thinning at high temperatures. After trying the mobile one for 3 days, i changed back to R4. The acceleration and power comes back... ...

[edwinT]

now i'm thinking....

 

Based on the general rule of thumb of not using car engine oil for bikes due to the lubrication is shared between the engine+clutch etc etc etc

 

The auto scoot clutch is not located at the engine side. Its a totally separate entity.

 

So with this simplistic reasoning.... Car engine oil is ok for autoscoot?

 

hmmm.... some more things to think about...

[william_liu]

Yes, I believe car oils may be safely used for scooters with separate clutch housing.

 

The main reason why car oils may not be used in conventional bikes is because they usually contain friction additives that may cause the clutch to slip.

 

Another reason is that the car oils are not designed to withstand the "shearing" caused by the clutch plates, and it is said to cause oil to breakdown faster.

 

If I get a scooter I will definitely run Mobil 1 or some other car oils in it.

[edwinT]

heh... I'll know what to do my next oil change. Cheap and fresh and big big tits.

[Solaris10]

Originally posted by Jaspen@May 25 2005, 12:53 PM

Yes, i agree with the R4 thinning at high temperatures. After trying the mobile one for 3 days, i changed back to R4. The acceleration and power comes back... ...

For me i think i want to protect the piston, valves, timing chain. ie... engine.

[larlee]

it would be wise to use engine oil for bikes rather than for cars as it is not tested for it. otherwise why would they want to sell several types of oil in the market and not 1 oil for all vehicles (bikes, lorries, vans, bus, cars)

[leo_rider]

Originally posted by Jaspen@May 25 2005, 12:53 PM

Yes, i agree with the R4 thinning at high temperatures. After trying the mobile one for 3 days, i changed back to R4. The acceleration and power comes back... ...

me too...

using R4..

[Jaspen]

Originally posted by leo_rider@May 26 2005, 07:45 PM

me too...

using R4..

But i dont mind trying other brands of EO. Any reccomendations?

[leo_rider]

erm...

dunno leh...

since my NSR days, i used Repsol for half a yr, then change to R4 till now...

[larlee]

Hi,

 

Just a question.

 

Do you guys get to keep your main key when you purchased your bike under installments?

 

My concern is that X8 comes with 2 keys, 1 is the master and the other is spare. You will need to sync the spare key to the master key then only you will be able to use it.

 

If the shop keeps your master key, then that will leave you with no spare key if you lost/misplaced your spare key and will have to make all the way down to the shop and buy a spare key and have it sync with your master key.

 

What's the deal that you guys are having now? Get to keep the master or not?

[larlee]

Hi,

 

Just a question.

 

Do you guys get to keep your main key when you purchased your bike under installments?

 

My concern is that X8 comes with 2 keys, 1 is the master and the other is spare. You will need to sync the spare key to the master key then only you will be able to use it.

 

If the shop keeps your master key, then that will leave you with no spare key if you lost/misplaced your spare key and will have to make all the way down to the shop and buy a spare key and have it sync with your master key.

 

What's the deal that you guys are having now? Get to keep the master or not?

[larlee]

No one has a reply whether they get to keep the key?

[Elton]

dear X8 riders, i'm trying to gather all X9 and X8 rider's email.

Pls refer to the link below for more details.

X9, X8 Contact list

[larlee]

Hi,

 

How many of you X8 owners fix a switch for your headlamps?

Where did you guys got it done?

[leo_rider]

Originally posted by larlee@Jun 1 2005, 04:50 PM

Hi,

 

How many of you X8 owners fix a switch for your headlamps?

Where did you guys got it done?

my ex owner done it..

[sid]

I've been wanting to put in the headlight switch for weeks but still havnt got the chance yet. They say PSC used to do it but now they stop doin it. So im lost now. Anyone knows where n how much

[larlee]

I went to PSC to buy a switch and also ask which shop will help to do it. They recommended going to

 

Sunrise Eurobike

Kallang Avenue Industrial Centre

Blk 2 No. 152 Kallang Avenue

Singapore 339470

Tel 62995226

 

Look for Simon. He has stock for the switch and is able to do the job.

[busytiger]

Hi all....I went to a shop called Belwin Motors at Syed Alwi Road to install the light switch, total cost is $30, they also use the original Piaggio light switch for me.

[sigg4]

ok ok if my friend want to install light switch i ask him to go there lor... but after instlling the switch got any problems so far? because from my understanding have to lay wire to the pilot and head lights if done wrongly it will burn the fuse...

[busytiger]

Hi sigg4, so far no problem with fuse, but my light switch can only switch off the main headlight, cannot switch off the brake light, number plate light and dash board light. Do you guys encounter the same problem?