[Group] SUZUKI GSR 400/600

[flareon1982]

I have a GPS holder mounted on my bike as of now.

[cyrix76]

I have a GPS holder mounted on my bike as of now.

 

Bro ... where did you get yours? Where did you place it? Care to share with me where you get yours and how much? How did you do it? I also want to get it fixed also leh ... hope you can help.

 

Cheers,

Cyrix

[kaozie]

Good morning all. Review on the radiator guard. Great. It helps to disperse heat faster i realise. its been 1 or 2 degree lower than without the guard on. Gr8. And i feel like i riding a more BHP bike after some time. Wow. its worth it. Buy Buy Buy...

 

is it the 600 wording on it that gives you the extra BHP???

[flareon1982]

Ya lah. It makes me wanna fly and make the bike feel lighter and more responsive and not to mention that it can now accel faster and in shorter time too. Nice guard. Buy Buy Buy...

[flareon1982]

Bro ... where did you get yours? Where did you place it? Care to share with me where you get yours and how much? How did you do it? I also want to get it fixed also leh ... hope you can help.

 

Cheers,

Cyrix

 

I got it when i get my GPS. If u want to mount it for the purpose of handphone i think u will have to DIY some sort of holding device to hold the phone. If not the GPS holder will only hold the GPS as it is by cache concept

 

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1004

 

This is the mount i using.

[flareon1982]

Got some cool photo to show us on your radiator guard? I am koo koo about what radiator guard looks like ?

 

Cheers to your new found add on!

 

For me... this weekend ... I just added a new sticker on my baby GSR ... hehee ... more to come ... I love pasting sticker everywhere on my baby GSR! There are so many spots that I can stick my stickers on. Hope the heat will not melt my stickers ..

 

Cyrix

ps: Bro Flareon ... where did you get the sexy cool animated race queen from? I also want to put photos in my signature too leh.

 

My guard is this......

 

http://www.gsr600.co.uk/images/GSR_RAD_COVER_IMG_0545.JPG

 

Shhhhh....... Those who knows the secret....

[Dark Lord]

My guard is this......

 

http://www.gsr600.co.uk/images/GSR_RAD_COVER_IMG_0545.JPG

 

Shhhhh....... Those who knows the secret....

 

Ooooh nice!!!!

[flareon1982]

Hi guys. May i ask what Oil u guys using. and what grade issit? 10W-40W is stated in the manual but it seems to me that many of us has been using rating more than that. Any review on that? Will it hurt the engine as the oil is thinner than the recommended level. Discussion for the next few pages maybe.?

[Guest motofreak]

Fuiyoh. Y never ask Kaozie on this. He mechanical expert and perfectionist in everything. Not happy with a little scratch. "BUY NEW BIKE!" . Anything bout oil and "lubrication" he is the MAN....

[cyrix76]

Good morning everyone!

 

Flareon ... your radiator guard looks solid! But performances ... I dunno how true it can be based on your reviews ... (So many skeptical reviews in this thread... dunno to believe or not ... Best is to get one and review myself )

 

How much did you get for your radiator guard?

 

As for the Engine oil, I am still using Mineral oil for the sake of running in purpose. After I hit 2,400km then I will switch to Semi-Synthetic... I also never keep track how many W type they pour in. I just asked recommendation from the bike shop and they just take and change the oil for me.

 

Alrighty ... you'all have a great day ahead! Cheers!!!

 

Cyrix

[flareon1982]

I am currently using a 10W-60W Elf Champione EO. Its seems that my gear have trouble switching from gear 1 to 2 once in a while. It gives the very hard changing sound. when u change gear but its not common.

[flareon1982]

Good morning everyone!

 

Flareon ... your radiator guard looks solid! But performances ... I dunno how true it can be based on your reviews ... (So many skeptical reviews in this thread... dunno to believe or not ... Best is to get one and review myself )

 

How much did you get for your radiator guard?

 

As for the Engine oil, I am still using Mineral oil for the sake of running in purpose. After I hit 2,400km then I will switch to Semi-Synthetic... I also never keep track how many W type they pour in. I just asked recommendation from the bike shop and they just take and change the oil for me.

 

Alrighty ... you'all have a great day ahead! Cheers!!!

 

Cyrix

 

The radiator guard really will make ur bike fly. U must see it to believe it. Its a instant upgrade i must say. On the spot when u fit it on. SEE IT TO BELIEVE IT is all i must and can say.... Hahaha

[IvikaRazI]

I am currently using a 10W-60W Elf Champione EO. Its seems that my gear have trouble switching from gear 1 to 2 once in a while. It gives the very hard changing sound. when u change gear but its not common.

 

This one very simple...kick harder lor. Solve your problem. And do remember to lubricate your foot gear level time and time again. Can use WD40 on the joints....this will/can help in the changing of gear smoothly.

 

 

Hi guys. May i ask what Oil u guys using. and what grade issit? 10W-40W is stated in the manual but it seems to me that many of us has been using rating more than that. Any review on that? Will it hurt the engine as the oil is thinner than the recommended level. Discussion for the next few pages maybe.?

 

Haiz...everytime I see people ask about Engine Oil, I get a bit sian leh. Let me try to explain as best that I can from the information gathered from the Internet.

 

 

"Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating." Taken from http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

 

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Highs & Lows

Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil.

 

Multigrades

Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. In other words, multigrade oils are formulated to pass viscosity tests across a range of weights. For example, 10W30 meets the requirements for 10-weight at cold temperatures and 30-weight at high temps.

The multigrade oils' viscosity modifiers are long-chain molecules that lessen the change of viscosity with temperature variance. In the past, the polymer additives (used to thicken the oil) were sometimes susceptible to viscosity loss. Permanent viscosity loss occurred when high shear forces (such as the relationship between the main bearings and the crankshaft) actually break the polymer molecules into less-effective smaller pieces. On a similar note, temporary viscosity loss also occurred when the polymer molecules aligned themselves in order to create a path of least resistance.

Fortunately, today's additive packages have improved oil's shear-resistance. However, oils with the same rating from different manufacturers can exhibit different viscosity ratings in an operating engine, depending on the shear stability of their viscosity-modifying additives.

 

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Taken from http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=ccr20040601ov

 

 

 

To make it simpler, A 5W40 (as an example), would perform at a viscosity of 40 in our climate....no matter what the number in front of the W says, in this case its a 5, which means at winter condition, the Engine oil can operate at a viscosity of 5. Thus, the 'W' stands for Multigrade (means can work in cold and hot weather). That is why I say to ignore the number infront the of the 'W', we can't use it in the 4 seasons of Singapore (Hot, Very Hot, Humid & Very Humid).

 

Thinner oils are good at removing heat quicker than thicker oil. Thus the effect of your Temperature rising too fast. It will stop at a certain range...if go any higher, then engine got prob already lor.

 

Hope the above has clarify everyone's doubt.

[flareon1982]

Haha i understand what u say lah and i read it alot of times also. I only see the manual that say that it is best to use 10W-40W. I using thinner oil and thus was wondering if it is any better as the gear shifting part is the main concern here. Not what oil that is good and things like that. The gear only started when i used thinner oil. Thats why.

[Lister]

Morning to all.....

[IvikaRazI]

I am currently using a 10W-60W Elf Champione EO. Its seems that my gear have trouble switching from gear 1 to 2 once in a while. It gives the very hard changing sound. when u change gear but its not common.

 

Are you saying you are using 10W-60W.....this grade is thicker than what i am using which is Maxima 5W50 (Ultra racing oil equivalent to 10W40 of Extra). The 10W cannot be used in this instance since we dun have winter here. 60W is the viscosity of higher temperate....which is consider thick.

 

 

Haha i understand what u say lah and i read it alot of times also. I only see the manual that say that it is best to use 10W-40W. I using thinner oil and thus was wondering if it is any better as the gear shifting part is the main concern here. Not what oil that is good and things like that. The gear only started when i used thinner oil. Thats why.

 

EO is all about preference, I prefer to use thinner oil of viscosity of around 40, 30 is too thin and would require top-up often. This is my believe (others have different believe), the pistons are still 'tight', I do not want to loosen it by using a thicker oil. Only after a few years will I be using a thicker grade, since the pistons have worn down a bit.

 

Another believe, is that the additives used in EO of different company are different. If you keep changing EO of different make/model, it may hurt the engine in the long run. Try to keep to one brand. An extreme example is like you use one that uses baking soda, then a few weeks later you change to one that uses vinegar. Baking Soda + Vinegar = ???? heheheh.

 

A lot would want to argue about this. Well, this is my principal, cannot change me but can change bike.

 

As for your gear lever, I bet you never oil them. This could be the cause of stiffness. As for sound, thinner oils are known to make the loudest sound. A good example is aftermarket pipes.....all hollow inside hahahha.

[flareon1982]

Oh mine is a thicker oil. haha. **** man. It means that the oil does not flow to the engine fully when hot. No wonder the bike goes weaker when it is hotter. It seems that all the racing oil are of thinker properties. If thats the case, why do they need thinker oil when it is better with thinner oil in racing? Elf Champione, Motorex Power Synt 4T SAE 10W/60 and even CASTROL POWER1 4T RACING are all racing approved oils but it is thinker than the rest. Hmmmm. Food for thought guys.

[cyrix76]

Oh mine is a thicker oil. haha. **** man. It means that the oil does not flow to the engine fully when hot. No wonder the bike goes weaker when it is hotter.

 

What about getting "Engine ICE" for the coolant to make the temp lower? I have not use it myself yet, but from the reviews people has for it, I am considering to get my next coolant change using "Engine ICE".

 

Any idea when to change/top up your coolant? I know we can check the level on the right side ... but on average, how often(milage) do you guys need to top up? Or Flush and clean entirely the coolant?

 

Cyrix

[flareon1982]

I using my old Coolant that i use on my old bike when i change at 11,000 km. That will be 6k more to that. We need to top up? I dun think we need to topup leh. Flush and clean is done when u wanna change the coolent right?

[IvikaRazI]

What about getting "Engine ICE" for the coolant to make the temp lower? I have not use it myself yet, but from the reviews people has for it, I am considering to get my next coolant change using "Engine ICE".

 

Any idea when to change/top up your coolant? I know we can check the level on the right side ... but on average, how often(milage) do you guys need to top up? Or Flush and clean entirely the coolant?

 

Cyrix

 

Its a yearly affair...good to change every year so that no scums are stuck in your coolant system.

 

As for making the temperature lower, changing these coolant will help. Don't rely too much on your onboard temp. It will show higher than when you use ordinary coolant. This is because the temperate probe is at your radiator and not in the engine. This shows that the coolant is doing its job, by pulling off heat from the engine fast.

 

You would need a better radiator or can try Flareon method of putting up thick, original Aluminium Radiator guard. This not only cools the engine, but also adds 200cc to your bike (Max is 600 hor). Unless they change the mesh to GSR800 or GSR1000 then can get max to that cc lor. For optimal effect use BKing Grill if can fit....confirm 1300cc already eheheh.

[cyrix76]

I using my old Coolant that i use on my old bike when i change at 11,000 km. That will be 6k more to that. We need to top up? I dun think we need to topup leh. Flush and clean is done when u wanna change the coolent right?

 

I am kiasu and kiasee type mah ... scare the coolant drop below the marking ...so wandering will it ever drop below the margin???

 

The last oil change, I asked the bike mechanic to check the level, and to my shock... he opened up the oil tank and everything just to check the coolant level ... WTF ... that mechanic really cannot make it ... in the end, I told him, Ah cek ... you can check on the right side mah ... then he tilt my bike up straight then tell me yah ... look the line ... no need to top up ... I was like WTF again ... I am just merely asking him to do a quick check to see if it need top up mah as I am lazy to check myself, since I am there to change engine oil ... anyway, lesson learnt, want to check, check by myself better.

 

Any GSR bro using "Engine ICE" ? Any good?

 

Can we talk about GSR accessories? What else can we put on our GSR to custom it better?

 

Maybe I can start the list:

Radiator guard (Bro Flareon has it )

Hand guard

Hand Grip

Tail light (Motorworld ... they advertise in our thread a few pages ago-although I see the photo and it look like no different from the stock tail light)

Tank bra(GSR got or not???)

...

...

...

 

Cheers,

Cyrix

[IvikaRazI]

Anyone going to PC show on this Thursday, 12 June 2008? I am going there and waiting outside before it opens, which is 12 noon. So intend to be there at 11am and have lunch before going in. It'll be in Suntec Hall 3,4, & 6.

[swoosh]

Is it true all the bargains are on the last day?

[IvikaRazI]

Is it true all the bargains are on the last day?

 

To me its the same leh....you buy on 1st day...u get goodies...you buy on last day...cheaper but no goodies...so u be the judge.

 

The display sets like LCD TV will be dirt cheap. Anyway depends on what you wanna get.

 

I am just there to get the items I need and go off....too crowded...cannot breathe leh.

[swoosh]

ok thanks. me going on friday. So how is the new helmet so far.