[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[ramsnake]

I just brought a Yuasa YTX9-BS from lab and it is from china. Safe to use? cost me $55.

Do i need to charge before installing to my revo?

 

Yes, like everything else Yuasa batteries are mad in China for awhile now. Charge the battery overnight* before using so you'll have a battery with maximum capacity. A new battery that is not fully charged before 1st use will not be at full capacity. This lower capacity will become the new "maximum" for that battery.

 

*I'm just suggesting overnight for convenience as no time to calculate how many hours it will take to charge the battery

[revoltElastico]

ramsnake and winner,

 

found the problem. its with the throttle sensor that went haywire. the black smoke was a result of too much fuel injected causing non complete combustion and irregular iddling due to over and underflow of air since the fuel injector is not working correctly. anyone knows where to get a throttle body sensor??!

[ramsnake]

ramsnake and winner,

 

found the problem. its with the throttle sensor that went haywire. the black smoke was a result of too much fuel injected causing non complete combustion and irregular iddling due to over and underflow of air since the fuel injector is not working correctly. anyone knows where to get a throttle body sensor??!

 

Excellent! Where did you get it tested and confirmed it's the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)?

 

If I'm not mistaken, Unique might be the only ones bringing in the aftermarket TPS. About $250-300, I think. You might want to call Racewerks to check if they have too.

Please post the price once you have gotten it fixed. Thanks!

[afi1605202481]

Any bros here had their fuel injector cleaned at racewerk ?? How much they charged you and how the service ?

[Winners]

ramsnake and winner,

 

found the problem. its with the throttle sensor that went haywire. the black smoke was a result of too much fuel injected causing non complete combustion and irregular iddling due to over and underflow of air since the fuel injector is not working correctly. anyone knows where to get a throttle body sensor??!

 

Thanks for the reply. As per Ramsnake's suggestion above, I believe UNIQUE should be a good source to start with. Alternatively, you can check with MAH MOTORPARTS (62944048 - Jeffrey) for this item (if they have) and compare the prices.

[cabb]

Hi.

Does anybody here encounter this problem?

When i start my revo, headlamp no light. Even if i pressed the high beam, there was no light also.

But when i pressed the PASSING switch which is on the left side of my handlebar, there is light.

Mechanic says need to replace the right side ignition switch which is controlling the headlamp.

Is this a common problem?

Thanks.

[gamerzdude]

QUESTION: Adjustment of controls.

 

I wish to adjust the positioning of the control modules on the handlebars i.e. where the buttons are located (signal, light switches etc.). Can they be adjusted and how?

 

I took off the 2 screws that secures the control modules, and was not able to twist the module up or down in anyway.

 

Reason: I changed the angle of my handlebars, and thus wish to adjust the controls to a more optimal position. Clutch and brake handle, of course I was able to adjust. But the control modules doesn't seem to be able to turn - are they locked in position by a notch in the handlebars?

 

Thanks for anyone who can answer.

[Izammo]

Hi.

Does anybody here encounter this problem?

When i start my revo, headlamp no light. Even if i pressed the high beam, there was no light also.

But when i pressed the PASSING switch which is on the left side of my handlebar, there is light.

Mechanic says need to replace the right side ignition switch which is controlling the headlamp.

Is this a common problem?

Thanks.

 

Its a common problem. Those who encountered this usually sprayed wd40 inside the switch. You can give it a try.

[ramsnake]

Hi.

Does anybody here encounter this problem?

When i start my revo, headlamp no light. Even if i pressed the high beam, there was no light also.

But when i pressed the PASSING switch which is on the left side of my handlebar, there is light.

Mechanic says need to replace the right side ignition switch which is controlling the headlamp.

Is this a common problem?

Thanks.

 

Its a common problem. Those who encountered this usually sprayed wd40 inside the switch. You can give it a try.

 

I had the same problem just 2 weeks ago. Try what @Izammo suggested first. If it works, great. If it doesn't, send your bike to a trusted shop or DIY the following:

 

1) Use a test pen to test the wiring connections including the headlight fuse. In my case, the wiring was corroded and needed replacement. Note that the corroded wiring was for a headlight switch I had installed. Cost of replacing the wiring and troubleshooting - $25-30 depending on your shop rate.

 

2) If wiring is ok, then it most probably the headlight bypass switch in that's mated to the ignition button. The connection may be corroded over time. If WD40 didn't work, the switch cluster needs to be dismantled for a more thorough cleaning. This should do the job rather than replacing the entire switch assembly. The switch assembly is built to last and rarely needs to be replaced. Mechs who just ask you to replace the assembly are just too lazy to service/clean the part. I have little patience and no respect/trust in such mechs.

[ramsnake]

Any bros here had their fuel injector cleaned at racewerk ?? How much they charged you and how the service ?

 

Never found the need to do it but if you want, you can call or PM them to ask.

 

I keep my injectors clean with a simple routine:

Pump full tank of Shell VPower Racing at least once every 1-2 months. Then rev the bike while running to high RPMs (7-10k) as often as possible. VPower Racing has injector cleansing additives that will clean the injectors as you ride. Revving at high RPMs help by forcing the fuel through the injectors at max pressures.

[ramsnake]

QUESTION: Adjustment of controls.

 

I wish to adjust the positioning of the control modules on the handlebars i.e. where the buttons are located (signal, light switches etc.). Can they be adjusted and how?

 

I took off the 2 screws that secures the control modules, and was not able to twist the module up or down in anyway.

 

Reason: I changed the angle of my handlebars, and thus wish to adjust the controls to a more optimal position. Clutch and brake handle, of course I was able to adjust. But the control modules doesn't seem to be able to turn - are they locked in position by a notch in the handlebars?

 

Thanks for anyone who can answer.

 

I suspect that the 2 screws you are referring to are the bolts that secure the levers. For each of the switch assemblies, there is a screw underneath that clamp the assembly to the handlebars. Loosen the screws a bit (no need to remove) and you should be able to turn the assembly.

[cabb]

I had the same problem just 2 weeks ago. Try what @Izammo suggested first. If it works, great. If it doesn't, send your bike to a trusted shop or DIY the following:

 

1) Use a test pen to test the wiring connections including the headlight fuse. In my case, the wiring was corroded and needed replacement. Note that the corroded wiring was for a headlight switch I had installed. Cost of replacing the wiring and troubleshooting - $25-30 depending on your shop rate.

 

2) If wiring is ok, then it most probably the headlight bypass switch in that's mated to the ignition button. The connection may be corroded over time. If WD40 didn't work, the switch cluster needs to be dismantled for a more thorough cleaning. This should do the job rather than replacing the entire switch assembly. The switch assembly is built to last and rarely needs to be replaced. Mechs who just ask you to replace the assembly are just too lazy to service/clean the part. I have little patience and no respect/trust in such mechs.

 

 

Thanks a MILLION !!!

Will get the mechanic to DIY tomorrow.

[gamerzdude]

Not the levers. The switches, I have totally removed the screws and it wouldnt turn. I suspect there is a notch that goes into a hole in the handlebar.

 

I suspect that the 2 screws you are referring to are the bolts that secure the levers. For each of the switch assemblies, there is a screw underneath that clamp the assembly to the handlebars. Loosen the screws a bit (no need to remove) and you should be able to turn the assembly.

[ramsnake]

Not the levers. The switches, I have totally removed the screws and it wouldnt turn. I suspect there is a notch that goes into a hole in the handlebar.

 

Yes, I meant the switches assembly. I've just checked and confirmed there are 2 screws under the assembly. Loosening both screws should get it moving. Strange that your's can't move. I've seen the stock handle bars before and I don't remember there being any notches on the bars.

 

Anyway if you can wait, I should be going to the shop tomorrow afternoon. Will check mine while I'm there and let you know.

[hanern]

Yes, like everything else Yuasa batteries are mad in China for awhile now. Charge the battery overnight* before using so you'll have a battery with maximum capacity. A new battery that is not fully charged before 1st use will not be at full capacity. This lower capacity will become the new "maximum" for that battery.

 

*I'm just suggesting overnight for convenience as no time to calculate how many hours it will take to charge the battery

 

LAB told me not to charge. a bit sceptical. I went to find the yuasa battery technical manual and they mention to charge 3 - 5 hour at 1/10 of the current stated by the battery, but i charge about 4 hours. Hopefully it should be fully charge. Anyway thanks

[idbiot]

Hi All,

 

My battery had been running for 2 years plus.

 

Today, the cranking seems to be weak and then die off, no more cranking and the lights seems weaker.

I suspect is my battery having fault.

 

Can check with you guys, where can I get original/reliable battery for my revo that can last long?

What should I ensure when fixing the new battery at the shop?

How much roughly it cost?

 

Hi Hanern, care to share how did you charge the new batt at home?

 

Please advise.

 

Thanks all in advance.

[ramsnake]

Hi All,

 

My battery had been running for 2 years plus.

 

Today, the cranking seems to be weak and then die off, no more cranking and the lights seems weaker.

I suspect is my battery having fault.

 

Can check with you guys, where can I get original/reliable battery for my revo that can last long?

What should I ensure when fixing the new battery at the shop?

How much roughly it cost?

 

Hi Hanern, care to share how did you charge the new batt at home?

 

Please advise.

 

Thanks all in advance.

 

If you have the budget, go for Lithium batteries. PM @cypher

 

If you want lead acid batteries, go for Yuasa. Can get from LAB or FJT. These batteries lifespan is typically about 2-3 years only.

Do charge the battery before installing on bike. See related posts on this page.

[Bphomet]

Hi All,

 

My battery had been running for 2 years plus.

 

Today, the cranking seems to be weak and then die off, no more cranking and the lights seems weaker.

I suspect is my battery having fault.

 

Can check with you guys, where can I get original/reliable battery for my revo that can last long?

What should I ensure when fixing the new battery at the shop?

How much roughly it cost?

 

Hi Hanern, care to share how did you charge the new batt at home?

 

Please advise.

 

Thanks all in advance.

 

Very easy to DIY.

Just connect -ve & +ve.

[gamerzdude]

Yea bro, will wait for your reply after u check at the shop. Before I do any more tinkering with my bike.

 

Yes, I meant the switches assembly. I've just checked and confirmed there are 2 screws under the assembly. Loosening both screws should get it moving. Strange that your's can't move. I've seen the stock handle bars before and I don't remember there being any notches on the bars.

 

Anyway if you can wait, I should be going to the shop tomorrow afternoon. Will check mine while I'm there and let you know.

[idbiot]

If you have the budget, go for Lithium batteries. PM @cypher

 

If you want lead acid batteries, go for Yuasa. Can get from LAB or FJT. These batteries lifespan is typically about 2-3 years only.

Do charge the battery before installing on bike. See related posts on this page.

 

Hi Bro,

 

If buy at LAB, how to charge at home?

Does the battery comes with a charger?

[idbiot]

If you have the budget, go for Lithium batteries. PM @cypher

 

If you want lead acid batteries, go for Yuasa. Can get from LAB or FJT. These batteries lifespan is typically about 2-3 years only.

Do charge the battery before installing on bike. See related posts on this page.

 

Hi Bro,

 

If buy at LAB, how to charge at home?

Does the battery comes with a charger?

[revoltElastico]

Thanks for the reply. As per Ramsnake's suggestion above, I believe UNIQUE should be a good source to start with. Alternatively, you can check with MAH MOTORPARTS (62944048 - Jeffrey) for this item (if they have) and compare the prices.

 

After verifying with planet motors where i did a temp repair there, actually the throttle body sensor and throttle positioning sensors are two different components. Apparently the tps is easy to get, now I worry for where I can find the tbs, i have to replace it or i will face the same problem in the future..ramsnake, winner or anyone can help? Thanks...

[ramsnake]

Yea bro, will wait for your reply after u check at the shop. Before I do any more tinkering with my bike.

 

Opened up my switch assembly as I was replacing the throttle cables. Yes, you are right the first time - there is a hole in the handle bar and the assembly has a notch slotting into this hole to keep it in position. The hole is about 3mm in diameter. So, if you are going to move the switch assemblies by more than 2-3mm, you can drill a new hole in the handle bar for the new position. However if you are only going to move it by less than 3mm, I'd suggest you leave it as it is because drilling another hole too close to the original hole is going to weaken the bar. Best if the gap between the two holes is bigger.

 

Hi Bro,

 

If buy at LAB, how to charge at home?

Does the battery comes with a charger?

 

You need a charger, bro. Why don't you just go to your regular bike shop and ask them to order a Yuasa for you? Ask them to charge it you for at least 4-5 hours. If they won't do it for you, go to another shop.

[acidslug]

=( my mech asked me to replace and i did ..

 

I had the same problem just 2 weeks ago. Try what @Izammo suggested first. If it works, great. If it doesn't, send your bike to a trusted shop or DIY the following:

 

1) Use a test pen to test the wiring connections including the headlight fuse. In my case, the wiring was corroded and needed replacement. Note that the corroded wiring was for a headlight switch I had installed. Cost of replacing the wiring and troubleshooting - $25-30 depending on your shop rate.

 

2) If wiring is ok, then it most probably the headlight bypass switch in that's mated to the ignition button. The connection may be corroded over time. If WD40 didn't work, the switch cluster needs to be dismantled for a more thorough cleaning. This should do the job rather than replacing the entire switch assembly. The switch assembly is built to last and rarely needs to be replaced. Mechs who just ask you to replace the assembly are just too lazy to service/clean the part. I have little patience and no respect/trust in such mechs.

[ramsnake]

After verifying with planet motors where i did a temp repair there, actually the throttle body sensor and throttle positioning sensors are two different components. Apparently the tps is easy to get, now I worry for where I can find the tbs, i have to replace it or i will face the same problem in the future..ramsnake, winner or anyone can help? Thanks...

 

Hmm.... throttle body sensor? I haven't heard the term throttle body sensor before. As far as I know there are 2 sensors on the throttle body - Throttle Position Sensor and Auto-choke Sensor.

 

The TPS, if faulty needs to be replaced (just the TPS, not entire throttle body).

 

The auto-choke sensor is the one that increases the idling speed when the engine is cold. Recently I sent a bro from this thread to my favourite mech for idling issues. They found that the auto-choke sensor was dirty and just needed to be cleaned.

 

Pm me you hp number if you'd like a second opinion.