w7_lee

Went thru this 8 years back (bought from direct owner), so share my experience. But do note that I paid full cash (no loan), so was more straight forward. The owner apparently had 2 keys which he pass along to me. Mine was an old bike, so no manual. You'll need to ask but even if there is, it'll be maintenance manual (not repair manual). My experience was test ride was not possible. Seller highlight insurance concern. Maybe he worried I will ride off with the bike. Insurance needs about 3 days. Yes, tied to license number. You want to purchase with the start date as the date you take possession of the bike (in my case, it was the day we met at LTA to transfer ownership). Then is the process of transferring to your name at LTA. I met him outside LTA on day of transfer. Gave him 1K after enter LTA and took a Q number (this I mentioned on the phone when I confirm the deal with him a few days after viewing. Told him no deposit, will be full cash on day of transfer). After transfer, he pillion me to the nearby ATM to withdraw the balance. He left by bus/taxi and I rode off with the bike. PS: Before paying any deposit, you may want to have a look at the documents from LTA to make sure seller actually owns the bike. Also, check if it's fully paid up. Seller should be able to show proof it's fully paid up if it was on hire purchase. Don't rush... But mine was pre-Covid experience. Maybe some rules have change.

Arrow tip is just from my experience. Once I was going to fast, light turns amber and I could still see an arrow. Had to brake very hard that my rear wheel locked and could feel the rear of my bike moving left/right and had to drop gear quickly to slow further. Rear brake can only slow down but can't stop the bike. Engine brake can reduce the speed further safely. Only the front brake can actually stop the bike but only when the speed is slow (or safe) enough. Just don't let it lock. Speed is critical, don't go too fast. And yes, cameras are everywhere but I think it's necessary. Good luck

If you cross the stop line before it turns red, it's should not trigger the camera. My rule of thumb is that if I am going at (or near to) the speed limit of that road and light turns amber, as long as I can still see ONE arrow on the road (before the stop line), I'll stop even if it means I stop after the stop line. If no arrow but only the stop line, means I am too close & probably can't stop safely (without loosing control) anymore. I'll accelerate & go thru. Normally in this situation, we should cross the stop line before it turns red but it's just to get out of the junction ASAP.

I submit the details of my bike to deregister on 17 Nov and was given 1 week (24 Nov) by LTA, so it's 7 days. Just make sure the bike still have a valid road tax/insurance & COE on that last day when you ride to scrap yard.

Unfortunately mine could not move anymore, so I had to use the recovery guy's service. But I believe (but not sure) that the scrap yard will give some money to the person that sends it in (scrap metal money). The reason is because some years ago, a friend scrap his car himself and the scrap yard gave him $100 for scrap metal. So I believe it'll be the same, just don't know how much. The recovery guy also sound very keen when I contacted him.

If not loaning to extend the COE, it can done directly at LTA website. Very straight forward. I recently scrap my 23 year old Suzuki Impulse I got one of the bike recovery guy to send it to the scrap yard for me. He charge me $40. But you'll need his particulars to submit to LTA prior to sending it down. Your 2013 Super4 is worth extending it but probably wait for the COE price to lower down first.

I think the seals in my rear brake pump is kaput (again). At carpark speed and throttle close, I have to fully depress it and bike hardly slows down. It happen once about 4 years back and went to a shop at Ubi. The mechanic replace the seals and it fine. But he's exit the business. So wondering if anyone know of a bike shop in the east side that repair rear brake pump. TIA.

What did you use to jump start? I think for most battery kaput cases, you can push start. I normally use the slope in MSCP. As per kaiq's suggestion, with a multimeter, I think you should get more than 12.5V (without turning key to on) when measure directly from battery (engine cold). With key at On position, there will be slight voltage drop. And when you crank it, voltage should not go below 9.6V. But even if you measure good voltage, also does not mean the CCA is enough to start the bike. I recently had a similar problem on my bike. Initially, I also tot my 4.5 year old battery needs replacement but it won't start even on carpark slope. After troubleshooting for 4 nights, the problem went away. I think my main fuse might have to much oxidation and the contacts were not good (I was caught in a heavy rain). After I remove it and clean the fuse blade, the problem went away.

Sad news, makes me feel the NEA is targeting locals. We are here by birth, not by choice. Here in Singapore, it is already regulation that we have to have our vehicles inspected annually. And if I understand correctly (correct me if I am wrong), in Malaysia, there is no such inspection (for private vehicles). I think LTA (or NEA) should implement vehicle inspection for foreigners working in Singapore and using their foreign registered vehicles. Not just to reduce the number of CO2 pollutive vehicles but those with really loud exhaust too. Those commercial vehicles (buses & lorries) that comes in regularly should also go thru' inspection. If the vehicle pass our local inspection, issue them a vehicle permit (valid for 1 or 2 years) or don't flag the autopass. If fail, the person can still come in to work but use public transport.

Got the vacuum caps from Suzuki Motorcycle, a few dollars a piece. Now the impulse is normal. For now, can only conclude the 'lost' cap cause the lost in power. Symptom is similar is to faulty spark plug except engine dies off more easily. But cannot explain why the impulse won't start. Going to replace the battery and (hopefully) use it till the 5 year COE expire. PS: Suzuki Motorcycle was formerly Guan Hoe. They've moved to Kaki Bukit.

Check the bike again last night and it started fine but engine still die off when idling. Notice a sucking sound from the engine area (louder when listening from the left side). While giving a slight turn on the throttle just to prevent engine from die-off, listen more attentive and it was coming from around the petcock area. Initially thought that my vacuum line to the petcock was not properly connected but end up realize that it was coming from the vacuum port on the carburetor. Check the other 3 carburetors and they all had a cap, only the first carburetor on the left side was missing a cap and air was being suck in. When I put my finger to cover that port, the sucking sound was gone; engine idles better and don't die-off. It might have came off when I was riding..... now to find where to buy the vacuum inlet cap.

Check with a multimeter last night. Both 30A fuse are OK. Also discovered that only the 30A fuse on the outside is in use. The other fuse (inside) is a spare because there is no metal part in the fuse slot. Bike still start fine last night except for the original problem from last Friday (starts but die off when idling).

Tried to jump start the bike from the car battery last night. And still it don't start. Again, it make a single click sound & nothing happen. Check the 10A ignition fuse and it is OK. Notice another assembly below the fuse box; open it and saw 2 nos of 30A fuse inside (this is probably the master fuse box). Remove them (1 was tight in the fuse holder but the other slide out freely). Visually check both and they are OK too. It was almost 10.30pm and decided call it a night. After putting everything together, decided to give it a crank. This time, the bike came alive... Took it for a quick ride around the neighbourhood. The exhaust make a farting sound and bike wants to die off when idling. From past experience, it's a faulty spark plug (but they were just replaced with iridium type in Jan).

26 Mar 2018 - rode from east to NUS. For some reason, it was 35 deg C at the east and was raining like crazy at the west. Was caught in the rain along west coast flyover. Put on the raincoat and continue riding. Had a lot of side splash during the ride in the rain. It was still raining on the way back (to east) and again, along west coast flyover, it was sunny again. At Bedok, realize the bike lacks power and exhaust sound different. But was still able to make it back. 30 Mar 2018 - Tried to start the bike, it start but will die off when idling. Suspecting my plugs are wet, I took of the tank off and check. True enough, one of the rubber cover of the plug still has traces of water (after 5 days). Remove all the plugs and clean them with WD40. Tested the plugs individually and all are firing. Re-assembly and did a short test ride in the carpark. All's good. 31 Mar 2018 - was planning to bring it for inspection but it won't start. Tried with the down slope ramp and still don't start. Check the voltage of my battery and it shows 11.5V. Borrowed a battery charger from a next block neighbour (riding an S4) and brought the battery voltage back to 12.7V (full charge according to the charger). Install the battery onto the bike and still it don't start. Google a little and it mentioned that voltage should not drop below 9.6V during cranking. Check and mine went down to 7V. So maybe the battery is faulty; CCA is likely to be very weak. Not sure if my spark plug cleaning shorted something or kill the battery. Ignition fuse is still good. Going to have to get a new battery and try it out. Hopefully I did not damage anything during the plugs cleaning.

New entry for me, just to keep a log for whoever still riding this model Jan 2018 - replace my spark plugs cos one (at least) had 'kaput'. Symptom is when I give more throttle in second gear, power is not there. Had the replacement done at Ubi and change to Iridium. Mechanic confirm that 1 of the plugs was dead and he did comment that such an old bike, maybe the carburetor could kill the spark plugs prematurely. I accept this reason. Power was restore with the new plugs.

Not familiar with SR300 but for the brakes, when we use the hand lever (and foot lever), beside pumping the brake fluid to the brake pads, the brake switch (electrical) is also activated, closing the circuit, allowing electricity passes thru' and light up the brake light. Really much like the light switch at home. My guess is your brake switch might be stuck in the closed position, so the brake light is permanently on.

No worries. I extend by COE for another 5 years, so I can use it till Oct 2022. Strange you have a 15 liter tank, I guess maybe the tank design have variation.

Updating my above post.... Finally took my Impulse for a run last night and went straight to top-up petrol. Fill up about 8.5 liters to full tank, so with the 3+ liters that I collected on Wed, the tank capacity looks to be 12 liters (include reserve). Rode for more than 30 minutes and the Temp & Oil light did not come on last night, so it looks like they appeared last week due to low radiator water. Will have to check it more often. But my radiator fan did not come on. Could be the weather was cooling last night. Will have to monitor this.

I check my bike yesterday and found that my radiator was low on water/coolant. Check the reserve reservoir but cannot see the water level. Since the radiator is low on water, I assume the reservoir is empty too. Top up the radiator and hope the Temp & Oil light coming ON will not appear again. Will have to monitor further. Also check my radiator fan (connect directly to battery) and it is working. I had posted before to ask if anyone knows what is the actual capacity of the Impulse's petrol tank. The last few years that I been riding, I had to switch to reserve whenever I travel 150km (from full tank). I have no idea how much is in reserve, I normally top up asap (usually within the next 10km). And when I top up the petrol, I only fill-up between 7 & 8 litres. Since my mileage was at 150km now, if I were to top it up, it would be 7 to 8 liters. As I was removing the tank yesterday, I decided to find out the mystery. I drain the petrol tank and and it fill up a 3 liter container. There was still petrol in the tank but I think it is less than 1 liter. So there's about 3 liters of petrol left after switching to reserve.

Rode to CCK last night from Bedok using PIE, BKE and KJE. Was on the expressway most of the time. At CCK, had to stop at traffic junction and realize both my Temp & Oil light was on. But they go off when the bike is moving. Was there for 2.5hrs and before starting, felt the engine block and it was still warm. Engine starts fine and all was OK as I stop at the junctions in CCK. Use the same route back to Bedok. Again, after exiting the expressway, the Temp & Oil light are on whenever I stop at junctions and goes off when the bike is moving. I left the engine idling after I park, Temp & Oil light comes on. In neutral, I rev the engine lightly and they goes off. Did a quick check and I believe the radiator fan was not spinning. Anyone had similar experience?

Google for Bandit manual, it is about the same.

OOB = Out Of Bound, so no bike parking

Mind if I ask : - who's doing up your bike? - what are the work you are doing to it? - how much it cost? Yeah, PQP is dipping but my budget is 3K (4K max), so at this amount, I can only renew for 5 years. Will be waiting for the result this Thursday, then I will have to renew before end of Oct.

I assume you bought a 'used' bike, so be conscious that it is 'used'. Some of the repairs might not be too expensive. This may sound ridiculous but you can offer to pay for parts (and they take care of labor). Or you can go to other workshops if you are unhappy with their attitude. Manage your expectation on the amount of 'after sales service' to expect. But some bike shops are unethical (regardless of their size & reputation). I had a similar experience (some 20 something years ago). The bike was more than 10 years old and I bought it below 2K (bike was much cheaper then). Problems start to surface after a few days of riding and I had to go back for repair. The boss also start to show he was unhappy. After riding for about 4 weeks, the engine block seized-up and the boss ask me to pay for the repair. I just took it as I 'suay' to buy from that shop & had choose this bike.

I'm still riding it but COE is due in 6 weeks time. Planning to extend it but have not decide if for 5 or 10.