[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[arthur_chan]

i think p200 and p180 using the same reflector.

maybe can check with UM is they carry two diff reflector or only one?

 

i just called um, told me reflector all the same, recomm is 35w, higher at ur own risk, and they say will melt too.

 

in fact what they say= i dont know.

 

in more detail, the first guy told me got 2 part num, then fw me to a technician, told me only 1 type. but then the reflector is inside the head assembly and all sealed up. i asked which is more heat resistant, told me only the manuf will know about the specs.

Edited November 18, 2010 by arthur_chan

[alvinyansg]

i just called um, told me reflector all the same, recomm is 35w, higher at ur own risk, and they say will melt too.

 

in fact what they say= i dont know.

 

in more detail, the first guy told me got 2 part num, then fw me to a technician, told me only 1 type. but then the reflector is inside the head assembly and all sealed up. i asked which is more heat resistant, told me only the manuf will know about the specs.

 

which mech sia

haha

best is when down there for servicing that time ask in person easier

cause from last time i enquire both should be the same

[Gennosukes]

macross. there's also a few series about robots like code geases, eva, etc.

 

those robots not as cool as gundam :lol:

 

Any p180 ug3/ug 4 rider or p200 encounter this problem before ? Trip meter auto reset by itself. It is a common issue ?

[arthur_chan]

those robots not as cool as gundam :lol:

cant' believe u say eva not as cool as gundam...

[arthur_chan]

which mech sia

haha

best is when down there for servicing that time ask in person easier

cause from last time i enquire both should be the same

 

didnt catch his name, but i believe nobody knows the exact temp the reflector will melt.

unless u got the cash, then go get both reflector and we do a live test.

[Gennosukes]

cant' believe u say eva not as cool as gundam...

 

you referring to evangelion right ? not the taiwan hot chick eva hsiao ya lol.

[arthur_chan]

you referring to evangelion right ? not the taiwan hot chick eva hsiao ya lol.

 

i meant both, but eva hsiao better then gundam ya.

[arthur_chan]

http://www.125duke.com/uploads/tx_sfiarticle/1Y7I5629_01.jpg

 

production by bajaj

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/305250-New-high-end-2b-bike-KTM-125-Duke?p=6795072#post6795072

[ORen]

 

Any p180 ug3/ug 4 rider or p200 encounter this problem before ? Trip meter auto reset by itself. It is a common issue ?

 

It happens to me all the freaking time. The other day i was calculating my mileage and the damn thing reseted back to zero this close to emptying the fuel. I was so pissed.

I think it must be something we do with turning the oignitation off and on - from my side it can;t be bad treatment the damn bike is brand new.

 

ANyone had this issue before ?

[arthur_chan]

It happens to me all the freaking time. The other day i was calculating my mileage and the damn thing reseted back to zero this close to emptying the fuel. I was so pissed.

I think it must be something we do with turning the oignitation off and on - from my side it can;t be bad treatment the damn bike is brand new.

 

ANyone had this issue before ?

 

battery would be the 1st suspect. it happens if the voltage is too low and can happen esp in cold weathers. so if u got a voltmeter installed, check ur voltage when starting and running.

[ORen]

Guys, I'm trying to do something and I've been at it for days so I'm this close to loosing my mind over it , I would appreciate if someone could look into this and tell me what they think is the problem:

 

I decided to isolate my "accessories" from the battery by using the below diagram: (the thing in the middle is a relay, the thing on the right is a distribution block)

 

http://bolty.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/distribution_block_wiring_diagram.png

 

The benefits of this are:

- not cramp the battery terminal with tons of wires

- Once you add alarm +horn+lights + whatever, that's it you're already running out of space on the terminals and it gets messy everywhere

- this allows you to plug as many accessories as you want (of course within electrical system power range etc..) and these accessories will be turned on only when the ignition is ON or engine ON. It's easy to plug things in, you don't have to go and fish for headlight or tail wires or ignition wires every time you want to add something to your bike.

 

 

I have followed exactly the diagram above, and plugged a set of Bikevis bullets as accessory. It doesn't work. I have no idea why.

 

Here's the diagram for the bullets and podmod :

 

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/2713/podmodbullets.png

 

At first I used the license plate light as low power switch source. (brown and blue cable in the first diagram) : Not working, the lights won't turn on.

Then I used the tail light - not working. The bullets don't light up neither.

here's the tests I did to troubleshoot:

When I connect the bullets to the battery directly: they work.

I tested the continuity on ALL the wires used in the diagram: all check OK

I tested the voltage as follows :

- Relay Pin 30 to battery NEG : 12+V

- Relay Pin 85 to Battery POS: 12+V

- Distribution block NEG to Distribution block POS: 300 mV (why is that ? what does it mean?)

 

This is an image of where I tapped to get the switched power source from the tail light:

 

You can see I tried first the license plate light but since it wasn't working I tried the tail light blue wire instead. Both not lighting up the bullets. I knew the blue wire was the right one beacause my alarm is tapped into it and I tested the polarity and it's a positive wire.

 

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1367/taillight.jpg

 

Can you help me understand what is not right ?

I checked and double checked the relay's connections, everything is plugged according to the diagram.

What test can I do to understand where the problem comes from ? What am I missing ?

[ORen]

battery would be the 1st suspect. it happens if the voltage is too low and can happen esp in cold weathers. so if u got a voltmeter installed, check ur voltage when starting and running.

 

Can't be, happens to me, my battery is new, just changed it. And both voltmeter and multimeter indicate a healthy voltage.

[arthur_chan]

Can't be' date=' happens to me, my battery is new, just changed it. And both voltmeter and multimeter indicate a healthy voltage.[/quote']

 

i read some threads and all indicate is battery. what's the volt when u start up the bike? did it go below 12v?

[Gennosukes]

It happens to me all the freaking time. The other day i was calculating my mileage and the damn thing reseted back to zero this close to emptying the fuel. I was so pissed.

I think it must be something we do with turning the oignitation off and on - from my side it can;t be bad treatment the damn bike is brand new.

 

ANyone had this issue before ?

 

I encounter this issue like twice a mth. I understand how you feel.... It juz happen to me this morning.

[arthur_chan]

here's the tests I did to troubleshoot: [/u]

When I connect the bullets to the battery directly: they work.

I tested the continuity on ALL the wires used in the diagram: all check OK

I tested the voltage as follows :

- Relay Pin 30 to battery NEG : 12+V

- Relay Pin 85 to Battery POS: 12+V

- Distribution block NEG to Distribution block POS: 300 mV (why is that ? what does it mean?)

 

i'm not sure, shouldnt pin 30 be positive and 85 negative?

[ORen]

i read some threads and all indicate is battery. what's the volt when u start up the bike? did it go below 12v?

 

No, dead cold after a night outside, the voltmeter showed 12.4, after idling a couple of minutes, 12.8, and when i rev it another couple of minutes I go to 14V. I'm telling you Arthur, the battery is flawless.

I've been spending the past 3 days freaking measuring every goddamn electrical device on the bike trying to figure out the issue I posted in this page so I know my battery's voltage and behavior by heart trust me

 

My gut feeling is it has to do with that thing that happens sometime when we switch the ignition on and the dashboard light goes off, then you hit the electric starter and it goes on again ? It's like when you turn on the ignition, and don't crank the engine started, the bike will be on stand by, dashboard light off. Maybe at that point the meter doesn't get enough juice and resets itself ?

[ORen]

i'm not sure, shouldnt pin 30 be positive and 85 negative?

 

Yes they are, that's why when measuring I link them with the multimeter to battery NEG and POS respectively. Oh, I see what you thought: "12+V" means 12 and more Volts, sorry !

[arthur_chan]

My gut feeling is it has to do with that thing that happens sometime when we switch the ignition on and the dashboard light goes off, then you hit the electric starter and it goes on again ? It's like when you turn on the ignition, and don't crank the engine started, the bike will be on stand by, dashboard light off. Maybe at that point the meter doesn't get enough juice and resets itself ?

 

then i dont know...

because what i know is during the initial charge, if there's not enough juice, then the tripometer might reset itself. if u're sure it's not battery, then need to sort out component by component. however this kind of thing hard to diagnose if it doesn't happen immediately.

 

another reason could be u laid the bike too long and the charge disappate, again i dont know how long is consider too long but prob u need to monitor on this tip. btw some ppl say just on doesn't properly charge the battery, u need to ride around to charge it.

 

thus if u're using ur bike every day and confirm battery isn't the issue, then it's the component problem. temperature might affect but i also dont know to what extend.

 

to addon: if u on the ignition for too long and dont start the bike, ur charge will disappate slowly, u're actually powering up all ur electronic device without charging the battery, and u know ug3 n p200 are all running on electronic stuff.

Edited November 18, 2010 by arthur_chan

[arthur_chan]

Yes they are' date=' that's why when measuring I link them with the multimeter to battery NEG and POS respectively. Oh, I see what you thought: "12+V" means 12 and more Volts, sorry ![/quote']

 

no, i mean pin 30 n 85 should exchange, from ur 1st diagram, pin 30 comes from a + charge, so how come u measured negative?

[ORen]

no, i mean pin 30 n 85 should exchange, from ur 1st diagram, pin 30 comes from a + charge, so how come u measured negative?

 

I didnt: I placed the multimeter between the NEG terminal of the battery and pin 30 and got 12V. What makes you say I measured negative ? A measure is always supposed to be between a positive and a negative, isn't it ?

[Gennosukes]

PRATA SESSION TONITE @ AMK ? :cheeky:

[arthur_chan]

I didnt: I placed the multimeter between the NEG terminal of the battery and pin 30 and got 12V. What makes you say I measured negative ? A measure is always supposed to be between a positive and a negative' date=' isn't it ?[/quote']

 

oh yea my mistake, forgot it's suppose from + to - or vice versa.

have u tested 87 to -?

 

edit1: i think i understand, the relay down sized the incoming volt, i think u havent connect 86? by looking at the diagram, i still dont know the internal makeup of the relay or what the "low power source" means. rightfully u can connect 86 to the + of battery and see what happens, however there's a risk as it's stated "low power" so it might blow, however from lights are also 12v, so up to u if u want to try. btw 300mV = 0.3V, so that barely powers up anything. from the acc + to -, u should get 12V, same as incoming.

Edited November 18, 2010 by arthur_chan

[arthur_chan]

PRATA SESSION TONITE @ AMK ? :cheeky:

 

tot was wed only?

[Gennosukes]

tot was wed only?

 

sorri tot today wednesday lol.

[alvinyansg]

tot was wed only?

 

sorri tot today wednesday lol.

 

haha

no need only wed then can meet mah

but saying so i can't make it

haha