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Nemesis

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4 hours ago, urabummer said:

The reasons you stated are the exact reasons I love the dtsi 200. No radiator and oil filter so good. Parts so cheap. When UM ask permission to change I say just change spare no expense.

I've also test ridden friends' bikes and all but none give me the happiness on the Pulsar. It's a hard feeling to explain and they really don't understand why I love it so much. To me it's the perfect bike. Nice to know you're a fan!

Your bike looks so good! What a waste to scrap. You mentioned COE expensive(besides injury). Well COE now is atrocious haha. I've always said to myself as long as Bajaj continues manufacturing the parts I will keep the bike till classic plate. But then now COE 13k ๐Ÿ˜ญ. Maybe not feasible anymore and this is the last 7 years to ride my old faithful.

UM says the coverset is not in production anymore but I see that India still has new pulsar in this shape (unlike the NS), I believe they should fit?

Perhaps we could meet up and you give me advice on restoring my bike I really know nuts. I might just send it for overhaul, painting etc next week.

Like wise I can suggest, I rarely advice. Usually I hang out at Yung Sheng 101 at Yung Sheng Road, where Boon Lay Power Basi Lemak Taman Jurong branch is located or at time I just go to one kopi shop where it is in quiet area in between woodlands and Jurong somewhere in industrial area where MRT line cross. Surely we can meet up and talk over. Just PM me when you are free

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On 11/15/2022 at 8:03 PM, benchmarkwines said:

The original Pulsar came with a 150 cc or 180 cc air-cooled, single-cylinder, petrol, spark-ignited four-stroke engine. They featured a single spark plug to ignite the air-fuel mixture fed from a carburetor, simple spring shock absorbers, a round headlamp dome, and a 1,235 mm wheelbase. Disc brakes as standard equipment were a novelty in Indian motorcycles of the early 2000s. Other standard features were parking lights and an aircraft-type fuel tank lid. The 180 cc version came with an Electric Start (ES) and twin-tone horn, both of which were optional equipment on the 150 cc version.

Solid Lah!!!! Good information to share around on history of Pulsar. Favourite ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ

Edited by ConceptFuel
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  • 2 months later...

how often the clutch plates are to be changed for Pulsar NS 200?

Does any of you know any shops/mechanics where I could buy spare parts at a cheaper rate?

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21 hours ago, RajaKV said:

how often the clutch plates are to be changed for Pulsar NS 200?

Does any of you know any shops/mechanics where I could buy spare parts at a cheaper rate?

Hi Rajak,

Basically wet plate multiple clutch can last from as short as 2 years for harsh users and up to 12-15 years from rider who can really control and operate their clutch lever, throttle and engine rpm conservatively and also last longer than a dry single or multiple plate type. Do take note that a worm out wet clutch plate can show a very obvious sign when you ride the bike.

One way you will notice that the engine rpm can just rise up fast even when you accelerate gradually, lost of certain speed despite the usual engine rpm and especially when you go up hill, you will hear the engine rpm just go up high due to clutch slipping effect. Those are signs you need to change the clutch plates and pressure plates. Worst still if it is totally worn out, your bike won't even move when you pull the throttle at first gear and even can change to other gear without operating the clutch lever to any gear and still not stalling the bike engine.

If your bike dont feel any of any condition above, I suggest just keep using the clutch currently in your bike till you can start to feel a bit of slipping on the clutch disengaged operation, but to play safe change it every 5-8 years or 80,000km-100,000k as a preventive maintenance, remember wet clutches are design for long life and daily use unlike dry clutches on bikes, not to compare to cars alright for certain reasons ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ, hope that helps.

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22 hours ago, ConceptFuel said:

Hi Rajak,

Basically wet plate multiple clutch can last from as short as 2 years for harsh users and up to 12-15 years from rider who can really control and operate their clutch lever, throttle and engine rpm conservatively and also last longer than a dry single or multiple plate type. Do take note that a worm out wet clutch plate can show a very obvious sign when you ride the bike.

One way you will notice that the engine rpm can just rise up fast even when you accelerate gradually, lost of certain speed despite the usual engine rpm and especially when you go up hill, you will hear the engine rpm just go up high due to clutch slipping effect. Those are signs you need to change the clutch plates and pressure plates. Worst still if it is totally worn out, your bike won't even move when you pull the throttle at first gear and even can change to other gear without operating the clutch lever to any gear and still not stalling the bike engine.

If your bike dont feel any of any condition above, I suggest just keep using the clutch currently in your bike till you can start to feel a bit of slipping on the clutch disengaged operation, but to play safe change it every 5-8 years or 80,000km-100,000k as a preventive maintenance, remember wet clutches are design for long life and daily use unlike dry clutches on bikes, not to compare to cars alright for certain reasons ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ, hope that helps.

Many thanks for the insight.

As of now, not a major slipping issue, however, the gear shift is not smooth like earlier especially the downshift makes some noise and at times, gear engagement is a bit-off after a shift (not sure if this issue is related though). At times, the engines at lower speeds as well. The total mileage is 62,000 km as of now. mechanic suggested clutch assembly change...but the price was a bit steep. have clarified with mechanic if i can drag it a bit more which seems not a problem.ย 

alternative is to order online from a shop in KL that supplies these parts.. it was relatively half price. not sure how much workshops will charge for changing it.

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14 hours ago, RajaKV said:

Many thanks for the insight.

As of now, not a major slipping issue, however, the gear shift is not smooth like earlier especially the downshift makes some noise and at times, gear engagement is a bit-off after a shift (not sure if this issue is related though). At times, the engines at lower speeds as well. The total mileage is 62,000 km as of now. mechanic suggested clutch assembly change...but the price was a bit steep. have clarified with mechanic if i can drag it a bit more which seems not a problem.ย 

alternative is to order online from a shop in KL that supplies these parts.. it was relatively half price. not sure how much workshops will charge for changing it.

There is actually a shop in Johor Baru where a former mechanic use to work at Bajaj shop at Bukit Merah, you can bring ride up there for a check up. One main reason a gear shift is hard is not usually the clutch. But as a fact that it is actually easier to shift with a worn out clutch. Try these two things on check first.

Since yours, mine and common bike out there use mechanical cable operated clutch, the cable position have to be adjusted as the clutch plate worn out with use. Secondly check the bike chain slack, too much slack movement due to stretching as you ride with distance, also can hinder your gear shift, when you tighten your chain back you will notice the gear change is easier. Do these two things first alright ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ

Also, since I usually work on the road at night, I can even drop by your area to visually see if there is anything wrong, so do just msg me if you need some visual check if there is any doubt

Edited by ConceptFuel
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Hi guys riding a ns200 here. Recently when riding Iโ€™ve noticed a very shaky sound like something is loose when going down slopes/over humps. The bottom of the bike would vibrate slightly as well. Went to UM to get it checked and they replaced the ball bearings and rubber linings, however, the same issue still persists. Anyone able here got a clue as to whatโ€™s wrong or able to give me some advice? Really appreciate it!

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On 2/5/2023 at 9:06 PM, DakDak said:

Hi guys riding a ns200 here. Recently when riding Iโ€™ve noticed a very shaky sound like something is loose when going down slopes/over humps. The bottom of the bike would vibrate slightly as well. Went to UM to get it checked and they replaced the ball bearings and rubber linings, however, the same issue still persists. Anyone able here got a clue as to whatโ€™s wrong or able to give me some advice? Really appreciate it!

Are you referring to engine rubber mounting or the rear wheel rubber hub, for the bearings, is it wheel bearings on the front? It might just be a chain that is slacking too much that just require tightening. Try take a picture of the drive chain if possible, might be just that as a issue

Edited by ConceptFuel
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On 2/3/2023 at 1:24 AM, ConceptFuel said:

There is actually a shop in Johor Baru where a former mechanic use to work at Bajaj shop at Bukit Merah, you can bring ride up there for a check up. One main reason a gear shift is hard is not usually the clutch. But as a fact that it is actually easier to shift with a worn out clutch. Try these two things on check first.

Since yours, mine and common bike out there use mechanical cable operated clutch, the cable position have to be adjusted as the clutch plate worn out with use. Secondly check the bike chain slack, too much slack movement due to stretching as you ride with distance, also can hinder your gear shift, when you tighten your chain back you will notice the gear change is easier. Do these two things first alright ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ

Also, since I usually work on the road at night, I can even drop by your area to visually see if there is anything wrong, so do just msg me if you need some visual check if there is any doubt

Hi, Many thanks again...for now, the clutch solution you proposed seems to have solved the issue..the bike is not stalling that much as it used to. would be glad to catch up sometime to learn a bit more about the bike ๐Ÿ™‚ย 

Edited by RajaKV
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19 minutes ago, RajaKV said:

Hi, Many thanks again...for now, the clutch solution you proposed seems to have solved the issue..the bike is not stalling that much as it used to. would be glad to catch up sometime to learn a bit more about the bike ๐Ÿ™‚ย 

At your service, just glad to help if possible. Just leave a reply here when there is any doubts. Or meet ups or kopi to talk about any mech issue if I can resolved it. Some things can be fix in a simple ways ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ

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  • 1 month later...

Continuation of fuel intake system by implementing HERS and recalibration of fuel dosage to the combustion chamber. After months of break, so as continue on the I.C.E enhancement upgrades on the bike. As for a benchmark, a simple solid state heat transfer strip is being added to some part of the carb body preheating the fuel especially the pilot circuit.

Simple with don't need to be thinking too much, aluminum foil as a start. Pulling some heat off from the hot oil line to the camshafts. And attach it to the pilot area of the carb body for the fuel preheater. While on the right side of the carb the foil strip also take the heat from the same source hot oil line supplying engine oil to the camshaft. Not much strip is being use as temperature must not be too high for the petrol (gasoline) to be preheat.

The foil is wrapped on the right side of the carb to improve on the atomization pf the fuel into the air mixture before going into the engine at 20% throttling onwards opening.

IMG_20230218_202318.jpg

IMG_20230218_202333.jpg

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As tried riding it for three weeks, the pilot fuel screw have to be reduce to 2 turns open from 2.5 despite using a pilot jet normally use on a 150c.c engine. Idling RPM starts to go up by 150rpm to 1400, which normally I maintain the idling RPM at 1250rpm. Given the adjusted carb situation, the engine is very quiet at idling the to smooth combustion going on in the engine. And also on cruising speed of 15% throttle at 65-70kph. Most probably even the current stock main jet of 110 have to be reduce by one step of just have to lower the carb needle position by a rising the clip by one to avoid vary rich mixture.

But there is still alot of unused heat that is wasted from the engine production during higher speed and the engine is starting to bog, with the carb sweating excessively. Due to the constraint of heat transfer from the hot engine oil to the carb on higher speed, the HERS have to be upgraded.

With aluminum foil strips removed, and sourcing some industrial grade hoses, material not specify for certain reasons, carefully I layout the best route for the liquid base cooling to utilize the heat (recovery) from the hot oil to the carrier liquid inside the hose and transport it to the carb with three places of heating, and not just any how wrap around the carb. While waiting for the low wattage and low flow with proper calculation in place. I just have to settle with natural convention of the heat carrier liquid flowing in the hose, until the mini pump arrived.

A DISCLAIMER: Please take note that what I am doing is not just plug and play like a computer, it take some basic calculation, material selection, energy conversion and usage consideration in place. Following just blindly will end up with major engine damage, or even higher fuel consumption in return. Do refer to certain topics related like physics, mechanical, chemistry and basic thermodynamics and lastly metallurgy. Most importantly understand the law of nature and dont go against it, you never win. Ride safely everyone :).

IMG-20230317-WA0012.jpeg

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