Mito Riders

[lacrimosae]

Originally posted by yanwei@Sep 30 2006, 02:58 AM

Hey guys, it was a fun outing just now, got to know my bike better. Previous seller, damn c*. Once bitten twice shy liao, LL now have to put in money to fix the bike. Slowly bit by bit will fix it up.

My conclusion, don't ever trust those who say they always DIY their bike, especially those only good at sticking stickers and tcss/smile at you.

Anyway, thanks for all your advices just now. Will ponder on it.

Fantastic conclusion. Generalization and stereotyping at its finest!

 

How about those who DIY overhauls, change clutch, rear shock, fork servicing, tuning and jetting, etc?

 

Hope your bike gets the TLC it deserves. I'm sure you'll take better care than the previous owner.

 

Syarif,

Light coloured oil could be gear oil. Black colored sticky oil could be a leaky exhaust.

Milky white could be gear oil contamination due to coolant leak.

Please check that these oil patches belong to your bike before bringing it to mechanic. Also, check the gear oil in your bike that it is a clear gold colour, not milky whitish.

 

Sounds like your clutch needs to get looked at too.

[jonathan543]

Originally posted by syarif@Sep 29 2006, 07:02 PM

hey i noticed something on my bike..

 

 

1. when i park my bike just nw for like 2 hrs... i notice theres 2 leaks underneath..

the colour? one is like oil *suspecting some engine oil or wat*... and the other one was like whitish *first i laugh.. thot my bike PCC...*.. the part which im concerning is... its quite alot u see.. like arnd 5ml?

 

2. i usually have to rev my bike frm neutral to 1st gear.. if nt,stall... when i clutch in n start,the bike will jerk forward n it'll move forward after restarting... is there anything wrong with something? people say its quite common in mito abt having to rev the bike or else it'll stall.. true?

 

 

 

so pros... enlighten me... the jr...

well bro..

1. i would suggest u take ur bike for engine servicing, which would include cleaning of the carbon from piston, valve etc, flushing out of the coolant, which the colour will tell u more bout the condition of the coolant system, changing of the engine oil, which again will tell u more on the engine's condition, and the gaskets which might have contributed to the leaks.

i would say the oil leaks are from the exhaust header, or the worn out gaskets. the white stuff might be coolant leaking. =>>insufficient coolant or gearbox oil will damage the bike very fast due to overheating.... so better fix it asap!

as ben had suggested, confirm the leaks are indeed from ur bike, then decide wad to do.

 

2. dats rubbish! 2b italian bikes are the same as other popular 2b thai bikes out there! problem is most of the bikes are in pretty bad condition, and very old ,>5yrs and so components are sure to get worn out. take a similiar number plated thai bike and it would still have the same problems, though it is cheaper to fix.

oh not forgetting i noticed italian bikes, especially cagivas, are picky on the choice of 2t oil & gearbox oil.

motul 710 had the right mix of value & protection, for the more popular castrol r2 had cases of carbon seized valve, which either the servo motor gets fried as a result, or snapped valves in most cases on aprilias.

i dunno bout aprilias but cagivas are picky on the gearbox oil selection. for the ease of kicking to neutral when stopped and smooth gear changes, use a thicker visosity 4t oil, like 5w50. 5w40 dun work for my bike, harsh shifting, even harder to kick to neutral, etc.

wad matters is the bigger number "50" koz i heard this the visosity number when the oil is hot. the smaller visosity is when the oil is cold..

 

for ur stalling of the engine, there might be 3 causes-

 

1. adjust ur clutch cable tighter, as in u need to release the clutch further to the bitting point. there are adjustable nuts on the lever to do the job. wad happens if the clutch is adjusted too loose is dat whenever ur clutched in, ur merely half clutched in and the clutch is still not fully disengaged. dat might explain why when clutched in the bike still moved forward. not gd at all koz ur wearing ur clutch plates fast!

 

2. clutch plates sticky- this had occured on new bikes, or 2nd hand bikes which was never used for some time. the clutch plates had difficulty to get seperated from each other when the clutch was clutched in. changing of the gearbox oil & some days of riding should fix it.

 

3. worn out clutch plates. most prob due to improper setting of the clutch, which i highlighted above. not cheap to replace, think costs $200-$300 for the plates alone, excluding labour and parts. heard generic brands will fit in at half the price too haha.

 

rectify the problems in the steps above, koz they're placed in consideration on the amount of money needed to fork out. gd luck!

[lacrimosae]

I use single-grade oil for gear oil, Silkolene Maintain Pro SRG 75 100% ester synthetic racing gear oil. This ensures maximum protection.

 

From Silkolene's website on the 75W SRG "...for racing gear boxes where gear trains are subjected to very high power outputs and high shock loadings. Exceptional anti-seize and low friction properties extend component life and reduce power losses. Superior thermal stability maintains consistently high performance from start to chequered flag."

 

Another I'd recommend is the Maxima Synthetic Gear Oil (High Performance) 75w90 100% Ester-Based Synthetic.

 

This is a multigrade oil which I've used only once before. It has proven to be better than most other oils.

 

Unil-Opal, which is from France, is pretty good too, unfortunately it is not 100% synthetic. It is a semi-synthetic gear oil 10W40. I used this for a long time, and it works very well.

[yanwei]

Originally posted by lacrimosae@Sep 30 2006, 08:33 AM

Fantastic conclusion. Generalization and stereotyping at its finest!

 

How about those who DIY overhauls, change clutch, rear shock, fork servicing, tuning and jetting, etc?

 

Hope your bike gets the TLC it deserves. I'm sure you'll take better care than the previous owner.

 

Syarif,

Light coloured oil could be gear oil. Black colored sticky oil could be a leaky exhaust.

Milky white could be gear oil contamination due to coolant leak.

Please check that these oil patches belong to your bike before bringing it to mechanic. Also, check the gear oil in your bike that it is a clear gold colour, not milky whitish.

 

Sounds like your clutch needs to get looked at too.

My stereotyping is only at one person, and TBH, it is not you. I do not know how good is your DIY skills, and maybe you're very very good. But I am not talking about you, if you understood the underlying/obvious meanings of my post. Initially I wanted to do more for the bike when I took it over, naively thinking that there were few things that needed sorting out. Now, there is a whole truckload of sh*t waiting for me. Maybe even more than what you would expect from a 2nd hand bike.

 

I do not want to whine about it, but I'm feeling real pissed at tat previous owner, who when I first looked at the bike, tell me everything can easily fix, ask whether got problems, say no problems at all. Only problems are those that can see. Engine no problems, and the like. He seemed to have a good reputation at DIYing, so apparently it seemed that he would have taken good care of it.

 

It's great that you DIY your bike, no doubt about it. But for those who want to know how to but don't have the tools (I know skills can learn) nor know what to clean the parts with or troubleshoot, perhaps you could consider spending some time, to guide us through DIYing our bikes? Maybe a meetup or something? I for one, would definitely appreciate it.

[lacrimosae]

Originally posted by yanwei@Sep 30 2006, 12:22 PM

My stereotyping is only at one person, and TBH, it is not you. I do not know how good is your DIY skills, and maybe you're very very good. But I am not talking about you, if you understood the underlying/obvious meanings of my post. Initially I wanted to do more for the bike when I took it over, naively thinking that there were few things that needed sorting out. Now, there is a whole truckload of sh*t waiting for me. Maybe even more than what you would expect from a 2nd hand bike.

 

I do not want to whine about it, but I'm feeling real pissed at tat previous owner, who when I first looked at the bike, tell me everything can easily fix, ask whether got problems, say no problems at all. Only problems are those that can see. Engine no problems, and the like. He seemed to have a good reputation at DIYing, so apparently it seemed that he would have taken good care of it.

 

It's great that you DIY your bike, no doubt about it. But for those who want to know how to but don't have the tools (I know skills can learn) nor know what to clean the parts with or troubleshoot, perhaps you could consider spending some time, to guide us through DIYing our bikes? Maybe a meetup or something? I for one, would definitely appreciate it.

 

I understand how you must feel. As buyers, we may not always be able to ascertain the true condition of a bike. Your experience is unfortunate, but not isolated. We are all victims of a bad purchase at some point.

 

I'd be glad to help.

How bout we begin with a simple carb wash?

We'll meet at my place next Sat, 7 Oct 1400hrs.

 

What you need:

- allen key set

- screwdriver

- small container

- aerosol cleaning solvent (brake cleaner/carb cleaner)

- petrol

- pliers

- small toothbrush

- rag

 

Time to strip your darling and consummate that marriage. Rather than let another man feel the insides of your wife for you.

 

[PS:To stereotype is to impose a fixed or general pattern, oversimplified or biased mental picture held to characterize the typical individual of a group. You cannot stereotype an individual on his own. just FYI]

[linglila]

Originally posted by Sub Zero@Sep 28 2006, 09:14 PM

Tell Jackson i want rematch for our little pickup race..

 

I'm not one to give excuses, but my valve was jammed that day..

 

After my repairs, i want to play with my bro again.. And after i heal also..

 

My sincere thanks to Geko for being there for me after my crash at PG.. he escort me home, even help me take out my suit and boots.. Thanx bro.. Join the Aprilia family soon!

 

While Linglia and I join the Honda family..

Ya..Rvf man!!

Hah..alway only cagiva n aprilia family.

we mus have more others family together like that then not sian mah..

[amgm125]

It's good to have different bikes as a gathering like a big family. Just that later your RVFs too fast la we 2b cannot catch up la :giddy:

[RedHare]

Will be sending my bike to FM for a full servicing. Where can i get maxima EO and how much?

 

How much a full servicing cost? wat is the package like?

 

Thinking of fixing a boyeseen doubloe carbon reel valve does it improve the engine performents?

 

will 12/front and 43/rear spocket stress the engine of mito when reving till 7500 before changing gears?

 

Pls enlighted me

[kwyjibo]

Originally posted by sKyVodKa@Oct 1 2006, 07:02 PM

Will be sending my bike to FM for a full servicing. Where can i get maxima EO and how much?

 

How much a full servicing cost? wat is the package like?

 

Thinking of fixing a boyeseen doubloe carbon reel valve does it improve the engine performents?

 

will 12/front and 43/rear spocket stress the engine of mito when reving till 7500 before changing gears?

 

Pls enlighted me

U can get Maxima pdts at Racewerks. Get transmission/gear oil and not 4T. Around $20/bot.

 

Full servicing depends on how u define it. If u just do the usual like change spark plug, gear oil, wash carb should not cost u more than $50. Exact price not too sure.

 

Boyeseen reeds improve both low n top end response.

My Mito's stainless steel valve work just as well either but it only improve the top end response. However advantage is it defintely will last n wont break.

However if ur valve is chipped, it will b better for u to change.

 

Urs is Evo7 right? Stock sprock ratio for Evo7 is 14/39=0.35897. So ur 12/43=0.2791 is abt a 14/49.

0.27907/0.35897=0.7774 which means there is a reduction in ur top speed by 22.3%=38kmph.

Assuming ur current stock top speed is 170kmph, ur new top speed will be only 132kmph.

At 7th gear 7500rpm ur speed is around 70kmph?

7500rpm is around e rpm which the valve opens for stock settings.

Expressway riding for Mito is usually around 8.5krpm.

[kwyjibo]

Just to add:

Imo keep to the stock settings. If u really want better pick up, increasing e rear sprock by 1 or 2 teeth is good enough; vice versa decreasing for top end.

Try to keep e front sprocks settings cos its effect is harder to gauge.

 

If u r like me lazy to lube the chain and dont like the lube dirtying ur clean rims, u can try changing to a 428 chain too. A lighter chain will give better pick up and power transmission but will not last as long as a heavy duty one.

No need lube n just leave it as it is. It can last u for at least half a yr.

Compare this to regular cleaning n lubing which is so troublesome and will give u a chain life of 1.5-2yrs, i will rather change my chain every half a yr. Its not that ex to change every half a yr.

[syarif]

U can get Maxima pdts at Racewerks. Get transmission/gear oil and not 4T. Around $20/bot.

 

 

whats the diff between 4t n gear oil? do u guys buy these gear oil and engine oil and ask the mechs to top it up or do u guys just leave it to the mechs to top it up watever kind of oil?

 

i havent send for servicing.. currently not using my bike.. found out that the coolant is totally empty.. n underneath like flood..

must be mine then.. i guess its the leaking coolant and contaminated gear oil due to the leak...

 

ive got a mech who understands my bike.. he's been repairing and adjusting my bike since the first day i took out my bike.. so shld i still stay with the mech or go to other known places eg FM,Excel...?

 

 

and lastly,thanks alot u guys...

[syarif]

and wait wait wait... maxima,castrol r2, motul or esso gold for 2t...

 

 

 

recommendations?

 

 

 

and is it gear oil or engine oil? or both? im soo confused between these 2 oils...

 

 

and chain lube... shld i clean the chain first? if i need, how? thot of buying maxima chain lube.. so how to apply?

 

wanna take care of all sH*t frm now on...

 

and lastly.. STICKERS! where to get em at good price?

 

oh im such a newbie..

[jonathan543]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@Oct 1 2006, 11:39 PM

Just to add:

Imo keep to the stock settings. If u really want better pick up, increasing e rear sprock by 1 or 2 teeth is good enough; vice versa decreasing for top end.

Try to keep e front sprocks settings cos its effect is harder to gauge.

 

If u r like me lazy to lube the chain and dont like the lube dirtying ur clean rims, u can try changing to a 428 chain too. A lighter chain will give better pick up and power transmission but will not last as long as a heavy duty one.

No need lube n just leave it as it is. It can last u for at least half a yr.

Compare this to regular cleaning n lubing which is so troublesome and will give u a chain life of 1.5-2yrs, i will rather change my chain every half a yr. Its not that ex to change every half a yr.

geko- eh he meant the reedvalves la, in between the carb and the engine. ur mentioning the exhaust valves la...

 

redhare- to say the very truth, changing to after market reedcages or valves had not much significant improvements! even the cost of the new moto tassirnri vforce3 reedcage dun justify the tiny improvements...

 

syarif- as the names had mentioned, 4t oil is used for 4t engine while gearbox oil is used for gearboxes. we would suggest 4t koz it had more available visosity choices compared to the gearbox oil, though suppposely it wun last as well as the former. and so i supposed in 4t engines, the 4t engine oil oso acts as the gearbox oil too? 2t dun have engine oil for lube, koz the crankcase's hollow and it's the 2t mixed in the fuel intake acts as the lube. and since the gearbox is isolated from the crankcase, the gearbox had a delicated oil to do it's job, as opposed to 4t engines' combined oil system.

[RedHare]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@Oct 1 2006, 11:25 PM

U can get Maxima pdts at Racewerks. Get transmission/gear oil and not 4T. Around $20/bot.

 

Full servicing depends on how u define it. If u just do the usual like change spark plug, gear oil, wash carb should not cost u more than $50. Exact price not too sure.

 

Boyeseen reeds improve both low n top end response.

My Mito's stainless steel valve work just as well either but it only improve the top end response. However advantage is it defintely will last n wont break.

However if ur valve is chipped, it will b better for u to change.

 

Urs is Evo7 right? Stock sprock ratio for Evo7 is 14/39=0.35897. So ur 12/43=0.2791 is abt a 14/49.

0.27907/0.35897=0.7774 which means there is a reduction in ur top speed by 22.3%=38kmph.

Assuming ur current stock top speed is 170kmph, ur new top speed will be only 132kmph.

At 7th gear 7500rpm ur speed is around 70kmph?

7500rpm is around e rpm which the valve opens for stock settings.

Expressway riding for Mito is usually around 8.5krpm.

Many Thanks dude! I been to racewerk once when I was riding my TZM just kinda dun trust their skill. Think is better to let Ah Seng do the job and see how after all I think he is more experience in mito.

 

Anyway I still very new to mito. Just feel that why the bike dun have good pick up. Everytime when I ride i will pay attention to pick up. I do change the gears before reving to 7500 sometime 8000.

 

Thanks for the spocket info. Now then I know i have big spocket without even check ( I m a NewBie always a newbie ) Hope to learn more from u guys

[syarif]

syarif- as the names had mentioned, 4t oil is used for 4t engine while gearbox oil is used for gearboxes. we would suggest 4t koz it had more available visosity choices compared to the gearbox oil, though suppposely it wun last as well as the former. and so i supposed in 4t engines, the 4t engine oil oso acts as the gearbox oil too? 2t dun have engine oil for lube, koz the crankcase's hollow and it's the 2t mixed in the fuel intake acts as the lube. and since the gearbox is isolated from the crankcase, the gearbox had a delicated oil to do it's job, as opposed to 4t engines' combined oil system.

 

 

GOT IT! soo... i'll have those 4t then.. how much litre shld i buy...? those 5w50 rite? n after that,after hw many clicks then must change?

[Sub Zero]

Originally posted by yanwei@Sep 30 2006, 02:58 AM

Hey guys, it was a fun outing just now, got to know my bike better. Previous seller, damn c*. Once bitten twice shy liao, LL now have to put in money to fix the bike. Slowly bit by bit will fix it up.

My conclusion, don't ever trust those who say they always DIY their bike, especially those only good at sticking stickers and tcss/smile at you.

Anyway, thanks for all your advices just now. Will ponder on it.

Now you know... But like what Lawrence said, it's something we all go through.. we learnt the hard way.. so dont get cheaped again!!

 

Dude, i love the way you put it la.. Anyway, the genius who so called DIY the bike and spend so much, why would he want to sell it right?? lol.. got problem, so he got rid of it..

 

Take your time, work out all the kinks.. If you plan to ride it long..

[Sub Zero]

Originally posted by syarif@Oct 2 2006, 09:35 AM

ive got a mech who understands my bike.. he's been repairing and adjusting my bike since the first day i took out my bike.. so shld i still stay with the mech or go to other known places eg FM,Excel...?

 

 

and lastly,thanks alot u guys...

Dude,

 

Go to a mech you trust.. Simple as that.. i would only recommend First Motor..

 

Not Racewerkz, and definitely not Excel... If you're sure that your mech knows what he is doing, then by all means stay..

 

Ah Seng at FM is tested and proven to me.. and most people...

 

lastly, always check parts price with the guys here.. so you know what you're getting into!

[Sub Zero]

Originally posted by RedHare@Oct 2 2006, 02:04 PM

Many Thanks dude! I been to racewerk once when I was riding my TZM just kinda dun trust their skill. Think is better to let Ah Seng do the job and see how after all I think he is more experience in mito.

 

Hear Hear!

 

How so very true.. Know how to talk, dunno how to do..

 

 

PS Syarif, I go for Esso Gold as it's a very good 2T that i am using as a sub for Mobil Racing and also it's easily available in case you ever run out...

[RedHare]

May I know where can i adjust the ideling ? My bike always stall when i engage 1st gear while waiting for traffic light. I have to keep open the throttle abit then others biker will look at me

 

HAHA Ah seng told me MITO is a lady. A bit also cannot must always maintain unlike the japs bike. He said so many mito to repair

 

Anyway i enjoy riding it just that you really have to take extra care for the bike and extra cash also la.

 

I when to change my EO ( rock oil ), sparkplug, wash carb and valve already $83 liao. Is this the price or i kena chop liao?

[kwyjibo]

So many posts.

 

Redhare,

FM is more recommended becos Ah Seng have been doing Italian bikes for qte a well n they do have e stock for e parts there readily, b it 2nd or 1st hand. Of cos most imptly is to jus go to whom u trust.

 

There is a screw like knob located on ur carb. Turn it clockwise to increase e idling n anti clockwise to decrease.

Most prob ur engine always die is cos of ur clutch plates. They r near their limit. Alternatively u can also adjust ur biting pt further away by increasing e tension of e clutch cable using e screw located near ur clutch.

 

Syarif,

2T for normal riding or even track i will seriously recommend Motul 710 for injector type system. Premix not too sure but can try Motul 800.

Motul 710 also not that smelly. Motul is also endorsed by Mr Fabian Looi our SG veteran racer!

Sikolene i feel is a bit smelly la.

For R2 there were qte a few cases of seize n jam b4 for Mito. A few doller more per mth spent on 2T isnt that much for e added insurance right?

 

For fully syn oil u can change every 5000km, semi syn every 3000km.

1 bot is 1 litre though there r 2 litre bots. Mito only needs 800ml so e rest u can throw away.

5W40 or 10W40 or 15W40 is more than good nuf.

There should b no diff if u use 4T or gearoil as ur transmission oil since 4T is also used in 4 strokes' gear box. But i believe there must b a reason y e manufactuer distinguish e 2 eh?

 

The temp gauge should nv show above 80 degrees.

 

Ur stickers r still with me.

 

Vik,

I know who is e DIY guy u talking abt. HAHAHAS!

[alanhim]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@Oct 3 2006, 01:11 AM

So many posts.

 

Redhare,

FM is more recommended becos Ah Seng have been doing Italian bikes for qte a well n they do have e stock for e parts there readily, b it 2nd or 1st hand. Of cos most imptly is to jus go to whom u trust.

 

There is a screw like knob located on ur carb. Turn it clockwise to increase e idling n anti clockwise to decrease.

Most prob ur engine always die is cos of ur clutch plates. They r near their limit. Alternatively u can also adjust ur biting pt further away by increasing e tension of e clutch cable using e screw located near ur clutch.

 

Syarif,

2T for normal riding or even track i will seriously recommend Motul 710 for injector type system. Premix not too sure but can try Motul 800.

Motul 710 also not that smelly. Motul is also endorsed by Mr Fabian Looi our SG veteran racer!

Sikolene i feel is a bit smelly la.

For R2 there were qte a few cases of seize n jam b4 for Mito. A few doller more per mth spent on 2T isnt that much for e added insurance right?

 

For fully syn oil u can change every 5000km, semi syn every 3000km.

1 bot is 1 litre though there r 2 litre bots. Mito only needs 800ml so e rest u can throw away.

5W40 or 10W40 or 15W40 is more than good nuf.

There should b no diff if u use 4T or gearoil as ur transmission oil since 4T is also used in 4 strokes' gear box. But i believe there must b a reason y e manufactuer distinguish e 2 eh?

 

The temp gauge should nv show above 80 degrees.

 

Ur stickers r still with me.

 

Vik,

I know who is e DIY guy u talking abt. HAHAHAS!

Yo so how's your RS 250 coming? Thought you said want to update me

[kwyjibo]

Originally posted by alanhim@Oct 3 2006, 08:06 AM

Yo so how's your RS 250 coming? Thought you said want to update me

Hahas why so kan chiong to b whipped in ur ass?

I don think i can go to track day this mth cos working.

Most prob my first session on e 250 will b on 17th/18th this mth. Free?

 

Anyway u serious abt trying spark on track ah?

Not as rich as u to do so much to a transport bike!

Defintely must change to racing footrest n of cos e tyres?

[Sub Zero]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@Oct 3 2006, 09:42 AM

Hahas why so kan chiong to b whipped in ur ass?

I don think i can go to track day this mth cos working.

Most prob my first session on e 250 will b on 17th/18th this mth. Free?

 

Anyway u serious abt trying spark on track ah?

Not as rich as u to do so much to a transport bike!

Defintely must change to racing footrest n of cos e tyres?

Kaiwei,

 

can go last week Oct or not?? I no time to do my Aprilia coz of my CAs now eh.. Got term paper due also...

 

I want to be there for ur 1st time with the rs250 eh... Make it a tue or wed morning.. best time for me.. hehe..

[syarif]

Syarif,

2T for normal riding or even track i will seriously recommend Motul 710 for injector type system. Premix not too sure but can try Motul 800.

Motul 710 also not that smelly. Motul is also endorsed by Mr Fabian Looi our SG veteran racer!

Sikolene i feel is a bit smelly la.

For R2 there were qte a few cases of seize n jam b4 for Mito. A few doller more per mth spent on 2T isnt that much for e added insurance right?

 

For fully syn oil u can change every 5000km, semi syn every 3000km.

1 bot is 1 litre though there r 2 litre bots. Mito only needs 800ml so e rest u can throw away.

5W40 or 10W40 or 15W40 is more than good nuf.

There should b no diff if u use 4T or gearoil as ur transmission oil since 4T is also used in 4 strokes' gear box. But i believe there must b a reason y e manufactuer distinguish e 2 eh?

 

The temp gauge should nv show above 80 degrees.

 

Ur stickers r still with me.

 

Vik,

I know who is e DIY guy u talking abt. HAHAHAS!

 

 

 

ouh okie2... thanks alot... as for the stickers.. i'll take it tmr,wednesday at 8pm? under ur blk?

[alanhim]

Originally posted by gekokujyou@Oct 3 2006, 10:42 AM

Hahas why so kan chiong to b whipped in ur ass?

I don think i can go to track day this mth cos working.

Most prob my first session on e 250 will b on 17th/18th this mth. Free?

 

Anyway u serious abt trying spark on track ah?

Not as rich as u to do so much to a transport bike!

Defintely must change to racing footrest n of cos e tyres?

Wow come how your bike design same as mine one

 

Ya I eager to whipped your ass leh ....hahaha

15th oct track day right from what I heard ...... then 17th /18th go again my wife going to kill me leh

 

Spark ha ..... hahaha actually think of trying la but got to change so many things like racing footrest n tyres which I think quite stupid for a transport bike leh. Waste of money. Then pillion my wife with racing footrest also not so comfortable. She sure complain one.....hahaha. Unless go there change to racing one then come back to singapore change back to normal one lor. haha