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[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem


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Posted

Thanks for the information given. It really help me widen my knowledge about bikes especially mine.

 

Sent my bike for servicing and changed my sprocket, chain and headlight bulb. damage: $96.

 

I must say after the change, the bike has more power and is silent compared to my old dry chain.

 

There is engine braking but it does sound like its causing some damage if used at the wrong gear. I didn't know that my 150cc is technically a 300cc.

 

Hi Shuanneo

 

Sorry I did not pick up the fact that you have a TA 150.

 

Hamsterwhale is perfectly correct, your fuel/oilair mixture is delivered through a port which is uncovered by the piston, and the exhaust gas is removed by another port on the opposite side. This reduces the number of moving parts considerably. So you have no worries about a camchain tensioner as it is not fitted to your bike.

 

AS the TA 150 has 2 power strokes to the TA 200's one it also means your bike is the equivalent of a 300cc 4 stroke, the downside is you have no engine braking.

 

I re-discovered this fact on the island of Koh Chang several years ago, I was riding down a steep muddy track on a side of a mountain in a rainstorm. The bike kept accelerating (100cc Honda Wave) and I daren't apply the brakes too heavily. No problem I said to my wife, I'll change down, clunk 3rd, no difference apart from the engine increasing revs.

 

Hmm ok a bit fast but I'll try 2nd, clunk, now the engine is screaming accompanied by my wife, the bike is still accelerating.

 

I have no idea what speed we achieved going down this slope but somehow managed to keep the bike uprightish, slaloming through a couple of tight bends and luckily up the opposite slope as the 3 three of us were screaming like banshees in unison. Now that my friends was a Heineken moment.

 

Happy and safe trails

 

Aitch

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Posted
although I don't really wish to test it, but I think phantoms can quick-shift upwards at least...

 

My favourite activity :D

 

You can quickshift down too. Blip the throttle to match RPMs. Everyone around you will go omgwtfbbq at the sound. Obviously sounds good :D

Posted
ah chong is inside a shop called planet, the shop is at ubi

 

here is a map for your reference:

 

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_991007228l.jpg

 

:cheers:

 

Thanks VidaK ! :thumb:

2B 181208

Posted

i have just replaced my spockets and DID o-ring chain ...cost me 120 bux ...

 

initially the bike was making some tap tap noise between 3rd - 5th gear ...

 

Ah Chong was able to pick out the problem immediately after a test ride and now my bike is a lot quieter and smoother.

 

Thanks for the information given. It really help me widen my knowledge about bikes especially mine.

 

Sent my bike for servicing and changed my sprocket, chain and headlight bulb. damage: $96.

 

I must say after the change, the bike has more power and is silent compared to my old dry chain.

 

There is engine braking but it does sound like its causing some damage if used at the wrong gear. I didn't know that my 150cc is technically a 300cc.

Posted

My brake pump is fixed ! Is actually when installing the brake pad air when into the pump and cos the brake pump unable to function. Learn new things again ~

2B 181208

Posted

Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

 

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

 

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

 

 

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

 

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

 

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed.

 

 

 

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

 

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

 

 

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

 

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

 

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol.

Solution: Obvious.

 

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

 

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

 

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

 

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

 

 

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

 

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

 

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

 

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

 

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

 

 

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

 

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

 

 

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

 

 

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

 

 

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

 

 

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

 

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

 

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

 

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

 

 

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

 

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

 

 

Problem 13: My exhaust gives have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

 

 

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

 

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

 

 

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

 

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

 

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

 

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

 

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

 

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

 

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

 

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake.

 

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

 

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
My brake pump is fixed ! Is actually when installing the brake pad air when into the pump and cos the brake pump unable to function. Learn new things again ~

 

as I have thought so... the process of removing this air is called bleeding the brakes :smile:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted

Hi Mr Koh,

 

What's a good way to clear the brake dust from the pads?

 

Also a general qn:

 

It seems we have engines that are quite demanding on air; very pressure sensitive so if you overtake a lorry on the e-way you may have experienced a momentary loss of power as the wake turbulence from the larger vehicle takes its toll.

 

Any solutions for this? Airbox mod is probably out of the picture for most and can result in worse torque if done wrong but I have had success practising some offensive riding :p

 

Basically, overtaking anyone slowly usually results in the other driver racing you just for the hell of it. So I build up a huge head of speed and zoom past and I notice, hey, if you throttle up and accelerate decisively the intake isn't affected by the turbulence.

 

Anyways, Phantom riders are such an interesting bunch. Junior TA riders are usually rather careful. It's the uncles who race their Phantom 200s at 120+kph and slice through traffic like Yamaha hell riders :p

 

Do those uncles have smaller sprockets? Pureice and I conclude that with stock gearing the top gear redlines (ie, you hit rev limiter) at around 130kph indicated. I believe our machines can go significantly faster (or cruise more comfortably & economically) if the 6th gear ratio was smaller.

Posted (edited)

1. Switched to Motul 3000 on your recommendation and big difference. Whatever engineering they put in this oil really is superior to my previous $6 oil (Castrol 10W40). Engine does not "go rough" at higher RPMs and lose breath.

 

From your experience would you recommend remaining at Motul 3000 or should I try semisynth next? This is a 7 yr old engine block with lots of new and/or reconditioned parts and run in is more or less complete.

 

I'll skip the scientific technobabble but I've been given to know that a lighter oil can flow faster at a given pressure and thus perform a better job of reducing friction and transferring heat.

 

Lighter oils also provide better cold start protection due to lower viscosity at normal air temps. Which means they can start flowing faster than a 50 or 60 weight the moment the motor turns over.

 

Interestingly, recommended racing oils are almost always of a heavier type than for street use. I guess the 50 and 60 weights are great for high temperature, high stress / RPM conditions such as for local highways.

 

Looks like I answered my own question :D at least on the oil weightage bit. Synthetic indeed is superior to dino stuff but I'd prefer to always have fresh oil in the crankcase and that means the $10 Motul, changed regularly, is more than good enough for this purpose.

 

And oil additives are a big no no to me, having read about their development, use, and marketing. Some of them have bad side effects too..

 

(see, Phantoms are so fun. Can experiment with everything without blowing up :3 )

 

2. Back to brake pads - seems like there's a screeching sound from the heavily-used front brakes, but both front pads are not even visibly worn. I've taken to "skimming" the brakes with light pressure on the lever to get rid of whatever dust is on the contact area causing the screeching.

 

Does work as a temporary solution.

 

3. Need a generic recommendation for cleaning and oiling supplies for a oiled cotton gauze air filter (yep it appears mine has an aftermarket filter). Planet does sell the filter oil but not the cleaner.

Edited by Pandora's Kitten :3
Posted
Hi Mr Koh,

 

What's a good way to clear the brake dust from the pads?

 

Also a general qn:

 

It seems we have engines that are quite demanding on air; very pressure sensitive so if you overtake a lorry on the e-way you may have experienced a momentary loss of power as the wake turbulence from the larger vehicle takes its toll.

 

Any solutions for this? Airbox mod is probably out of the picture for most and can result in worse torque if done wrong but I have had success practising some offensive riding :p

 

Basically, overtaking anyone slowly usually results in the other driver racing you just for the hell of it. So I build up a huge head of speed and zoom past and I notice, hey, if you throttle up and accelerate decisively the intake isn't affected by the turbulence.

 

Anyways, Phantom riders are such an interesting bunch. Junior TA riders are usually rather careful. It's the uncles who race their Phantom 200s at 120+kph and slice through traffic like Yamaha hell riders :p

 

Do those uncles have smaller sprockets? Pureice and I conclude that with stock gearing the top gear redlines (ie, you hit rev limiter) at around 130kph indicated. I believe our machines can go significantly faster (or cruise more comfortably & economically) if the 6th gear ratio was smaller.

 

My preloved phantom 200 could do a 135 kph on a straight road. Now me old uncle already so ride px150 :p

 

For brake dust, dont be too troubled by it, Just give your brake disc a wash once in a while.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted

Hi Bros.

 

Need some advice from pros Bros here..

 

Recently, there's this "SCREEHING" sound coming out from my left side(REAR).

 

Guess not the Chain or Spocket. Could it be the WHEEL BALL BEARING?

The sound comes out on and off at times.

 

Appreciate your help.

 

Thank you!

 

Regards

5 Oct 2005 - Jun 2007(SP) FS6059X

18 Jun 2007 - 26 Nov 2007 -> CBR400, L model problematic FJ532*S

 

26 Nov 2007 - 12 Nov 2011 -> TA200, FV2X2G

12 Nov 2011 - 12 Nov 2012 -> SYM GTS200, FZ99*0D

 

29 Nov 2012 - 13 July 2015 -> KIA Rio HB 1.4M, SFY*

13 Jul 2015 - 28 Apr 2018 -> Kia Cerato V2 SKT*

 

28 Apr 2018 till current -> Hyundai Elentra S_trim SLZ*

Posted

That is so true - compared to decades ago, the products we have on the shelves today appear to be highly overengineered.

 

It is indeed 'to each his own' with regards to oil. The motors that come with synthetics from the factory are much more likely to be fire-breathing monsters that run at 17,500rpm, than a 200cc motor that doesn't even come with a horsepower rating...

 

Syns are always superior oils to dinos regardless, but whether it's prudent to pay 3x more for a Motul full synthetic is up to individual vanity.

 

For me, a good analogy is whether one should buy the best and greatest Corei7 processor for an office workstation. For the majority of computer users out there in the corporate world, the potential of that powerful processor will never be used.

 

I didn't buy this bike to go 140kph on the highway (would have chosen TA150 for that) or to race around town doing despatch (rather take the MRT).

 

That is why I'm perfectly happy with Castrol 10W40 ($6) despite its poor lubrication at higher RPMs, and Motul 3000 20W50 with its smoother performance and better HTHS lubrication is divine.

 

Of course, one day I'd discover the nirvana of synthetic oil (as some can attest to), but there's no hurry to do so. Better to be happy with what you have and explore at leisure, than to be never satisfied with chasing for what others say is the best and greatest.

Posted

Advices pls.....

 

Thanks

5 Oct 2005 - Jun 2007(SP) FS6059X

18 Jun 2007 - 26 Nov 2007 -> CBR400, L model problematic FJ532*S

 

26 Nov 2007 - 12 Nov 2011 -> TA200, FV2X2G

12 Nov 2011 - 12 Nov 2012 -> SYM GTS200, FZ99*0D

 

29 Nov 2012 - 13 July 2015 -> KIA Rio HB 1.4M, SFY*

13 Jul 2015 - 28 Apr 2018 -> Kia Cerato V2 SKT*

 

28 Apr 2018 till current -> Hyundai Elentra S_trim SLZ*

Posted
Advices pls.....

 

Thanks

 

ah chong is inside a shop called planet, the shop is at ubi

 

here is a map for your reference:

 

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_991007228l.jpg

 

:cheers:

 

I had posted this in the current page... :weep:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

 

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

 

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

 

 

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

 

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

 

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed.

 

 

 

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

 

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

 

 

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

 

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

 

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol.

Solution: Obvious.

 

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

 

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

 

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

 

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

 

 

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

 

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

 

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

 

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

 

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

 

 

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

 

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

 

 

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

 

 

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

 

 

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

 

 

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

 

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

 

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

 

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

 

 

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

 

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

 

 

Problem 13: My exhaust gives have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

 

 

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

 

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

 

 

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

 

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

 

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

 

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

 

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

 

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

 

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

 

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake.

 

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

 

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

this the updated list dude? :thumb:

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

hi guys, got my license already!:clap:

 

I took the bike for a ride today and hor, I dont know it's me or what, It kinda feel like driving lorry for anyone who drove a lorry before.. it's like my speed at 80 plus but the engine was like damn loud and pushing it to close to 90 the handlebar also like a bit vibrating..

 

When i drove my dad's lorry, max gear and at 80 something, it kinda feel like i'm already pushing the lorry too much.. feels the same with the bike..

 

And my bike really hard to start.. :(

probably weak battery cos i din really go rev it regularly beforehand.

Edited by hecter85
Posted
hi guys, got my license already!:clap:

 

I took the bike for a ride today and hor, I dont know it's me or what, It kinda feel like driving lorry for anyone who drove a lorry before.. it's like my speed at 80 plus but the engine was like damn loud and pushing it to close to 90 the handlebar also like a bit vibrating..

 

When i drove my dad's lorry, max gear and at 80 something, it kinda feel like i'm already pushing the lorry too much.. feels the same with the bike..

 

And my bike really hard to start.. :(

probably weak battery cos i din really go rev it regularly beforehand.

 

80+ on ur meter or real speed? its pretty normal for phantom to be like that... as for mine it will get loud n vibrate near 100 (my meter) which is abt 80 for real spd

Posted
80+ on ur meter or real speed? its pretty normal for phantom to be like that... as for mine it will get loud n vibrate near 100 (my meter) which is abt 80 for real spd

 

eh, got such thing one ah.. it's 80+ on meter.. how you tell your speed if not by meter? haha..

 

I rode in t-shirt and berms, when i stop hor, i thought my hairs on my arms and legs got static.. lol.. Nv experience that when i'm learning bike..

Posted
eh, got such thing one ah.. it's 80+ on meter.. how you tell your speed if not by meter? haha..

 

I rode in t-shirt and berms, when i stop hor, i thought my hairs on my arms and legs got static.. lol.. Nv experience that when i'm learning bike..

 

Gear up bro! Dun leave it to chance! Some of us got the scares to proof that it's not worth it, especially for ladies! Ride safe and live to ride another day!

Don't do it to others what you don't want others to do to you! God bless! :cheers:

Posted

well said from Pureice ! ;DD Get at least a FF helmet... you got only 1 brain 1 head.. Once gone it's gone..

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
eh, got such thing one ah.. it's 80+ on meter.. how you tell your speed if not by meter? haha..

 

I rode in t-shirt and berms, when i stop hor, i thought my hairs on my arms and legs got static.. lol.. Nv experience that when i'm learning bike..

 

by stock all our phantom meter are not accurate... so if i see max spd 90 i will go 110 if 80 i go 100... i assume u are not wearing gloves, tts y u might feel a lil numb by the vibration... most of the time wearing glove + jeans will help a lil...

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