[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem

[hecter85]

Gear up bro! Dun leave it to chance! Some of us got the scares to proof that it's not worth it, especially for ladies! Ride safe and live to ride another day!

 

Will do that, just need to get the items..

[pureice68]

by stock all our phantom meter are not accurate... so if i see max spd 90 i will go 110 if 80 i go 100... i assume u are not wearing gloves, tts y u might feel a lil numb by the vibration... most of the time wearing glove + jeans will help a lil...

 

Ya, but dun need to go so fast lah! 80-90 on our meter is enuf! Dun go and think about the 'discounted' speed lah! Phantom is a cruiser leh! Relax, enjoy the sceneries! Furthermore, when you travel at a faster speed, you also miss out on alot of pretty chickadees on the road! But den again, dun road hog too! Hahaha....

[hecter85]

lol.. ok.. will take note of that...

[kmjoe]

for some reason i tend to go faster when im in full gear (for me is armor jacket n glove n covered shoes n jeans) but if im in berm or no jacket i will be more relax haha... btw i dun really c chicks while otr, not safe leh... but following them hard to say =x

[pureice68]

for some reason i tend to go faster when im in full gear (for me is armor jacket n glove n covered shoes n jeans) but if im in berm or no jacket i will be more relax haha... btw i dun really c chicks while otr, not safe leh... but following them hard to say =x

 

I think for your case hor! It's for the chickadees to see you lah! Hahahaha...

[kmjoe]

that is before removing the helmet... lol...

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

80+ on ur meter or real speed? its pretty normal for phantom to be like that... as for mine it will get loud n vibrate near 100 (my meter) which is abt 80 for real spd

 

Cruiser bikes are tuned for torque so you should be comfortable cruising within the legal speed limit. The Phantom is a loud bike at first but you'll get used to it and run at 90-100 like the rest of them.

 

If you want more efficient highway cruising (or a 151kph top speed), a sprocket ratio change is advisable, along with other interesting modifications. Over-revving = bad.

[jB]

hi guys, got my license already!

 

I took the bike for a ride today and hor, I dont know it's me or what, It kinda feel like driving lorry for anyone who drove a lorry before.. it's like my speed at 80 plus but the engine was like damn loud and pushing it to close to 90 the handlebar also like a bit vibrating..

 

When i drove my dad's lorry, max gear and at 80 something, it kinda feel like i'm already pushing the lorry too much.. feels the same with the bike..

 

And my bike really hard to start..

probably weak battery cos i din really go rev it regularly beforehand.

I also thought its like a lorry's handling

[hecter85]

I also thought its like a lorry's handling

 

haha.. finally got someone agree with me.. think other faster bike will feel like driving a car like that.. haha

[SNapEl]

Get someone experience to test ride your ride to make sure it isn't your clutch plates that need replacement.

[ylsonny]

hey guys,

 

i rode home, went up to take some stuff, and when i came back to my bike, it can't be start. about 5 mins only.

 

when i press the start button, there is the sound of spark like " tiiiiiiiiiiiiii tiiiiiiiiiiiiiii " but it just can't ignite to start the engine. any idea what's wrong and how to solve it. the bike is now useless in my carpark.

 

Am i still able to push start in this condition?

[Zhi Ming]

hey guys,

 

i rode home, went up to take some stuff, and when i came back to my bike, it can't be start. about 5 mins only.

 

when i press the start button, there is the sound of spark like " tiiiiiiiiiiiiii tiiiiiiiiiiiiiii " but it just can't ignite to start the engine. any idea what's wrong and how to solve it. the bike is now useless in my carpark.

 

Am i still able to push start in this condition?

 

maybe means batt gone , must change batt. $35 shinko from planet i think.

 

Yes , still can push start.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

haha.. finally got someone agree with me.. think other faster bike will feel like driving a car like that.. haha

 

Yep, when I first got a Phantom it handled like a container truck. Everything has to be planned 3 seconds in advance. Traffic goes faster than me 3 seconds ahead every time the lights turn green.

 

After a month of DIY tuning, drilling holes and doing kopitiam engineering goodness, it handles like a Super4 without the Super part

 

Took some pillions to test ride various bikes (as passenger) and they loved the "DIY VTEC", to quote their words. Lol.

[jB]

haha.. finally got someone agree with me.. think other faster bike will feel like driving a car like that.. haha

those who know vehicles will know how diff vehicles resembles one another ;] You'll love the aprilia if you like shorter wheelbase and sports handling

 

Yep, when I first got a Phantom it handled like a container truck. Everything has to be planned 3 seconds in advance. Traffic goes faster than me 3 seconds ahead every time the lights turn green.

 

After a month of DIY tuning, drilling holes and doing kopitiam engineering goodness, it handles like a Super4 without the Super part

 

Took some pillions to test ride various bikes (as passenger) and they loved the "DIY VTEC", to quote their words. Lol.

Vtec? Simi lai eh? Got MuGen power?

[plush]

1. Switched to Motul 3000 on your recommendation and big difference. Whatever engineering they put in this oil really is superior to my previous $6 oil (Castrol 10W40). Engine does not "go rough" at higher RPMs and lose breath.

 

From your experience would you recommend remaining at Motul 3000 or should I try semisynth next? This is a 7 yr old engine block with lots of new and/or reconditioned parts and run in is more or less complete.

 

I'll skip the scientific technobabble but I've been given to know that a lighter oil can flow faster at a given pressure and thus perform a better job of reducing friction and transferring heat.

 

Lighter oils also provide better cold start protection due to lower viscosity at normal air temps. Which means they can start flowing faster than a 50 or 60 weight the moment the motor turns over.

 

Interestingly, recommended racing oils are almost always of a heavier type than for street use. I guess the 50 and 60 weights are great for high temperature, high stress / RPM conditions such as for local highways.

 

Looks like I answered my own question at least on the oil weightage bit. Synthetic indeed is superior to dino stuff but I'd prefer to always have fresh oil in the crankcase and that means the $10 Motul, changed regularly, is more than good enough for this purpose.

 

And oil additives are a big no no to me, having read about their development, use, and marketing. Some of them have bad side effects too..

 

(see, Phantoms are so fun. Can experiment with everything without blowing up :3 )

 

 

I know my reply is a few months late, from what i have encountered when i was driving, thinner weight synthetic oils (ie 5w30, 10w40) works well with naturally aspirated engines, revs easier, slightly better fuel consumption, i have tried a 15w50 oil on an NA engine, feels more sluggish. Whereas, in a turbo engine, given that it generates more heat, usually would be using 20W50 or 5W50 oil, and it works fine, but too heavy an oil like 10W60, car would feel sluggish.

 

For our TA200, what would be the normal engine running temperature? and can we put in synthetic oil for cars in our bikes? after all they are 4 stroke engines right?

 

was thinking a normal 5w30 or 5w40 synthetic oil would be suitable for the bike and since oil is changed every 3000km to 4000km or so, it would not affect running the engine too much.

[jtzx]

I know my reply is a few months late, from what i have encountered when i was driving, thinner weight synthetic oils (ie 5w30, 10w40) works well with naturally aspirated engines, revs easier, slightly better fuel consumption, i have tried a 15w50 oil on an NA engine, feels more sluggish. Whereas, in a turbo engine, given that it generates more heat, usually would be using 20W50 or 5W50 oil, and it works fine, but too heavy an oil like 10W60, car would feel sluggish.

 

For our TA200, what would be the normal engine running temperature? and can we put in synthetic oil for cars in our bikes? after all they are 4 stroke engines right?

 

was thinking a normal 5w30 or 5w40 synthetic oil would be suitable for the bike and since oil is changed every 3000km to 4000km or so, it would not affect running the engine too much.

 

Bike EO and car EO very different.. Car EO in bike = slippery clutch for bike...

[plush]

Bike EO and car EO very different.. Car EO in bike = slippery clutch for bike...

 

learnt something new today, Thanks!

[pureice68]

learnt something new today, Thanks!

 

Hahaha, ya it's very educational! Cheers!

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Turbo diesel pickup oil is reputed to be great for bike engines. So long as they're free from friction reducers.

 

Why?

 

Don't ask me, I'm sick of being shot down by the "new ideas = bad" crowd

 

There's a lot of interesting things that can be done to simple small bike engines.

[plush]

Turbo diesel pickup oil is reputed to be great for bike engines. So long as they're free from friction reducers.

 

Why?

 

Don't ask me, I'm sick of being shot down by the "new ideas = bad" crowd

 

There's a lot of interesting things that can be done to simple small bike engines.

 

But that is what a forum is for, to share and explore ideas, discuss and learn new things.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

.but dont come here say why no one warn you

 

Thanks, but I did my homework regarding oil chemistry. Now, like all my other DIY activities, the more resistance to the idea, the more profit I'll make.

 

So no thanks.

[pureice68]

car engines uses car eo..

diesel engines uses diesel eo

bike engines uses bike eo..

bicycle engine can use all types of eo

 

your bike u can use whatever eo u want...but dont come here say why no one warn you..all virgin bikers should read up their maintenace manual first..then u dont have to ask silly questions..or go through the sbf encyclopedia..the answer is there if u believe it.

 

Relax bro relax, all come here to learn, share and exchange ideas and experiences nia lah!

[hecter85]

Yep, when I first got a Phantom it handled like a container truck. Everything has to be planned 3 seconds in advance. Traffic goes faster than me 3 seconds ahead every time the lights turn green.

 

After a month of DIY tuning, drilling holes and doing kopitiam engineering goodness, it handles like a Super4 without the Super part

 

Took some pillions to test ride various bikes (as passenger) and they loved the "DIY VTEC", to quote their words. Lol.

 

haha... diy Vtec.. well, i'm now riding 3rd and 2nd lane. hardly ever 1st lane.. probably once i acquire more EXP then i'll start thinking of ways to get it faster..

[jtzx]

Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

 

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

 

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

 

 

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

 

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

 

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed.

 

 

 

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

 

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

 

 

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

 

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

 

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol.

Solution: Obvious.

 

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

 

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

 

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

 

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

 

 

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

 

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

 

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

 

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

 

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

 

 

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

 

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

 

 

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

 

 

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

 

 

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

 

 

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

 

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

 

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

 

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

 

 

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

 

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

 

 

Problem 13: My exhaust gives have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

 

 

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

 

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

 

 

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

 

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

 

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

 

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

 

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

 

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

 

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

 

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake.

 

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

 

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

[jB]

I know my reply is a few months late, from what i have encountered when i was driving, thinner weight synthetic oils (ie 5w30, 10w40) works well with naturally aspirated engines, revs easier, slightly better fuel consumption, i have tried a 15w50 oil on an NA engine, feels more sluggish. Whereas, in a turbo engine, given that it generates more heat, usually would be using 20W50 or 5W50 oil, and it works fine, but too heavy an oil like 10W60, car would feel sluggish.

 

For our TA200, what would be the normal engine running temperature? and can we put in synthetic oil for cars in our bikes? after all they are 4 stroke engines right?

 

was thinking a normal 5w30 or 5w40 synthetic oil would be suitable for the bike and since oil is changed every 3000km to 4000km or so, it would not affect running the engine too much.

usually I change in less than 3k or 2k mileage. Get maxima or else just stick to the manual recom EO. Try other EO for other makes/models at your own risk

 

Bike EO and car EO very different.. Car EO in bike = slippery clutch for bike...

Agree though some might work, it still is too cumbersome as there are already R&D EO for bikes that work already.

 

Have fun ya'll