[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem

[plush]

since learning that clutch shares the engine oil with engine, i now understand why there are EO for cars and EO for bikes, i will stick to bike EO.

[jtzx]

yes.. better do man.. haha.. come out with us next outing lahz.. we share with u more ;D

[plush]

yes.. better do man.. haha.. come out with us next outing lahz.. we share with u more ;D

 

definitely, will look out for next gathering.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Agree though some might work, it still is too cumbersome as there are already R&D EO for bikes that work already.

 

Agree - esp with the huge amount of low cost and overengineered (ie, more than good) bike oils in the market it makes no sense to dispute common sense.

 

Until I find myself in a place where there's little infrastructure and oh no, there's only a selection of Soviet-era stuff lying around!

 

Then ahh, it's beneficial to know what makes a bike oil a bike oil, what's good for wet clutch and high revs, and so on. Surprise - sometimes you find that products designed for a very different purpose have a very similar composition... and they've been used to run motorcycles successfully as well.

 

General knowledge - the acquisition thereof and application in everyday life is an art form

[hecter85]

hi all, recently when i ride, I found myself when i'm stopping at traffic light, i can't kick down to gear 1. I clutch in, and keep depressing the gear lever many times but no change in gear. Then lights change, i have to move off from whatever gear i'm in, which i think is 3rd or 4th gear, dies a few times lo but it give me momentum to continue without changing gear. Safe and Sound. Car never honk me. Probably see my P plate.

 

2nd incident, also when stopping at traffic light, I want to change to gear 1, and i can't. It stays at Neutral. I kick down to one and then the green Neutral light went away and back. So far I manage to off engine and restart the bike then i'm able to kick down to gear 1. Good thing traffic lights never change. Safe and sound.

 

All these things dont always happen. Probably might happen 1/10 times. Still i think it's dangerous. Anyone experience this before? Is this my gear lever problem or clutch problem?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Could be some issue somewhere but since bike is still rideable I don't really care about it. Like you say it happens rarely, and only if I stop the bike at gear 5 or something and eventually one of the gears will lock on.

 

Thus I make a practise of remembering to smoothly downshift as the bike slows.

 

If I stop the bike from neutral for a short while, chances are that the bike doesn't want to engage 1st until I manually push it forwards slightly... but recently I found engaging 2nd gear then kicking down puts it in first again

[hecter85]

Could be some issue somewhere but since bike is still rideable I don't really care about it. Like you say it happens rarely, and only if I stop the bike at gear 5 or something and eventually one of the gears will lock on.

 

Thus I make a practise of remembering to smoothly downshift as the bike slows.

 

If I stop the bike from neutral for a short while, chances are that the bike doesn't want to engage 1st until I manually push it forwards slightly... but recently I found engaging 2nd gear then kicking down puts it in first again

 

hi kaylan, well, that's what i did, i tried to gear down but gear wont engage, which is why i ended up in whatever gear i was when stopping. For the neutral one, I tried the 2nd gear downshift but it doesn't help.

 

Even though it rarely happens, but when it happens at the most awkward situation, like when you're at a turning pocket or stopping on a slope, i think it's quite awkward leh.

[VidaK]

hi all, recently when i ride, I found myself when i'm stopping at traffic light, i can't kick down to gear 1. I clutch in, and keep depressing the gear lever many times but no change in gear. Then lights change, i have to move off from whatever gear i'm in, which i think is 3rd or 4th gear, dies a few times lo but it give me momentum to continue without changing gear. Safe and Sound. Car never honk me. Probably see my P plate.

 

2nd incident, also when stopping at traffic light, I want to change to gear 1, and i can't. It stays at Neutral. I kick down to one and then the green Neutral light went away and back. So far I manage to off engine and restart the bike then i'm able to kick down to gear 1. Good thing traffic lights never change. Safe and sound.

 

All these things dont always happen. Probably might happen 1/10 times. Still i think it's dangerous. Anyone experience this before? Is this my gear lever problem or clutch problem?

 

ha... I think its probably a minor problem... just that you haven't gotten used to the quirks of your bike

 

what is happening is probably that you "clutch in too much", to the point that you can't change your gears... especially for kicking from neutral to gear 1... if you are stationary, try to change gears at half clutch or 3/4 clutch... see if it helps...

[hamsterwhale]

hi all, recently when i ride, I found myself when i'm stopping at traffic light, i can't kick down to gear 1. I clutch in, and keep depressing the gear lever many times but no change in gear. Then lights change, i have to move off from whatever gear i'm in, which i think is 3rd or 4th gear, dies a few times lo but it give me momentum to continue without changing gear. Safe and Sound. Car never honk me. Probably see my P plate.

 

2nd incident, also when stopping at traffic light, I want to change to gear 1, and i can't. It stays at Neutral. I kick down to one and then the green Neutral light went away and back. So far I manage to off engine and restart the bike then i'm able to kick down to gear 1. Good thing traffic lights never change. Safe and sound.

 

All these things dont always happen. Probably might happen 1/10 times. Still i think it's dangerous. Anyone experience this before? Is this my gear lever problem or clutch problem?

 

this happens to all bike, not only phantom, what vidak mentions below is the cure...

 

 

 

ha... I think its probably a minor problem... just that you haven't gotten used to the quirks of your bike

 

what is happening is probably that you "clutch in too much", to the point that you can't change your gears... especially for kicking from neutral to gear 1... if you are stationary, try to change gears at half clutch or 3/4 clutch... see if it helps...

[hecter85]

this happens to all bike, not only phantom, what vidak mentions below is the cure...

 

oh ok.. will take note..

[EuphoriaDude]

hi pple. my bike when in 6th gear will have a very loud noise. the noise is like when u have not enuff speed in the certain gear. like going to stall engine. but my speed is at 100 liao. do i need to overhaul liao?

[VidaK]

hi pple. my bike when in 6th gear will have a very loud noise. the noise is like when u have not enuff speed in the certain gear. like going to stall engine. but my speed is at 100 liao. do i need to overhaul liao?

 

stall the engine...? but when the engine is loud I can't see why the engine might want to stall...

 

I cannot diagnosis your problem over here, but I'm guessing that your clutch plates are worn out... thats why your engine seems louder than before...

 

still, it is best to bring the bike to a trusted mechanic to have a look...

[EuphoriaDude]

no. i meant the sound of my sixth gear is like for example, u are on third gear but yr speed is only 30km/hr, yr engine will have a sound like yr engine going to stall liao

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

The strange clacking sound may mean damage sustained to the 6th gear or the thing that engages it (dog gear?)

 

Not to worry, send Dr Chong to the rescue!

[isaksson]

hey guys,

 

recently,when i am slowing down my bike,and when the engine brake effect kicks in,there seems to be loud bangs coming from my exhaust.it only happens only like when the engine brake is in effect.i changed my EO 2 weeks ago to Chessa 9000,but this problem surfaced like,3 days ago.any ideas why?

[jtzx]

time to go tune your cub ;D

[VidaK]

hey guys,

 

recently,when i am slowing down my bike,and when the engine brake effect kicks in,there seems to be loud bangs coming from my exhaust.it only happens only like when the engine brake is in effect.i changed my EO 2 weeks ago to Chessa 9000,but this problem surfaced like,3 days ago.any ideas why?

 

it is very likely that your air fuel ratio for your idling is now too rich, hence you would experience backfiring. just adjust your idling air fuel ratio screw on your carburetor a little clockwise (maybe try 1/4 turn) and see if things improve

[isaksson]

ah,i suspected it was the carb tuning at first,but can the ratio change even if i did not touch the carburator during my last EO change?

[VidaK]

ah,i suspected it was the carb tuning at first,but can the ratio change even if i did not touch the carburator during my last EO change?

 

of course... over time it is possible that the screw turned on its own because of the bike's vibrations...

[isaksson]

ah,i see.thanks alot for the tips,i'll probably tinker around with the carb in the morning.hopefully i know what im doing.lol

[VidaK]

ah,i see.thanks alot for the tips,i'll probably tinker around with the carb in the morning.hopefully i know what im doing.lol

 

ok here is idling (pilot) tuning class in condensed form...

 

there should only be two adjustment screws visible from the right side... the one sticking out towards the bottom with a knobby black plastic end that you can adjust with your bare fingers is the throttle stop screw... that adjusts the idling speed. the idling air fuel ratio screw (IAFRS) you are looking for should be flat, bronze in colour and it requires a flat head screwdriver to adjust.

 

turning the IAFRS clockwise makes the idling air fuel ratio richer, while anti-clockwise makes the ratio leaner. too rich = fouled spark plug, too lean = piston gets a hole / piston break off, so err on the side of tuning it rich please.

 

your objective is to tune it to neutral (balanced). it would be balanced when the idling speed is at the highest point. start by turning the IAFRS clockwise 1/4 turn. does the idling seems faster? turn another 1/4 turn clockwise (total 1/2). idling any faster? although I doubt the idling speed would increase for your case since it seems like your bike is running rich at idling...

 

so reset the screw to the position it was at (total 0). and slowly turn 1/4 turn anti-clockwise at a time to hear if the idling increases. and find the positions of the screw when the idling seems to be the highest. if you realise that the idling continues to increase when you have turned the IAFRS so much that it is loose / going to drop off, you would have to change to a smaller pilot jet... if that somehow happens then I will explain further in the future...

 

maybe you will end up feeling that turning the screw anti-clockwise 3/4 turn from 0 and anti-clockwise 1 complete turn have the highest idling speeds, choose the position that is slightly richer. in this case, that would be anti-clockwise 3/4 turn from 0.

 

with that, your idling air fuel ratio is set neutral. your backfiring should be minimal now.

 

however, it is possible that your idling speed is now way too high, so lower it by turning the throttle stop screw anti-clockwise to lower the throttle valve. if the idling is still too high after lowering the throttle valve to its lowest position, then hahaha you would have to buy a smaller pilot jet... but I seriously won't expect that to be required... but if that really happens then I will continue my lecture...

 

[jtzx]

Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

 

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

 

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

 

 

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

 

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

 

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed.

 

 

 

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

 

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

 

 

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

 

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

 

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol.

Solution: Obvious.

 

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

 

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

 

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

 

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

 

 

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

 

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

 

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

 

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

 

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

 

 

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

 

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

 

 

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

 

 

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

 

 

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

 

 

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

 

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

 

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

 

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

 

 

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

 

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

 

 

Problem 13: My exhaust gives have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

 

 

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

 

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

 

 

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

 

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

 

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

 

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

 

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

 

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

 

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

 

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake.

 

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

 

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

[siaoz16]

eh i got a problem with kicking to netural gear. Only can kick to netural when my engine stop. The other gear are fine.

Can someone explain to why like that?

thank you

[jtzx]

trottle alittle then try kicking again. after sometime the gear box abit worn out already. But still can use de..

 

sometime is because of the engine oil u use also..

[Hydher]

eh i got a problem with kicking to netural gear. Only can kick to netural when my engine stop. The other gear are fine.

Can someone explain to why like that?

thank you

 

happened to me before. Try the cheap things first. change eo.check out the reviews on the ta's page