I pump petrol 92 so can u!

[diddy the patient]

Big listed company like that won't want to lie and get sue..they have cleanser blend into their product as claim and it should be good. Again we have ppl of different opinion that its not suitable for their cars or bikes..its all very subjective.

 

:thumb:

[Ah Pek]

You stated by using 92 is not tapping the full potential of S4 which has a fairly conservative compression...is a little misleading.

 

Would appreciate your elabroration on this please..."little misleading" not sure if you understand what I'm trying to say.

[Ah Pek]

:thumb:

 

..lets go pump Caltex together one of these days

[steel_headz]

Can recommend me for mixture of additives tat u everytime practice.. Wat is the ones tat use for cleaning of carbarators and engine?

 

Can explain to me how to do it? Where to get it?

 

Sorry.. to many questions... Still new to S4..

[Ah Pek]

Can recommend me for mixture of additives tat u everytime practice.. Wat is the ones tat use for cleaning of carbarators and engine?

 

Can explain to me how to do it? Where to get it?

 

Sorry.. to many questions... Still new to S4..

 

No worries..how many questions..I'll try and answer them whenI know its reliable thru read up and test usage myself.

 

"cleaning of carbarators "...the best and most effective I come across was "Blue Coral" product but you won't find this particular treatment anymore and I do not know why. Its the one in a black bottle that comes pack in a slivery gold box. Some of the riders in SBF have tried it and all share the same opinion. This was recommended so b4 deciding going for a carbs cleaning and retuned. Also good was their "Petrol Treatment" (red in clear bottle) but can't find anymore..only "Diesl Treatment" but I guess they were the same thing. Anyway..if you go CareFour, Giant or NTUC and some kiosk...you may still find some around.

 

Green oil makes engine runs much smoother , better fc (especially in small bike..I got 1.2 km/ltr extra from S4) and helps cleanse off carbons due to better combustion. Smoother engine start evrytime as its premixed with fuel..like as with 2T in two stroke bike where the overnite dried cylinder gets lube when you crank start.

 

The other is UR04 now rebranded to STr2002 or something like that..its 75% Palm Olien oil mixes with som otherbiogradle chemical. Very good for power respond performance.

 

As for eo treatment for engine gear box and cycliner sleevs...it depends on what you want..better vicosity or treatment for wear and tear? Increasing vicosity gets you a quieter engine, protection as in better cushioning between metal contact and better heat handling. Metal conditioner sort of puts back what the years takes out from metal in contact use. It a very slippery flim between metal contact and thus eliminates friction when they in motion against each other. X-1R is the only one I found proven for my belief and uses.

[1Seth1]

pek, you continue to wow me.. you really live up to ur nick name "walking encyclopedia" man

[diddy the patient]

..lets go pump Caltex together one of these days

 

Tried techron 95 just now.... much better than Esso petrol

[hachi]

Need not be confused..just used at least what the manual say..92 and above. If there are better grade for a better combustion and resulting in cleaner engine and better performance...go for 95 to 98...throw in more rons if you want and see your rpm go faster..reaching top speed of your bike at the shortest possible time depending on your bike conditions.

 

Well maybe we can start from here...

Throw more ron if I wanna see my rpm go faster...Can enlighten mi on this...By lighten engine internals, crank weight...well the rpm may shoot up faster...By pumping better grades...?? Can enlighten me on this....??

For example: Same S4 using 92 and 98...Which will be faster...??

 

If 98 was the case, why petrol cartels dont support this claim and comes out with data that shown noticeable improvement....I am sure they will be most happy to do so..

I am sure petrol head like mi at least...Wont hesitate to pump better grades..

[hachi]

Would appreciate your elabroration on this please..."little misleading" not sure if you understand what I'm trying to say.

 

Hmm....

Cos you mentioned tapping full potential...And comes some subjective remarks that ask most to shy from lower grade petrol...

 

What kinda of potential are you talking about? Power development wise???

Any technical explanation or data to back up???

For example:

Same S4...Using 92=xxbhp

Using 98=xxbhp??

Something like that...

Cos this TS just wanna share how 92 wont affect performance...But you beg to diff...

Well, we all have something to share...Friendly discussion....hee hee

[Ah Pek]

pek, you continue to wow me.. you really live up to ur nick name "walking encyclopedia" man

 

Thank u!..very soon "runningaway S4pedia"

[Ah Pek]

Hmm....

Cos you mentioned tapping full potential...And comes some subjective remarks that ask most to shy from lower grade petrol...

 

What kinda of potential are you talking about? Power development wise???

Any technical explanation or data to back up???

For example:

Same S4...Using 92=xxbhp

Using 98=xxbhp??

Something like that...

Cos this TS just wanna share how 92 wont affect performance...But you beg to diff...

Well, we all have something to share...Friendly discussion....hee hee

 

Never mind...you are right.

[Ah Pek]

Well maybe we can start from here...

Throw more ron if I wanna see my rpm go faster...Can enlighten mi on this...By lighten engine internals, crank weight...well the rpm may shoot up faster...By pumping better grades...?? Can enlighten me on this....??

For example: Same S4 using 92 and 98...Which will be faster...??

 

If 98 was the case, why petrol cartels dont support this claim and comes out with data that shown noticeable improvement....I am sure they will be most happy to do so..

I am sure petrol head like mi at least...Wont hesitate to pump better grades..

 

Never mind..you are right

[1Seth1]

talking about petrol.. you guys wanna go up for petrol tonight?

[newcomer]

i say go for 92. i tot one of the reasons they come up with 95 or 98 is because it burns cleaner.

[Ah Pek]

i say go for 92. i tot one of the reasons they come up with 95 or 98 is because it burns cleaner.

 

Yah...one of the reason and others, thus your valves etc..thus performs better and rate of detonation is faster so better performance and better for your engine condition. Otherwise, if 92 is that great..all the major oil company might as well stay blending 92 only. Long term use you will know.

[hachi]

Honda actually risk their reputation by stating in the manual used only unleaded...One of the most reliable engine in the world...Maybe they can employ some smart guy in SG as their chief engineer...Start by using racing fuel >100 octane petrol..

One recommendation is to buy 110 or 101 octane level racing fuel selling at autobac...

5 gallon only $90 or so....You know for long term use...

Maybe we should stop going to petrol station for fuel since >98 octane burns so much cleaner....

 

Petrol station offer different grade cus there are different requirement of vehicles out there...Some higher performance than others which needed higher octane that was needed for their compression that offer more power in return...

 

[Ah Pek]

Honda actually risk their reputation by stating in the manual used only unleaded...One of the most reliable engine in the world...Maybe they can employ some smart guy in SG as their chief engineer...Start by using racing fuel >100 octane petrol..

One recommendation is to buy 110 or 101 octane level racing fuel selling at autobac...

5 gallon only $90 or so....You know for long term use...

Maybe we should stop going to petrol station for fuel since >98 octane burns so much cleaner....

 

Petrol station offer different grade cus there are different requirement of vehicles out there...Some higher performance than others which needed higher octane that was needed for their compression that offer more power in return...

 

 

Oh yah mannn!...I think they should..how come they never tot of that?..there are so many qualified ppl here already.

[diddy the patient]

92 makes the carburator dirty....

[Ah Pek]

92 makes the carburator dirty....

 

Needless to say..totally agreed...but bo_pian leh..got expert here says good leh. I only use 92 to premix for cleansing once in a while to save a few cents

[diddy the patient]

Needless to say..totally agreed...but bo_pian leh..got expert here says good leh. I only use 92 to premix for cleansing once in a while to save a few cents

 

like that ok lah..... now i beginning to have confident in caltex techron95

[steel_headz]

No worries..how many questions..I'll try and answer them whenI know its reliable thru read up and test usage myself.

 

"cleaning of carbarators "...the best and most effective I come across was "Blue Coral" product but you won't find this particular treatment anymore and I do not know why. Its the one in a black bottle that comes pack in a slivery gold box. Some of the riders in SBF have tried it and all share the same opinion. This was recommended so b4 deciding going for a carbs cleaning and retuned. Also good was their "Petrol Treatment" (red in clear bottle) but can't find anymore..only "Diesl Treatment" but I guess they were the same thing. Anyway..if you go CareFour, Giant or NTUC and some kiosk...you may still find some around.

 

Green oil makes engine runs much smoother , better fc (especially in small bike..I got 1.2 km/ltr extra from S4) and helps cleanse off carbons due to better combustion. Smoother engine start evrytime as its premixed with fuel..like as with 2T in two stroke bike where the overnite dried cylinder gets lube when you crank start.

 

The other is UR04 now rebranded to STr2002 or something like that..its 75% Palm Olien oil mixes with som otherbiogradle chemical. Very good for power respond performance.

 

As for eo treatment for engine gear box and cycliner sleevs...it depends on what you want..better vicosity or treatment for wear and tear? Increasing vicosity gets you a quieter engine, protection as in better cushioning between metal contact and better heat handling. Metal conditioner sort of puts back what the years takes out from metal in contact use. It a very slippery flim between metal contact and thus eliminates friction when they in motion against each other. X-1R is the only one I found proven for my belief and uses.

 

 

So now for EO treatment... there's no brand tat u hv just said above...

[newcomer]

You might want to read this

 

High Octane Fuel - Do You Really Need the "Good "Stuff?

 

or:

 

You Really Can Fool Some of the People All of the Time

 

 

The swami has been hearing a lot of nonsense around the gas pumps these days. People are tanking up with the "good" stuff because the commercials imply that it's better for their engine. When the oil companies use superlatives like "Super", "Extra" and "High"...well it must be better, right? And of course they wouldn't be charging $0.10 - $0.20 more unless they were putting some really good stuff in there, right? Sorry...NOT!

 

"High Octane" is not synonymous with "good" or "better", and does not mean that it is better for your engine! And the chances are pretty good you don’t need high octane fuel in your scooter.

 

High-octane fuels only become necessary when your engine has a high compression ratio. It’s a very long and complicated story…that the swami will make short.

 

First important fact that you must accept:

 

All gasoline, regardless of its’ octane rating, have pretty much the same amount of energy per gallon. What!!! "Sacrilege" you say? Well, actually, some higher-octane fuels have a few LESS percent energy per gallon…so as not to argue over this small point, for the sake of this discussion we will all agree that the automotive gasoline that you buy at the pump, regardless of octane rating, has the same amount of potential energy.

 

Second important fact that you must accept:

 

Octane is NOT a measure of power but of the fuels’ resistance to ignition from heat. A higher-octane fuel, under identical combustion chamber conditions, will burn slower.

 

How can this be? If all of the above is true, how do we get more power out of high octane gasoline? We do, don’t we?

 

Well…yes we do. Here’s how:

 

But first you must understand "heat of compression". There is a 2,000 year old fire starting device that still amazes the swami. A length of bamboo was hollowed out leaving one end capped. A stick, about the same length as the bamboo, was whittled down until it fit snugly into the bamboo cylinder. A bit of dried grass or wood shavings were placed in the bottom of the bamboo cylinder and the snugly fitting stick was violently rammed down the bamboo tube. The heat generated from rapidly compressing the air in the tube was sufficient to ignite the tinder.

 

The same thing can happen in the cylinder of an engine. The piston, quickly squeezing the fuel/air mixture into a small space, can generate enough heat of compression to ignite the fuel well before the spark plug fires, with unpleasant results. If the fuel prematurely ignites while the piston is on its way up, the burning of the fuel, in conjunction with the rising piston, creates even more pressure, resulting in a violent explosion. This explosion is equivalent to hitting the top of the piston with a very large hammer. If you want to be able to see through the top of your piston, ignore those sounds that are usually called: "pre-ignition", "ping" or "engine knock". Trust me on this one; in his reckless youth, using this method, the swami turned a few pistons into paper weights.

 

What we really want is a very rapid burn of the fuel, not an explosion. And we want the burning of the fuel to take place while the piston is in a better position to convert this pressure into productive work, like on its way down. Think of this burning as a very fast "push" on the top of the piston. Despite the violent noises you hear from some exhaust systems, it really is a rapid push on the top of the piston making the crankshaft go around, not explosions.

 

So that we can ignite the fuel at exactly the right time with the spark plug, instead of from the heat of compression, they put stuff into gasoline to keep it from igniting prematurely. The more resistant the fuel is to ignition from the heat of compression, the higher its octane rating.

 

Are you with me so far?

 

Higher compression ratios = higher combustion chamber pressures = higher heat… and it is with these higher combustion chamber temperatures that the magic happens.

 

At higher temperatures the fuel is burned more efficiently. So, while it’s true that the higher-octane fuel does not posses any more energy than low octane fuel, the increased octane allows the extraction of more of the potential energy that has always been there. Conversely, lower compression ration engines utilize a little less of the fuel energy potential (2-4% reduction) but there is also less heat generated in the combustion process.

 

So how do you know if you need high-octane fuel? The swami suggests you look in the owners’ manual! Manufacturers really do want you to get the maximum efficiency out of your engine. They do their best to give a good balance between horsepower and engine life. It’s in their best interests to do so.

 

There is ABSOLUTELY NO BENEFIT to using a higher octane than your engine needs. The only benefit is increased profits to the oil companies that have cleverly convinced some of the public that their new "Super-Duper, Premium-High-Test, Clean-Burning, Used-By-Famous-Racing-Types-All-Around-The-World, Extra-Detergent-Laden-Keep-Your-Pipes-Clean, Extra-High-Octane" fuel is your engines’ best friend. The swami is telling you the truth, don’t listen to that talking cartoon car.

 

The swami hears people insisting that they got better mileage, better acceleration, and less dental plaque by switching to a high-octane fuel. The swami reminds these people that in every pharmacy is a special miracle pill that is often prescribed by doctors, it works wonders because people believe that it works wonders; it’s called a "placebo". The swami warns: never confuse faith with physics!

 

If you are getting pinging or knocking with what should be the correct octane for your engine, start by checking the ignition timing, also check that the spark plug is the correct heat range. For 2-strokes, check for excessive carbon build-up on the top of the piston, the carbon takes up space and increases the compression ratio.

 

If all is well and correct, and you still are getting knocking, then try the next higher octane. You won’t go faster, you won’t go farther, but you will prevent an unsightly hole in your piston.

 

This subject is a whole lot more complicated than the swami wants to bother with. If you are curious to know more, put some of these words into your search engine and enjoy the education:

 

Antiknock Index

 

Octane

 

Stoichiometric Combustion

 

Thermal Efficiency

 

Flame Front

 

Highest Useful Compression Ratio

 

Compression Ratio

 

Placebo

 

 

or this:

http://dnr.louisiana.gov/sec/execdiv/techasmt/ecep/trans/b/b.htm

[diddy the patient]

So now for EO treatment... there's no brand tat u hv just said above...

 

now difficult lahhh... i used to buy ZX-1, but price too xpensive

[Ah Pek]

So now for EO treatment... there's no brand tat u hv just said above...

 

If you are referring to eo treatment as in vicosity enhancement..I uses STP or Blue Coral. There are a few other branded names but not marketer here. They are just about all the same and I choose STP because they have been on the market in the US for years..even when I started riding 30s+ ago.

 

Oil treatment for eo as in teal protection..X-1R.

[1Seth1]

Personally i like petronas, just that its a little far to get..

but seriously, for its price, decently clean fuel, has power and FC pretty good.

not a bad deal for that price, just that its troublesome to get some.