[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[kano]

Ans to item 2: Your iginition switch key slot and guide is pretty worn overtime liao..about time to change..about $85 but keep the key for your seat lock and fuel cap.

 

Ans to item 3: Its can be just about anything up front. Could be fork oil unlevel due to prolong usage. Tyre pressure incorrect or uneven wear and tear of front tyre.

 

To check if ur cone bearing is koyak..sit on the bike, move the bike forward and brake suddenly..see if the handle bar 'rocks' forward with a soft mild knoncking sound. Otherwise, have the front wheel up, grab the two lower section of your front fork and see if it moves when you push and pull. Also rotate the front wheel and then touch the lower fork section to feel for vibration..if their is, your axle bearing oso koyak liao.

 

Last but not least, if your bike had an accident before, it could be your pair of fork in out of alignment status. Only a good mech trained naked eys can tell or by rotating the front wheel. If this is the case, the pair of fork can be send for machine press.

 

Good luck.

 

Hi Ah Pek,

Thanks for your reply.

I already went to the bike shop , told them the problem, lucky there's one month warranty since I bought from them, they told me regarding the handle lock, they have to disassemble the front fork, and at the same time check the steering cone.

But due to time constraint, I will be there on saturday.

 

Please advice a newbie like me to tell the mechanic what to check for since there's one month warranty for all parts, unlike some shop which cover warranty only the engine.

This is a good time to clear my doubts with the mechanic.

 

Thanks Ah Pek, I appreciate your help.

[Ah Pek]

Hi Ah Pek,

Thanks for your reply.

I already went to the bike shop , told them the problem, lucky there's one month warranty since I bought from them, they told me regarding the handle lock, they have to disassemble the front fork, and at the same time check the steering cone.

But due to time constraint, I will be there on saturday.

 

Please advice a newbie like me to tell the mechanic what to check for since there's one month warranty for all parts, unlike some shop which cover warranty only the engine.

This is a good time to clear my doubts with the mechanic.

 

Thanks Ah Pek, I appreciate your help.

 

Don't understand why they have to disassemble the front fork unless there is something else like knocking the handle locking ledge wedge stalk back in a lignment with the hole where it ledges in. From your description, I can only tell that your iginition switch is worn and it does not actuate the slot that turn to another level to move the locking wedge stalk (stem) to slide into the locking hole.

 

Most important thing is your scoolant system. When engine is hot and happened daily..its sign of flow blockage and can cause engine block to crack. Can be anything from thermostat not opening, coolant pump faulty or restricted coolant volume flow caused by rust formation in the coolant tubing..which is caused by havinh water used in coolant. Oso check if the coolant reserve tank coolant colour is right..should not be plain or rusty brownish. If they add water..make sure its distilled water.

 

The next few days..ride the bike hard and see if any sign of eo leakage on engine block and carbs coupling...could be blown gasket. Any sign of wobbles or mild ding-dong fish tailing (side of weak back suspension..check for oil leaks) while taking bend with load at the back.

 

These are so far I can suggest.

[love_ivy]

...................

Edited May 30, 2014 by love_ivy

[Nabil Dopey]

bro...

i heard that boon siew sells clutch plate?

is it true?

or anyone knws where is cheap?

[Ah Pek]

bro...

i heard that boon siew sells clutch plate?

is it true?

or anyone knws where is cheap?

 

Are you installing it yourself?....better to let mototiam does everything for you. Most mototiam can do and have the parts, don't have they would get it for you..anyway, $11.00 a piece..you need 6 pcs.

[Ah Pek]

May I know S4 5 piont grounding for ?

 

Point grounding are usually done for cars..not on bikes. Its just better then nothing on your bike.

Edited September 4, 2009 by Ah Pek

[love_ivy]

...............

Edited May 30, 2014 by love_ivy

[love_ivy]

Point grounding are usually done for cars..not on bikes. Its just better then nothiong on your bike.

 

thanks bro....

[kano]

Don't understand why they have to disassemble the front fork unless there is something else like knocking the handle locking ledge wedge stalk back in a lignment with the hole where it ledges in. From your description, I can only tell that your iginition switch is worn and it does not actuate the slot that turn to another level to move the locking wedge stalk (stem) to slide into the locking hole.

 

Most important thing is your scoolant system. When engine is hot and happened daily..its sign of flow blockage and can cause engine block to crack. Can be anything from thermostat not opening, coolant pump faulty or restricted coolant volume flow caused by rust formation in the coolant tubing..which is caused by havinh water used in coolant. Oso check if the coolant reserve tank coolant colour is right..should not be plain or rusty brownish. If they add water..make sure its distilled water.

 

The next few days..ride the bike hard and see if any sign of eo leakage on engine block and carbs coupling...could be blown gasket. Any sign of wobbles or mild ding-dong fish tailing (side of weak back suspension..check for oil leaks) while taking bend with load at the back.

 

These are so far I can suggest.

 

Thanks for your suggestion.

 

I just realise this morning there's EO leakage on the engine, already sent to bike shop for them to get it fix. Gonna collect the bike tommorow. Anyone roughly know how much does it normally cost to change the gasket and the labour cost?

[Nabil Dopey]

Are you installing it yourself?....better to let mototiam does everything for you. Most mototiam can do and have the parts, don't have they would get it for you..anyway, $11.00 a piece..you need 6 pcs.

 

bro...$11...can i knw where?

isit at boon siew?

[Ah Pek]

bro...$11...can i knw where?

isit at boon siew?

 

Ordinary bike shop will do, just asked them. Never go to Boob Siew unless you got xtra $s to fork out and have a peace of mind. They are more expensive even if u are Honda owner biker member (have to join) which have further discount. No harm asking around. With the recent increase in yen, you may not find this price anymore.

Edited September 5, 2009 by Ah Pek

[oscar23]

Wooooooo didnt know tat

[sky23]

no one done the header b4... btw by using rear sprocket 46t will it stress ur engine...

[Nabil Dopey]

Ordinary bike shop will do, just asked them. Never go to Boob Siew unless you got xtra $s to fork out and have a peace of mind. They are more expensive even if u are Honda owner biker member (have to join) which have further discount. No harm asking around. With the recent increase in yen, you may not find this price anymore.

 

u mean changing clutch plate is ard $100+?

i ask 1 shop he charge me $220...

ex?

[Ah Pek]

u mean changing clutch plate is ard $100+?

i ask 1 shop he charge me $220...

ex?

 

I only mentioned that each clutch plate is $11..so for 6 pcs, parts cost is $66...give and take assuming nothing else gone bad like clutch housing etc..yah..should be around there below $200 including new gaskets. Eo may have to be replaced but can oso be reused but have to inform the mech. Can always arrange it for you.

Edited September 7, 2009 by Ah Pek

[Mizarahi]

Just realised that my 2nd hand exhaust comes w an operated Honda end-can. (Haha. I newbie donno anything.)

 

I would like to find out is there anyway to reduce the sound from the muffler?

Someone recommend me to stuff fibre in. Is that recommended? How to do it har?

Just buy those aircon filter and stuff from the rear of the muffler issit?

 

Thanks.

[Ah Pek]

Just realised that my 2nd hand exhaust comes w an operated Honda end-can. (Haha. I newbie donno anything.)

 

I would like to find out is there anyway to reduce the sound from the muffler?

Someone recommend me to stuff fibre in. Is that recommended? How to do it har?

Just buy those aircon filter and stuff from the rear of the muffler issit?

 

Thanks.

 

Yes, you've to use exhaust mesh to muffler it. In actual stock exhaust design, these mesh are carefully cater for maximum breathe out so what you are doing will be a guess work as to how much to used.

 

No..you cannot use the aircon type...probably will melt and form up covering most of the siliencer holes and internal can mesh holes on its wall. I remember seeing these mesh (if I'm not wrong, it's somesort of a steel fibre mesh made for wrapping) selling in packets at Motoworld..drop by and check it out..not cheap as they are lightly steel and can withstand extreme heat.

 

Good luck.

Edited September 8, 2009 by Ah Pek

[mcs4]

(Q) i have a spec3 model 2006 with a 6k mileage which i bought with a three point grounding wiring, then i placed a switch for the headlamps so its not always on when i use it although i know its suppose to be on always since it was made that way. then, i placed an LED voltmeter to monitor whether my rectifier is working or charging properly, i noticed that when the headlamps switch is OFF is voltmeter registers a green light which is around 12.5V then when i turn the switch ON at idle its yellow which means its either its over or under charging. but when at a certain speed it turns green and at high speed it goes back to yellow. is this normal? i also noticed that my front seat its getting hot. there was also a time when my headlamps is ON and i turn ON the FLASHER OR HAZARD LIGHTS the LED VOLTMETER was giving me a flashing red and the front seat is really hot. when i turn them OFF its ok again. mr. moderator do you think that the 3 point grounding in my bike causing such problem? or do i need to replace my voltage rectifier? i am so concern about the portion when my seat is getting hot and i think its no longer normal. can you please help me out? thank you

[Ah Pek]

(Q) i have a spec3 model 2006 with a 6k mileage which i bought with a three point grounding wiring, then i placed a switch for the headlamps so its not always on when i use it although i know its suppose to be on always since it was made that way. then, i placed an LED voltmeter to monitor whether my rectifier is working or charging properly, i noticed that when the headlamps switch is OFF is voltmeter registers a green light which is around 12.5V then when i turn the switch ON at idle its yellow which means its either its over or under charging. but when at a certain speed it turns green and at high speed it goes back to yellow. is this normal? i also noticed that my front seat its getting hot. there was also a time when my headlamps is ON and i turn ON the FLASHER OR HAZARD LIGHTS the LED VOLTMETER was giving me a flashing red and the front seat is really hot. when i turn them OFF its ok again. mr. moderator do you think that the 3 point grounding in my bike causing such problem? or do i need to replace my voltage rectifier? i am so concern about the portion when my seat is getting hot and i think its no longer normal. can you please help me out? thank you

 

This is VERY SERIOUS!!!

 

Your seat where it gets hot near your balls is showing signthat your battery is getting over loaded..its either going to get fried real good and along with your rectifier. It has nothing to do with your three point grounding..if I were you, first thing I would do is to take off that headlamp manual cut-off switch that you did to prevent any further damages or your balls blow off.

 

Not sure what switch you used or for the matter, the type of wires used oso..a switch and type of wires to handle a high current load H4(halogen) bulb is not just any nice looking lighted or micro swtich that you fancy and just installed. In electrical laod handling..there are rules to follow or you end up having electrical fire soon..and electrical fire is not somthing you can put off with water or any genenic fire extinguisher.

 

Talking about your 3 point grounding from previous onwer...what you have is totally uselesss...even you have 5 to 6 or even 10 points grounding. Bikes don't need point groundings like cars do. You want to know more..go to the non-vtec forum and search for my post on it or drop by casually over coffee at Teck Ghee Quare Kopetiam on a Sunday morning...I will feed you up with it and you understand why and how things works.

 

Ok..after reading this and b4 your next ride..revert to original status of your bike..that's, remove that headlamp manual cut-off swtich of yours. If you want me to look at it...pm me for my contact.

[pohheng]

anyone bro here know how to replace the speedo meter lights for spec3? felt like charging to the T10 LED brand *alpha, heard from others is super bright. can any old birds guide me how to DIY to replace it?

[Mizarahi]

Yes, you've to use exhaust mesh to muffler it. In actual stock exhaust design, these mesh are carefully cater for maximum breathe out so what you are doing will be a guess work as to how much to used.

 

No..you can use the aircon type...probably will melt and form up covering most of the siliencer holes and internal can mesh holes on its wall. I remember seeing these mesh (if I'm not wrong, it's somesort of a steel fibre mesh made for wrapping) selling in packets at Motoworld..drop by and check it out..not cheap as they are lightly steel and can withstand extreme heat.

 

Good luck.

 

Thank you ah pek. You the best.

[Ah Pek]

Thank you ah pek. You the best.

 

LOL!...no lah..just happened to know all this. Btw..just notice that there is a typo error, my apology..should be "cannot" not "can" with regards to use of air-con type.

[steel_headz]

Ah pek...

 

Ask u...

 

Is there a certain mileage where we need to replace the parts like rectifier, clutch plates?

 

(Some more got wat?)

[Ah Pek]

Ah pek...

 

Ask u...

 

Is there a certain mileage where we need to replace the parts like rectifier, clutch plates?

 

(Some more got wat?)

 

No..things that wears out from usage like brake pads, clutch cable, clutch paltes, rotor disk, axle bearings, cone bearings, chain and sprockets etc...it all depend on each individual..from riding style to load laden etc.

 

Take clutch for example..if a rider race and does half clutching often.the plates will wear out faster than a norm rider..anotehr example is that, say for city riding..braking too often due to start/stop traffics, there is a lot of stress on the cone bearings and due to rocking back fore, it wear off faster than those thta travels more on highways.

 

As for electrical type components like rectifier, battery and magneto coil..any installation of added electrical load does affect their reliability. For the battery..there are the ones that last 4-5 years and those that 1-1.5 years type oso..the difference is cost. The more expensive ones provide more stable current delivery thus provide reliability.

 

In summary..there is no fixed "life span" but there is a recommended period for "periodic checks" on this components

[kano]

Sometimes when I start to move off,

when I open throttle, bike like no power like that

the power start to kick in after a few seconds,

why?

Need to service and tune the carburator?