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Posted
Haha... sounds like a big problem. Was yours new?

 

At Bike tech - does it include installation and LTA certification etc?

 

Will check out with them. THnx dudes

edmund , no matter how much we meddle , tamper , experiment and modify our bikes , we wunt b able to achieve the top speed we desire for .. Coz of our freakin cdi ... Theres some retardation guin on ...

Be humble on the road at all times coz u'll neva noe wen u need any rider's help...

Posted
eluw guyz.... wen u ppl goin 2 ve d next mit up?

 

every fri some of us are at mosi cafe @ Haji lane

Oct 2002 - PPL

19 Sept 2005 - 2B

18 Sept 2007 - 2A

20 July 2010 - 2

 

Oct 2005 - present: Aprilia RS 125

Oct 16 2010 - Feb 2011: Honda CBR 600 RR

Apr 08 2011: Ducati Monster 620

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs099.snc3/16635_162719989997_751319997_2733440_6167145_n.jpg

Posted
You mean you don't know? It's ongoing right now! DIY/kopi/Russian Vodka session!

 

GTG...

 

LOL... Thank for your help today Law..

 

Had a great time this afternoon during our DIY.

 

=)

Vi Veri Veniversum Vivus Vici - By the power of truth, I, while living, have conquered the universe.. - Faust

Beneath this mask, there is more than flesh. Beneath this mask, there is an idea, and ideas, are bulletproof - V

Safe? Definately. Not necessarily slow, but safe.. - Seraph Tan

Posted

Quote:

Originally Posted by パトリック

Yo! whr to get d motul 2t ah? I'm using Pirelli Diablo Rosso, veri gd grip on bth wet n dry

 

Pirelli Diablo is another good tire to recommend. Not bad ah, you guys all using kickass tires... No wonder you all love playing on the street. The grippy feeling is too

 

Aiya, still running in, how good oso no use, max speed 80km/h and rpm until 6k nia, hiaz!

Posted
edmund , no matter how much we meddle , tamper , experiment and modify our bikes , we wunt b able to achieve the top speed we desire for .. Coz of our freakin cdi ... Theres some retardation guin on ...

 

Hi Wan,

 

Can your bike maintain revs above 10,000k for long or it drops down slowly?

 

Before i installed my exhaust, i had that problem, hopefully the new exhaust fixes things. Am quite irritated now.

 

What have you done to your bike so far? Are the improvements substantial?

 

Over the last 2 weeks, i did the following:

- New power valve, and valve motor

- Bigger carbs

- Removed cdi restrictor

- New exhaust

- Airbox snorkel (to be picked up from Edwin)

 

Hopefull all will be welll when i am free to go and pick up my motorbike!! Cant wait for it to operate "trouble free" again

 

Edmund

Posted

aiyahh so much trouble for a restricted bike.sell away ur 08-09-10-11---20 restricted bikes n get pre 06 models unrestricted :cheeky:

Oct 2002 - PPL

19 Sept 2005 - 2B

18 Sept 2007 - 2A

20 July 2010 - 2

 

Oct 2005 - present: Aprilia RS 125

Oct 16 2010 - Feb 2011: Honda CBR 600 RR

Apr 08 2011: Ducati Monster 620

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs099.snc3/16635_162719989997_751319997_2733440_6167145_n.jpg

Posted
Yes.

 

The knob on the clutch lever is merely used for fine-tuning or tightening the cable on the fly after extensive use stretches the cable.

 

If you need a big adjustment, use the special wrench to loosen the nut on the side of the clutch housing.

 

 

 

DIY will commence at 3pm. Am waiting for my bike to get its new tires fitted. Even if I dont get my bike back by then, I still have plenty of work cut out for me to DIY my 3 bicycles.

 

Bring yag along. I'd like to buy him lunch.

 

 

 

Could also be a defective fuel valve in the carb. The valve should cut off fuel flow when the fuel level in the float bowl reaches a preset level, but if the valve is defective, it allows the fuel to fill the bowl up beyond the overflow level.

 

i'm not exactly sure what i did. but after i took out the carb to see where the leak is coming from. the carb actually stopped leaking after that.

 

btw, anyone experienced problems pushing the bike engaged in 1st gear?

i had a hard time pushing it as compared to it in neutral gear.

i'm guessing the clutch plates or pressure plate is causing it.

 

enlighten me please. (:

Riding a race bike is an art - a thing that you do because you feel something inside.

Posted
You mean you don't know? It's ongoing right now! DIY/kopi/Russian Vodka session!

 

GTG...

 

 

Ahakz..... sowie ler, hard tym 2 online this dae... Hmm.... Fridae eh , otey try to mke myslf available.... ahakzzz..... Vroom Vroom .....

Posted
I got my arrow at First Motor. 750 i think. Picking up later today or tomorrow.

 

Edwin aka "xxes123" also has a new Gianelli for sale. Suggest you contact him if you interested.

 

My 0.02 is dont do anything to your bike if uncessary. Keep it stock. I was happy with my bike before but decided to be greedy and go for more power.

 

My quest to derestrict my bike over the last 2 weeks have proven to be more challenging (ie irrtating) and expensive than i expected. Hopefully all will be finalized and done by today.

 

hey edmund, saw ur bike done up redy at FM.. think u need to change ur tyres too.. hahaha.

dont forget to bring back ur stock pipe huh.. :cheeky:

seeya at PG soon! mayb d nxt trackday?

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l95/mdizzat/06-.jpg
Posted
i'm not exactly sure what i did. but after i took out the carb to see where the leak is coming from. the carb actually stopped leaking after that.

 

btw, anyone experienced problems pushing the bike engaged in 1st gear?

i had a hard time pushing it as compared to it in neutral gear.

i'm guessing the clutch plates or pressure plate is causing it.

 

enlighten me please. (:

 

heh heh... Funnily enough, that happens to me a lot. Quite often I take things apart to investigate a problem and end up making the problem go away.

 

Might just be a misaligned gasket between the mating surfaces of the top and bottom half of the float bowl. Or a loose bolt.

 

In any case, problem solved, so don't fret!

 

I don't get your pushing of bike in 1st gear though. Are you trying to push start your bike?

 

In neutral, the gears are not engaged, hence easy to push. In 1st gear, the gears are engaged, and the resistance that you feel is resistance against your piston in its upward compression stroke.

Believe nothing you hear; and only half of what you see.

Do or do not; there is no 'try'.

 

http://www.themuser.com/forum/index.php

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/lacrimosae/Aprilia/siggiecollage.jpg

Posted
heh heh... Funnily enough, that happens to me a lot. Quite often I take things apart to investigate a problem and end up making the problem go away.

 

Might just be a misaligned gasket between the mating surfaces of the top and bottom half of the float bowl. Or a loose bolt.

 

In any case, problem solved, so don't fret!

 

I don't get your pushing of bike in 1st gear though. Are you trying to push start your bike?

 

In neutral, the gears are not engaged, hence easy to push. In 1st gear, the gears are engaged, and the resistance that you feel is resistance against your piston in its upward compression stroke.

 

Law,

 

I think what he means is when the bike is engaged in 1st gear with the clutch pulled.

 

=p

Vi Veri Veniversum Vivus Vici - By the power of truth, I, while living, have conquered the universe.. - Faust

Beneath this mask, there is more than flesh. Beneath this mask, there is an idea, and ideas, are bulletproof - V

Safe? Definately. Not necessarily slow, but safe.. - Seraph Tan

Posted
heh heh... Funnily enough, that happens to me a lot. Quite often I take things apart to investigate a problem and end up making the problem go away.

 

Might just be a misaligned gasket between the mating surfaces of the top and bottom half of the float bowl. Or a loose bolt.

 

In any case, problem solved, so don't fret!

 

I don't get your pushing of bike in 1st gear though. Are you trying to push start your bike?

 

In neutral, the gears are not engaged, hence easy to push. In 1st gear, the gears are engaged, and the resistance that you feel is resistance against your piston in its upward compression stroke.

 

I think it's still a problem with the carb. hahah.

The carb was somehow still leaking abit, but not til the whole floor was wet this time round.

 

Realised the leak came from the excess tube, and I checked online.

getting a result whereby my float was set too high.

 

Went ahead to try adjusting the float level, I had no idea how exactly to do it. Somehow got it to work, tried around my MSCP a few rounds.

Throttle and engine braking was fine, but a weird sound came from the back.

I'm thinking it's the rear wheel bearings or the chain that made the sound. (chain's kinda loose)

 

Tried again 2 hours later:

Bike started on first try. But after I changed to 1st gear, the engine stalled.

Couldn't start after that. No more leakage from what I could evaluate.

Most probably I did the opposite of what was the original problem. :cheeky:

 

By the way, I was suspecting my clutch to have some problem. That's why I was asking about the gears thingy.

Had been pushing starting my bike for 2 months while my starter was flooded.

Would throwing the clutch often spoil my clutch system?

 

Thanks alot Lawrence. :cheers:

Riding a race bike is an art - a thing that you do because you feel something inside.

Posted
Law,

 

I think what he means is when the bike is engaged in 1st gear with the clutch pulled.

 

=p

 

YEAH! I forgot to mention that part. MY BAD.

Riding a race bike is an art - a thing that you do because you feel something inside.

Posted (edited)

Realised the leak came from the excess tube, and I checked online.

getting a result whereby my float was set too high.

 

Went ahead to try adjusting the float level, I had no idea how exactly to do it. Somehow got it to work, tried around my MSCP a few rounds.

Throttle and engine braking was fine, but a weird sound came from the back.

I'm thinking it's the rear wheel bearings or the chain that made the sound. (chain's kinda loose)

 

Tried again 2 hours later:

Bike started on first try. But after I changed to 1st gear, the engine stalled.

Couldn't start after that. No more leakage from what I could evaluate.

Most probably I did the opposite of what was the original problem. :cheeky:

 

By the way, I was suspecting my clutch to have some problem. That's why I was asking about the gears thingy.

Had been pushing starting my bike for 2 months while my starter was flooded.

Would throwing the clutch often spoil my clutch system?

 

I'd have advised you against changing the float height, but I think I'm too late for that!

 

Changing the float height alters your fuel mixture. Bringing the float level lower will kill the overflow issue, but will lean your fuel mixture - means insufficient petrol into the engine for combustion. Might explain the stalling.

 

Also, it is important to note that an overflow issue is not a problem, but a symptom of a problem. Like how a fever is not really an illness, its a symptom of a bigger problem, usually an infection somewhere.

 

The overflow might have been caused by incorrect float height, but more likely a defective fuel valve (looks like a sharp orange-rubber tipped brass bullet with a spring switch on the other end), which is failing to cut fuel flow when float reaches preset overflow height.

 

I hope you measured the float height before making the changes. If you did, just adjust the float to the original height and monitor the situation. If leak continues, might need to change fuel valve. If you didn't note the height, check the Dellorto online manual for the default height and reset it. Then monitor.

 

Float height affects the fuel mixture, so if possible, try to leave that alone. Unless you are sure your float height has been altered before.

 

As for your clutch, it's built for a specific purpose, and when subjected to abuse outside of it's design specifications, it's hard to say whether it can hold up to that abuse or succumbs. I doubt our clutches were built to be 'thrown', so my opinion would be that of if you ride it hard, be prepared to replace consumables like brake pads, clutch plates, bearings, etc more frequently.

 

It might also be a minor niggle - the clutch cable has stretched a little, and pulling it to the maximum limit still does not completely disengage the clutch. Try tightening the cable (using the knob at the front of the clutch lever- unscrew the tightening nut and bring the knob further out) then try again.

 

This lengthening of the cable due to wear and tear theory also explains the stalling when you put your bike into 1st gear.

 

Good luck.

Edited by lacrimosae

Believe nothing you hear; and only half of what you see.

Do or do not; there is no 'try'.

 

http://www.themuser.com/forum/index.php

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/lacrimosae/Aprilia/siggiecollage.jpg

Posted

Am using Metzeler M1 Front 110/70 Rear 150/60. Changing to M3 today. Got them from JR, who also sells Dainese apparel.

 

Hi Lac, how much you paid for your M3?

Posted
I'd have advised you against changing the float height, but I think I'm too late for that!

 

Changing the float height alters your fuel mixture. Bringing the float level lower will kill the overflow issue, but will lean your fuel mixture - means insufficient petrol into the engine for combustion. Might explain the stalling.

 

Also, it is important to note that an overflow issue is not a problem, but a symptom of a problem. Like how a fever is not really an illness, its a symptom of a bigger problem, usually an infection somewhere.

 

The overflow might have been caused by incorrect float height, but more likely a defective fuel valve (looks like a sharp orange-rubber tipped brass bullet with a spring switch on the other end), which is failing to cut fuel flow when float reaches preset overflow height.

 

I hope you measured the float height before making the changes. If you did, just adjust the float to the original height and monitor the situation. If leak continues, might need to change fuel valve. If you didn't note the height, check the Dellorto online manual for the default height and reset it. Then monitor.

 

Float height affects the fuel mixture, so if possible, try to leave that alone. Unless you are sure your float height has been altered before.

 

As for your clutch, it's built for a specific purpose, and when subjected to abuse outside of it's design specifications, it's hard to say whether it can hold up to that abuse or succumbs. I doubt our clutches were built to be 'thrown', so my opinion would be that of if you ride it hard, be prepared to replace consumables like brake pads, clutch plates, bearings, etc more frequently.

 

It might also be a minor niggle - the clutch cable has stretched a little, and pulling it to the maximum limit still does not completely disengage the clutch. Try tightening the cable (using the knob at the front of the clutch lever- unscrew the tightening nut and bring the knob further out) then try again.

 

This lengthening of the cable due to wear and tear theory also explains the stalling when you put your bike into 1st gear.

 

Good luck.

 

Regarding the fuel valve, it seems pretty fine to me. (needle and spring part both looking nice.

As for the float height, it has most probably been altered by my mechanic when he washed my carb. That's what I believe of course.

 

But I'll go adjust it back, read somewhere it's 16mm+- 1mm. From the bottom of the float to the float bowl mating surface. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

So I would have to adjust the biting point further from the handlebar?

Sorry about the frequent questions, kinda noob. hahahha.

 

By the way Lawrence, how do I adjust my 2t? I'm using the oil tank, not pre-mixing.

Riding a race bike is an art - a thing that you do because you feel something inside.

Posted

Bike's back from FM. Jammed valve gave me hell for the past few days.

Now 5.5k rpm feels rough.. Alot of vibration and have to open alot more to bring it up to 6k onwards. Any idea why this is so anyone?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/IZECUBEZ/Motivational/Determination.jpg
Posted
Bike's back from FM. Jammed valve gave me hell for the past few days.

Now 5.5k rpm feels rough.. Alot of vibration and have to open alot more to bring it up to 6k onwards. Any idea why this is so anyone?

 

Flat spot. Hehehehe.

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7227/ownage3wh.jpg
Posted (edited)
Hi Wan,

 

Can your bike maintain revs above 10,000k for long or it drops down slowly?

 

Before i installed my exhaust, i had that problem, hopefully the new exhaust fixes things. Am quite irritated now.

 

What have you done to your bike so far? Are the improvements substantial?

 

Over the last 2 weeks, i did the following:

- New power valve, and valve motor

- Bigger carbs

- Removed cdi restrictor

- New exhaust

- Airbox snorkel (to be picked up from Edwin)

 

Hopefull all will be welll when i am free to go and pick up my motorbike!! Cant wait for it to operate "trouble free" again

 

Edmund

the cdi ?? we juz havta change our cdi ... that solves the project .. and my bike cld be revs till 12k but i dun maintain it as im stressin the bike ..

Edited by WawanAprilia

Be humble on the road at all times coz u'll neva noe wen u need any rider's help...

Posted
Bike's back from FM. Jammed valve gave me hell for the past few days.

Now 5.5k rpm feels rough.. Alot of vibration and have to open alot more to bring it up to 6k onwards. Any idea why this is so anyone?

 

Aiya, mine splutter from d begining den when hit 6k started screaming to 8k rpm, after dat haven try, hehehehe

Posted
Bike's back from FM. Jammed valve gave me hell for the past few days.

Now 5.5k rpm feels rough.. Alot of vibration and have to open alot more to bring it up to 6k onwards. Any idea why this is so anyone?

actually u can reduce ya flat spot by adjusting ya air/fuel mix screw or air screw .. i did tat .. it helps ..

Be humble on the road at all times coz u'll neva noe wen u need any rider's help...

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