SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[SW9000]

Dear All,

 

I bought the new SW-T400 3 months back and would be doing my EO change this weekend. I am stuck in a dilema: Liqui Moly Racing Synth 4T 10W-50 or Maxima Maxum4 Ultra 5W40.

 

I read that for the transmission, it's better to follow the manual and use 5W40 oil, is it advisable to use the Liqui Moly for the transmission since the review here for the Liqui Moly is that it is a very slippery oil.

 

Also, for the EO, is 10W50 ok?

 

I would prefer to use the the same oil for both engine and transmission. Thank you for the advise!!!

 

I think LM EO at 50 weight is similar to 40 weight for others.

Some have used it and will comment.

 

As for other EO, recommend use only 10W40 for both engine and gear.

50 is a bit too thick.

5W... never try before. I assume it's mostly for racing and quick start.

[daimtastic]

I think LM EO at 50 weight is similar to 40 weight for others.

Some have used it and will comment.

 

As for other EO, recommend use only 10W40 for both engine and gear.

50 is a bit too thick.

5W... never try before. I assume it's mostly for racing and quick start.

 

Thank you Bro for your advise. If the LM EO at 50 weight is similar to 40 weight for others, does it mean i can use it for both engine and gear?

[scoobydoo]

hehe... i'm the one who used to feed my scooby all sorts of juice, including liqui moly

 

liqui moly EO have liquified molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) added as additives and the use of moly in EO has controversial remarks from auto-motoring "gurus". google the internet and you'll easily get many articles discussing moly in EO.

but as far as scooters are concerned, the effects may not be significant since ours are dry clutch, at least there's no worry about moly caused clutch slippage.

 

From our testing, most SM oils have some level of boron and moly to make up for the lower level of Zn and P and is now more commonly found in SM oils and the new CJ-4 oils. In the development of long-life motor oils with reduced Zn and P, organic soluble moly has been added to help neutralize oxides formed in the motor oil from byproducts of combustion in addition to its use as a friction modifier to improve fuel economy and reduce engine wear in GF-4 and energy conserving oils. Some brands of oils have more moly than others, with Redline and Royal Purple using significantly high levels of moly in their lubricants. Some oil manufacturers claim that the addition of moly can reduce friction up to 38%, reduce bearing wear up to 60% and reduce overall operating temperatures.

 

On the flip side, some advertise their product does not have moly intentionally, claiming moly is an abrasive and deposit forming, which are both true in as much as ZDDP, although forming good anti-wear films, it increases friction and the oil's traction coefficient. CMW Oil is one of the most vocal proponents of the elimination of moly all together from motor oils and does not use any moly friction modifiers in its street, race, or fleet lubricants. CMW is not alone in their recommendation against the use of moly in oils, with Cummins Engine Oil Recommendations, Bulletin No. 3810340-02, stating that "there is firm evidence that certain friction modifiers, molybdenum dithiophosphate for example, can in certain formulations result in cam follower pin failure at relatively low mileage." Also, molybdenum compounds in motor oils can degrade and cause bearing corrosion and is particularly aggressive towards copper. In almost all cases, any engine oil formula having "moly" will also contain a copper deactivator which will protect bearings from the moly compounds. The only problem, the copper deactivator decomposes at relatively low temperatures and looses it's potency after a few thousand miles, which can be seen in used oil analyses of moly rich oils having higher than normal copper levels. Link Additionally, there is documentation in various SAE publications showing a vast number of different species of moly friction modifiers, some providing better wear than fuel savings and vice-versa, and unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine how a friction modified oil is formulated other than to assume that a GF-4 or energy conserving oil is most likely to bias fuel savings for lower wear protection in thinner oils, like the aforementioned 5w20 viscosity so many import and domestic engines now require to meet CAFE requirements.

 

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z22

 

distributor for liqui moly EO for bikes is Equipment Extreme who also have servicing packages:

http://www.equipmentextreme.com/

LM's 10w40 is semi-synthetic while 10w50 and 10w60 are full-synthetic series. although rated as SAE w50, the juice is rather watery and felt like w30 of other PAO/Ester based EO.

note that having similar weight doesn't mean moly and non-moly EO are the same due their respective reactions when in use under heat.

 

personally, i think it is a very good EO for local riding (very smooth, good pickup) but may be too thin for long haul touring even though it is formulated for racing; something like requirements for sprints and marathon in athletics are very different. i did a tour trip to thailand on liqui moly and the EO was "blackish" when i change it after my return (i always change after long trips), unlike when using the usual ester based 10w40 full-syn formula.

 

to use as final drive oil, i think LM 10w50 may be too thin (no proof though), better to stick to the usual PAO/Ester 10w40 motor oil. not sure if using moly friction modifiers/additives is good or bad for the gears and bearings in the final drive.

 

for an all-rounded performer, i would recommend the maxima extra 10w40 full-synthetic EO. at the least, it is a tested and proven product by most of us, including trips to thailand. ultra 5w40? can also but dunno what is its breakdown range and definitely more expensive lor

 

Edited June 15, 2011 by scoobydoo

[kmkoon]

Hi guys.. Please give me advise.. If I travel along the Malaysia highway, then suddenly bike break down, Who should I call for help?? Any bike shop that can repair sw in Malaysia??

[SW9000]

At sgbikemart:

2006 GW18 for $28k,

1998 GW15 for $13.5k.

 

2008 Silverwing for $9k.

Edited June 15, 2011 by SW9000

[hilfiger]

Usually the dealer for e exhaust. For me, as I have a bikeshop I frequent, I always let them do it for me.

 

Oic...ok tks again for all yr replies...

[daimtastic]

Bro Scooby, that's a very detail reply.

 

How about Motul 300 V 4T Factory Line 5W-40 and AMSOIL 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Did you or any others try before? Thank you!!!

[SW9000]

Bro Scooby, that's a very detail reply.

 

How about Motul 300 V 4T Factory Line 5W-40 and AMSOIL 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Did you or any others try before? Thank you!!!

 

300V generally very short usable range of 3000km.

[scoobydoo]

300v is like SW9000 said. it breaks down before my 5k kms change interval plus friggin expensive

 

amsoil? i'm currently using amsoil signature series in my car, not bad but haven't tried its motorbike series due to its $22/quart bottle pricing (from mxtradings, before labor), expensive and is PAO based. 1 us quart is about 0.946 metric litres so you'll need 2+ bottles every change.

i think our ex-SWinger HelmetBOX! uses the car amsoil and feedback its quite good

 

presently sticking with the good and value for money $21/litre bott maxima extra 10w40 (inclusive of labor) at future scootering, do not use the 5w50

Edited June 15, 2011 by scoobydoo

[daimtastic]

Thank you so much for all the replies and advise. i'll go for Maxima Maxum4 Ultra 5W40. Any recommendation where i can go for the servicing?

 

I'm also thinking of adding loud horn, handle bar stabliser, modify to twin head light (would i still have high beam), change lighter roller weight, change to engine ice radiator coolant and change the stock tyres.

[scoobydoo]

wah fren, u got expensive taste leh... heard that "ultra" around $28~$30+/bott, dunno which shop carries for sure, can try calling K&T or motoworld

 

* electric horn, heavy bar-end, engine ice, tyres all can get from Ah Choong or Future.

* SW's H7 high n low beam angle is fixed via the reflector, i.e. twin headlight means both high n low beams are on (very glaring), unless you modify the reflector and convert to H4 bulbs/circuitry/sockets.

[Fusionjaz]

change to engine ice radiator coolant

 

Bro, keep the stock coolant. The stock coolant is 好料。

[daimtastic]

wah fren, u got expensive taste leh... heard that "ultra" around $28~$30+/bott, dunno which shop carries for sure, can try calling K&T or motoworld

 

* electric horn, heavy bar-end, engine ice, tyres all can get from Ah Choong or Future.

* SW's H7 high n low beam angle is fixed via the reflector, i.e. twin headlight means both high n low beams are on (very glaring), unless you modify the reflector and convert to H4 bulbs/circuitry/sockets.

 

Oh, I didn't noticed there was ultra and extra.

 

for the headlight, H4 bulbs/circuitry/sockets are those with "3 legs" right? Do i still need to modify the reflector?

[daimtastic]

Bro, keep the stock coolant. The stock coolant is 好料。

 

I have some engine ice, thought it's good so gonna change it. If the stock coolant is better, i'll keep it then... Thank you!!!

[scoobydoo]

Bro, keep the stock coolant. The stock coolant is 好料。

hanor hanor... unless honda change supplier or cut cost, the greeny slimy sticky juicey thingy that came with the SW is 好料, was told can last a few years unless bo pian gotta drain to repair/replace radiator

[scoobydoo]

Oh, I didn't noticed there was ultra and extra.

 

for the headlight, H4 bulbs/circuitry/sockets are those with "3 legs" right? Do i still need to modify the reflector?

yes... got ultra, got extra.

yes... 3 è„š.

yes... if dun mod reflector, high beam side forever point high, even if using H4 bulb

[daimtastic]

yes... got ultra, got extra.

yes... 3 è„š.

yes... if dun mod reflector, high beam side forever point high, even if using H4 bulb

 

Wow, sounds like the twin headlight is a major mod. Guess I'll stick to the one-eye-jack..

 

Any nice and good bar-end to recommend? I'll also be getting the BMW grips, stock one abit too thin for me..

[Scarab]

At sgbikemart:

2006 GW18 for $28k,

1998 GW15 for $13.5k.

 

2008 Silverwing for $9k.

 

So when changing to GW18...

[SW9000]

So when changing to GW18...

 

Wah. come here cho cho me buy giant bike...

Retiring man cannot afford lah.

Save the $$ I go tour every 2 months.

[whyzee]

98 gw is 13.5k? Damn, then i missed a superb deal with tat 94 model. Ugh

[whyzee]

Wah. come here cho cho me buy giant bike...

Retiring man cannot afford lah.

Save the $$ I go tour every 2 months.

 

When can go 5 nation ride w me? I need u for CO approval..

[scoobydoo]

I need u for CO approval..

wah sei... very happening woh

[scoobydoo]

Any nice and good bar-end to recommend? I'll also be getting the BMW grips, stock one abit too thin for me..

nice bar-end? motovation is nice but $70+

many of us get/order from ah choong, heavy, economical n reasonably good quality, cost $20+ nia. supplier is at kallang but if you know which shop. i dunno where

 

BMW grips cheaper go buy direct from Performance Motors at Bt Timah, $23+ nia... outside shops mostly selling $30~$40+.

they all say the girl at level 2 very kawaii so it may be worth a visit for eye candy

[Fusionjaz]

BMW grips cheaper go buy direct from Performance Motors at Bt Timah, $23+ nia... outside shops mostly selling $30~$40+.

 

You can also GPR grip which cost SGD10. It is exactly the same as BMW grip… unless you don't mind paying 20 bucks more for washing your eyes

keke

[scoobydoo]

think i saw the GPR grips once but can't remember where. yup, they're very similar.

btw, the BMW grips got no BMW logo hor

 

i've updated the Tech Corner post #168 with some info about Bar-End Sliders aka balancers.

 

address of Performance Motors and Motovation also updated at Tech Corner liow