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Posted

Has anyone change this b4? What are the symtom? Usually how much will this cost?

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

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Posted

If I recall correctly, one of the signs of a worn out timing chain is the tappeting sound coming from within the engine. Tick tick tick tick.. Changing it would usually require a top servicing to be done, with the engine case being opened up, regardless of bike.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

i see. yes i have discover that actually there this tick sound coming out from the engine and idling for the rpm cant remain at a constant level. sometimes worst, rpm drop n die on me. usually have to constantly revving bike inorder to keep it moving.

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
At least tell us what bike is from?

 

yes i'm riding a zx4 L9

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
If I recall correctly, one of the signs of a worn out timing chain is the tappeting sound coming from within the engine. Tick tick tick tick.. Changing it would usually require a top servicing to be done, with the engine case being opened up, regardless of bike.

 

bro so normally how much would this actually cost? in terms of top servicing wad other services what i be expecting of?

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted

Thanks, but i think they are more specialized in Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha bike..

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
most shops can do ur bike la simmz.. but i recommend u these 3 shops

 

- k&t

- unique motor

- pleasure motor(recommend u here.. behind k&t)

 

Hi

 

I thought pleasure is pretty good in skills and service? price wise... not sure..

 

by the way where is K&T? higher cost than pleasure?

I BoRn tO be Perfect BuT EducaTion Ruined mE - AspMonK

Posted
bro so normally how much would this actually cost? in terms of top servicing wad other services what i be expecting of?

If the engine case is opened, then might as well change the worn out parts inside, besides the timing chain.. Tensioner, shims, head gasket, valve clearance etc, you get the picture.

 

I haven't sent my R1 for top servicing yet, but was quoted a rough figure of $1k.

 

Do head to a reputable shop, cos your engine's gonna be cracked open. It's kinda like a heart surgery for the bike, you know.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
Hi

 

I thought pleasure is pretty good in skills and service? price wise... not sure..

 

by the way where is K&T? higher cost than pleasure?

K&T and Planet do charge slightly higher than normal motorshops, but at the end of the day, paying that bit more for trust and workmanship makes it all worthwhile..

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted
most shops can do ur bike la simmz.. but i recommend u these 3 shops

 

- k&t

- unique motor

- pleasure motor(recommend u here.. behind k&t)

 

I let u know why when i see u next time.. What i can say is.. Bad experience..

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
K&T and Planet do charge slightly higher than normal motorshops, but at the end of the day, paying that bit more for trust and workmanship makes it all worthwhile..

 

Mmm... got it but I still dont know the price range.. any advise?

I BoRn tO be Perfect BuT EducaTion Ruined mE - AspMonK

Posted
Has anyone change this b4? What are the symtom? Usually how much will this cost?

 

 

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/header1.jpg

 

I don't have any pictures that shows timing chain. This is the closest I can get from my old files that I sometimes use when I conduct training. I hope it helps you. Instead of using timing chain, this engine from VAG uses a timing belt that is separated from the main EO lubrication. Imagine this belt to be a chain that connects the 2 camshafts if it is a DOHC engine which most japanese bike engines on inline arrangement are, and connecting it to the crankshaft, inside the engine lubricated by the engine oil circuit. Something that is required to create a k tension on the chain to prevent it from running off timing is the cam chain tensioner.

 

If it runs off timing, there will be a drop in power. Or even engine stall and cannot start despite being able to crank. The cam chain tensioner 'pushes the chain' so it remains at the right tension. The tensioner can only move in one direction which is inwards. The chain has to maintain a certain degree of slack stipulated by factory despite being tensioned.

 

I did such a repair on a GSXR600K1 engine before. It was a top overhaul. Ended up replacing all 8 exhaust shim tappets. My intake cam and the 8 valve to it were all within tolerance. My take is, if you want to do it, might as well do a top overhaul. Don't waste your money, time, your gaskets, engine oil, oil filters etc doing a double job. You may need to go to the agent and get the valve clearance table if your workshop does not have it.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/16012011003.jpg

Do Not Tailgate Me!

Posted

I've sent my bike for a diagnose. According to my mechanic, he say it's actually the tensioner that causing the problem.. Darn it.. A small piece of thing cost me 100+

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
I've sent my bike for a diagnose. According to my mechanic, he say it's actually the tensioner that causing the problem.. Darn it.. A small piece of thing cost me 100+

 

The replacement of that little piece require the engine cam cover to be opened, top gasket to be replaced, since it's opened, maybe you might as well replace your spark plugs, air filter, engine oil. engine oil filter. Because the only way to get that part out is via inside. $100 is considered cheap considering the amount of labour, profit margin, operating costs...

And since you need to replace that might as well do a top overhaul. Ask them for some complimentry price to do that. I think a top overhaul is about $300 with another $100 for the shim pads, v/v springs etc you may need to replace. With that, you can even ask for freebies like free engine oil filter when you compulsorily replace your engine oil for the top overhaul. :lol: Of course depending on your relationship with the workshop.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/16012011003.jpg

Do Not Tailgate Me!

Posted

MS, I beg to differ on this. Most of the motorcycle engines have the cam chain tensioner locate externally. It can be accessed and replaced easily even without removing the fuel tank :thirsty:

 

http://www.ldrider.ca/techpages/camchaintensioner-manual3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted

Yes, this is what it looks like. However after changing i still faced the problem of RPM, whereby the RPM will drop if idle to long and will result of my bike dying off.. Does it matter with my carb setting?

http://coastline.chu.jp/Resources/zxr400.jpg

Be cool, Be smart... Be your Yourself!

Regardless the bike model/brand. No matter how good/fast the bike is. Without skills the bike is nothing.

Money is'nt everything, but without money, you're just nothing!

Posted
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/header1.jpg

 

I don't have any pictures that shows timing chain. This is the closest I can get from my old files that I sometimes use when I conduct training. I hope it helps you. Instead of using timing chain, this engine from VAG uses a timing belt that is separated from the main EO lubrication. Imagine this belt to be a chain that connects the 2 camshafts if it is a DOHC engine which most japanese bike engines on inline arrangement are, and connecting it to the crankshaft, inside the engine lubricated by the engine oil circuit. Something that is required to create a k tension on the chain to prevent it from running off timing is the cam chain tensioner.

 

If it runs off timing, there will be a drop in power. Or even engine stall and cannot start despite being able to crank. The cam chain tensioner 'pushes the chain' so it remains at the right tension. The tensioner can only move in one direction which is inwards. The chain has to maintain a certain degree of slack stipulated by factory despite being tensioned.

 

I did such a repair on a GSXR600K1 engine before. It was a top overhaul. Ended up replacing all 8 exhaust shim tappets. My intake cam and the 8 valve to it were all within tolerance. My take is, if you want to do it, might as well do a top overhaul. Don't waste your money, time, your gaskets, engine oil, oil filters etc doing a double job. You may need to go to the agent and get the valve clearance table if your workshop does not have it.

 

The replacement of that little piece require the engine cam cover to be opened, top gasket to be replaced, since it's opened, maybe you might as well replace your spark plugs, air filter, engine oil. engine oil filter. Because the only way to get that part out is via inside. $100 is considered cheap considering the amount of labour, profit margin, operating costs...

And since you need to replace that might as well do a top overhaul. Ask them for some complimentry price to do that. I think a top overhaul is about $300 with another $100 for the shim pads, v/v springs etc you may need to replace. With that, you can even ask for freebies like free engine oil filter when you compulsorily replace your engine oil for the top overhaul. :lol: Of course depending on your relationship with the workshop.

 

MS, I beg to differ on this. Most of the motorcycle engines have the cam chain tensioner locate externally. It can be accessed and replaced easily even without removing the fuel tank :thirsty:

 

http://www.ldrider.ca/techpages/camchaintensioner-manual3.jpg

 

I'm afraid you've mistaken my posting. Indeed the timing cam chain tensioner is located outside. At the location nearest to Zyl 1. I think the diagram with VAG has rather confused you. I'm sorry. This is the closest picture I can get. This component while being outside reaches the inside touching the timing cam chain which is located inside lubricated by the EO circuit. this 'touch' provides a tension to the cam chain which prevents excess slack on the cam chain.

 

The timing cam chain tensioner can only travel in 1 direction which is inwards. Even with a bracket that allows replacement without opening the engine top cam cover, by adjusting it without checking the slack on the chain is not a job well done. In fact mess up on the chain slack/tension specifications stipulated by the factory. Because this extra bracket/housing offers the 'check valve' styled movement; one way traffic, inwards only. The reason to prevent it from moving outwards is because the tensioner has to maintain tension all the time for the timing chain. By being able to move freely on reciprocating direction will compromise the cause of the cam chain tensioner.

 

The timing cam chain tensioner's primary function is to prevent excessive slack on the timing cam chain. Therefore if the chain slack is not adhered to the specifications, it is better not to waste money doing it. The slack of the cam chain can be determined via the workshop service manual. For example counting the number of segments between the twin overhead cams. Of course there are plenty of methods to determine the correct chain slack. And this requires the workshop service manual. But most Japanese bikes are on the inline DOHC arrangement timing controlled by the timing chain. So the chain slack method is the most commonly used.

 

Unlike the chain drive, timing belts cannot be lubricated by EO and so it is installed in a separate comparment sealed from the EO circuitry. The belt is also tensioned by the belt tensioner which can be located inside the timing belt housing or outside just like you can see in the diagram from VAG.

 

But I'm indeed impressed you're so observant to point out such a misunderstanding for clarification. :thumb:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/16012011003.jpg

Do Not Tailgate Me!

Posted

Bikes with automatic cam chain tensioner, riders will change it to a manual one. Those with manual one, want to change it to an automatic one.

 

We can never be happy :angel:

 

:)

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