SBF Kymco Downtown 125/200/300/350i Cafe 2013

[parotae]

Fellow DT owners, I just discovered the c-clip below my brake lever had cracked and comes

Off easily using my fingernails gently pushing it.

 

I was rocking the the lever and found it to be very flimsy shaking up and down. I look below just to see if anything is loose. Upon inspecting, I found the c clip with a crack line. I push it with my fingers and it came off easily. I tried the other lever and it's the same.

 

Without the clip the pin may come off with all the vibration. I tried to take out the pin but couldn't push it out.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/809ff055.jpg

There's 2 c clip. 1 big and 1 small.

The big c clip of mine cracked.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/6f4dad77.jpg

[parotae]

DT300 left hand rear suspension will hit and cut the air box of fully compress over hump, with pillion, big hump, high speed uneven road slamming bump.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/80a46da5.jpg

 

The metal area which cut into the airbox.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/9f5699b3.jpg

[topgearalwaysrock]

Whoa! The air box seems to be damaged quite badly by the suspension!!! My DT125i air box is very stiff leh. Can't make it touch the suspension. Maybe cos I never pillion at all.

 

Hmm.... Another 2 more design flaws of the DownTown. Kymco Taiwan!!! What the heck are your doing with R&D???

[wee keong]

Hi all, im going to be doing servicing for my bike soon. I'm totally unfamiliar about engine oil and stuff. Any recommendations? The mineral oil according to the KYMCO dealer can last me 5000km. I am not sure about that and i wish to change to a better oil at 3000km interval. I have also not change my oil filter since the day i got it. my current milage now is around 5500km. Is that perfectly alright?

[topgearalwaysrock]

Hi all, im going to be doing servicing for my bike soon. I'm totally unfamiliar about engine oil and stuff. Any recommendations? The mineral oil according to the KYMCO dealer can last me 5000km. I am not sure about that and i wish to change to a better oil at 3000km interval. I have also not change my oil filter since the day i got it. my current milage now is around 5500km. Is that perfectly alright?

 

 

I changed the oil filter on my scoot at the 5000km servicing. As for engine oil, it's not advisable IMO that mineral oil last for 5000km. Anyways, there should be 3 free servicing isn't it? I forgot the mileage for the free servicing liao. I've met one DT300i guy change his engine oil only when the "Oil Service" indicator lights up. That's a little too extreme for me. Hehe

 

For Oil filter, I change once for every 3000km. I'm quite kiasu. I change mineral oil every 1500km. I'm currently using Idemitsu mineral oil. It's not too bad.

 

I used to use fully synthetic oil and I thought it could last till 5000km, but at 3500-4000km, the engine starts to sound a tad gruff and rough. So I decided to use mineral oil/ semi-synthetic instead, and change at shorter intervals.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Not too bad. Topped up petrol today on my first official tank of fuel after installing the Dr Pulley rollers, and fuel consumption of 30.3km/L means there isn't any lost! It's darn good Dr Pulley rollers!!!

[parotae]

Hi all, im going to be doing servicing for my bike soon. I'm totally unfamiliar about engine oil and stuff. Any recommendations? The mineral oil according to the KYMCO dealer can last me 5000km. I am not sure about that and i wish to change to a better oil at 3000km interval. I have also not change my oil filter since the day i got it. my current milage now is around 5500km. Is that perfectly alright?

 

Synthetic 5000km (Factory) Change early according to preference.

Oil Filter Every 5000km (Factory) Or change together with every oil change.

I change engine oil about 2000km-3000km. As for oil filter, i'll change at the 3rd change of oil.

eg. 1st change oil and oil filter. 3000km later,change oil only (no oil filter change) .Another 3000km later, change oil and oil filter. So i use my oil filter for 6000km then change.

 

Mineral oil recommend to change twice as frequent to synthetic (just a gauge only). eg. Synthetic 5000km then mineral is 2500km.

This topic of oil change is very subjective to every individual. Each has their own idea of oil change interval. Generally this are the standard practice.

 

If you service at agent, generally they already know the sequence. Next will be gear oil change at 5000km also.

I must stress here that DT gear oil must change on time every 5000km. Mine turn greyish at 10,000km (Which i used mobil premium oil at 200km) suggesting that the stresses on the gears are great. Feel like using 110 or 140 gear oil. Drag is better than a worn gear.

 

Don't worry, Mr Herbert says if engine go kaput just claim only. Which won't happen lah.

I mean the engine go kaput part won't happen if use normally.Not the claim bo part ha ha.

[wee keong]

usually the engine will give problem after the warrenty period. Unless KYMCO is giving 50,000 milage warrenty or 5 years whichever comes first, then i will change oil zun zun at 5000km interval. Otherwise im going to change oil at 2500-3000km.

 

I just want to check, is there major difference between mineral oil, semi and fully synt engine oil?

[topgearalwaysrock]

usually the engine will give problem after the warrenty period. Unless KYMCO is giving 50,000 milage warrenty or 5 years whichever comes first, then i will change oil zun zun at 5000km interval. Otherwise im going to change oil at 2500-3000km.

 

I just want to check, is there major difference between mineral oil, semi and fully synt engine oil?

 

 

Quoting from http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

Mineral oils are based on oil that comes from dear old Mother Earth which has been refined. Synthetic oils are mostly concocted by chemists wearing white lab coats in oil company laboratories. The only other type is semi-synthetic, sometimes called premium, which is a blend of the two. It is safe to mix the different types, but it's wiser to switch completely to a new type rather than mixing.

 

Hope it helps!!

[parotae]

usually the engine will give problem after the warrenty period. Unless KYMCO is giving 50,000 milage warrenty or 5 years whichever comes first, then i will change oil zun zun at 5000km interval. Otherwise im going to change oil at 2500-3000km.

 

I just want to check, is there major difference between mineral oil, semi and fully synt engine oil?

 

From what i know arh...

 

In simple form hor. There's a lot of term i don't know ha ha.

 

Feel free to add or correct me.

 

1. Synthetic - are oil made from vegetable oil usually, not from mineral oil. Additive and other stuff are added to make it fit specific uses like withstand high temperature, high stresses, provide, extend drain interval, clean carbon deposit and etc

 

2. Semi syn - are actually mineral oil, they are in no way synthetic. It's actually false advertising making consumer think that it's actually synthetic. Since it uses mineral it shouldn't be classify as synthetics. They are called semi synthetics as the oil are added some chemical found in synthetic i suppose.

 

3. Mineral - as the name suggest are oil from the ground form by fossils of living things. If you observe carefully, oil comes from fossil of living things. How come there is so much oil underground to last for so long. Everyday almost everyone uses fossil fuel how come got so much fuel to go around. That means alot of living things died down there and it's in very great numbers.

 

Ha ha back to the topic. Mineral oil are not cheapos. they also have additive added to it to protect the engine, just that it can't withstand long drain interval. So got to change sooner.

 

If you can use mineral and change like every 2000km its as good as using synthetics for 5000km.

The difference in my opinion is how are you gonna use it.

If you ride like a racer then the mineral oil will break down faster and also don't provide higher temperature protection.

Synthetics will provide all those protection better and longer. Bear in mine some synthetics use for racing are good only during the duration of the race. IMO it means the oil once get used the properties start to protect during use, once stop the oil starts to break down. Some crazy idea i assume and imagine. If not why it says on the bottle. Exceptional protection for the duration of race.

 

Just sharing my view only. In may not be accurate just read for fun lor ha ha.

[parotae]

So are there a difference between Car and motorcycle oil?

Can car oil be use in scooters?

 

IMO again.

Car oil are generally not recommended for scooters, more so for motorcycle as motorcycle wet clutches are soak in engine. Oil for cars used in motorcycle will cause slippage in wet clutches or hard engagement of gears.

Normal car oil are not made for high rpm uses like motorcycle and scooters especially mineral.

 

Ever wonder why motorcycle oil cost more than car oil.

Because the oil are formulate with more stuff inside to accomodate higher running engine speed that causes oil to breakdown faster.

More stuff added of cause the price goes up.

 

As for scooter using car oil since scooter don't have wet clutches like motorcycle except burgman 650, can car engine oil be use?

IMO, it can be. How i determine is that

eg. instead of using it for the full 5000km for a synthetic motorcycle oil. I use the car synthetics for 2500km-3000km on scooters.

This are all just theory base on common sense or non sense ha ha.

eg. Car cruising speed on expressway at 80km/h ~ 1800rpm (depending on what car, just example only. Maybe higher or lower)

AS for average scooter can be from 4000rpm to 6000rpm (also depending on what scooter but generally it will be way higher than a cars rpm)

So as you can see, which do you think the oil will break down faster? Car or scooter. Then there is the question of the number of cylinders.

Car have 4 cylinder (lets take the average number in saloon cars) and scooter have 1 or 2 cylinder. So i am no engineer here. I can't decide which will break down the oil faster. 1 cylinder or 4 cylinder is the rpm and temperature are the same.

 

So if any of you guys have come across such topics, please post and we can share share instead of doing a guessing game or hear and learn the wrong stuff ha ha.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Hmm. Read the Downtown Manual that I downloaded from the internet. Seems that the Downtown also has an oil bath for the transmission which is connected to the drive shaft?? Haha. Is that what the transmission oil is for??

 

Am really amazed at the 232 page of the servicing manual for the downtown. Haha!

 

Why isn't it given to us??

[parotae]

Hmm. Read the Downtown Manual that I downloaded from the internet. Seems that the Downtown also has an oil bath for the transmission which is connected to the drive shaft?? Haha. Is that what the transmission oil is for??

 

Am really amazed at the 232 page of the servicing manual for the downtown. Haha!

 

Why isn't it given to us??

 

Workshop manual are actually for workshop.

I don't think it will be of any use to owners like us except to see see look look only.

Besides, it's a reference for mechanic or hobbyist alike.

Imagine a person who have access to this info, can do his own service until a certain extend, bike shop no food to eat already ha ha.

Also, this are sweat and effort going into making this manual. Paying for it would be an ethical option then giving it away freely.

Heng got internet can download ha ha.

 

Gears all need lubrication of some sort no?(watches?)

Especially high speed. Further more, our transmission gears are under load and stresses.

Gear at high speed get fling off and thus need to bath in oil to create a thin film and thick enough to act as a cushion between the rubbing surface.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Workshop manual are actually for workshop.

I don't think it will be of any use to owners like us except to see see look look only.

Besides, it's a reference for mechanic or hobbyist alike.

Imagine a person who have access to this info, can do his own service until a certain extend, bike shop no food to eat already ha ha.

Also, this are sweat and effort going into making this manual. Paying for it would be an ethical option then giving it away freely.

Heng got internet can download ha ha.

 

Gears all need lubrication of some sort no?(watches?)

Especially high speed. Further more, our transmission gears are under load and stresses.

Gear at high speed get fling off and thus need to bath in oil to create a thin film and thick enough to act as a cushion between the rubbing surface.

 

 

Hmm. Ok. An owner's manual will be more appropriate without the torque and tools value. That said, we paid for our scoot already. I don't think this manual will cost more than $10 isn't it?? It should come with it as standard, whether we use/ refer to it or not I reckon.

 

Well, I actually thought all these while, the engine is connected straight to the variator. Haha. Didn't realise there's a drive shaft and all sorts of things literally behind the scenes working. Haha!

[kimochi]

...still waiting. No news.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Yup. Not even launched in Taiwan. haha. Think it's delayed. Expect it to arrive here on local shores after October.

[kimochi]

Found this on the net:

 

http://forum.jorsindo.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2361825&fromuid=86716

 

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.241548425904480.60618.107137546012236&type=3

[synman]

Not reaching any time soon. My guess maybe end of next year ha ha. Hopefully much earlier and that is if Motorsport consider bringing it in.

Price wise, Kymco always not cheap.

My guess maybe around $14K-$15 OTR given that Downtown 300 is around $12K OTR

Hope it's expensive, so I don't have to upgrade ha ha

 

You are right, I also itching to change....

 

How is the new part working for you?

 

For me, only improve the start slightly but improve at higher speed....

 

But yet at times it is worse when moving off.

[synman]

Not reaching any time soon. My guess maybe end of next year ha ha. Hopefully much earlier and that is if Motorsport consider bringing it in.

Price wise, Kymco always not cheap.

My guess maybe around $14K-$15 OTR given that Downtown 300 is around $12K OTR

Hope it's expensive, so I don't have to upgrade ha ha

 

You are right, I also itching to change....

 

How is the new part working for you?

 

For me, only improve the start slightly but improve at higher speed....

 

But yet at times it is worse when moving off.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Hey guys! Is it possible to do a solid mount on the centre part of the handlebar to mount a camera??

[kimochi]

http://www.bikehk.com/report/2012/r5037/

 

Kymco new models test ride

[topgearalwaysrock]

Hehe. I have every reason to believe that Kymco is delaying the launch of the K-XCT 300i and Xciting 400i so that they'll have more time for R&D to get their parts to be absolutely problem free.

 

These days, manufacturers usually launch their products early, only to find that problems arise from consumers, and recalls or rectifying has to be made. So may as well go back to the good old days of properly testing their products and clocking the test miles before launching a full-proof product for consumers.

 

Don't blame Kymco for taking a long time to launch their new product lineup. Haha.

[tabung]

Hey guys! Is it possible to do a solid mount on the centre part of the handlebar to mount a camera??

 

Yes possible... but u need to buy a good ram mount to fix it....

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[parotae]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/1f31affb.jpg

[parotae]

@topgearalwaysrock

How you like majesty 400 right. Here's a pic though not camera, on a majesty 400.

 

You can check with tabung how he mounted his on his handle bar.

Edited June 26, 2012 by parotae