GSX400RR Riders

[speedtriple]

As for the broken shaft, I think only way is to try to drill it out. May have to rethread it after that.... Not to worry lar.

 

how to do this? i at most can drill the thing but how to re-thread it?

[ktkt]

Originally posted by He@d|3sS^b|k3r@Feb 11 2005, 03:21 PM

hmmm...abit blur regarding the answers to my problems.

 

There's isn't any power supply at all, neutral light...nothing at all even when i replaced a new fuse. and the voltage i replace is the same. when i've replaced the new one, there's still no power supply when i on my ignition. When my ignition is off, i've saw sparks when i trying to insert the new piece of fuse into it. headache! headache!!

Can't help you there bro.

 

I dunno what the fuse on the box is for, where it's leading to and from.

Kind of weird though, when ignition is off, the fuse still blows? Sparks but

the fuse is blown or still working?

 

Or after you switch to "ON", it blows?

[ktkt]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Feb 11 2005, 04:06 PM

how to do this? i at most can drill the thing but how to re-thread it?

use a thread repair kit and if doesn't work, use heli-coil.

If all else fails, use cable tie.

[ktkt]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Feb 11 2005, 03:10 PM

another question:

i wanna change rear signal lights. stock light bulbs are 12V 10W. how can i use a 12V 23W bulb? can get a batt with higher voltage? or increase resistance of the wires - thinner wires? so blurr....

 

How come u wanna use such powerful signal lights????

[Arcfire]

Originally posted by E-SAP-TEHTEK@Feb 11 2005, 02:23 AM

yup... Next project UNDERTRAY EXHAUST Do you happen to have any CBR600rr exhaust lying around....??

Woah......sounds real neat......... would love to be ard when you start doing it......

[Arcfire]

Originally posted by E-SAP-TEHTEK@Feb 11 2005, 02:18 PM

Sorry just to add some of the things I know.(not trying to kay kiang):-

 

1. Fuse burnt?? Which Fuse or fuses?? Did fuse burnt again after replacing it??Try replacing the fuse without ignition on...That is in OFF position. If it still burnt then you have a short in your electrical/wiring system. BIG TIME HEADACHE.....

 

2.Fuse burnt ONLY when ignition is on.Check the whole ignition circuit/current flow.

 

3.Fuse burnt ONLY when engine is started and begin revving the engine.Suspect the rectifier.Over current feeding to the entire circuit.

 

 

For problem 1 & 2 it cannot be the rectifier, as the rectifier will only "kicks in" when engine is started.Rectifier converts AC current from the coil (inside the engine right side) to DC current and stabilizes it at +/- 12V.If the rectifier is "Kaput" .This DC voltage might go up to 24VDC thus causing high current flow which in turn cause the fuse to blow.Correct fuse rating is therefore important in this case.If you were to put a higher amperage (>30Amp) instead of of blowing the fuse it will "fry up" your wiring.I personally has seen this before.There's this friend of mine who instead of replacing the fuse, bypass the fuse altogether by a thick wire across the terminal. It "fry" almost 70% of his wiring harness. Lucky for him the bike did not catches fire.

 

These are just some knowledge that I've learnt but if you think there is anything wrong pls correct me.Thanks...

Sorry ah.... juz wanted to ask another question regarding the fuse box.......

As you all know, the cover shows the fuse rating of the fuses to be inserted in the fuse box....... what i wan to ask is, which is the proper way to look at the fuse diagram on the cover?

 

If you place it inverted, (ie. the underside of the cover facing you) it shows a certain fuse combination on the fusebox.......BUT if you consider it when it is closed on the fusebox n you imagine you can see through the cover n see the diagram under it, it shows another fuse combination......so which exactly is the correct way to look at the fuse???

[Arcfire]

Wah...on wed nite, when going back with Icez n ah teck, we stop by jalan kayu for makan....saw a cbr400 with custom single seater.....damn chio...n the rider seat is damn long n wide....looks damn nice...too bad i forgot to take photo of it......

See liao oso wan to do up my bike sia.....correct or not icez!?!?!

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by ktkt@Feb 11 2005, 04:31 PM

use heli-coil.

Bro,, if I not wrong this one cost more than $100 right??

[speedtriple]

Originally posted by ktkt@Feb 11 2005, 04:32 PM

How come u wanna use such powerful signal lights????

bo bian, when i bought it there was no indication of the power of the lights until i got home, opened it and looked at the bulb inside it. install it there was no signal loh.

 

anybody can help????????????

 

if not i'll have to hit the library liaoz. :sleep:

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by He@d|3sS^b|k3r@Feb 11 2005, 03:21 PM

When my ignition is off, i've saw sparks when i trying to insert the new piece of fuse into it. headache! headache!!

There is a spark there because there is a short in your electrical system.The moment you insert the fuse it will sparks and blow your new fuse.

[speedtriple]

Originally posted by ktkt@Feb 11 2005, 04:31 PM

use a thread repair kit and if doesn't work, use heli-coil.

If all else fails, use cable tie.

wat the @#$%$ is a thread repair kit? and wat the !@$#$ is a heli coil? buy from where and how much $$$????? sim lim tower?

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by TheSquid@Feb 11 2005, 02:39 PM

near the front spockets. take out the cover, theres a mechanism inside.

Ok... its the small little (about 3cm by 3cm) squarish black thingy that has a wire coming out from it right?? If that's it, it called the pulser coil.

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Feb 11 2005, 03:10 PM

hey azman,

good input on headless's problem. so the main electrical power source for a bike is the battery right? when you start the engine, current from the battery goes to the engine's coil and then to the rectifier? after that where does it go? without starting the engine, our neutral lights, headlights and signal lights work because of direct usage from the battery? asking cos i blur about it.

 

another question:

i wanna change rear signal lights. stock light bulbs are 12V 10W. how can i use a 12V 23W bulb? can get a batt with higher voltage? or increase resistance of the wires - thinner wires? so blurr....

 

since P = VI mah or P=I2R.

 

if increase current, the current wires may fry right? btw, how do i know how much resistance a coil of wires has?

 

:help:

B4 you start the engine the neutral ,headlight,etc is being supply by the battery itself.Once you cranked the engine,u will noticed that there is a dip in your headlight brightness coz the starter motor is consuming a huge amount of current for it to start hence causing the voltage to drop slightly. at this point,when the engine start running.The rectifier will comes in and charge the battery and MAINTAIN the a stable voltage at +/- 12V. Hence providing the required voltage/current throughout.If you have a faulty rectifier,this voltage will not be stable. This will cause over charging which could damage your battery or no charging at all.

 

Your second question regarding the 23W light. I know nothing about electronic formula but what i will do is to get some resistor n do some experimenting,BTW if I not wrong,the correct signal light bulb should be 12V 15W or 18W right??Correct me if I'm wrong..

 

Don't think you can measure resistance of wire like that.Measuring the resistance of a wire using multimeter will result in very low resistance(about 1 Ohm).To be safe, a thicker wire with a fuse across it would be better.At most it will blow your fuse if current is too high...

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by Arcfire@Feb 11 2005, 04:35 PM

Woah......sounds real neat......... would love to be ard when you start doing it......

I will start doing it if you have a spare CBR600RR exhaust....

[HAWK]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Feb 11 2005, 03:10 PM

hey azman,

good input on headless's problem. so the main electrical power source for a bike is the battery right? when you start the engine, current from the battery goes to the engine's coil and then to the rectifier? after that where does it go? without starting the engine, our neutral lights, headlights and signal lights work because of direct usage from the battery? asking cos i blur about it.

 

another question:

i wanna change rear signal lights. stock light bulbs are 12V 10W. how can i use a 12V 23W bulb? can get a batt with higher voltage? or increase resistance of the wires - thinner wires? so blurr....

 

since P = VI mah or P=I2R.

 

if increase current, the current wires may fry right? btw, how do i know how much resistance a coil of wires has?

 

:help:

Hi, juz wan to comment on the electrical aspects. The higher pwer headlight u wan to install, u muz consider the following things. A higher wattage will means a larger load. since the rectifier is suppling the power when on. U muz first consider the max output power suppliable by the rectifier. I not sure abt our bike rectifier max output power. And whether there is any overloading cutoff mechanism. but i think not.. so if there is no limiting mechanism. Some things might happen:

 

1) the rectifier continue to output the current. if it is within the max power rating. ok

 

2) the rectifier continue to output the current. if it is outside the max power rating. it will either burnt out or continue working but with a shorten lifespan. but in this case, the fuse also has a current rating. so the fuse might go out first. Saving ur rectifier whichever is close to the limit.

 

DO NOT USE A THINNER WIRE! a thinner wire has a lower current capactity.

u shld use a thicker wire. it has a higher power rating.

 

if u wan to be really safe, use the 3 phse wires from the appliances.. support up to 13A but that is an over kill... but from my opinion. the current wires shld be ok.. cause the current increase by 2 folds only. unless there is a short circuit, hope ur fuse works effectively loh.

 

I major in Electronics, Above is my 2 cents worth of opinion.. Gd luck,

[HAWK]

Guys, haiz dunno when can join u guys for outing... my bike giving me problems on n off.. Got a question. the trottle cable links to the carbs right? do u expect to see any mechanical movements when u pull the trottle? my bike is down. can't push start. then right now found my trottle cable link to the carb like a bit loose.

 

a very strong petrol smell can also be smelt.. wats wrong? electrical supply ok.

 

Can Crank but can's start. Battery still strong. An uncle riding super 4 told me maybe my plugs is wet... but if my throttle cable is faulty, can I still push start?

any way to start?

[E-SAP-TEHTEK]

Originally posted by HAWK@Feb 11 2005, 11:57 PM

Guys, haiz dunno when can join u guys for outing... my bike giving me problems on n off.. Got a question. the trottle cable links to the carbs right? do u expect to see any mechanical movements when u pull the trottle? my bike is down. can't push start. then right now found my trottle cable link to the carb like a bit loose.

 

a very strong petrol smell can also be smelt.. wats wrong? electrical supply ok.

 

Can Crank but can's start. Battery still strong. An uncle riding super 4 told me maybe my plugs is wet... but if my throttle cable is faulty, can I still push start?

any way to start?

There is some mechanical movement when you turn the trottle at the middle of the carb. If you can't see this use your finger and fell the movement.But your trottle did spring back when you release the trottle right??? If it does then it eliminate the possibility of the trottle cable "end" coming out of its position.

 

For me if you can crank the engine(Strong Battery) there is no point in push starting the bike.By push starting the bike is the same as working on the magic button.First of all bear with me ( Can be ab bit LOR SOH....)

 

Things to do/check when bike can't start:-

 

1.Is the key in the ignition??

2.Is the key turn to "ON"?

3.Is the "killswicth" button on "RUN"??

4.Is the bike in first gear n Side stand down??

(Don't laugh

these are some problem I n my frens have encounter B4)

 

5.If all the above have been checked.Then proceed with checking the starter button for corroded/rusty contacts.For your case ,I doubt so as the stater is cranking.

 

6.Check any fuse blown??

7.Plug out one of the suppressor cable.With a spark plug connected to the suppressor n plug tip to the body,crank the bike.. you should see sparks coming from the spark plug gap.

8.If no spark,check the pulser coil(Located on left side casing with 2 wire in a black sleeving which goes to your wiring harness) Using a multimeter which I suppose u have, measure the resisitance.It should read approx. 110 Ohm.If you are gettiing more than 1K Ohm than your pulser coil is gone.

8.If pulser coil ok, the next thing to suspect is the mighty dreaded CDI..... In order to confirm this u need another CDI to swap n see whether the bike starts....

 

Other factors that can contribute to failing to start the bike is the plug coil itself which I've yet to learn on ways of checking it... Anyone any idea on this...

[HAWK]

Originally posted by E-SAP-TEHTEK@Feb 12 2005, 12:36 AM

There is some mechanical movement when you turn the trottle at the middle of the carb. If you can't see this use your finger and fell the movement.But your trottle did spring back when you release the trottle right??? If it does then it eliminate the possibility of the trottle cable "end" coming out of its position.

 

For me if you can crank the engine(Strong Battery) there is no point in push starting the bike.By push starting the bike is the same as working on the magic button.First of all bear with me ( Can be ab bit LOR SOH....)

 

Things to do/check when bike can't start:-

 

1.Is the key in the ignition??

2.Is the key turn to "ON"?

3.Is the "killswicth" button on "RUN"??

4.Is the bike in first gear n Side stand down??

(Don't laugh

these are some problem I n my frens have encounter B4)

 

5.If all the above have been checked.Then proceed with checking the starter button for corroded/rusty contacts.For your case ,I doubt so as the stater is cranking.

 

6.Check any fuse blown??

7.Plug out one of the suppressor cable.With a spark plug connected to the suppressor n plug tip to the body,crank the bike.. you should see sparks coming from the spark plug gap.

8.If no spark,check the pulser coil(Located on left side casing with 2 wire in a black sleeving which goes to your wiring harness) Using a multimeter which I suppose u have, measure the resisitance.It should read approx. 110 Ohm.If you are gettiing more than 1K Ohm than your pulser coil is gone.

8.If pulser coil ok, the next thing to suspect is the mighty dreaded CDI..... In order to confirm this u need another CDI to swap n see whether the bike starts....

 

Other factors that can contribute to failing to start the bike is the plug coil itself which I've yet to learn on ways of checking it... Anyone any idea on this...

well, my bike been in and out of GH this month, due to a persistent poor idling problem.. leading to engine stall at neutral or clutch in. I juz did my valve clearance, changed my ignition coil, pulser coil, The boss of GH tested my CDI ok... rectifier ok, fuses all ok... in short wiring all ok. Juz tuned, this week monday, juz got back my bike, no adnormal symtoms.. the old problem solved. but then later tuesday nite, couldn't start. wif the help of a fazer rider uncle, managed to push start... but at that time got bike shop open meh.. I warmed up my bike did a few rounds, quite ok.... . Stopped and restart the bike(still hot), can start... but wednesday morning, couldn't start again. this time round found my throttle cable to be disconnected from the carbs. I meant disconnected. u use my finger to push the end connector back into position, any way, even when the cable is disconnected, the throttle "returns". but at the cable end theres no movement,

when throttle is "pulled"

 

So even if i push start the throttle is consider dead liao. cannot push start liao rite?

 

Tried every thing liao. head light, signal light, rear light, IU, all got power, and bright, start can hear a very strong cranking sound. Pulled choke to start also cannot, kill switch at "run". I did several push start, can see engine starting, but when pull throttle no response, then bike dies. There is a very strong petrol smell, no leakage, wasn't there in the past. the only observable error is the loose in responsive throttle cable connection.

 

Anyway, juz wan to clarify one point. The Fazer uncle told me that, push start is not the same as pressing the magic button. push start is to let the magneto takes over the starting process, anyway, dun quite understand but thats wat he says. Sianz, these fews days holiday, GH close...

[HAWK]

:cry:

[paiseh]

Originally posted by TheSquid@Feb 11 2005, 10:53 AM

kakakaka bout the same la.

i just changed a new clutch relay, $60 also. kekekekkee

ur clutch relay got add other things?

 

i changed at GH relay is $40.40 wif GST.

 

clutch cable is $27.70 wif GST

 

so total abt $68

[paiseh]

Originally posted by E-SAP-TEHTEK@Feb 11 2005, 02:21 PM

May I ask what is a clutch relay?? Where is it located??

its located at the end of the clutch cable, connecting the front sprocket. its a small funny shape thing, dunno how to describe.

 

i was told tat normall if ur clutch cable sensitivity drops, or move off not smooth, usually it is caused by the relay.

 

suprisingly, i changed my clutch plates bike still move forward abit, move off very rough. 3 weeks later i chang clucth relay which is 4 days ago, now bike in very good n smooth condition either whn moving off or stationary or even change gear, lower or upper at very low RPM n low speed

[paiseh]

Originally posted by HAWK@Feb 12 2005, 01:39 AM

well, my bike been in and out of GH this month, due to a persistent poor idling problem.. leading to engine stall at neutral or clutch in. I juz did my valve clearance, changed my ignition coil, pulser coil, The boss of GH tested my CDI ok... rectifier ok, fuses all ok... in short wiring all ok. Juz tuned, this week monday, juz got back my bike, no adnormal symtoms.. the old problem solved. but then later tuesday nite, couldn't start. wif the help of a fazer rider uncle, managed to push start... but at that time got bike shop open meh.. I warmed up my bike did a few rounds, quite ok.... . Stopped and restart the bike(still hot), can start... but wednesday morning, couldn't start again. this time round found my throttle cable to be disconnected from the carbs. I meant disconnected. u use my finger to push the end connector back into position, any way, even when the cable is disconnected, the throttle "returns". but at the cable end theres no movement,

when throttle is "pulled"

 

So even if i push start the throttle is consider dead liao. cannot push start liao rite?

 

Tried every thing liao. head light, signal light, rear light, IU, all got power, and bright, start can hear a very strong cranking sound. Pulled choke to start also cannot, kill switch at "run". I did several push start, can see engine starting, but when pull throttle no response, then bike dies. There is a very strong petrol smell, no leakage, wasn't there in the past. the only observable error is the loose in responsive throttle cable connection.

 

Anyway, juz wan to clarify one point. The Fazer uncle told me that, push start is not the same as pressing the magic button. push start is to let the magneto takes over the starting process, anyway, dun quite understand but thats wat he says. Sianz, these fews days holiday, GH close...

hmmm... i just went GH to do my clutch cable n relay.

 

were u there tis mon just b4 CNY?

[HAWK]

yup, went there ard evening time to collect. U shld hav seen my bike, yellow black color.

[HAWK]

Originally posted by paiseh@Feb 12 2005, 03:10 AM

hmmm... i just went GH to do my clutch cable n relay.

 

were u there tis mon just b4 CNY?

Haven seen ur bike in sch b4.. think caught a few glimpse of Arcfire bike in hall 6 b4.. i always bike my bike in S2. haiz... bike dwn leh... sianz:giddy: :giddy:

[Arcfire]

Abt the strong petrol smell i suggest you take a close look at your carbs......n look at your fuel c*** as well.... these are the most likely places to be leaking.......

For carbs its quite easy to spot, the area below the carbs you will be able to see some stains....or if u're unlucky...petrol dripping. Else look carefully at the fuel c***.....try sniff ard to determine the spot where the smell is strongest.....it'll give you a better idea of where is the problem coming from......

 

And most importantly...................................................................Dun smoke while you're at it....hahaha!