Rebuilding an R1 Engine

[Rahza]

bro... any updates????

[Marcheline]

bro... any updates????

Sorry dude, been really busy with my industrial attachment. But I've been ordering the parts that I need and they're coming in bit by bit. Items such as the stator, which would cost US$173 from the merchant, i managed to purchase brand new for US$47 from Ebay.

 

Will get busy with the rebuild come June.

[RYANS]

very good effort and patience.

 

feel the engine u rebuilt all by urself which no words can explain....

[Rahza]

damn.. ok bro.. will be waiting for updates....... been coming here almost everyday finding ur thread... lol

[Marcheline]

damn.. ok bro.. will be waiting for updates....... been coming here almost everyday finding ur thread... lol

Why not dismantle your ride? Then you can go home everyday to bike parts in your room..

 

 

Come June bro, come June..

[Rahza]

hahahaha... i cant even fix lego.. how to fix my bike??? later push 2 bikeshop with my parts in a box

[Nacromonger]

This is the best thread i've ever read since i join this forum

someone doing full overhaul by himself & this is his 1st time...RESPECT FOR U BRO...

save u alot of $ & gain knowledge abt what is going on inside the engine, is not like u going to get see inside the engine every now & then..

 

Can't wait to see the project completed

[Marcheline]

Parts have arrived about a month back. Bought them from America from a very cheap vendor (http://www.zanottimotor.com) and I have to say I'm impressed with their efficiency. I stocked up on random bolts and small items too and they shipped it out within 4 days of the order. This, compared to the Singapore distributor, who quoted me 6 weeks and that they don't do orders for small items such as bolts and screws.

 

List of new parts:

 

Piston Rings 4XV-11603-00-00 (US19.59 x 4)

Crankshaft Plane Bearings 3GM-11416-20-00 (US 9.61 x 8)

Crankshaft Plane Bearings 3GM-11416-10-00 (US 9.61 x 2)

Con-Rod Plane Bearings 3GM-11656-00-00 (US12.87 x 8)

Shift Shaft Springs 90501-064L1-00 (US 0.28 x 4)

Starter Motor Bolt 95817-06025-00 (US 0.91 x 2)

Timing Chain 94591-49130-00 (US26.82 x 1)

Oil Pump Chain 94580-25078-00 (US 5.78 x 1)

Generator Rotor Bolt 90105-105A6-00 (US 3.67 x 1)

Generator Rotor Washer 90201-103U7-00 (US 7.77 x 1)

Coolant Recovery Reservoir 4XV-21871-00-00 (US22.44 x 1)

 

 

Head Rubber Cap 4XV-28349-00-00 (US 4.18 x 1)

Side/Tail Fairing Screw 90154-05013-00 (US 1.30 x 4)

Head Fairing Screw 90164-05014-00 (US 1.12 x 2)

Front Fender Screw 90154-06061-00 (US 1.08 x 4)

Crankcase Breather Hose 90445-16416-00 (US 6.36 x 1)

Breather Hose Clip 1 90468-08104-00 (US 0.87 x 1)

Breather Hose Clip 2 90467-14015-00 (US 1.41 x 1)

Headlight Screw 97707-50016-00 (US 0.46 x 2)

Oil Pipe O-Ring 93210-14579-00 (US 1.16 x 2)

Tail Side Screw 90150-06036-00 (US 1.50 x 4)

Long Coolant Pipe O-Ring 1 93210-235A1-00 (US 2.03 x 1)

Long Coolant Pipe O-Ring 2 93210-27778-00 (US 2.84 x 1)

Coolant Pipe O-Ring 93210-47675-00 (US 2.37 x 1)

Coolant O-Ring 93210-18417-00 (US 1.44 x 2)

 

 

Cylinder Head Gasket 5PW-11181-00-00 (US33.40 x 1)

Cylinder Head Cover Gasket 5PW-11193-00-00 (US22.48 x 1)

Oil Pan Gasket 4XV-13414-00-00 (US 7.90 x 1)

Clutch Cover Gasket 4XV-15461-00-00 (US 4.62 x 1)

Timing Chain Cover Gasket 5JJ-15456-00-00 (US 3.18 x 1)

Generator Cover Gasket 4XV-15451-00-00 (US 3.52 x 1)

Tensioner Gasket 4FM-12213-00-00 (US 1.15 x 1)

Exhaust Pipe Gasket 4FM-14613-00-00 (US 4.59 x 4)

Shift Shaft Gasket 5JJ-15463-00-00 (US 3.43 x 1)

Coolant Distributor Gasket 4XV-13475-00-00 (US10.32 x 1)

 

Total of US$483.90 with shipping.

[Marcheline]

Spent the past few weekends cleaning up the crankcase with petrol and degreaser. Scraping the old gasket off with a razor blade and removing the sand within the crankcase (don't ask me how it got there!).

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0157.jpg

 

Also poured petrol into the cylinder head (which houses all the valves) and no visible leakage was noted. I may not have to remove the valves and perform lapping after all. Just need to check the valve clearance.

 

Started to assemble the main transmission last night.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0159.jpg

 

The 3 bolts have to be thread locked with red loctite. Kinda surprised at the rapid curing time. Was torque-ing it to spec (12 Nm) and it already binded.

 

Carried on with the shift forks.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0160.jpg

 

The shift drum is connected to the gear shift lever. Everytime you kick up or down, the shift fork cam follower will follow the grooves in the shift drum and engage the proper gear. The pinion gear numbers are all labelled as above. Note that these are the driven gears.

 

Gears 3 & 4 come in one solid assembly and move left and right following the shift fork.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0161.jpg

 

By the way, the picture is misleading. The shift fork for the pinion gear is to be installed inside. The 2 other shift forks for the drive transmission will be installed in its place.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0163.jpg

That's all for today, folks.

 

It's a slow but enjoyable learning process.

Edited May 26, 2010 by Marcheline

[Terrible One]

Awesome. I do wonder what your gf had to say about all these stuff in the bedroom. LOL

[HaiR1]

uppppzzzz for u lah ........

[Marcheline]

Replaced the springs on the shift fork guide bar cos the old ones were kinda soft.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0164.jpg

 

And both shift fork guide bars are in! Installing the one inside was a bit tricky cos you have to squint your eyes through a small hole to see that the shaft matches up to the shift fork hole.

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/DSCF0165.jpg

 

It's really interesting how they designed the shift mechanism, which I'm sure is a standard in most bikes. Turning the shift drum moves the 3 different shift forks, thereby engaging the gears that you desire.

 

[Marcheline]

Awesome. I do wonder what your gf had to say about all these stuff in the bedroom. LOL

 

Lol. Then what of my plans to convert a room in my house into a fully equipped quasi-garage once I'm married? I'd probably get murdered?

 

 

The teardown was painfully slow, but I didn't really take the time to appreciate how the different small parts really work to make the entire engine.

 

The rebuild, therefore, will be terribly slow so I can appreciate the design better.

 

[Marcheline]

Hit a major snag. Was about to install the pistons in, so I cleaned up the cylinder of the dirt and oil stains and discovered a 2cm crack from the top of the cylinder, affecting the thin nikasil layer.

 

Anyone here knows a machine shop that can perform a rebore and re-plate of the 2mm nikasil or alusil layer in the cylinder?

 

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af182/wadafark/Crack.jpg

[Marcheline]

Project is going on indefinite hold. Seems there are no local companies that perform nikasil re-plating. Nearest one is Electrosil in Australia, but charges more than Millenium in America.

 

Shipping a 10kg top crankcase. Hellooo... Shipping~

 

[ulysses_sc]

Seems like you have already invested much time and money into the project. Why not bite the bullet and send it for re-plating, or get a new block altogether?

[Marcheline]

I will be re-plating it, just not so soon.

 

A new block costs US$1,600. Replating all 4 cylinders cost US$450. Shipping to and fro would add to roughly US$200.

 

This makes me wonder, has anyone ever looked into the viability of opening an electro-plating business in Singapore, dealing with Nikasil and Alusil, since it's the standard in modern engines now? I'm pretty sure plenty of motor-vehicles require repairs to their engine cylinders.

Edited May 31, 2010 by Marcheline

[aRcHeR]

I will be re-plating it, just not so soon.

 

A new block costs US$1,600. Replating all 4 cylinders cost US$450. Shipping to and fro would add to roughly US$200.

 

This makes me wonder, has anyone ever looked into the viability of opening an electro-plating business in Singapore, dealing with Nikasil and Alusil, since it's the standard in modern engines now? I'm pretty sure plenty of motor-vehicles require repairs to their engine cylinders.

 

market demand isn't really there.. vehicle owners usually change their cars every 3 years or so..

 

other components, yes. but engine cylinders, i'm not quite sure since they dun really have the liberty to rev as hard as bikes even on local roads..

[spiderman]

I will be re-plating it, just not so soon.

 

A new block costs US$1,600. Replating all 4 cylinders cost US$450. Shipping to and fro would add to roughly US$200.

 

This makes me wonder, has anyone ever looked into the viability of opening an electro-plating business in Singapore, dealing with Nikasil and Alusil, since it's the standard in modern engines now? I'm pretty sure plenty of motor-vehicles require repairs to their engine cylinders.

 

Well since u are going to replate the bore. Might as well get the aftermarket pistons with bigger bore size so u can consider it as a modification rather then just replating to the same size but of cos after that u will need to readjust the AFR again for the bigger engine capacity. I must say u are pretty daring for a first timer in overhauling a 4 stroke engine which is a bit more complicated than a 2 stroke. Nice to know that there are singaporeans doing this too.

[Marcheline]

Well since u are going to replate the bore. Might as well get the aftermarket pistons with bigger bore size so u can consider it as a modification rather then just replating to the same size but of cos after that u will need to readjust the AFR again for the bigger engine capacity. I must say u are pretty daring for a first timer in overhauling a 4 stroke engine which is a bit more complicated than a 2 stroke. Nice to know that there are singaporeans doing this too.

 

Lol. I could just imagine an R1.1 or R1.2.. I'll see how it goes.

 

[li_gangyi]

New here, hope I'm not too late.

 

Looks to me like the engine uses some kinda sleeve from the crack. Might be possible to get a replacement sleeve from overseas. Get the original sleeve machined out, installed and then the surface machined. Should still work out cheaper then trying to ship the entire block.

[Marcheline]

It's not a sleeve. The entire block is made of aluminium, with the exception of the bore, which is coated with a very thin layer of Nickel Silicon Carbide, which prevents the aluminium block from being worn out from the cyclical motion of the piston moving in the cylinder.

 

A sleeve would be a disaster in modern high rev engines. The different heat transfer properties of the sleeve and block would probably result in poor overall performance and a shorter lifespan.

[li_gangyi]

R6es are sleeved, at least I know the early ones were, that might've changed.

 

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-warranty-premature-failure/35530-piece-cylinder-sleeve-missing-pics.html

[li_gangyi]

Not sure if that year's engine had sleeves, but I've seen R6 engines with sleeves factory installed, or cast in.

 

In theory sleeves will work fine as long as

1. You have a good enough interference fit.

2. The sleeve material expands the same as the base material.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/scooter6/Cylinder2.jpg

[mild_slevin]

mind ask what's the problem with this engine when u first bought it?