[Trip Report] Solo Ride to SG-Northern Thai-Laos from 25th July to 4th Aug 2010

[papabread79]

[solo Ride] Singapore-Thung Sun-Phetchaburi_Mae Sot-Mae Hong Son-Mae Sai-Oudom Xai-Luang Prabang-Udon Thani-59km from Khon Kaen

 

Supposedly, this was to be a trip with 3 others but due to unforeseen circumstances and work commitment, they were not able to make it. Having planned my leaves way in advance and also due to other events coming up in the near future, I decided to go ahead with it alone, not knowing full well how much of an adventure, risks and fun I would encounter along the way.

 

If the 3 others would have made it, I am very sure an identical photo like below (but with SG number plates) would have been taken with a picturusque background somewhere in Thailand or Laos.

 

http://i36.tinypic.com/i70mzk.jpg

 

Day 1 – SG to Thung Sun

Left SG early abt 11pm and set off for my first stop for the nite, Thung Sun, slightly above Hat Yai. Seems like a Herculean task initially since its about 1000km away, but made it safe and reached in the early afternoon. Was able to go fast partly due to it being mostly night riding.

 

3 stops along the way at Ayer Keroh, Rawang and Semanggol. Pretty much uneventful.

 

Stayed at a not-so-good hotel (Thiam Fah Hotel) because it does not have wifi, or even internet access. Boringness! Walked around the area since it wasn’t dark yet and took some boring pics. Made friend with a local by the name of Put, a Thai soldier, and he brought me out to Tesco Lotus for dinner and Swensen’s ice-cream.

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Day 2 – Thung Sun to Phetchaburi

Set off early, and along the way, took pic with the golden bird.

 

http://i35.tinypic.com/5a1irn.jpg

 

Nothing much, just for memory sake. Nothing eventful also for this leg. Reached Happy Inn. Has wifi in the room, so at least I could read the news and catch up with certain things.

 

http://i34.tinypic.com/2uqeueu.jpg

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Day 3 – Phetchaburi to Mae Sot

 

Mae Sot lies to the west of Thailand and I had initially thought that the fun would only start after Mae Sot. But how wrong was i. The road to here was quite (using the word quite because there more to come) twisty and the rain made it even worse, can’t go fast.

 

Reached the hotel, complete with wifi and had a good rest, except for the fact that food was hard to find.

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Day 4 - Mae Sot to Mae Hong Son

 

Before I left for MHS, I went to the checkpoint of Thai-Myanmar. Soldiers were guarding the boundary. Took some pics and left for MHS.

 

Along the way, saw the area where the Burmese refugees were allowed to stay in Thailand. These refugees escape from Burmese where there are frequent internal strifes etc and so the International Rescue Committee (IRC) has been aiding these few thousands of people in various camps in Thailand. The one I passed is just one of them. U can read more about them here, just one of the link I found.

 

Burmese refugees in Thailand

 

Here’s a pic of how the huts/shelter areas look like.

 

http://i29.tinypic.com/264i0yr.jpg

 

The journey was filled with many sections where rain dropped and I had no choice but to go slow. One of the best section was here when there was mist all over, no one around me, and visibility was down to about 40 metres or so. Cant get this in SG definitely.

 

http://i30.tinypic.com/2u7ajop.jpg

 

Even though I had managed to avoid dropping my bike at other difficult potholed-section before this, perhaps I was too tired when going up this particular slope and had a lapse of concentration. Dropped my bike stupidly and was unable to lift it up by myself of course. Sat at the side for about 20mins until a kind Thai guy on a cub kia arrived and assisted to lift it up together. Thank god I didn’t have to wait for like 1-2hours!

 

[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ-NavdxboY[/yt]

 

http://i26.tinypic.com/34iiwjb.jpg

 

When I reached MHS, all I wanted to do was just to rest! Very very tiring, difficult road (esp from Mae Sot to Mae Sariang) and really had to go slow!

Edited August 5, 2010 by papabread79

[papabread79]

Day 5 – MHS to Mae Sai

 

MHS to Mae Sai was not eventful, except for the occasional rain. Before I left, I took pic of the Chamber of Commerce, where we are supposed to go to make the certificates. It is just beside the Baiyok Hotel.

 

http://i37.tinypic.com/2ibj2bl.jpg

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Day 6 – Mae Sai to Oudom Xai

 

This is the section that got me real scared. And had wished I had not entered Laos at all! Firstly, to get to Chiang Kong, I went the right route, but was told that some distance ahead from the picture below, the water depth was near waist level. I had to u-turn and take on another route to Chiang Saen. My tyres were basically fish-tailing throughout this section and had to go real slow.

 

http://i38.tinypic.com/bg8aww.jpg

 

When I reached Chiang Kong, I had some difficulty locating the checkpoint control. Its over at one end of the street and had to go down a slope.

 

http://i38.tinypic.com/9gycmv.jpg

 

I had to fork out 500THB to ferry my bike over via the barge (?).

 

http://i33.tinypic.com/mkkf8z.jpg

 

[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY0gxuCdLQ4[/yt]

 

Once there, the customs took like forever to get my passport chopped! Wasted so much precious time here.

 

http://i35.tinypic.com/166gd4l.jpg

 

Proceeded on to Oudom Xai, and it was a ride I nvr wish to do again. Road was very very bad, gravel, potholes and I had to ride in pitch dark for 4hrs till 1030pm! It got worse after the right/left turn, where turning left would lead u to Boten. I cant see anything in front of me and there was no one riding with me. Hellish!!!! Very dangerous and a scary thought knowing that im all alone.

 

I advise those who want to go thru this section, better do it way way early in the morning!

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Day 7 – Oudom Xai to Luang Prabang

 

Had wanted to leave early, but since my bike has shown the “EO low” indicator, I thought it would be good to have a change of EO. This is when a catastrophic chain of events start.

 

B4 I left for LP, I went to this mechanic, who was not so experience in dealing with my bike. Not wanting to lengthen this story, in short, I was running without gear oil for the next 200km!!! Bike rattled, clunked, whirred throughout my journey to LP!

 

http://i38.tinypic.com/2qjitmo.jpg

 

A mistake I truly regret.

 

LP is a UNESCO World Heritage City, awarded in 1995. Its such a beautiful town and you can even get ur Oreo Milk Shake here! The shophouses look very rustic and could rival ours at Boat/Clarke Quays.

 

http://i35.tinypic.com/9as8c7.jpg

 

There is also a night market at the end of the street. My guesthouse was just beside the mighty Mekong River! But since its becoming more and more touristy, the accommodation isn’t really that cheap.

 

http://i38.tinypic.com/28k56pu.jpg

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Day 8 – Luang Prabang to Udon Thani

 

I took a pic of the Mekong River b4 I left. Am surprised that this river passed through 5 countries.

 

http://i37.tinypic.com/311w1tj.jpg

 

I knew my bike was starting to give problem and so I die2 had wanted to leave Laos and get onto Thailand! Simply because Laos has no BMW Service Ctr at all! Wished I could have stayed at Vang Vieng though, but bearing this in mind, I felt that better I escape from Laos as soon as possible.

 

But surpises after surprises b4 I could even make my way to Thailand! A landslide had occurred and it blocked the whole road! This is the only highway for the whole of Laos and u can imagine the frustrations of those tourist buses’ drivers etc.

 

http://i34.tinypic.com/29p5102.jpg

 

The locals said that it would probably take 4-5hrs for the excavators to arrive and clear up this mess. Simply because there are 2 other landslides! I was shocked! I had to get to Thai b4 dark!

 

Drawing on my past experiences taking part in Romaniacs, I attempted to clear the landslide. I knew I could do it, but since the locals offered to help at the expense of 50,000kips, I took up their offer. Money does make the world go round.

 

I manage to pass the landslide and took a pic with the guys who helped me. To be honest, they are not as small as they are compared to me in the pic.

 

http://i34.tinypic.com/292vfx2.jpg

 

I made my way to Vientiane, and was stopped again by another landslide!

 

http://i37.tinypic.com/2pq1ci9.jpg

 

This is seriously crazy. Never had I considered the possibility of a landslide occurring before departing on this trip. But at the same time, nvr have I thot that Laos has such beautiful scenery along the journey. They are much, much better than those in northern Thailand! Its worth a journey into Laos!

 

http://i37.tinypic.com/funfhc.jpg

 

I proceeded on with a half-dead bike and manage to reach Udon Thani.

 

Had researched that there was a BMW showroom in Udon Thani, but when I asked a local, I was told that its not for Motorrad. BMW BKK was… 700+km away….

 

Spent a night at Udon Thani and figured what to do the next day.

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Day 9 – Udon Thani to….

 

Soldiered on to BKK as I thought my bike could make it all the way. About 60km from Khon Kaen, bike broke down. Able to start and throttle, but wheels are not moving. Called BMW BKK for tow, was told it can only arrive in 6hrs. And another 6hrs back to BKK. It was 1230pm and I was in the middle of nowhere on Highway 2. BMW staff (thumbs up to Mr Keng!) offered to look for a private tow svc and I was lucky he was in Nakhon Ratchasima and arrived in 2hrs. I slept in the drain between the opposing directions under a tree while waiting for his arrival. Hitched a ride to Barcelona Motors in BKK and spend a nite there.

 

Thumbs up to Mr Gary!

 

http://i37.tinypic.com/5ckkll.jpg

 

Private tow service is so much cheaper than BMW’s!

[papabread79]

Day 10 – Jetstar to SG!

 

Went down to Barcelona Motors again the next morning and spoke to the consultant. Bike was only able to be stripped either on Thurs or Fri, so I decided to make my way back to SG on a flight.

[papabread79]

All i can say is, its crazy. Better not to enter Laos alone. And do not allow Laos mechanics to touch ur bike.

 

Apart from that, enjoy the twisty roads, beautiful scenery and nice ppl.

 

Always always have loads of cash handy.

[G450X]

Yo Bro, it looks like you had a whale of a time. Well done for your trip. I am sure the one ride into Sg Selai with your friends did the trick of somehow prepare u for the trip. The falls in Sg Selai was an experience huh? The pictures you took do remind me of the same route I took except the other way round inclusive of Cambodia.

 

If you have asked me, I would have advised you to make the trip on the best months (Nov to Feb) cool and dry. Would also have advised you to fix Continental TC90 off road tires before you went. Looks like the roads from Huayxai to LP is still messy huh?

 

Anyway, you made it and just to ask, where is the bike now? Still in BKK?

 

So when you want to go again? I am game......Want to go in Endau Rompin Kg Peta soon?

[papabread79]

  G450X said:

Yo Bro, it looks like you had a whale of a time. Well done for your trip. I am sure the one ride into Sg Selai with your friends did the trick of somehow prepare u for the trip. The falls in Sg Selai was an experience huh? The pictures you took do remind me of the same route I took except the other way round inclusive of Cambodia.

 

If you have asked me, I would have advised you to make the trip on the best months (Nov to Feb) cool and dry. Would also have advised you to fix Continental TC90 off road tires before you went. Looks like the roads from Huayxai to LP is still messy huh?

 

Anyway, you made it and just to ask, where is the bike now? Still in BKK?

 

So when you want to go again? I am game......Want to go in Endau Rompin Kg Peta soon?

I wished i had the time to enter Cambo n visit Angkor Wat again, but work does not permit.

 

My fren's TKC80 are at my hse, but along the way, i figured that it would be more apt to use road tyres still. Only certain sections where the off-rd tyres would prove vital, but the highway sections, i feel that we shd stick with rd tyres, no?

 

Bike at Barcelona Motors now. Kg Peta? Wait till bike ready i suppose.

 

Anyway, i did read abt ur long trip. Amazing. Urs a bigger whale.

[G450X]

  papabread79 said:

I wished i had the time to enter Cambo n visit Angkor Wat again, but work does not permit.

 

My fren's TKC80 are at my hse, but along the way, i figured that it would be more apt to use road tyres still. Only certain sections where the off-rd tyres would prove vital, but the highway sections, i feel that we shd stick with rd tyres, no?

 

Bike at Barcelona Motors now. Kg Peta? Wait till bike ready i suppose.

 

Anyway, i did read abt ur long trip. Amazing. Urs a bigger whale.

 

Well the TKC80 tyres are in fact the BMW official off road tyres. I did my trip with them and I never regretted. It works when I went thru those 20 over km of pebble road at south of Laos as well as during the ride from LP to Namtha and Huayxai.

 

When we go in to Kg Peta next (when ur bike is back), use the tyres and you will feel the diff. In fact its just a 50-50 concept. On the main highways, there's no much diff too.

 

I can only say is that we should be prepared for unknown terrain.

 

Aniway kudos to your ride.

[MiCmAsTa]

We shall do it one more time using the same routes!!!!

[ninjapura]

hmm... burmese refugee camp... and the road towards mae sariang still full of pot hole?? haha... reminded me of my past trip... nice memory...

 

ya that time me from mae sot to mae sarianf also super heavy rain... plus the road super bad n slippry full of road tar super stress... somemore most of the time I am only alone on the road... no mobile network too quite scary...

Edited August 5, 2010 by ninjapura

[pipipapipu]

very inspiring.. 2 thumbs up!

 

hope the rainy weather subsides by the end of the month...

[Gr8White]

another singapore idol...

[shong]

next time if u go on vehicle ferry (chiang khong - huay xai), say u dont have 500 baht, the ferry would charge a reasonable amount (400 baht) instead of full amount. May save u few bucks.

[androm3da]

Wow, nice photos~

 

Guess u had lotsa fun despite some problems u had along the way.. Quite a rushed trip tho..

[kmax]

good to have you back paparoti and thanks for the photos....

 

i havent leave singapore yet (due to some issue with my passport) but my other 2 friends have gone up to MHS.

[papabread79]

  androm3da said:

Wow, nice photos~

 

Guess u had lotsa fun despite some problems u had along the way.. Quite a rushed trip tho..

Thank you sir. Rushed.. kinda. Not the kind who likes to visit caves, temples, night markets, shopping etc.

 

Just pure riding.

 

  kmax said:

good to have you back paparoti and thanks for the photos....

 

i havent leave singapore yet (due to some issue with my passport) but my other 2 friends have gone up to MHS.

Thank you sir.

 

U r goin up MHS too to meet up with them?

[Guapo]

Moral of the story.....Ride a Honda Wave to Laos instead.

[SilverBullet]

Hi Mahdi,

 

Welcome back and good to know you are OK.

We all learn from either our own experience or the experiences of others.

Thanks for sharing your SOLO adv trip(Very Hero).

 

Desmond

[papabread79]

  Guapo said:

Moral of the story.....Ride a Honda Wave to Laos instead.

I think so too. Wave is a better option.

 

  SilverBullet said:

Hi Mahdi,

 

Welcome back and good to know you are OK.

We all learn from either our own experience or the experiences of others.

Thanks for sharing your SOLO adv trip(Very Hero).

 

Desmond

Hi Desmond,

 

Thanks. Perhaps i could have gone faster if ive borrowed ur LV muffler hah.

 

Hoho.