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Posted

It might be your starter not engaging, since you claim that the starter sounds the same. There's a system that push the starter gear out to engage to your magnet gear. Try take the starter out and see if the starter gear push out when you crank it.

Time for a bigger bike....

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Posted (edited)
It might be your starter not engaging, since you claim that the starter sounds the same. There's a system that push the starter gear out to engage to your magnet gear. Try take the starter out and see if the starter gear push out when you crank it.

 

Hmm, can you describe to me the sound if the starter motor turns without a load and with a load? Because from my understanding,

 

Starter motor with no load --> "Whrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" (Just sounds like a motor turning)

Starter motor with load --> "Eh-HEH, Eh-HEH, Eh-HEH, Eh-HEH, Eh-HEH." (This is what i am hearing)

 

Is this analysis correct?

 

If the gear does not engage, then i will hear a "Whrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" sound like in this video right?

[video=youtube;_Xqi-Wu8aF8]

Edited by crazydj

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted (edited)

phantom riders pay $70 to have the bushings..replaced...

these are the parts take need to be replaced with usage..the brushes do wear down...

the other parts seldom has problem..of course the solenoid that engages the fly wheel could be bad..or the stater gear bad...or you just have a bad battery...

Edited by ezzyoiler

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted (edited)

if the gear cannot engage properly..either a weak solenoid or damage gear....you will hear the gears clashing with each other..how it sound?? gnashing sound...maybe gpoke a rod into a turning fan..something like that. or try changing gears on your bike without using the clutch slowly and this is the sound of a bad gear or meshing of gears..at your own risk..

Edited by ezzyoiler

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted

TS forget abt the electric start since kick start is working fine, save $$ and agony of cracking your brain to think, just use abit of leg power and treat it as a form of exercise to strength your heath.

 

In your other thread you have mentioned other problem of your bike not able to idle properly and you have to adjust the idling speed to 2000rpm, this could link to your difficulty to electric start. I suggest you start with the easier things first by checking your air filter to see if its clog with dirt, inspect the carburetor jet to see if its choke then check your cylinder compression pressure. After which check the carbon brush condition, if all is where inspect the transmission gears. If still unable to resolve yourself, send to bike shop or scrap to buy another bike.

 

Btw my bike is up for sale, if you are interested, fully service and most wear and tear part replace, engine and gear transmission silky smooth, no oil leak, powerful engine and fuel economy.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted
TS forget abt the electric start since kick start is working fine, save $$ and agony of cracking your brain to think, just use abit of leg power and treat it as a form of exercise to strength your heath.

 

In your other thread you have mentioned other problem of your bike not able to idle properly and you have to adjust the idling speed to 2000rpm, this could link to your difficulty to electric start. I suggest you start with the easier things first by checking your air filter to see if its clog with dirt, inspect the carburetor jet to see if its choke then check your cylinder compression pressure. After which check the carbon brush condition, if all is where inspect the transmission gears. If still unable to resolve yourself, send to bike shop or scrap to buy another bike.

 

Btw my bike is up for sale, if you are interested, fully service and most wear and tear part replace, engine and gear transmission silky smooth, no oil leak, powerful engine and fuel economy.

 

Thanks. Selling your Impulse ah?

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted
Thanks. Selling your Impulse ah?

 

Yes Suzuki Impulse 400cc up for sale, reliable work horse serve me well for the past 1 year.

 

Wanted to try riding other bikes.

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

It sounds like your motor is turning over? So I guess that rules out the starter solenoid, starter clutch and starter gear (or maybe not). Here's how I would approach it.

 

1) Pull out the main fuse and give it an eyeballing. Shouldn't be the problem since your motor is cranking, but it's a simple check.

2) Starting from fresh (i.e. after you've ridden the bike, parked it, cooled down), I'd hit the starter a few times to turn over the motor.

3) Pull the spark plugs, but keep the cables connected. Look at the plugs. Are they wet? They should be from the few cranks. If they're not, the bike's not getting fuel. So diagnose the fuel system.

4) Going one by one, ground the plugs on the cylinder head where there is bare metal, and hit the starter button. Is there a bright strong blue spark? Check each plug to see it's good.

 

My other suspicion would be the starter motor assembly, since you said you can start with the kickstarter without any problems. Maybe the starter clutch is slipping a little and not turning over the motor fast enough (it needs 85 -150 rpms), or the pinion gear is not sticking out fully to engage the ring gear. If so then you'll need to troubleshoot the ignition wiring system and the starter motor assembly. A more unlikely option is that either the pinion or the crankshaft tooth is worn, in which case you'll hear a grinding sound.

 

I also don't think it's the bush. If the bush is bad, you'll get a ticking sound.

Edited by MiddleAgedBiker
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys!

 

Just to update you guys on my problem.

 

Background story:-

- Bike has major difficulty electric starting, but when i kick start, engine comes to life in 1-2 kicks.

- On cold mornings, when i start the engine, the engine will die after 20 seconds, but it has a long time before it dies, giving me ample time to rev the engine.

- Pulling the choke is not needed in any circumstance.

- When bike is nice and warm, idling will be at 1.5k to 1.6k. Hot, it would be at 2k.

 

What happened:-

- I went to the mech to wash my carburerator. After my carb was washed, my mech discovered that the rubber ring to seal the carb to the engine has worn out.

- Mech said that it was because of that rubber ring, my engine keep dying.

- Mech also checked that the spark from my ignition coil was very weak when using the electric start but very strong when using the kick start.

- As i rode back, my engine started to die off now and then if i am idle at traffic light, even thought i am 5km away from my mech. Engine stalled within 2 sec warning, either clutched in slowing down or idling at traffic light. Happened twice.

 

- Next day, i went back, my mech installed a fuel filter attached to my fuel line and installed a new rubber ring to seal the carb to the engine.

- From then onwards, my engine will die off in the morning, within 3 seconds. I have to rev the engine for a long long time, slowly, to even let it stabilize at about 15 seconds before the engine dies.

- Even if i have traveled for kilometers, engine would spontaneously die when at idle or clutch in, giving less that a second notice. Almost instant engine death.

- Now evertime when i start my bike, for the first few kilometers, as long as i am not on a highway opening my throttle, the engine will "want" to die. Constant revving is required.

- When i rev my engine, the light becomes slightly brighter, but not to the extent like those Ah Pek rev then the light become super bright. Barely noticeable.

 

Could it be the Generator(Stator Assembly), which is to convert the AC to DC? I just changed this last 2 years in April 2009.

 

Any ideas on what could be the causes of my bike's erratic behaviour?

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

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