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Posted
Originally posted by fat grape@Sep 10 2004, 10:15 PM

hey, wat idling rpm did u guys set huh? mine at 1k rpm, but occasionally while i m gliding(10km/h) along the road while clutch in (ie parking my bike) the engine will die off. ani one experience tis b4?

mine at 1.2k...heard from my 03r1 fren say muz tune efi all this to make it stable..oso check out the suzuki riders thread..where u find the service manual last time?

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Posted
Originally posted by fat grape@Sep 10 2004, 10:15 PM

hey, wat idling rpm did u guys set huh? mine at 1k rpm, but occasionally while i m gliding(10km/h) along the road while clutch in (ie parking my bike) the engine will die off. ani one experience tis b4?

Yes 1k is too low, will cause engine to die off while "gliding" and sometimes at traffic lights while idling.

 

Tune it to 1.2 - 1.4k RPM, as recommended by the owner's manual. :goodluck:

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Posted
Originally posted by MC28@Sep 11 2004, 12:18 AM

mine at 1.2k...heard from my 03r1 fren say muz tune efi all this to make it stable..oso check out the suzuki riders thread..where u find the service manual last time?

thanks guys, regarding the service manual i oni haf tat section on adjustment of headlights. but if u guys r interested in the manual, i haf lobang.

 

1 copy for us$40

8 copies for us$280

 

shipping fees

1 copy us$15

2 copies us$20

3 copies us$30

4 copies or more us$55

 

Each manual includes a Table of Contents and index which include an exploded view of parts disassembly sequence, bolt torques, thread sizes, and page references to descriptions in text. Repair instruction includes disassembly/reassembly, inspection, testing/troubleshooting, repair and adjustments with information on Special Tools, Specifications, Fault Codes, Maintenance Schedule, Engine, Engine Cooling, Fuel/Emissions, Steering, Suspension, Brakes and body. References are at the bottom in the form of hyperlinks.

 

supplier said: 'DELIVERED in 7-10 days, factory OEM Spec, 100% money back if not satisfied'

 

mayb we could juz split the cost and order 1 copy, then we could fotocopy in spore, i tink it would b cheaper tis way.

Posted

Actually juz curious, what kind of repairs or modifications do u guys want to do to ur bikes that requires the manual?

 

:sweat:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Sep 12 2004, 01:02 PM

Actually juz curious, what kind of repairs or modifications do u guys want to do to ur bikes that requires the manual?

 

:sweat:

speedo lights wiring...i waiting for gixxer.com to release the k4 manual in pdf form..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MC28@Sep 12 2004, 09:12 PM

speedo lights wiring...i waiting for gixxer.com to release the k4 manual in pdf form..

What mod are u doing to ur speedo lights? Change the colour from stock orange to some stylo colour? :cheeky:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

What You Need to Know All Abt R1......

 

YAMAHA YZF R1

 

In 1998,Yamaha launched the YZF-R1 after redesigning the Genesis engine to offset the crankshaft, gearbox input and output shafts and this "compacting" of the engine yielded a huge dividend in that the total engine length was now very short. This allowed the wheelbase to be shortened significantly which resulted in much quicker handling and an optimized center of gravity.

 

In 2000, Yamaha introduced a series of changes to improve the bike, plus minor changes to the body work to allow for better long duration ride handling. The R1 was an excellent bike to live with on short runs, but due to its quick handling was not a favorite longer run bike. Yamaha's main design goal was to sharpen the pre-existing bike and not redesign it. Even so they instituted over 150 changes in hopes of making an already light, sleek and mean motorcycle even lighter, sleeker and meaner. For example, even with the addition of the new Air Induction System, which weighs four pounds, the overall weight of the bike is down five pounds to a claimed 385 pounds dry. At a claimed 150 horsepower at the crank, top-end output remains the same but changes to the engine management system are supposed to result in a smoother, broader distribution of power.The bodywork is still unmistakably R1 although a few changes were made resulting in a 3% reduction in the drag coefficient. The headlight housing has a sharper profile, the side panels are more aerodynamic and slippery and the windscreen has been reshaped for better rider protection. In fact the bodywork changed so much that bodywork from previous R1s will not fit the Y2K edition.

 

With the competition advancing, Yamaha took to a major development. This included style updates like an underseat exhaust, and performance upgrades including radial brakes and for the first time on an R1 Ram-air intake. Furthermore, the wheelie-tendency known from earlier productions is drastically reduced by changing frame geometry and weight properties. The all new engine (no longer used as a stressed member of the chassis) featured a separate top crankcase and cylinder block. The 2004 R1 produces a stated 172 hp at the crankshaft (excluding RamAir) and also weighs 172 kilograms. Also newly added for this year was a factory installed steering damper.

 

In 2006, Yamaha is now mated with 180 hp at the flywheel. In addition, due to acceleration instability, the swingarm was extended 20 mm longer. Also, in 2006 the 50th anniversary of Yamaha racing in America, Yamaha released a Limited Edition yellow/white/black bike in original Yamaha racing colors. They also made a limited edition model (LE/SP) featuring a Kenny Roberts replica paint pattern with yellow and black paint, front and rear custom Öhlins suspension units developed by the people who work on the YZR-M1 MotoGP bike. Custom forged aluminum Marchesini wheels specifically designed for the LE remove nearly a pound of unsprung weight. A back torque-limiting slipper clutch, , Brembo brakes, and an integrated lap timer switch on the right handle bar round out the package making the LE more of a production racer. It has an MSRP of $17,999 and only 500 units were made for the United States.

 

An all-new YZF-R1 for the 2007 model year was announced on 9 October, 2006. Key features include an all-new inline four-cylinder engine; going back to a more conventional 4-valve per cylinder rather than Yamaha's trade mark 5-valve genesis layout. Other new features are the Yamaha Chip Control Intake (YCC-I) electronic variable-length intake funnel system, Yamaha Chip Control Throttle (YCC-T) fly-by-wire throttle system, slipper-type clutch, all-new aluminum Deltabox frame and swingarm, six-piston radial-mount front brake calipers with 310 mm discs, a wider radiator, and M1 styling on the new large ram-air ports in the front fairing. 2008 brought BNG and the ability to buy limited edition Fiat plastics.

 

In late 2008 Yamaha announced they would release an all new R1 for 2009. The new R1 takes engine technology from the M1 Moto GP bike with its crossplane crankshaft, the first ever production motorcycle to do so. Crossplane technology, puts each connecting rod 90° from the next, with an uneven firing interval of 270°- 180°- 90°- 180°. The idea of this technology is to reduce internal crankshaft torque, thus giving the new R1 a more linear power delivery. Yamaha claims the bike would give the rider 'two engines in one', the low torque of a twin and the pace of an inline four. As with previous incarnations of the R1 the 2009 model keeps its YCC-T (Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle)

 

Another advancement included on the 09 model is D-Mode Throttle Control Valve Mapping which allows a rider to choose between 3 distinct maps depending on the rider’s environment. Each mode of operation controls YCC-T characteristics changing how the R1 reacts to driver input. The first mode is Standard Mode, which delivers performance for a wide variety of driving conditions. The second mode is "A" mode which will give a rider more available power in the lower to middle RPM range. The 3rd mode is "B" mode, which is a dial back of the previous mode, designed to soften throttle response in inclement weather and heavy traffic. D-Mode throttle control is controlled via the rider through a forward mode button near the throttle.

 

Overall handling of the R1 was improved through several changes to frame and suspension. A new sub frame was designed for the 09 R1 which is magnesium cast in a carbon fiber mold. This new sub frame offers superior strength to weight ratio, while helping keep mass closer to the center of gravity and subsequently gives the bike greater handling performance. The rear shock on the 09 offers variable speed damping as well as an easy to tweak preload via a screw adjustment. The rear shock now connects underneath the swing arm through different linkage; a change from previous years models. Front suspension takes its cues from the M1 as the left fork handles compression damping while the right controls the rebound duties. As an added bonus to overall handling and safety, this is the first year Yamaha developers included an electronic steering damper on a production R1.

 

The overall look of the R1 has changed drastically relative to a side by side comparison between last year’s model and the 09. To the eye, the 09 looks much more compact and could be compared to the size of the R6r. The center up exhaust on the 09 as compared to previous years seems significantly larger compared to previous years, due in some respects to changes in emissions controls. The front has the same classic r1 shape, though the air intake location and headlamp design have been revamped on the 09 model; utilizing only projector lamps and using the new found design space within the nose cone to reroute ram air tubes next the lights. Four color schemes have been released for the 09 Model: Blue/Black; Red/black; White/Red; Yellow/Black

Edited by 299

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"But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. Now if you know what you're worth then go out and get what you're worth."

Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Sep 13 2004, 12:30 AM

What mod are u doing to ur speedo lights? Change the colour from stock orange to some stylo colour? :cheeky:

ya..feel like doing that..

 

http://www.bluegauges.com/images/tachcolors/gsxr/gsxr306.jpg

 

nice right?but have to take a risk of the speedo...

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MC28@Sep 23 2004, 05:21 PM

ya..feel like doing that..

 

nice right?but have to take a risk of the speedo...

I agree itz a risk of putting ur speedo/tacho out of calibration, meaning wun be so accurate..

 

But itz nice!! :thumb:

 

What other colours, and who can do it?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Sep 24 2004, 01:33 AM

I agree itz a risk of putting ur speedo/tacho out of calibration, meaning wun be so accurate..

 

But itz nice!! :thumb:

 

What other colours, and who can do it?

the LED which is use for the speedo is similiar to ur hp LED's...that bluegauge is from the US..tink sg nobody is doing it...they got a diagram teaching u how to do on a k1...for digital speedo is ok lehz..they teach u how to calibrate back ur tacho..the risky part is actually soldering something onto the PCB itself...

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

would like to ask u guys, do u encounter an "eeee eee" sound at the rear brake disc when u r travelling at very low speed & when u r braking hard?

izzit because the original brake pad is no gd? necessary to change it?

 

advice anyone? thanx... :confused:

Posted
Originally posted by Fata|@Oct 3 2004, 03:37 AM

would like to ask u guys, do u encounter an "eeee eee" sound at the rear brake disc when u r travelling at very low speed & when u r braking hard?

izzit because the original brake pad is no gd? necessary to change it?

 

advice anyone? thanx... :confused:

Yea, i have the same situation. Rear break squeaks at low speed braking. According to the guys at Guan Hoe, this is normal as the stock brake pads are very "jiak", thus producing alot of brake pad dust.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Oct 5 2004, 01:30 AM

Yea, i have the same situation. Rear break squeaks at low speed braking. According to the guys at Guan Hoe, this is normal as the stock brake pads are very "jiak", thus producing alot of brake pad dust.

oic...thanx.

but the brake pad dust wont damage the rear disc rite?

Posted
Originally posted by Fata|@Oct 5 2004, 01:40 AM

oic...thanx.

but the brake pad dust wont damage the rear disc rite?

u might wan to try to spray water to clear away the dust, but after awhile the sound will b back again......:mad:

No Time To Think Of One

Posted
Originally posted by [V

tec,Oct 5 2004, 03:09 AM] u might wan to try to spray water to clear away the dust, but after awhile the sound will b back again......:mad:

last time i use to buy a clutch and brake disc cleaner which u spray on and blow off wif a blower...not bad..now oso dunno where got sell liaoz...eh,now Regina got the keiti tank pad...i juz got one myself...he brought in 140 designs..same as wat motovation is selling...but i can help u get cheaper if u wan..

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Posted
Originally posted by Fata|@Oct 5 2004, 01:40 AM

oic...thanx.

but the brake pad dust wont damage the rear disc rite?

Nope.. :smile:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted

Any1 wans to change K&N air filter? $120...

 

My stock air filter is clogged with a blanket of dirt after 12k mileage... :giddy:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Oct 5 2004, 12:10 PM

Any1 wans to change K&N air filter? $120...

 

My stock air filter is clogged with a blanket of dirt after 12k mileage... :giddy:

hehe..i waiting for my fren to pass mi his..original cannot wash but can blow wif compressor...better than nothing though..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MPeX@Oct 5 2004, 12:10 PM

Any1 wans to change K&N air filter? $120...

 

My stock air filter is clogged with a blanket of dirt after 12k mileage... :giddy:

hmm, u got lobang for k&n filter ah?

btw, can I know what type of service u do to ur bike when u reach ur 12k mileage? e.g. change spark plugs etc?

sorrie, I'm new to my k4. would like to know more... :smile:

Posted

should be change plugs at 10k click..my fren who use to ride srad told mi u can just remove and scrap off the carbon and put back to use for another 5k click..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by Fata|@Oct 5 2004, 05:39 PM

hmm, u got lobang for k&n filter ah?

btw, can I know what type of service u do to ur bike when u reach ur 12k mileage? e.g. change spark plugs etc?

sorrie, I'm new to my k4. would like to know more... :smile:

I also juz reached 12k.... only servicing required is to clean ur air filter by blowing... :smile:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by MC28@Oct 5 2004, 07:39 PM

should be change plugs at 10k click..my fren who use to ride srad told mi u can just remove and scrap off the carbon and put back to use for another 5k click..

Guan hoe took out my plugs and checked them last week (12k mileage checkup), and showed me my plugs, perfect condition... :thumb:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/MPeX/DSCF0048.jpg

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