New engine break in

[hcfsimon]

is the hard break in method recommended for scooters as well?

 

All bikes can do

[outdoorchap]

Thanks loads. Will explore that as an option for my new scooter

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Thanks loads. Will explore that as an option for my new scooter

 

Good question - but the lack of gear control or even an overdrive will make it a bit more challenging. So is the lack of engine braking *. Never just whack the power on instantly (bad for any engine) but let the revs rise and fall gradually. Don't redline the scoot immediately out of the shop, start slow first then gradually "exercise" it. You should aim to hit near to redline say, at 1,000km or so, if you want to play safe. What you want is really the throttle response at the crucial mid-range torque band so exercise as much as possible in that range.

 

Scooters also seem to like holding a very high RPM during normal riding, relatively speaking, so as to grant you immediate pickup from any situation. Might as well make use of it!

 

Once again please do not overspeed - I do most of the 'exercising' at 2nd to 4th gear

 

 

* - engine braking to run in?

 

This is a very good "play cheat" method as during engine braking the vacuum generated will force expansion of the piston rings. Auto bikes and 2 strokes don't have this feature, but on a 4 stroke just find a huge hill and engine brake all the way down. You will feel the engine is much livelier after this workout.

[Phang]

I have 2 air cooled twin cylinder bikes, both bought new. One ran in using the factory recommended (i.e. soft) method and the other one using the hard method.

 

The “soft” bike consumed about 100ml of engine oil for every 1000km travelled and the “hard” bike engine oil level didn’t drop at all between the oil change at every 5000km

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

I have 2 air cooled twin cylinder bikes, both bought new. One ran in using the factory recommended (i.e. soft) method and the other one using the hard method.

 

The “soft” bike consumed about 100ml of engine oil for every 1000km travelled and the “hard” bike engine oil level didn’t drop at all between the oil change at every 5000km

 

Wow, so mototune is correct on the piston ring seal theory - better seal, less to no blow by = better compression, no piston fouling.

 

I went by wikipedia's entry on the Honda Phantom earlier this morning (guess which parts I edited) and saw the full service interval posted by the previous writer as a whopping FIVE THOUSAND kms. Wtf? I'm past 4 times that and still running faster than ever chasing friends on 2A bikes

 

Hard break in does not mean shorter overhaul intervals! Quite the opposite!

[Phang]

Yes, less blow-by meaning cleaner throttle bodies/carbs and intake valves too. I do check the air boxes regularly, the “soft” bike has a very oily internal and I have to drain the condensed oil collected in the air box via the drain hose. “Hard” bike’s air box is bone dry, fantastic

[ulysses_sc]

I encountered the opposite effects. Rebuilt my old XR250, then did a hard run in (all steps religiously followed). Cylinder walls glazed and started to consume oil after a few thousand Ks.

 

Rebuilt the top end again, and run in using a less extreme method (easy on throttle for 1st tank of gas, normal riding with varying throttle on 2nd tank). Been perfect for the last 3 years.

 

I'd follow the in-between route anytime.

[Phang]

Thread starter must be very confused now…. haha

[hcfsimon]

Thread starter must be very confused now…. haha

 

Haha no la, i running in now. Using a combine method of all. Soft at the start and get harder progressively and in the end near the red line when i at my final stage of run in.

 

But i will change oil 1st before my final stage of run in. Use mineral oil. No syn oil until my 12000km servicing. If you read all my links at the 1st post you will understand why i do it this way.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Since the response is so good we could startup a 'hard break in fan club' lol

 

... or write a wikipedia entry. Hmm! Singapore fame!

[hcfsimon]

i think mine is not 'hard' enough. Mototune method is to wack the bike til red line for teh 1st 100km. especially the 1st 20km....

[outdoorchap]

You should aim to hit near to redline say' date=' at 1,000km or so, if you want to play safe. What you want is really the throttle response at the crucial mid-range torque band so exercise as much as possible in that range. [/quote']

 

How do i go about red lining the thing? Going way too fast?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Wait you can't technically over-rev an auto bike. It will just upshift lol. Well, just let it up and downshift all day and work out the mid-range. Riding normally would accomplish that No need to loaf around at 60kph.

[hcfsimon]

How do i go about red lining the thing? Going way too fast?

 

Remove ur auto gear, change ur gear box to manual. LOL

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Remove ur auto gear, change ur gear box to manual. LOL

 

Lol I want automatic gear Phantom can lol

 

You think car ah

[outdoorchap]

hahaha thanks guys... So it depends on my riding style? being aggressive on the throttle and riding around the mid range will break it in hard. Got it!

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

For the hitting the redline part - I don't really believe that bit because my bikes are always 8-15 years old.

 

8 year old rebuilt engine running 10,000rpms few days into the break in process did complain very noisily when revved that high. So I conditioned it for low-midrange RPM torque instead and it survives that well. Remember, things on the internet might say a lot of good things but you the rider always makes the final judgment.

 

So it depends on my riding style?

 

Warm up first hor. Don't go Mototune immediately on a cold morning. No oil flow to upper parts of the engine, if a 4 stroke

 

On riding style, yes ride hard but ride smart also. Don't just drag race or suddenly open throttle, be a bit gentle and let the revs rise up gradually. For instance on first gear on a cruiser bike it does nobody any favours to just go 6000rpm and dump the clutch. It's not a 125Z lol.

 

Instead get rid of the static friction first by letting the bike roll slowly a few inches forward then Vrrrrroooommm!!! - build the revs and leave everyone else behind I do the same when on a rolling start (say, going 60-100 in 3 seconds). Get the engine accelerating first then open it up as the momentum builds. If you know the engine's rhythm and the limits of its carburetion capacity the engine will like you very much

 

Of course, EFI engines won't probably care about how gentle you are on the throttle - it probably has a fuel map for "emergency full power" or something.

Edited December 25, 2010 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[outdoorchap]

Hey Pandora's Kitten, thanks for the insightful insight.

[hcfsimon]

Mon will be my 1st oil change

[ezzyoiler]

Lol I want automatic gear Phantom can lol

 

You think car ah

 

it can be done..auto phantom..

[yun1991]

Can I do it on my GN 125? Lol.

[Eno]

What bout 2 strokes bike? I'm planning to overhaul my bike with a brand new block, new piston, piston rings, conrod..

 

How it should be? And what are the intervals for changing EO?

[casesensitive]

Any idea as to where to get 4t mineral oil from?

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[KuKuArmani]

Can get from any bike shop. Castrol Go 4T (white bottle) selling at $10 each at most bike shop