Cold start issues.

[crazydj]

Over time and thru wear and tear... valve seat is worn down and valve clearance closes up.

 

When valve clearance is too close... valve opens early and closes early... which is almost the same as advancing the timing of the ignition.

 

When you advance the timing... rpm will go up.

 

Heat causes metal tot expand and that affects valve clearance which in turn retards the valve opening timing which in turns retards the timing.. which in turn brings the rpms down.

 

Dun understand me?? Nevermind... send your bike to the shop for valve clearance check.

 

I understand. So what do i need to set to the optimum timing and valve clearances?

[spaiduhz]

I understand. So what do i need to set to the optimum timing and valve clearances?

 

Go to a qualified mechanic. They will check your valve clearance, and add the appropriate shims to get clearance back to spec.

 

For idling, i would allow the bike to heat up, reduce the idling speed until it stalls, then add 200 rpms. If at cold, it stalls, then i believe there is something choking the bike. Gremlins or something.

[Raptor]

I understand. So what do i need to set to the optimum timing and valve clearances?

 

Follow the workshop manual for the bike. Valve clearance check is done with engine fully cold.

[spaiduhz]

Follow the workshop manual for the bike. Valve clearance check is done with engine fully cold.

 

Not everyone has easy access to a service manual.

 

Though i think user manuals should provide information on idling speed.

 

Is it advisable for the common person with no workshop to do his own valve clearance? When i read about foreigners doing their bike maintenance, including carb service and valve clearance, on their own. A little jealous, at times.

[crazydj]

Not everyone has easy access to a service manual.

 

Though i think user manuals should provide information on idling speed.

 

Is it advisable for the common person with no workshop to do his own valve clearance? When i read about foreigners doing their bike maintenance, including carb service and valve clearance, on their own. A little jealous, at times.

 

I got the service manual for my bike. I just don't have the tools, space and time to do it. Argh.

[dDtim]

Your engine is the same as mine. The temporary solution is to increase the idling. If your carb is the same as the Honda Phantom TA200 (same engine) there is a huge idle adjustment knob you can tune while stopped at traffic lights.

 

Chop the idle setting 5 minutes later, or if you feel the engine wanting to race away while stationary. (idle will naturally increase as it warms up)

 

Alternatively, run the engine slightly leaner, until it can start without choke or increased idle. But this may make the motor run hotter when it does finally warm up. (Yes, it works like that) Do this if your machine's idle adjustment cannot be done by hand.

 

take a pic of the carb and PM it to me if you want me to advise on the settings. I just need to see if its the same KeiHin carb as the Phantom. If so, I can teach you to solve/manage the damn issue in 5 minutes flat, FOC

 

Finally, do note that an engine that starts on the first crank in the morning is either as aforesaid, an electronically managed one, or it's running WAY too lean. That causes problems in the long run as lean settings at high power on the highway is never a good combination.

 

Say no more, this is your answer. I think your issue is more of one that your fuel mixture is running a little too rich and thus especially when your engine is cold and fuel is thicker, you will need to rev up to burn excess fuel in order to keep your engine alive and away from a carburetor flood.

 

The two alternatives are stated there and tuning your bike may take more effort but more likely to show better and permanent results.

 

One show sign of richness is quick fouling of spark plugs.