BMW Motorcycles

[Lighters]

Hi guys if anyone or ur friends is letting go accessories for r1200gs pls do let me know =) thanks

[MJ Gurunathan]

You mean to say it is so easy to remove the Hall Sensor, and you were able yo do it right there on the spot?

 

@atc022: Yes it is possible to remove the Hall sensor plate with the tools in the toolbox. It goes something like this:

 

1) Remove the tank.

2) Disconnect the Hall sensor connector, RHS of the bike near the steering head.

3) Undo the alternator cover (the black plastic cover on the front of the engine).

3a) Turn the engine till OT shows in the timing window (you'll need a torch for this).

4) Put the bike into 3rd or 4th gear and break torque on the bottom pulley bolt. I asked the bike wash Beng to hold the rear brake whilst I did that so the engine wouldn't turn.

5) Loosen the alternator.

6) Remove the bottom pulley.

7) Mark the sensor with a pen before removing it, so you know the exact position to put it back after removal.

8) Remove the sensor.

9) Dry it with some air (you can use the "INFLATE FLAT TYRE" option on the electronic-type air pumps at most petrol stations, air will start blowing out of the pump unit).

10) Drink some kopi and chit chat. Have a Polar puff.

11) Reassemble and ride away!

 

I had replaced the unit once before in my carpark at home, so I knew the procedure well enough to try it with the tools in the toolkit But anyway yes, anyone can do it and it is very simple.

 

You can learn how to do your own repairs by reading this document:

 

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

[Idono]

Saw on FB there was a motorrad open house... didnt know that, else would have gone for free food ....

What "new" stuff do they hv for 2012 with regards to GS? Still no red GSA?

[Kazky]

@atc022: Yes it is possible to remove the Hall sensor plate with the tools in the toolbox. It goes something like this:

 

1) Remove the tank.

2) Disconnect the Hall sensor connector, RHS of the bike near the steering head.

3) Undo the alternator cover (the black plastic cover on the front of the engine).

3a) Turn the engine till OT shows in the timing window (you'll need a torch for this).

4) Put the bike into 3rd or 4th gear and break torque on the bottom pulley bolt. I asked the bike wash Beng to hold the rear brake whilst I did that so the engine wouldn't turn.

5) Loosen the alternator.

6) Remove the bottom pulley.

7) Mark the sensor with a pen before removing it, so you know the exact position to put it back after removal.

8) Remove the sensor.

9) Dry it with some air (you can use the "INFLATE FLAT TYRE" option on the electronic-type air pumps at most petrol stations, air will start blowing out of the pump unit).

10) Drink some kopi and chit chat. Have a Polar puff.

11) Reassemble and ride away!

 

I had replaced the unit once before in my carpark at home, so I knew the procedure well enough to try it with the tools in the toolkit But anyway yes, anyone can do it and it is very simple.

 

You can learn how to do your own repairs by reading this document:

 

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

Wah!! Just by reading difficult job already.. But anyway,

GOOD JOB bro

[tall girl]

Good that you're not that GS rider I met, who claim doing so. Just does not make sense! The pool of supply in the uk is much more what we've here.

 

 

 

 

@tall girl: This is the first time I'm rebuilding a BMW. But I am sure that there are more professional guys out there who may be reconditioning motorcycles and exporting them. Sounds like good business to me!

[atco22]

@atc022: Yes it is possible to remove the Hall sensor plate with the tools in the toolbox. It goes something like this:

 

1) Remove the tank.

2) Disconnect the Hall sensor connector, RHS of the bike near the steering head.

3) Undo the alternator cover (the black plastic cover on the front of the engine).

3a) Turn the engine till OT shows in the timing window (you'll need a torch for this).

4) Put the bike into 3rd or 4th gear and break torque on the bottom pulley bolt. I asked the bike wash Beng to hold the rear brake whilst I did that so the engine wouldn't turn.

5) Loosen the alternator.

6) Remove the bottom pulley.

7) Mark the sensor with a pen before removing it, so you know the exact position to put it back after removal.

8) Remove the sensor.

9) Dry it with some air (you can use the "INFLATE FLAT TYRE" option on the electronic-type air pumps at most petrol stations, air will start blowing out of the pump unit).

10) Drink some kopi and chit chat. Have a Polar puff.

11) Reassemble and ride away!

 

I had replaced the unit once before in my carpark at home, so I knew the procedure well enough to try it with the tools in the toolkit But anyway yes, anyone can do it and it is very simple.

 

You can learn how to do your own repairs by reading this document:

 

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

 

Yup, have seen that pdf file before, and also have a copy of the R1100R/GS/RT service manual, all I need is time and some courage to start doing it.

[atco22]

Saw on FB there was a motorrad open house... didnt know that, else would have gone for free food ....

What "new" stuff do they hv for 2012 with regards to GS? Still no red GSA?

 

2012 R1200GS : http://www.bmwmotorcycle.com/2012_r1200gs_bmw_info.htm

 

2012 R1200GSA : http://www.bmwmotorcycle.com/2012_r1200gs_adv_bmw_info.htm

 

2012 R1200RT : http://www.bmwmotorcycle.com/2012_r1200rt_bmw_info.htm

 

I believe they have red....though the info came from USA, but should apply to here as well.

[bo mai lah]

There is a 2011 R1200RT in the showroom. Deep Blue. Comes standard with Cruise Control, Electronic Suspension Adjustable, Retractable Windshield, Radio/MP3. ABS, ASC, TPC n OBC are equipped in the R1200RT. $44800 OTR excluding Insurance.

 

Hope this information helps

 

I am faced with a dilemma of a few options for changing my current ride. I currently ride a 11 year-old R1100RT, still functioning well, but BMW bikes are addictive, and I am looking to upgrade to a R1200RT, as I prefer the RT series.

 

Now, I have the following few options :

 

July 2007, almost 100k km, $26k

March 2006, 25k km, $31k

Brand new 2012 model, $47k

Keep current bike(fully paid), wait till new model comes out, then buy.

 

My consideration is that probably between 2013-2015, there might be a newer successor to the current 12RT model, if I get a brand new one now, I may be in another dilemma whether to change or to keep.

 

In all three cases, I might be paying about the same in monthly instalments(cannot afford to pay full), only differing in length of loan. Just wanna hear the different opinions.

[bo mai lah]

There is a 2011 R1200RT in the showroom. Deep Blue. Comes standard with Cruise Control, Electronic Suspension Adjustable, Retractable Windshield, Radio/MP3. ABS, ASC, TPC n OBC are equipped in the R1200RT. $44800 OTR excluding Insurance.

 

Hope this information helps

 

I am faced with a dilemma of a few options for changing my current ride. I currently ride a 11 year-old R1100RT, still functioning well, but BMW bikes are addictive, and I am looking to upgrade to a R1200RT, as I prefer the RT series.

 

Now, I have the following few options :

 

July 2007, almost 100k km, $26k

March 2006, 25k km, $31k

Brand new 2012 model, $47k

Keep current bike(fully paid), wait till new model comes out, then buy.

 

My consideration is that probably between 2013-2015, there might be a newer successor to the current 12RT model, if I get a brand new one now, I may be in another dilemma whether to change or to keep.

 

In all three cases, I might be paying about the same in monthly instalments(cannot afford to pay full), only differing in length of loan. Just wanna hear the different opinions.

[bo mai lah]

only colour change for 2012. not changes in specifications

 

@atco22 - in your shoes i would keep the present bike and wait for a new model to be launch,..should be anytime soon.

[atco22]

There is a 2011 R1200RT in the showroom. Deep Blue. Comes standard with Cruise Control, Electronic Suspension Adjustable, Retractable Windshield, Radio/MP3. ABS, ASC, TPC n OBC are equipped in the R1200RT. $44800 OTR excluding Insurance.

 

Hope this information helps

 

Thanks for the info, it sure helps. It's just the colour.

[apeesc]

Hi all

 

I'm servicing my oilhead starter ... anyone know where to get hold of Veleo starter tuneup kit locally or a good spare part shop for Veleo parts, or worst case a Veleo starter replacement (OEM) or any one selling the kit for Veleo DRA starter

 

cheers

[tofuman]

There is a 2011 R1200RT in the showroom. Deep Blue. Comes standard with Cruise Control, Electronic Suspension Adjustable, Retractable Windshield, Radio/MP3. ABS, ASC, TPC n OBC are equipped in the R1200RT. $44800 OTR excluding Insurance.

 

Hope this information helps

 

That's already a good price. Heard that there will be a price increase the next shipment.

[Vonmuck]

Hi guys,

 

since will be going for a short trip at the end of the year, thinking of getting the better quality bike cover. (with elastic band at the bottom)

 

Should i get the 5XL or 4XL size?

 

Using Zega aluminium special system 41L/41L with H&B topbox with rack.

[STealth]

Hi,

 

Try Euromotoelectrics. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/

 

Reasonable price with shipping. ;-)

 

Hi all

 

I'm servicing my oilhead starter ... anyone know where to get hold of Veleo starter tuneup kit locally or a good spare part shop for Veleo parts, or worst case a Veleo starter replacement (OEM) or any one selling the kit for Veleo DRA starter

 

cheers

[Kazky]

Hi guys,

 

since will be going for a short trip at the end of the year, thinking of getting the better quality bike cover. (with elastic band at the bottom)

 

Should i get the 5XL or 4XL size?

 

Using Zega aluminium special system 41L/41L with H&B topbox with rack.

Im using 4XL canvas and with 3 aluminium box, it does cover most of the bike until abt half of ur rims. U can go for 5XL if u wish to cos it depends on individual.

 

My everyday ride with just 1 alu top box i find 4XL is enuf cos it covers nearly 3/4 of the rims.

[MJ Gurunathan]

@apeesc: Hi there. I did a starter motor replacement for my Valeo D6RA55 on my 1994 R1100GS. The starter motor has commonality with that from a Renault Kangoo. However, the pinion housing differs from that of the BMW in terms of orientation, so you'll need to strip the old starter and transfer the housing and pinion over to the new unit. You may purchase your starter locally from Chop Hock Hong: http://www.chophockhong.com.sg . Do check to see if they have the starter rebuild kits in stock... you may just get lucky!

 

The Valeo starters have a long-standing problem with the magnets in the can coming loose and binding on the armature. Sometimes, they'll be able to start fine; other times, you'll need to put the bike in gear and rock the starter around before being able to start the bike. It is best to pull the starter from your bike and inspect each component for damage.

 

If you find that you just need to replace the starter brushes and other assorted consumables, you can purchase the starter rebuild kit from PML. I am not sure how much it costs, but I remember them having stock of the parts about a year back.

 

REPAIR KIT STARTER MOTOR: 12411244611

CARBON BRUSH SET: 61312306015

 

Those are part numbers grabbed from some online fiche, you can check them with PML and see if they have any stock on hand.

 

Otherwise, as one of the other forum members recommended, check out EuroMoto Electrics. They give EXCELLENT service and ship VERY VERY fast! I ordered a Bosch alternator from them and it arrived in less than 2 weeks! Plus you get a bunch of stickers, a free pen and a thank you note from the staff! Additionally, their parts are very competitively priced.

 

Good luck!

 

Hi all

 

I'm servicing my oilhead starter ... anyone know where to get hold of Veleo starter tuneup kit locally or a good spare part shop for Veleo parts, or worst case a Veleo starter replacement (OEM) or any one selling the kit for Veleo DRA starter

 

cheers

[tofuman]

Hi guys if anyone or ur friends is letting go accessories for r1200gs pls do let me know =) thanks

 

Got a brand new set of rox riser new in package. Let me know if you are interested.

[apeesc]

Hi MJ

 

Thanks man, thanks for the leads, will check with Chop Hock Hong and PML on the parts required.

 

I have a R1100R, similar to your GS, laid up for awhile and found the starter acting up so trying my hand to service it.

Relatively easy to take out the starter and cleaned it up, but the starter brush plastic holder and brush are worn out.

Checked EME (euromotoelectrics) and the tune up kit is about USD17, just that the shipping cost USD50, so checking around for local sources

 

Read your thread, and is inspirational for me, so planning to service the rest of my bike and hopefully the forumers here could save me when in needs =)

 

BTW, if I may pick your experience ... beside checking on the fuel pump, any other checks to take note if there is no whining noise when starting the bike.

 

Cheers

 

@apeesc: Hi there. I did a starter motor replacement for my Valeo D6RA55 on my 1994 R1100GS. The starter motor has commonality with that from a Renault Kangoo.... Good luck!

[MJ Gurunathan]

Hi MJ

 

Thanks man, thanks for the leads, will check with Chop Hock Hong and PML on the parts required.

 

I have a R1100R, similar to your GS, laid up for awhile and found the starter acting up so trying my hand to service it.

Relatively easy to take out the starter and cleaned it up, but the starter brush plastic holder and brush are worn out.

Checked EME (euromotoelectrics) and the tune up kit is about USD17, just that the shipping cost USD50, so checking around for local sources

 

Read your thread, and is inspirational for me, so planning to service the rest of my bike and hopefully the forumers here could save me when in needs =)

 

BTW, if I may pick your experience ... beside checking on the fuel pump, any other checks to take note if there is no whining noise when starting the bike.

 

Cheers

 

Happy to help.

 

The pump will prime when you first turn on the ignition, but it won't run if the ignition kill switch is active or any of the interlocks (sidestand etc) are not working. I know that the R1100 bikes cannot have the engine running if the side-stand is deployed... so that might be a possibility. But there are a few other things that could be the problem, so start by checking the fuel pump and if it's working, move on to the other stuff. You can just pull the fuel pump connector from the tank and connect the requisite pins to power and ground to manually run the pump... but please make sure the fuel doesn't go spraying everywhere!

 

The ignition kill switch is easy to troubleshoot; if it is activated, you get no power to the RID (if you have it installed that is).

 

I replaced my R1100GS fuel pump with a unit from EME after I made the mistake of letting the pump sit in the tank with old fuel. The old fuel buggered up the original pump, so I removed it and slotted the new pump in... voila, problem solved! The bike starts easier and idles better now. I think the old unit was having trouble delivering fuel at the correct pressure. Anyway, the EME unit is extremely cheap and comes with all the bits and pieces you need. If you're keeping the R1100R, why not replace both the starter and the fuel pump? Consider it preventive maintenance

 

Would love to see pics of your R1100R, maybe you should start a new thread and we'll all chip in to help you!

 

Cheers;

MJ.

[biker20]

Hi MJ,

 

may I add to your point (4)

@atc022: Yes it is possible to remove the Hall sensor plate with the tools in the toolbox. It goes something like this:

 

1) Remove the tank.

2) Disconnect the Hall sensor connector, RHS of the bike near the steering head.

3) Undo the alternator cover (the black plastic cover on the front of the engine).

3a) Turn the engine till OT shows in the timing window (you'll need a torch for this).

4) Put the bike into 3rd or 4th gear and break torque on the bottom pulley bolt. I asked the bike wash Beng to hold the rear brake whilst I did that so the engine wouldn't turn.

4a) Another way to break the torque is to push in a long screw driver into the timing window to jam the gear so that when you turn the pulley bolt it will not follow your movement.

5) Loosen the alternator.

6) Remove the bottom pulley.

7) Mark the sensor with a pen before removing it, so you know the exact position to put it back after removal.

8) Remove the sensor.

9) Dry it with some air (you can use the "INFLATE FLAT TYRE" option on the electronic-type air pumps at most petrol stations, air will start blowing out of the pump unit).

10) Drink some kopi and chit chat. Have a Polar puff.

11) Reassemble and ride away!

 

I had replaced the unit once before in my carpark at home, so I knew the procedure well enough to try it with the tools in the toolkit But anyway yes, anyone can do it and it is very simple.

 

You can learn how to do your own repairs by reading this document:

 

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

[biker20]

only colour change for 2012. not changes in specifications

 

Hi Paul,

 

welcome back, where have you been? MIA?

[biker20]

Hi Atco, my humble opinion is, if you like it just go for it. Just need to plan your finances well. If you keep thinking of waiting for the next latest, the next latest will never come. New Technologies never stop there. If you notice, all latest model which involve a big change take a few years to refine their engine and design. I'm not sure why 2012 model come with no improvement except paintwork changes. The next change will be a big jump I guess then you may have to bear with some refinery down the road. This is my 2 cents.

 

I am faced with a dilemma of a few options for changing my current ride. I currently ride a 11 year-old R1100RT, still functioning well, but BMW bikes are addictive, and I am looking to upgrade to a R1200RT, as I prefer the RT series.

 

Now, I have the following few options :

 

July 2007, almost 100k km, $26k

March 2006, 25k km, $31k

Brand new 2012 model, $47k

Keep current bike(fully paid), wait till new model comes out, then buy.

 

My consideration is that probably between 2013-2015, there might be a newer successor to the current 12RT model, if I get a brand new one now, I may be in another dilemma whether to change or to keep.

 

In all three cases, I might be paying about the same in monthly instalments(cannot afford to pay full), only differing in length of loan. Just wanna hear the different opinions.

[biker20]

Hi Paul, correct me if I'm wrong. If a brand new cost $47K as what ATCO mentioned and the secondhand one in the showroom cost $44800 w/o insurance, then plus insurance it work out to be about $46+K, then how to sell off the secondhand one?

 

There is a 2011 R1200RT in the showroom. Deep Blue. Comes standard with Cruise Control, Electronic Suspension Adjustable, Retractable Windshield, Radio/MP3. ABS, ASC, TPC n OBC are equipped in the R1200RT. $44800 OTR excluding Insurance.

 

Hope this information helps

[tofuman]

Hi Paul, correct me if I'm wrong. If a brand new cost $47K as what ATCO mentioned and the secondhand one in the showroom cost $44800 w/o insurance, then plus insurance it work out to be about $46+K, then how to sell off the secondhand one?

 

Don't think he mention anything about second unit? He mention it's a 2011 model. If I'm not wrong PML having lelong on their 2011 models. Which explains the last few units of GS and GSA sold out.

 

So it's a good buy for those buying it.