[Discussion] DRZ 400 SM

[blacktide]

Hi!!!!

 

I just bought a 2nd hand Z, 08 model n comes with a delta end can but without the baffle... anyone knows where i can get one cos i dont wanna donate unnecessary cash to the authority. thx!!

 

Try ideal motorsports

[Raptor]

Anyone knows which shop where i can get a SME bar ends and a red anodized case savers?

Thks

 

Raptor, do you carry those stuff?

 

Yes for the bar ends... no for the red anodised case savers.

 

I only carry the ones from Thumpertalk... they are much stronger.

[blacktide]

anyone selling drz stock handlebar?

 

Pm-ed u alrdy.

[ayim84]

anyone selling 7/8 protaper or renthal handle bar?

[laziaf33]

Hi!!!!

 

I just bought a 2nd hand Z, 08 model n comes with a delta end can but without the baffle... anyone knows where i can get one cos i dont wanna donate unnecessary cash to the authority. thx!!

 

Come to think of it, the delta end can might be the old version... its black in colour, kind of carbon fibre material. not sure whether its being wrapped though. if it is the old version, does it actually comes with a baffle?? Anyone can help? Thanx..

[Az_itsme]

anyone selling 7/8 protaper or renthal handle bar?

 

Anyone looking for stock renthal fatbar from drz used fr a few days like new contact sham 96893141

Edited January 29, 2012 by Az_itsme

[ticks]

Come to think of it, the delta end can might be the old version... its black in colour, kind of carbon fibre material. not sure whether its being wrapped though. if it is the old version, does it actually comes with a baffle?? Anyone can help? Thanx..

 

Contact Speedzone. 97436391..but beware, once u put the baffle in ur bike will sound like a *****...real *****....Cos mine is on barrel 4...wat to do, not enuf money and points to give to police...

[ShaReN]

Hi guys, any ideas on where i can find a DRZ E model?

Or if anyone here has one and wants to sell please contact me at 97729995.

cheers =)

[Jehuty]

While I lean towards sportbikes, for me a motard is a more logical choice because its single piston, slim profile, makes a good transport bike especially here,I really don't like kups having ridden a few before.

 

Three things matter, what's the FC like, how's the maintenance and how is it around corners, compared to S4s? Don't really go for performance or anything, even if fully modded this bike isn't gonna feed my need for speed anytime soon but that's not what a motard is about anyway right?

[ticks]

While I lean towards sportbikes, for me a motard is a more logical choice because its single piston, slim profile, makes a good transport bike especially here,I really don't like kups having ridden a few before.

 

Three things matter, what's the FC like, how's the maintenance and how is it around corners, compared to S4s? Don't really go for performance or anything, even if fully modded this bike isn't gonna feed my need for speed anytime soon but that's not what a motard is about anyway right?

 

Bro u asking sth or you're giving your opinion?

 

 

Ride safe people!!

[dany]

Any chance you guys have parallel import bike drz stock headlight(smaller version) and front brake hose guide that mount in your bottom fork clamp?

97960300-dany

[Kingkong79]

Hello all.. I am a newbie here.stopped riding for 10years.. I am getting a new drz 400 sm for work transport purpose.bros here have any bikeshops to recommend me to buy it from.i got a bad price estimate from one shop..between $14-15k OTR...interest rate 4-5%..the guy just wont give me a nett price with actual interest rate. Hate him..lol. Im going to bring it down to raptor to set it up for me when i get it..really knows nothing about maintaining a bike anymore. Not to mention a SM..i think i need a MCCT, axle gliders n 3x3 mod,handguards,aftermarket mirror once i get the bike..u have all these stuff there,bro raptor?..thank u all

[Jehuty]

Bro u asking sth or you're giving your opinion?

 

 

Ride safe people!!

 

Asking la, maintenance and FC most importantly, I need figures.

[ticks]

Asking la, maintenance and FC most importantly, I need figures.

 

Haha sorry man. Maintenance monthly 34bucks. FC 25km/l best Fcr,delta barrel 4fs,hot cams. Worse FC 10km/l on track. Cornering…do u really want to compare S4 with drz?overall quite affordable to maintain. But beware,modification on this bike is endless......

 

 

Ride safe people!!

[Raptor]

Hello all.. I am a newbie here.stopped riding for 10years.. I am getting a new drz 400 sm for work transport purpose.bros here have any bikeshops to recommend me to buy it from.i got a bad price estimate from one shop..between $14-15k OTR...interest rate 4-5%..the guy just wont give me a nett price with actual interest rate. Hate him..lol. Im going to bring it down to raptor to set it up for me when i get it..really knows nothing about maintaining a bike anymore. Not to mention a SM..i think i need a MCCT, axle gliders n 3x3 mod,handguards,aftermarket mirror once i get the bike..u have all these stuff there,bro raptor?..thank u all

 

Yes I have.. and more. Its not an issue of what I have... but how much you willing to spend? Kekekekeke.

[Jehuty]

Haha sorry man. Maintenance monthly 34bucks. FC 25km/l best Fcr,delta barrel 4fs,hot cams. Worse FC 10km/l on track. Cornering…do u really want to compare S4 with drz?overall quite affordable to maintain. But beware,modification on this bike is endless......

 

 

Ride safe people!!

 

As long doesn't affect fuel consumption is fine, what's the cheapest version of DRZ anyway?

[blacktide]

Guys, need some inputs here. Shud i or shud i not apply loctite on my drive sprocket thread? Asked 2 mechs n they say not to cos when unlocking the nut for the next sprox change, force applied to the nut may break the shaft due to the loctite strength. But i think lots of ppl did the loctite fix. Anyone did the loctite fix n had no problems unlocking? Or anyone with unlocking problems?

[ticks]

Guys, need some inputs here. Shud i or shud i not apply loctite on my drive sprocket thread? Asked 2 mechs n they say not to cos when unlocking the nut for the next sprox change, force applied to the nut may break the shaft due to the loctite strength. But i think lots of ppl did the loctite fix. Anyone did the loctite fix n had no problems unlocking? Or anyone with unlocking problems?

 

How bout safety wiring the nut instead?i saw some doing it on super moto junkie…

 

 

Ride safe people!!

[blacktide]

How bout safety wiring the nut instead?i saw some doing it on super moto junkie…

 

 

Ride safe people!!

 

U mean lock wiring? Wow. How did they do that?! Using a lock washer now but it still worries me.

[Raptor]

Guys, need some inputs here. Shud i or shud i not apply loctite on my drive sprocket thread? Asked 2 mechs n they say not to cos when unlocking the nut for the next sprox change, force applied to the nut may break the shaft due to the loctite strength. But i think lots of ppl did the loctite fix. Anyone did the loctite fix n had no problems unlocking? Or anyone with unlocking problems?

 

Incredulous theories... Do they know what they are talking about???

 

Most of the drive shaft shearing I have seen is due to too high air pressure settings on an air driven tool to tighten the sprocket retaining nut after a front sprocket change.

 

Its OK to use an air driven tool to loosen the sprocket retaining nut... the torque resistance get lower during the nut removal process. Its tight at first but will suddenly become loose when the torque is broken.

 

When using an air driven tool to tighten.. the torque loading jumps up instantly once the nut is seated... resulting in the shearing of the hollow drive shaft when the torque exceeds the material strength.

 

The best tool to use is a torque wrench and with Loctite applied to the threads.

 

BTW.. Loctite is no better than womens's nail polish... its only lacquer. Its to prevent the nut from working loose due to vibrations.. its not like Loctite is the same as welding the nut dead onto the shaft.

[blacktide]

Incredulous theories... Do they know what they are talking about???

 

Most of the drive shaft shearing I have seen is due to too high air pressure settings on an air driven tool to tighten the sprocket retaining nut after a front sprocket change.

 

Its OK to use an air driven tool to loosen the sprocket retaining nut... the torque resistance get lower during the nut removal process. Its tight at first but will suddenly become loose when the torque is broken.

 

When using an air driven tool to tighten.. the torque loading jumps up instantly once the nut is seated... resulting in the shearing of the hollow drive shaft when the torque exceeds the material strength.

 

The best tool to use is a torque wrench and with Loctite applied to the threads.

 

BTW.. Loctite is no better than womens's nail polish... its only lacquer. Its to prevent the nut from working loose due to vibrations.. its not like Loctite is the same as welding the nut dead onto the shaft.

 

Thanks for the input. That just gave me confidence. Lol.

[ticks]

Fellowriders,

 

Who here has converted their tubed rims to be running tubeless? Don't mean changing to Alpinas or Marsch's..(or however you spell it)..Just the conversion...

Any reports?

 

and anybody has been running on tubed tires on track and then find themselves having a deflated tire?

 

 

thanks!

[ayim84]

orready got handlebar. lookin for handle bar riser..anyone noes hw much approximate it cost?

[Raptor]

Fellowriders,

 

Who here has converted their tubed rims to be running tubeless? Don't mean changing to Alpinas or Marsch's..(or however you spell it)..Just the conversion...

Any reports?

 

and anybody has been running on tubed tires on track and then find themselves having a deflated tire?

 

 

thanks!

 

At the Tuas track in 2009.. I have seen for myself.. a total of seventeen DRZs with deflated rear tyres after a track session. The leaks are slow leaks and no foreign objects can be found embedded on the tyre.

 

The leaks are located at the base of the valve stem where it joins the tube. Basically what has happened is.. due to the violent accleration and decelaration on the track.. the tyre tends to creep on the rim..ie the rim moves in relation to the tyre.

 

Because the rim moves.. it pulls the tyre valve along with it.. thus causing a tear to start at the juncture where the tyre valve joins the inner tube.

 

And actually... a tubeless rim stops this problem. The tyre will still creep on the rim.. but in this case.. there is no tube to tear.

[ticks]

At the Tuas track in 2009.. I have seen for myself.. a total of seventeen DRZs with deflated rear tyres after a track session. The leaks are slow leaks and no foreign objects can be found embedded on the tyre.

 

The leaks are located at the base of the valve stem where it joins the tube. Basically what has happened is.. due to the violent accleration and decelaration on the track.. the tyre tends to creep on the rim..ie the rim moves in relation to the tyre.

 

Because the rim moves.. it pulls the tyre valve along with it.. thus causing a tear to start at the juncture where the tyre valve joins the inner tube.

 

And actually... a tubeless rim stops this problem. The tyre will still creep on the rim.. but in this case.. there is no tube to tear.

 

Hi Boss,

 

thanks for the answer with practical examples..Was thinking of converting to tubeless..Not thinking of changing to tubeless rims just yet..SMJ has a few guys who have done it and went to track and back with no punctures...as yet...