What DIY tools to buy?

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Had trouble fitting the 1/2" drive spark plug socket and its extension into my fazer, so i asked a nearby hardware shop if they carry any 3/8" drive ratchet sets.

 

http://184.72.239.143/mu/dcff029f-f57c-e3a3.jpg

 

Ten bucks.

 

The socket quality is... questionable. Extension is sorely lacking. But its cheap, and the ratchet handle snaps from one direction to another with confidence. I like how it has a motorbike plug tool, but none of the sockets have a retention groove.

 

Well, off to look for extension bars. Yew aik heng is too dangerous, the stuff too poisonous.

 

Lets have a look at homefix, hopefully they have some 3/8" extensions.

 

spaiduhz,

If you're considering doing this for any amount of time, I'd recommend buying better quality tools. It'll be cheaper in the long run. Tools that you're going to use very often (sockets, screwdrivers, wrenches) are worth spending on.

 

Depending on budget, the M10 brand from our local company (thanks Phang) Wing Poh looks to be very high quality, and is not very expensive at all. The tools conform to the European DIN standard, which ensures its high quality. I am really impressed with the fit and finish of their stuff. In fact the tools look to be of better quality than some Japanese branded tools.

 

If you're willing to spend more, Elora is considered top-end professional tool quality, they are tools used in the aircraft industry just like Snap-On, and they have a number of distributors in S'pore. They're considered cheap for a top-end quality tool, especially if you compare their prices to Snap-On. But looks matter to me, and Elora's not very...pretty. But if you're a ultilitarian kind of guy, it shouldn't matter.

 

I like KTC (Japanese) stuff too, but problem is the local distributor doesn't carry much in terms of range. KTC is also more expensive naturally, because they're considered top-end of Japanese tools, but they are very pretty.

 

I love Snap-On of course, but for a hobbyist, I just can't justify paying the ridiculous amount of money they're asking for. I mainly shop for used items whenever they pop up on ebay, but again, it's risky because I can't see the tools up close.

 

I recommend spending more on the "core" tools. Then buy cheap stuff for the "fringe" tools that you only use once in a while.

 

For screwdrivers, I found the Sunflag brand of phillips screwdrivers just awesome. They can remove stuff that my previous ones would totally strip out.

[spaiduhz]

I will have to see in the months ahead whether self servicing my bike continues. I am afraid that it might be a passing fad for me, and i end up going to a motortiam to do my basic servicing.

 

But then, i dont think almost doubling the price of my expendables makes any economic sense.

 

I dont see myself peeling off the carburator anytime soon, though.

 

Sunflag is a jis screwdriver?

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Yes, sunflag is JIS. They can even remove the phillips screws on my house window sills, which is unbelievable. Those only come off with an impact, or so I thought.

[crazydj]

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/DoubleAceSocket11PcsWrenchSet.jpg?t=1302123424

 

Double Ace 11Pcs Socket Wrench Set.

 

Bought it for like $14 and it could tighten/loosen ANY hexagonal bolt on my bike. I left it lying around in my house and it got stolen. I had to buy another set.

 

If i had more money, i wish i had those "quick release ratchets". Many times, when my hands are oily, the damn sockets are so hard to remove!

 

It started off when i wanted to change my own engine oil. The wait at mechanics are so damn long and the oils are so damn expensive. I am not going to wait like 30 minutes for an oil change. Just yesterday, i was at a mech in shunli to change the my oil, took me 40 mins waiting time. Anyway, i still prefer to change my own oil because i can do it under 5 minutes. Even if i want to dispose my oil, just walk out of my house a few metres, reach mechanic with oil drum just put used oil there.

 

Slowly, i changed meter, headlight bulbs, all the things on the handlebars etc. and was grateful i got a whole set instead of just one socket and wrench to open my engine oil drain bolt.

 

When changing oil at the mech, i realised that when the oil is cheap, the waiting time is long. When the oil change is fast, the oil costs 12 bucks for mineral. I live around the changi area and almost all the shops i go to change oil charge 12 bucks for the cheapest oil change. Sometimes, i just go to shell station to buy the oil and the damn mineral oil performs better than the 12 bucks mineral agip or the branded oils. Maybe my bike sucks haha.

Edited April 6, 2011 by crazydj

[spaiduhz]

Hey guys. Where do you go to purchase worms for your tire repair kits?

 

I bought a pack of 10 worms for 5 dolls at jurong point homefix last year. All finished by now, and no one bothered to replace. Same shop doesnt sell the pack of 10 anymore, but they do sell a pack of 5 for 6 dolls. Daylight robbery, i think, since the kit i bought for 7.5 dolls, comes with the tools and 5 worms.

[crazydj]

I would say mustafa centre. Got a few brands. Got sell just the worms only also. How come you guys always got hole in your tyres?

[spaiduhz]

I would say mustafa centre. Got a few brands. Got sell just the worms only also. How come you guys always got hole in your tyres?

 

My area of coverage includes several huge industrial estates. Nails and steel shavings aplenty.

[Phang]

I got the replacement worms from Mustafa too

 

So far my bikes haven’t pick up a nail yet, my car will get a nail/screw/sharp metal piece average every 40,000km travelled.

[spaiduhz]

Woot, i bought 3 packs of 10 magic mart at under 4 dolls each. Even if i become a stingy ass and charge 2 dolls everytime i patch my buds' punctured tires, i make a handsome profit of... umm... 48 dolls. Woo hoo!

 

No more mr. Nice guy! (evil)

[Phang]

You can cut the strip into half to double the profit. You don’t need the full length of the strip to patch a hole, if you are good, half length is sufficient

[spaiduhz]

You can cut the strip into half to double the profit. You don’t need the full length of the strip to patch a hole, if you are good, half length is sufficient

 

Maybe for thinner tires for smaller bikes. I have to take a deep breath, and jam the worm in. Initial push, and half the worm is already inside.

 

Steel braided tires, gosh those are a nightmare. Multiply that when the bike doesnt have a mainstand. Ugh.

[gohjohan]

You can cut the strip into half to double the profit. You don’t need the full length of the strip to patch a hole, if you are good, half length is sufficient

 

Also if tires are still in good condition, half length is sufficient. If tires are close to wear, it will be less than half

[spaiduhz]

Ok. Anyone use a syringe to lube their cables before? I am wondering if I can purchase one from a pharmacy, with a needle made blunt by sandpaper.

 

I noticed there are some articles on the internet using a syringe with a fine flexible tube for a needle.

 

Dripping oil down the cable is a tedious and messy affair. I believe a syringe will help.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Get a syringe with a needle, spray cable lube in syringe, then just inject it into the cable tubing. I don't find it necessary to blunt the needle, just be careful. I prefer teflon lubes 'cos it doesn't leave an oily firm, as the lubricant is solid graphite that's left when the liquid medium evaporates.

[spaiduhz]

Get a syringe with a needle, spray cable lube in syringe, then just inject it into the cable tubing. I don't find it necessary to blunt the needle, just be careful. I prefer teflon lubes 'cos it doesn't leave an oily firm, as the lubricant is solid graphite that's left when the liquid medium evaporates.

 

You can squeeze cable lube down the needle of a syringe? I am using engine oil, and i am finding it difficult to squeeze the syringe.

 

I have noticed a few articles on the tubes about a pressure cable luber that you clamp on the open end of your cable, and the pressure on the spray can pushes the lube through the sheath.

 

I am asking this as my bike has the exup system built in, with the top end of the cable connected to a servo motor directly under the tank. Dripping from the top and letting gravity do the work looks unfeasable.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

I didn't have problems squeezing the lube through the needle. It isn't very viscous. It's basically just graphite powder carried in a volatile carrier solvent. I suspect you might be having problems 'cos you're using engine oil? It's much thicker.

[MrIce]

any1 know where can i get high quality tools ? not too expensive type

[aRcHeR]

high quality tools and not too expensive don't go together..

 

you wan high quality tools, you pay abit more that can last your for a lifetime if proper usage is followed.

 

you wan cheap tools, you pay ALOT more to your mechanic to resolve the mess you created, as well as kenna f**k-ed by your mechanic thrown-in FOC.

 

you wan to pay abit more upfront, or you wan to pay alot more + free gift when sh*t happens.. you decide.

[spaiduhz]

After much swearing and grunting, me and my buddy managed to switch out his oil filter from his bandit 1250. We only just barely got my oil filter tool with the swivel legs to fit, and slowly turn it. Ugh, silly design i think., by the suzuki engineers.

 

I think i will help him buy a cap tool to assist. Clearance from the exhaust headers to the filter is sibey closse.

 

You reckon one of those parts shop along rowell road will have a suzuki specific oil filter cap tool? I may get one for my fazer too.

[spaiduhz]

http://tapatalk.com/mu/dcff019a-e10b-b72a.jpg

 

Woohoo! Oil filter "cap" tool! Purchased at chong aik international! 3/8 drive compatible, and also spanner compatible as well!

 

I finally purchased a headlight assembly for my fazer. Installation was a breeze when all screws are available. The head cowling was another sad story. 3 out of 5 mounting points were broken. Can you believe that my head cowling was held in place by a single, solitary screw?? The geniuses at southern motors also painted over the windshield dampers, making it hard and difficult to remove. Now to replace the head cowling, i need to purchase another 5 screws to replace the non existant ones, as well as another set of 6 windshield dampers as i cant transfer them anymore.

 

Not to mention they managed to shear off one of the screws on my rhs engine cover, and kept quiet about it?!

 

When i asked, auto machinery doesnt have the fairing screws in stock. Where do you guys normally go to purchase screws?

[MiddleAgedBiker]

There's a big store behind LAB, along the row of hardware shops.

 

Typically where there are a lot of auto workshops, there will be at least one shop selling screws. There's one at AMK Industrial Park 2, it's facing the main road (AMK Ave 3).

 

If I had to make a guess I'd say other areas like Kaki Bukit and Defu Lane would also have theses shops.

[spaiduhz]

There's a big store behind LAB, along the row of hardware shops.

 

Typically where there are a lot of auto workshops, there will be at least one shop selling screws. There's one at AMK Industrial Park 2, it's facing the main road (AMK Ave 3).

 

If I had to make a guess I'd say other areas like Kaki Bukit and Defu Lane would also have theses shops.

 

Along kelantan lane?

[crazydj]

When you guys replace screws, always ask for stainless steel screws. I once just asked them for screws, gave me the normal ones, and now they are rusted i have to change them.

 

On a side note, if you know that your screws are going to be rusty or is a little rusty, you better change them to stainless steel screws.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Along kelantan lane?

 

It's Kelantan Rd. Blk 31. It's the side facing blk 29.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

When you guys replace screws, always ask for stainless steel screws. I once just asked them for screws, gave me the normal ones, and now they are rusted i have to change them.

 

On a side note, if you know that your screws are going to be rusty or is a little rusty, you better change them to stainless steel screws.

 

Be careful with screws/bolts that need to bear structural load, and those that go into the engine though. Because of the high chromium content, SS tends to be more brittle and will break more easily. So make sure you get a rating that is equal to or better than the one being replaced if the screw bears structural load.

 

SS is also unsuitable for parts that undergo constant heat-cool cycles because of the tendency to weld itself to the aluminum part. E.g. cylinder head bolts, etc.