<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[headpoppaz]

Hi SW bros,

 

Just checking if you guys have a light clicking sound coming from the engine during idling. The sound is louder when the seat is lifted up. Is a valve clearance check needed? Or could it be a case of loose cam chain ? My mileage is at 30,000km. Please advice. Thanks!

 

 

 

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[scoobydoo]

Just checking if you guys have a light clicking sound coming from the engine during idling. The sound is louder when the seat is lifted up. Is a valve clearance check needed? Or could it be a case of loose cam chain ? My mileage is at 30,000km. Please advice. Thanks!

the light clicking sound is normal for the SW, as long as it remains light and not loud.

 

the sound is more audible after you lift yup the seat but worry not, especially when your SW's mileage is only 30+k km. some of ours are around 100+k km and the valves are still good to go without valve clearance.

it not broken, no need to fix it

 

related post:

Need To Do Valve Clearance?

Edited February 4, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Fluids in the SW

SW manual recommends 10w40 motor oil (engine oil) for engine bay and also final transmission.

 

if not wrong, it uses only 5 types of juices at 6 areas:

(1) engine bay ... 10w40 4-stroke motor oil, 2l or 2.2l (change oil filter)

(2) final transmission ... 10w40 motor oil, 0.32l (there's an overflow value)

(3) front fork ... SS-8 suspension fluids, 302 +/- 2.5cm3

(4) brake system ... DOT 4 brake fluid

(5) liquid cooling system ... 2.2l in engine/radiator, 0.8l in reservoir, anti-freeze/anti-corrosion coolants

last but not least...

(6) fuel ... min octane rating 91 (lowest in SG is RON 92) petrol or gasoline

 

did i miss out any?

[headpoppaz]

Thanks scoobydoo for the tip!

 

 

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[superfly]

Hi guys, and thanks Scoobydoo for maintaining this valuable page.

 

I am looking for info about replacing the main bulb in the headlight. As anyone got experience with spoiled bulb.

 

I was advised by one shop that must dismount the entire front of the bike (!!!!) so more thant two hours of labor....

 

 

Mmmmmh has anyone got experience with this before, and what is the typical charges for bulb and labor?

 

Cheers,

 

[superfly]

Hi guys, and thanks Scoobydoo for maintaining this valuable page.

 

I am looking for info about replacing the main bulb in the headlight. As anyone got experience with spoiled bulb.

 

I was advised by one shop that must dismount the entire front of the bike (!!!!) so more thant two hours of labor....

 

 

Mmmmmh has anyone got experience with this before, and what is the typical charges for bulb and labor?

 

Cheers,

 

 

Oh, I found this on Google.

 

Could be interesting to keep this for other riders. Turns out it looks pretty simple to do, but I will go to my fav shop to get this done.

 

http://files.meetup.com/456861/Silverwing%20Replace%20Low%20Beam.pdf

 

Cheers,

[echris108]

pictures of connection to rear of speedometer .i broke my 12 pin connector when removing.it broke due to ageing as plastic had become brittle.

pictures taken by B.J from silverwing600.com

[scoobydoo]

FJS400 Speedometer Connection/Socket

 

happened to take down head cowl to install voltmeter the other day, so took opportunity to snap a pic

note: the wiring seems slightly different from the pic from silverwing600.com

 

SW model: FJS 400 (through Boon Siew)

Year of manufacture: 2006

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWsocket_wiring_zps2890826c.png

Edited March 21, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Replace FJS Headlight Bulbs

 

courtesy of Dimond (silverwing600.org)

http://www.silverwing600.com/t5150-headlight-low-beam-upper-bulb-removal-and-replacment

 

Subject: Headlight Low Beam (upper) Bulb Removal and Replacment Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:40 am

 

Replaced my 'low beam bulb' (the upper bulb in the headlight - not the lower one) over the weekend - how hard can that be? Well for me, I made it VERY hard. So, thinking we need a procedure for this (maybe it is elsewhere, but I could not find it - at least the part dealing with releasing the Retainer (spring). The hard part for me was getting the Retainer to release. Not even sure that I did it correctly - but what I have outlined below somehow worked for me. If someone has a better idea/way - then please elaborate on your procedure. Maybe the procedure is somewhere on this forum - or some forum - but I could not find it. Possibly because it is a simple matter and only I have made it this hard!

 

 

Tools/Supplies:

Screwdriver

Piece of Wood - 3"x5/8"x1/4" (this is what I used but the dimensions can likely vary some - but it can't be too long, too wide, or too thick or it won't fit).

Bulb - 55watt, H7 is OEM size.

Latex gloves - Or something to keep your fingers off the bulb.

Plastic Card - To assist in helping to release garnish tabs.

Mirror/Flashlight - A little mirror and a flashlight would be nice to take a peek at what you will be working on (but you can't use it while your working) - I replaced mine without these as I did not have a small mirror.

 

 

Steps to Follow:

1. Check out the photo in the following post as it explains a lot: http://www.silverwing600.com/t1901-headlight-bulb-replacement and for the most part you are never going to see most of the stuff in this photo - just feel it. Also, look at the Honda Service Manual for Headlight Bulb Replacement (21-5 in my manual) and Windshield Garnish Removal (2-12 in my manual) as there are some nifty diagrams - but if you don't have the manual that is OK as this procedure advises you on what to do.

 

2. Buy Bulb - I got a 55watt H7 at my local auto store, which had quite a variety of H7's available; however, the discussion of what bulb to actually use is not the subject of this procedure - which is geared to just bulb replacement.

 

3. Remove Windshield Garnish in front of windshield - Take out 4 screws, insert credit care (plastic card) under lower front side of garnish where it overlaps the headlight, grab the top of the garnish (one side) and push down along the face of the cowl to release the tabs - but be careful. http://www.silverwing600.com/t5149-headlight-trim-removal#48181 shows how to do this. I took my windshield and the small piece of black plastic (Front Meter Visor) off also to give just a bit more hand room - but next time I think that I can do this bulb replacement without taking windscreen/visor items off.

 

4. Reach in and remove electrical Headlight Connector from the back of the bulb - you will be able to see it.

 

5. Remove Dust Seal around bulb - You can't see it but you can feel it. It comes off very easily.

 

6. Release Retainer (spring) - The Retainer spring looks (to me) like any retainer holding your car bulb. However, this was the really hard step (for me). I fiddled and faddled for an hour with a myriad of tools/gloves but could not get the blasted retainer spring to release (I guess I have weak hands/thumbs) - until I got the above noted Piece of Wood! With the wood I was able to push directly down on the U-shaped tab the sticks vertically up from the Retainer spring with enough force to get the Retainer spring clip to release - you can't see what your doing with your hand(s) in there - so you do this by feel. Stand with your face to the rear of the bike, reach in with your hand, and align the Piece of Wood so that the long axis of the wood runs toward the back of the bike, keep the wood horizontal above the bulb, and move it towards the front of the bike just above the Retainer spring tab. The wood also helps insofar as not putting something that is too hard or exerts too much force - which may damage something. When the Retainer spring releases be sure to hold onto the bulb and the wood - the spring just flops down on a pivot and stays connected to the headlight. Guess you could use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers (which I don't have) but you would need to be careful of what you grab and how much force you exert - as slipping may damage something.

 

7. Remove bulb.

 

8. Pry the transition electrical connector off old bulb and install on new bulb.

 

9. Place new bulb in headlight - align it so it fits in.

 

10. Re-install Retainer Spring - Flip the retainer spring up and use the Piece of Wood for pushing down on tab to engage retainer spring.

 

11. Re-install Dust Seal - Orient the dust seal so that the Dust Seal arrow mark is on the top and the rubber tabs are on the bottom.

 

12. Plug in Headlight Connector.

 

13. Test the light to see that it works.

 

14. Re-install Windshield Garnish

 

15. Drink Beer (oh, guess we better add this to the supplies list!)

Courtesy of "TheKackler in San Diego"

Replacing the “Low Beam” bulb on your SILVERWING

 

courtesy of Cornishman (silverwing600.org)

https://youtube.googleapis.com/v/dwr2KRGv8ho

 

 

courtesy of DennisB (silverwing600.org)

~ page from manual

http://i89.servimg.com/u/f89/13/39/96/62/pictur11.jpg

Edited September 18, 2014 by scoobydoo

[echris108]

since this question (problem) pops up every now n then in the SW community, tot it'll be good to post the "probably solution" here

 

when we first turn on the ignition power (not crank start yet), bike's electronics including ECU will be powered up (can hear a faint zzz sound) and we can see the meters come on.

 

problem

when we crank start the bike, the electronics re-initialise itself again... meter goes off and comes back on again.

watch this clip

 

possible cause

the batt may hold normal voltage (12+V) but it has just enough current to crank start the engine. at moment when current is drawn for cranking (high current is required), voltage drops so low that it is insufficient to power the electronics. once engine is started, the alternator (aka magneto) takes over the supply and sufficient power returns.

this usually happens to an old batt or if the batt is relatively new, there may be something amiss with the charging system.

 

possible solutions

(a) charge the battery externally... especially if bike is not regularly in use or has been left alone for prolonged periods.

battery can be charged externally at workshops for a few dimes but usually takes at least a few hours even under "quick charge" mode. if you have your own charger, can DIY.

(b) take bike out for regular long rides... use the bikes magneto to charge the battery.

unfortunately, this works only for riders who ride their SW often, not when the bike is a weekend bike or a dust collector.

© change a new battery... most straight forward but gotta pay for it.

changing a new battery worked for most SWingers, symptom is gone once old batt is replaced.

 

if symptom returns shortly after changing to a new battery, it is time to check:

(i) charging system (mainly the magnetic coil & rectifier) as battery may not be properly charged; or

(ii) if there's any shorted links in the electrical system (tracing the shorts is a time consuming & costly process). removing any add-on items that's connected and drawing power (poor or damaged connections may cause shorts), allow the battery to be charged over few days of riding (or bring to workshop for charging) and monitor if problem persists.

 

 

 

 

another post on same topic...

 

my speedo had a broken pin due to corrsion n that cuz the same problem as mention above.

[pokey2014]

Wtb a sw 400cc, do pm me ..... budget about 5k++

 

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[Darkcrew]

SW-T400 top box rack

 

Hi Guys

 

Can I check is it a must to drill the rear plate of the bike inorder to fix the top box rack?

Can I replace the whole thing with a givi rack to avoid drilling?

Sorry I do not not what exactly is the pillion hand grip plus rear plate for silverwing called.

[scoobydoo]

Rear Spolier (aka Tail Fin)

Any difference between the new and old Silver Wing's tail fin?

 

Courtesy of MaIkEr ... our friendly ex-SWinger

 

Very good question and I think you hit the jackpot! 77310-MCT_000ZB is common to all sw model, sw-t included! ZB denote color code. I didnt even thought of that!

 

Attached pic is off my JDM parts catalogue. 5,7,8 are old model. 9 is for swt, eg FJS400A9 is swt400abs.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/17/9b5317c1fbe03c8cad2876790e1fc025.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/17/7788b7b4a7ed25b69c740c812b74b650.jpg

[Darkcrew]

hi Guys

 

May I know what is the bulb size for SW-T400?

 

1) Front headlight

2) Rear light + brakelight

3) Front Polelight

 

Thank you!!!!

[scoobydoo]

Silver Wing meets Euro III Standard?

 

From 1 October 2014, the emission standard for new motorcycles and scooters will be tightened to Euro III standard from the current Euro I standard, so as to improve ambient air quality, in particular ground-level ozone levels. The emission standard for motorcycles (three-wheel) that are classified under Category L5e of the EU directive will be tightened to Euro II emission standard. Euro II is the prevailing European emission standards for such motorcycles.

 

So what does Euro III mean?

http://transportpolicy.net/index.php?title=EU:_Motorcycles:_Emissions

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/EuroStandardTables_zpsb7768148.png

 

Is the Honda Silver Wing 400cc Euro III compliant?

 

According to Honda's official website, the environmental specs listed for GT400 400cc/600cc showed that the SW meets Euro III standard. Assuming that the SWT-400 uses the same engine as the GT400, both the GT and SWT versions of Silver Wing should meet the new emission requirements of Euro III... check this page

http://www.honda.co.jp/SILVERWING/environment/index.html

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/HondaGTEnvSpecs_zps03a2f501.png

 

cheers

[bananaboi]

Anybody selling their 400 or 600 sw?

[OMD]

Someone just posted a 400 Silverwing for sale in the Bike Mart section. You might want to check that out.

[bananaboi]

Anybody selling their 400 or 600 sw?

[bananaboi]

Used bike section? Bike is sold.

[OMD]

Used bike section? Bike is sold.

Not the used bike section of the forum, but the BikeMart.

[SW9000]

Kindly post all questions at the Silverwing /HOM Cafe.

 

Leave this thread for technical postings only so that it won't be messy with lots of chatting.

 

Thanks for understanding.

[Br58son]

I want to install one on my xciting as well...http://zz.avedcomputer.com/7.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/9.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/8.jpghttp://zz.avedcomputer.com/10.jpg

[scoobydoo]

Time/Clock on Speedometer Keeps Resetting

 

The problem/symptom...

 

Thanks a lot. Yes I did change the engine oil and spark plug when I took out the bike. But need to do more it seems. The bike is very stiff when turning or slower rides. And the water temp lights very fast turns on and the meter always get reset after on and off engine. Time always at 1am. Seem to have some issues with the bike.

Hi. My ten year old wing also got the time reset problem. . But when I got the bike. . One month in. . Rectifier and coil chui... so changed all .. installed voltmeter to check battery charging. . But the time still reset ley. .. how

 

The cause & solution...

 

@banana Boi. .Anyway. Regarding the clock. I just Googled and solved. The fuse burnt. Changed the fuse. .done. .

[scoobydoo]

Re-Wrapping the Silver Wing's Seat

 

Among the most commonly worn part of our SW is the seat, may not sound critical but it it does affect comfort (good cushion), safety (good butt "grip"), and of course... looks

 

So where can we get it fixed in locally... let's not talk about the great deals and lobangs in boleh or tongyum lands.

Many shops provide such services but i'll just share 4 of the more popular vendors among SBF bikers...

 

Eugene Saddlery

203 Jalan Besar S207734 (formerly at Syed Alwi Rd)

Tel/HP: 62933613 / 94307471

http://eugenesaddlery.weebly.com/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eugene-Saddlery/164522110267438?sk=info

 

Juzz Wheelzz

Blk 1007 Bukit Merah Lane 3 #01-07 S159721

Tel/HP: 6270 0523 / 8125 0456

juzzwheelzz@sIngnet.com.sg

http://www.juzzwheelzz.com.sg/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/juzzwheelzzgraphix

note: they also do stickers for both bikes and cars

 

219 Motorshop

217 Lavender street (main)

257A Jalan Besar

Tel 62977225, 62967238

motorshop_219@yahoo.com.sg

http://www.219motorshop.com.sg/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/motorshop219

note: they also do stickers for both bikes and cars

 

Auntie Sticker Shop

411 Jalan Besar S209014

Tel: 6291 0543

https://www.facebook.com/auntiestickershop

 

 

What's the $$$ damage?

 

Price depends on many factors:

* type of fabric you choose, e.g. leather, non-slip, matt, glossy, printed designs, embroidery, etc

* number of different fabric, e.g. multi tone or colour

* any skirting

* complexity of design

* modifications to seat (e.g. add cushion, slice cushion, etc)

 

Apart from cost, do consider also the time required for them to complete your desired design; more complicated means longer wait.

While a simple single non-slip PU fabric wrap costs around $70~$90 and about half day to complete, prices could double or triple up and requiring few days to >1 week, depending on your desired designs.

 

i customised my seat at eugene 4 years ago and the seat is still in good condition, except for some claw marks left behind by a stupid penang cat.

paid $130 and waited almost 2 weeks (he's got too many jobs on hand), but very satisfied by the outcome. price should have gone up after 4 years

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=181847&d=1288929374

[bananaboi]

Hi... I did change the fuse. But it blow again. It's the clock n trip meter that keep reset. Coolant done. No more overheat after flush. ...