<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[scoobydoo]

any advise on running in and oil change?

 

abt the Ko Samui trip, i think now this time- i may ended up being a burden to your convoy... :-)

anyway, thanks for the invitation, will start with somewhere nearer, if there is...

answered you at the main SW thread

[CCT]

how much they quote you??

 

17k... I think the price is about there...

The range I got from various shops are $17-$17.5k

Reasonable?

[scoobydoo]

Changing The Silver Wing’s Coolant

 

# Note: There's a discrepancy as to how much coolant is required during the replacement.

Owner's manuals stated:

~ 3L ... FJS400 owner's manual

~ 2.67L ... SWT owner's manual

~ 2.2L (radiator & engine) + 0.8L (reserve tank) ... FJS service manual

 

My recent (Aug 2014) coolant change at one of the reputable mechanic shops in Ubi used only about 1.5L of the "64oz (approx 1.9L) premixed Water Wetter". The boss assured me that the amount is correct and I was like... hmmm... looks like the coolant inside is gonna be quite diluted with dunno distilled water or tap water

The last time I DIYed, we managed to put in about 2L of coolant, after flushing the system with distilled water.

Guess I'ld have do a DIY to "un-dilute" the coolant

 

The Silver Wing’s engine is a water-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC 2-cylinder with capacity of 400cc/600cc. It is therefore important to maintain the cooling system properly for optimal performance and to prevent premature breakdowns.

 

Safety: Make sure engine/radiator is cool before proceeding. Removing the radiator cap when the radiator is hot (pressurized due to heat) may cause the hot coolant to spray out, causing scalding injuries.

Preparation

Other than the necessary tools, you should have the following ready before proceeding:

 

• Desired coolant… self-mixed or pre-mixed, about 2+L* (see extracts of owners manuals below),

• A few litres of distilled water for flushing the system (if desired),

• Funnel to facilitate access would be required for refilling via the reservoir; can improvise by using an empty 500ml water bottle (see pic),

• Select a suitable location (e.g. washing bay), unless you have tray to collect the discharged used coolant.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWSpec_capacities.jpg?t=1298861706

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/DIYfunnel.jpg?t=1297301105

 

Note: Do not use ordinary water as it contains minerals and impurities that may cause corrosion to the radiator and damage to the engine.

Note: Changing coolant (or any form of maintenance/repairs) at HDB car parks is illegal and may get fined when caught. Self discretion is required.

Procedures

As far as I can remember from my DIY change about 2 years ago, with the help of sifu HelmetBOX!

 

Note: most mechanics usually skip the flushing step and proceed to change the coolant straight away; distilled water and time are costs saved. However, the result is a new coolant mix with some parts of used coolant inside. Flushing is recommended as the result is a fully new coolant, only diluted by the amount of residual distilled water; depending on how thorough the post flushing steps are done.

 

Steps are according to FJS/JDM as “tupperware” of SWT/GT are slightly different.

p/s: please PM to correct me if there's an error in the steps, i'll correct the info accordingly

 

• Put bike on main stand.

• Remove the right glove/storage compartment to reveal the coolant reservoir and radiator cap.

• Remove the reservoir and radiator caps to facilitate “down-flow” when doing gravity draining and for filling in.

• Remove bottom-left fairing to reveal the coolant pipes and drain bolt/plug (see pic).

• Remove the drain bolt and washer to drain used coolant, leave bike till coolant somewhat “stop” flowing. Stock coolant from Honda is a slimy dark green in color fluid.

• Distilled Water Flushing (if desired but recommended):

There will still be some used coolant inside the engine. If flushing is desired, pour some distilled water into the radiator very slowly and allow the water to flow out via the drain outlet, flushing the radiator and upper pipes. When water starts flowing again, start the engine and let it run on idle (water pump running) while continuing to pour distilled water into the radiator. Liquid (used coolant and water) will flow out from the drain outlet as the pump starts to draw fluid from the radiator. Stop the engine when the out-flowing liquid turns pale (takes only few minutes), i.e. used coolant inside the engine is replaced by distilled water (requires a few litres). Do not let the pump run until no more water comes out as it may damage the seals and burn the pump motor.

• Leave bike to cool down and for excess distilled water to be drained by gravity.

• When ready, pour new coolant into the radiator very slowly and allow the coolant to flow through the radiator through the pipes to the engine/pump. Keep on filling coolant till some water starts flowing at the drain outlet. Coolant level should recede slowly at this stage due to gravity.

• To “force” residual distilled water and bleed out any air bubbles trapped inside the system, start the engine and let it run on idle while continuing to pour new coolant into the reservoir. This part is slightly tricky and requires patience.

• Screw the drain plug/washer in place loosely, leaving a suitable gap for water and air to escape. When radiator is temporarily full, put back the radiator cap and fill up via the reservoir.

• When coolant flow is somewhat “stable”, snap the throttle 3~4 times to increase suction from the pump, this helps in the air bleeding process. Repeat as necessary.

• When satisfied that no air is trapped inside the system (radiator, pipes and engine), tighten the drain bolt/washer firmly in place and continue to fill the reservoir with coolant until the level stops residing.

A telltale sign could be that coolant in reservoir stops residing when bolt is closed completely but starts residing immediately when bolt is opened again as coolant below escapes from drain outlet.

• When coolant level stops residing, stop the engine, fill coolant till upper line of reservoir and put back the reservoir cap.

• Fit the right glove/storage compartment into place but suggest not to screw back the screws. This is to allow easier top up when the coolant level resides during the monitoring period.

• Fit the bottom-left fairing back to place and bike is ready for riding.

• Ride the bike and monitor the coolant level over the next few days, top up coolant as necessary. When/if level remains stable, tighten all screws and … ho-say liow

 

see FunkyChicken's contribution (with photos) at post #165 below

 

Where is the Radiator Cap and Reservoir?

They are below the right glove compartment, need to remove the compartment assembly to access.

 

http://r29.imgfast.net/users/2913/63/00/33/album/pr/sw_mai15_800x600.jpg

 

Where is the Drain Plug?

The drain plug is located at the lower left side, towards the front of the engine housing and below the big coolant hose (see pics). It looks like one of the bolts that hold the housing together.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWCoolant.jpg?t=1297235530

http://r29.imgfast.net/users/2913/63/00/33/album/pr/sw_mai14_800x600.jpg

 

Picture source:

ishkatan http://www.silverwing600.com/t1294-coolant-change-info-anybody

swf_admin http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=401

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWCoolantDrainPlug.jpg?t=1297235531

 

How much coolant to put in?

If I don’t remember wrongly, the FJS manuals indicated 3L (see note # at beginning of post).

I only managed to fill up about 2L over the change and topping up but more were required due to flushing done.

 

Subject: Re: Coolant Change Info?.... Anybody? Thu Jul 17, 2014 7:46 am

Well....changed the coolant yesterday. Service manual says system takes 2.3 quarts. The most I could get in was 1.75 quarts (excluding the overflow tank). I drained the system on the side stand and even shook the scoot to get any extra out. Anyone else have this issue?

 

Popular Coolants in Singapore Market

• Cycle Logis Engine Ice

• Maxima Cool-Aide

• Red Line Water Wetter

• Silkolene Pro-Cool

 

Unlike climate countries where temperatures in winter may cause coolants to become frozen, anti-freeze agents are not important in our tropical climate. Not sure about the bad effects of using car coolants, I guess sticking to the popular motorbike coolants won’t go wrong.

 

Note: Do not use coolants containing silicates as silicates may cause blockages at the radiators and premature damage to the water pump’s seals, resulting in pump breakdown, which in turn leads to a long list of engine problems.

The engine coolant is another thing they recommend a certain kind: Use Coolant with Silicate inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of radiator passages. Or Silacate-Free corrosion inhibitors 'Glycol'. Use 50% Soft water/distilled! It only takes 3.1 Quarts total.

Source: Riley on 2008-10-14 19:58 at http://silverwing.org

Note: 1 US quart is approximately 0.94L

 

About Ethylene Glycol used in coolants

(reference: Wikipedia)

The major use of ethylene glycol is as a medium for convective heat transfer in, for example, automobiles and liquid cooled computers.

 

Pure ethylene glycol has a specific heat capacity about one half that of water. So, while providing freeze protection and an increased boiling point, ethylene glycol lowers the specific heat capacity of water mixtures relative to pure water. A 50/50 mix by mass has a specific heat capacity of about 0.75 BTU/lb F, thus requiring increased flow rates in same system comparisons with water.

 

Ethylene glycol is moderately toxic with an oral LDLO (lowest published lethal dose) of 786 mg/kg for humans. The major danger is due to its sweet taste. Because of that, children and animals are more inclined to consume large quantities of it than they are other poisons. Upon ingestion, ethylene glycol is oxidized to glycolic acid which is, in turn, oxidized to oxalic acid, which is toxic. It and its toxic byproducts first affect the central nervous system, then the heart, and finally the kidneys. Ingestion of sufficient amounts can be fatal if untreated.

 

 

Posts on coolant change in other Forums:

at Silverwing600 forum: http://www.silverwing600.com/t1294-coolant-change-info-anybody

at Silverwing.org: http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/attach_show.pl?aid=152

Edited October 21, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Rode your SW till fuel tank “Bottoms Up”?

 

warning: regular drying may cause damage to your fuel pump, e.g. wearing of components and worst, burnt pump motor.

 

Here’s some ideas on what to do instead of pushing the bike all the way to the petrol station:

 

(a) If petrol station is nearby

Push bike to somewhere safe and secure it, walk to the station, buy a tin can for abt $3+, fill it up, then return to top up bike and whala.

I tried buying petrol with a 1.5L plastic soft-drink bottle but was told they can't sell like petrol that due to regulations (some anti-arson measures). Note that you’ll need to register your particulars in a booklet (they didn’t check my IC though)

 

(b) If petrol station is far … I did that

Similar to scenario (a) except to take a cab to the station-n-back. Suggest you tell the taxi driver your situation and seek his understanding to wait for you while you buy the tin can and petrol. Some cabbies are not willing to “waste” time waiting especially during peak hours. If bike stalled along road with bus service to petrol station, can try public transport but you'll need to smuggle the petrol up the bus for the return trip (combustible items are not allowed on public buses). Alternatively, take a taxi for return trip.

 

© Call a tow service... if suay suay stalled at expressway or some "wonderland"

Not many cabbies are willing to risk stopping along the expressway to pick up or alight you. Also, the hassle and cost of the whole episode may be more than that of using a tow service especially if you’re at some remote area (may need to pay booking for a cab). If so, better to use a tow service and have bike "carried" to the nearest petrol station. Cost of bike towing services are usually from about $30 onwards, with surcharges for late/wee hours or express service (usual waiting time from 30mins onwards). Remember to tell operator that the SW is big-n-heavy and better to have a hydraulic leveller, although plank-ramps are also workable but not preferred.

 

Some useful contacts…

Towing Services

• Bikebulance @ 64255333 / 9688-0928 /

• Mike Motor Recovery @ 90119199

• Bike Rescue @ 91894113

• Tow Broz (24hrs) @ 90619948 / 84083591

• The Reds Recovery (24hrs & overseas) @ 90119199 / 91829923

• Lim Ah Boy (yes, he also doing towing now) @ 62967914

• Vincent @ 97421118 / 94564392

• Ah Wai @ 97469591

• Jason @ 96168867

• Farid @ 83641338

• Speed Towing @ 96166852

• Ah Kit (Malaysia) @ 30122901135

• And of course… your regular motortiam’s contractors

 

Mobile Repair

• Ah Hua @97641031

• Ah Lai @ 94316851

• Ah Peng @ 90028236

Note: for SW, think they can do only basic stuffs like batt flat, or fuse blow, etc. IMO, may be better to tow bike to proper workshop.

 

(d) Call a friend/family member service

Ask a friend or family member who is free and don’t mind doing the “petrol delivery” service.

Remember to buy him a good makan hor… especially if you wake him up in the middle of the night or when he’s sweating hard to be “productive” for the future of Sinkapor

 

http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Transports/bike-038.gif

[FunkyChicken]

Remove screw, squeeze the side and lift up the compartment to access to coolant reservoir and cap.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4844.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4845.jpg

 

Inspect for rust or defect on the spring and rubber seal. replace if needed. Some uses performance radiator cap at higher pressure of 1.3kpa

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4863.jpg

 

Remove left bottom farring.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4846.jpg

 

Remove Flushing bolt and inspect crusher washer bolt. faulty crush washer will cause leakage.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4847.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4862.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4850.jpg

 

Water wetter additive coolant, shell coolant and radiator flush. Instructions for flush of radiator stated at the bottle.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG_4864.jpg

 

Remember to rev your engine after topping up the coolant to the brim. Method is call bleeding for air. Once coolant level doesn't sink when revved, coolant is fully filled.

 

Enjoy your DIY!

[scoobydoo]

TYPES OF SWITCHES

 

Different types of switches are designed and used to control specific functions or features of electrical applications, whether at home or on automobiles such as our Silver Wing.

If you do a count, you’ll be able to find at least different types of 10 switches onboard the Silver Wing, all controlling different components of the bike. As a matter of fact, the ignition key assembly is also a switch, a turn type.

E.g. Ignition key assembly, emergency engine kill switch, engine start safety switch (at left brake), engine start/crank switch, left and right brakes sensor switch, signal lights switch, high-beam headlight switch, high-beam passing light switch, horn switch, side stand sensor switch, tilt sensor switch, cabin light sensor (at the locking mechanism), etc.

 

Other than mechanical switches, there are other that are operated by process variables such as pressure, temperature, flow, current, voltage, and force, acting as sensors in a process and used to automatically control a system. E.g. temperature-operated switches used to control a heating process or prevent overheating known as a thermostat. A switch that is operated by another electrical circuit is called a relay.

 

So what are the different classifications switches?

 

Contacts

 

Switches are often categorized by the type of contacts they have. Basically, a switch has two conductive contacts (usually metal) that touches each other to close a circuit (allowing current to pass through), and separates to open the circuit (preventing current from passing through).

 

Various configurations of contacts in switches may be described by the number of Poles and Throws they possess.

 

Poles = the number of separate circuits which are controlled by a switch.

E.g. a "2-Pole" switch has two separate identical sets of contacts controlled by the same knob.

 

Throws = the number of separate positions that the switch can adopt.

E.g. a single-throw switch has one pair of contacts that can either be closed or open while a double-throw switch has a contact that can be connected to either of two other contacts.

 

Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) … 1 circuit, 1 position (either on or off).

E.g. emergency engine kill switch, brake light sensor switches, side-stand safety switch, etc.

 

Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) … 1 circuit, 2 position; i.e. 2 circuits but only 1 circuit may be switched on at any one time.

E.g. stock headlights using 2x H7 single-filament bulbs where low beam and high beams are mutually exclusive; low beam is by default turned on, activating the high beam or bypass switches would turn on the high beam and off the low beam simultaneously.

Instead of using 2x H7 bulbs, some cars/motorbikes use the H4 2-filament bulbs but the high and low beams remain mutually exclusive.

 

Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) … 2 circuits, 1 position (either on or off); i.e. 2 circuits are switched on and off at the same time. Equivalent to two SPST switches controlled by a single mechanism.

E.g. other than using a separate relay, a hazard lights circuit could be set up by adding a DPST switch to the existing signal light system. See illustrations.

 

Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) … 2 circuits, 1 position (either on or off); i.e. 2 circuits on

Equivalent to two SPDT switches controlled by a single mechanism.

E.g. these switches are also commonly used as add-ons to set up a hazard lights circuit.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Switches.jpg?t=1299574518

 

p/s:

next post shall cover circuitries for modding the SW's headlight and hazard lights

[etkach3]

Get the Swing its worth it:D

I jumped frm Scrambie to Scoottiee

 

Love my ride now:D

[anodise57]

miss the feel of having Swinger...

Maybe wait until everything settle down for ME liao.. then back to swing-in again.. hahha

[scoobydoo]

Headlights

The SW uses 2x H7 bulbs for its low and high beams.

Because H7 bulbs function only as either ON or OFF, the control of light beam is left to the multi-reflector lens inside the headlight unit.

 

Notice that the H7 bulb (shown below) has only 2 legs?

 

* For FJS/JDM, the upper bulb is for low beam, lower bulb is for high beam.

Also see post on Adjusting Headlight Angle

http://image5.sahibinden.com/photos/62/71/48/165627148a2h.jpg

* For SWT/GT, the left bulb is for low beam, right bulb is for high beam.

http://www.scooter-station.com/IMG/arton640.jpg

One eye "Jack" or 独眼龙?

Some SWingers don't like the "one-eye" arrangement of the SWT and has thought about modifying its headlights to "open both eyes". This involves changing from H7 to H4 bulbs for both left (low beam) and right (high beam) side.

This mod has 3 big hurdles:

 

(a) Electrical configuration. Because the stock/current circuitry is designed for H7, we need to redesign the circuit and mod both bulb sockets from H7 (2 pins) to H4 (3 pins). IMO, this is still pretty much achievable.

 

Notice that the H4 bulb (shown below) has 3 legs, as compared to 2 legs of a H7 bulb.

 

Wiring H7 wires to an H4 headlight

 

http://sacramentoridersforum.com/showthread.php?7449-Wiring-H7-wires-to-an-H4-headlight

 

(b) SW's high and low beam is controlled by the angles of the multi-reflectors inside the headlight unit, since the H7 bulbs only function as either on or off.

In order to have both shining down or up together, we will need to cut-n-mod the high beam's reflector, and possibly the low beam one as well if high beam using H4 in it can't shine high enough.

 

© LTA won't "like" it ... unapproved modifications

 

 

Difference between H4 and H7 bulbs.

http://www.ehow.com/facts_7572179_difference-between-h4-h7-headlights.html

 

H4 Bulbs

H4 bulbs contain two filaments, giving them the option of being either high- or low-beam lights. The bulb has a three-pronged attachment to the wiring harness. Originally developed for European race cars, these bulbs are very bright and can give off white, blue, violet or yellow light.

 

H7 Bulbs

H7 bulbs contain a single filament. H7 bulbs also come in white, blue, violet or yellow options. The most significant difference between the bulbs is the attachment. H7 bulbs fit different bulb sockets, having a two-pronged plug. Owner's manuals must be checked to determine type of bulb needed.

 

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/facts_7572179_difference-between-h4-h7-headlights.html

 

-------------------------------------

 

Circuit Diagrams

for some simple mods... Silver Wing lights

 

Headlights ... to enable "OFF" function

the stock setting for SW's low beam headlight by default on at all times. to have the option of switching it off, a simple SPST switch may be added to "break" the closed circuit, thus cutting off current supply to the bulb.

the recommended mod/wiring does not affect the high beam, i.e. it may still be switched on using the high beam switch or the passing "trigger".

 

note: tap at the wires next to the socket connection to the low beam bulb (upper one).

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWMod-Switches1.jpg

 

Signal Lights ... left and right are mutually exclusive

the stock setting for SW's left and right signal lights are mutually exclusive, i.e. only 1 may be activated at a time. default status is OFF.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWMod-Switches2.jpg

 

Signal Lights + Hazard Lights ... activating both simultaneously

to activate both left and right signal lights simultaneously, a bypass circuitry is required, using either a DPST or DPDT switch to ON or OFF both left and right signal lights at the same time.

 

note: tap at the wires near the left throttle assembly (where the stock signal light switch is) and running along the left side handlebar. remove the left side handlebar cover to access the relevant wires.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SWMod-Switches3.jpg

 

 

Wiring ... Colors

for the mods to work, tapping the right wires is important. all wires to components of the SW are color coded. color codes of wirings at SW's front section is shown below.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SignalWirings.jpg?t=1300367183

 

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SignalWirings-H4_zpsc71f018c.jpg

 

have fun

Edited December 22, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

I got mine from LAB... think it was $20. It's chrome and really heavy, can feel much less handlebar vibes. It'd also v smooth so that if (touch wood) it falls on the handlebar, it does not dig into the ground

 

But it didn't fit at first, must go to LAB workshop and they saw off a small part of the balancer. But the sawing not very smooth and flat, so I had to file off myself in the end.

Having to saw off the base part of the balancers means they sold you the "correct brand wrong spec" item.

 

Bar-End/Balancers for Silver Wing... not Honda typed

 

Typical balancers for Honda bikes have an extra part protruding out at the base (see pic below), designed to fit into a depression at the handlebar end. However, the SW's handlebar end design do not have that depression. Thus the "more fitable" ones should be Suzuki typed or any that's without the protruding section.

Not sure if the new SWT4/GT have different barend designs though but should be the same

Those planning to buy/replace balancers may wanna take note!

 

Photos of those Honda typed sold at most scooter shops and LAB... notice that it doesn't fit properly due to the extra "spacer" jutting out.

http://www.taihin.sg/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Extra_Big___Heav_49ed3e67d32e4.jpg

 

 

Motovation Bar-End Sliders

http://www.motovation-accessory.com.sg/index.php?act=product&id=16&a=0

 

From Motovation's webby, seems like 2 models can fit SW... gap or not depends on which you buy.

 

Made for Honda bikes... there's a special "half-spacer" built in specially for Honda handlebars but this can't fit our SW.

 

Recommended: Made for Suzuki bikes but can fit SW... no "spacer" but BMW grip may be too long for a perfect fit... need to put some ring spacers between.

http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/ProdImages/SSS02_lg.jpg

 

Made for Yamaha bikes... with built in "spacer". With BMW grips, there'll be a small gap. If not using BMW grips, there'll be a sizeable gap between the rubber grip and the bar-end.

http://www.motovationusa.com/images/SSY01.jpg

 

Throttlemeister Bar-End cum Cruise Control

http://throttlemeister.com/

 

If you're willing to splurge on some luxury yet functional bar-end, can consider the Throttlemeister cruise control. The cruise control is simple to use; engage by turning in the same direction as opening the throttle and disengage by turning in the same direction as closing the throttle. Can be operated wearing heavy gloves.

 

http://www.throttlemeister.com/app/resources/images/boss/dynarea/articles/B.O.B-and-G.M.G.jpg

http://throttlemeister.com/app/resources/images/boss/dynarea/articles/sizes.JPEG

http://throttlemeister.com/app/resources/images/boss/dynarea/articles/finishPolished.JPEG

http://throttlemeister.com/app/resources/images/boss/dynarea/articles/finishblackmilled.jpg

 

Manic Salamander Bar-End cum Throttle Lock

http://www.manicsalamander.com/products.aspx

 

Other than Throttlemeister, Manic Salamander has heavy bar-ends that reduce vibrations and function also as mechanical cruise controls.

 

http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/5233/12-6-tl-t-300.jpg

http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/7648/17-6-tl-t-300.jpg

http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/7903/16-6-tl-t-300.jpg

They also have adaptors for fitting bar-end mirrors.

http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/7518/12-6-tl-c-144.jpg

 

 

Do I need Cruise Control?

 

It depends on individual's needs but basically, very useful for long distance trips where riders usually suffer what is commonly referred to as "death grip". Rider's right palm's muscles gets "cramps" due to fatigue from gripping/holding the throttle at desired angle over prolonged period so as to keep the bike going. If grip has insufficient strength/friction, throttle tube will slowly "creep" towards close position due to the return spring mechanism.

 

Mechanical cruise control solutions from Throttlemeister and Manic Salamander use "friction stoppers" built into the bar-ends to prevent throttle tubes from returning to their close position, eliminating the need to grip the throttle tubes tight once activated. Good idea, simple solution but need to pay premium for their innovative products.

 

Much cheaper alternative:

The very much cheaper alternative to a cruise control is to use a throttle rocker. No NASA science behind but simply a plastic level clipped onto the right hand throttle which allows the rider to use his palm to press-turn the throttle instead of grip-turn.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Pzd-vcyCL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71YvX7FxnrL.jpg

 

Although the original Crampbuster Throttle Rocker costs near S$20 (with shipping), LAB as cheaper "compatibles" sold for only abt $4+.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21BZTPWE9ML._SL160_AA160_.jpg

 

Warning: Users need to make sure the extra piece dun get caught with their long sleeved riding jackets, or obstructed by the palm when closing the throttle (happens when angle is set too high). Could be a potential hazard when e-braking is required.

Edited July 22, 2015 by scoobydoo

[Fusionjaz]

Screen Extension

 

I did some research on extended wind screen to cut wind buffeting. The criterion I establish are as follow:

• Keep the existing windscreen
  
• No drilling/cutting require
  
• Strength of the existing windscreen is not affected after installing the extension.
  

 

With the above criterion in mind these are the extension I have found

 

MRA X Creen

An extension which allows rider to adjust the angle to deflect the head wind and slight extension to the height. You have the option to drill and bolt on permanently or purchase a U clamp to facilitate swift removal (fortunately it comes with clamp on option if not it would have been filter out)

http://www.akf-shop.de/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/69291_0__10008897.jpg

http://www.bikehps.com/mra/x-creen/X-creen_animation.gif

 

Laminar

This is also an extension but does not come with an option of angle adjustment. The angle has been fixed, all you have is adjusting height. You do not have the liberty to adjust the height because it uses the double sided tape to secure the extension. I suggest riders who choose this option may consider to go for a few riding test before securing it permanently (double side tape it).

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/4058865493_c24848cb30.jpg

Front profile

 

http://www.laminarlip.com/silverwing.jpg

Side profile

 

 

 

Wunderlich Wind Deflector

Wunderlich is a re-nown name for BMW motorcycle accessories. I happen to discover they have a wind deflector which can fit most motorcycle and it is so user friendly. All you need is a screen driver and a alley key. Personally I think this is a very good option.

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/8110025a.jpg

Installed

 

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/8110025b.jpg

Adjustment

 

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/8110025c.jpg

Bracket detail view

 

Edited May 8, 2011 by Fusionjaz

[scoobydoo]

Aftermarket Wind Shields for Honda Silver Wing

 

Givi Windshield for SW

 

Among the aftermarket windshields or windscreens available for SW, those made by Givi could be said to be most popular and most up to date. Other than those for FJS/JDM SW which Givi has offered 2 variants, it has also offered shields for the new SWT/GT SW, ahead of other competitors.

 

For FJS/JDM SW (1 module headlight):

http://www.givi.it/My-motorcycle/?ma=HONDA&mo=Silver-Wing-400-06--09

 

* 214DT … transparent H 63cm (10 cm higher than stock) x W 60cm.

http://www.revzilla.com/product_images/0025/6624/d_47317_detail.jpg

 

* AF214 (airflow design) … sliding transparent wind-screen, maximum H 57cm (12cm of extension) x W 59cm.

http://www.revzilla.com/product_images/0026/1431/609_large_detail.jpg

 

For SWT/GT SW (2 module headlights):

http://www.givi.it/My-motorcycle/?ma=HONDA&mo=SW-T-400-09--10

 

* D318ST … transparent H 89cm (18 cm higher than stock) x W 67cm.

http://www.motocard.com/Soporte/MontaImg.aspx?Image=M-0446691T.gif&Width=330

 

* D318B … sports screen H 52cm x W 49cm.

http://www.motocard.com/Soporte/MontaImg.aspx?Image=M-0446681T.gif&Width=330

 

* AF318 (airflow design) … sliding transparent wind-screen, maximum H 78cm (12cm of extension) x W 66cm.

http://media.givi.it/Prodotti/foto/AF318.jpg

 

 

Our Kaki’s SWT-400 using Givi AF318 (Air Flow)…

http://img.tapatalk.com/dcff0140-ede1-8569.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/7cc54d8a-a0f0-2ee2.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/7cc54d8a-a141-8ae0.jpg

 

Our Kaki’s FJS SW using Givi 214DT…

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/Atlantic200/web-1.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16/Atlantic200/web-2.jpg

 

Where to get?

Givi authorised distributor in Singapore is CYCLENET PTE LTD

1179 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328232

Tel: 62956393, 62950748

Email: elyngoh10@yahoo.com.sg

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:1179 SERANGOON ROAD

company is together with Mah Pte Ltd (not Mah Motor), dunno same boss or not.

 

you can check with them directly or ask your workshop mechanic whether he/she can get a better price

 

Rider can also buy online at web shops such as Twisted Throttle, Helmet Head Cycle, etc. and many others.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/698

http://www.helmetheadcycle.com/product/12546/givi-af214-honda-silver-wing-400-600-2801-1129-airflow-windshield

http://www.scooterwest.com/item_details/Givi-Honda-Silverwing-Windshield-Tall/3736

 

An issue with wider windshields:

Givi shields are made of transparent polycarbonate and are larger (higher and wider) than the stock shields. Users need to note that after installation, the wider shield is likely to obstruct the side mirrors when attempting to turn the handlebar to maximum angle. While some users ignore this limitation, a common solution is to install side mirror extenders to shift the side mirrors further outwards.

 

E.g. of extender sold at Ebay.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10mm-Mirror-Riser-Extender-Adapter-Honda-Silverwing-/250544788456?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a55a213e8#ht_1126wt_932

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-10mm-Mirror-Riser-Extender-Adapter-Honda-Silverwing-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a60a70dacQQitemZ250729663916QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

E.g. of SW using side mirror extender…

http://www.silverwing600.com/t2887-mirror-extenders

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4256/307n.jpg

http://i68.servimg.com/u/f68/12/74/43/20/2006_c11.jpg

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=810&pictureid=9510

 

 

Other Aftermarket Wind Shields

 

 

Ermax Shields

http://www.ermax.fr/modele2-2001_2009-1423.html

Motoworld (Singapore) is also selling (prices listed):

. . . http://www.motoworld.com.sg/ermax?limit=75

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n4gqiqIlEoqgi 0KUKD4i 0KIOrIiKKIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiD/2Q==

 

Other sellers in SBF

. . . http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/365128-ERMAX-Windscreen-(Made-in-France)

 

Clear View Shields

http://www.clearviewshields.com/

http://clearviewshields.com/shop/product.php?id=29

The windshields comes with UV protection, option of clear or tinted, uses 3/16" thick material for more strength and comes in 4 different heights to suit riders’ preferences, has 4" added width for increased protection for arms and shoulders, contoured Shape for improved air flow, upper reverse curve guides air upwards to reduce wind on riders’ face/helmet for a quieter ride. http://clearviewshields.com/shop/prodthumbs/motorcycle_windshields_da009a3dc.jpg

 

Cee Baileys Aircraft Plastics

http://www.ceebaileys.com/honda/silverwingws.html

Manufactured from .150 aircraft grade acrylic and available in clear, green, light & dark gray tints. They come in four sizes (22”~25” heights), about 3” wider, incorporated a subtle reverse curve to guide air up and over the rider to reduces turbulent buffeting effects.

http://www.ceebaileys.com/honda/images/hondasilverwingws_main.jpg

 

p/s: this manufacturer also sells headlight protector for FJS/JDM SW.

http://www.ceebaileys.com/honda/silverwingrd.html

Made of aircraft grade acrylic, they come complete with 3M dual-lock fasteners for attachment to the headlight.

 

 

 

Caution: when using higher/larger windshields

 

Although the use of taller windshields provides more wind protection to the rider, they may become a hazard in foul weather when riders’ vision of the road ahead may be impaired by rain droplets gathered on the windshields due to surface tension. Some riders apply “anti-friction” products (e.g. Rain-X, Plexus, Pledge, etc.) on the front surface windshields’ to reduce this tendency but the effectiveness of such measures usually do long last long.

Basically, it is safer for rider to look over the windshield rather than through it.

 

Another thing to note is that windshields react unfavorably to crosswinds. The larger a windshield is, the higher its tendency to act as a wind-sail. When it "catches" a strong crosswind, its likely to sway or rock the SW sideways, compromising its stability. A sudden strong gust catching the unsuspecting rider off guard could well throw both the bike and its rider(s) off balance, causing unfortunate consequences.

 

Edited February 1, 2016 by scoobydoo

[E GREAT1]

Hi Mr scoobydoo, I c u know alot of stuff.. don mind sharing ur knowledge wif me? N maybe some advise? Actually i hav some problem makin decision over Maxi scooter.. as comparing Price, Durabilty of engine, and speed.. So after reading i narrow down to Sliverwing 400, 600 , Suzuki Burgman 400 and Tmax500... Hmm.. Any advise for me? Oo ya n i m 1.63cm SHORT:( N my onli concern is Price, Durabilty of engine, speed and maintenance:) Thank u:)

[scoobydoo]

IMO, other than a few minor flaws, I would consider Silver Wing (SW) a near perfect touring maxi-scooter, regardless whether it is the 400cc or the 600cc big brother (slightly higher top speed but less fuel efficient). The SW’s designers probably had prioritised comfort over road handling of the SW but to me, its front fork springs are way too soft and rear twin shocks would be better if it could be a little stiffer. That’s my main complaint of the SW, other than its pricey “tupperwares”.

 

Luckily, there’re aftermarket fork springs and rear shocks available to overcome these flaws.

 

After-Market Fork Springs

 

Hyperpro Fork Springs

 

While there are many aftermarket makes and models available for bikes and scooters, most SWingers here use the Hyperpro springs. Many of us (including myself) are presently using it and we are confident to say that instant improvements to handling could be experienced after the change. As with all products, there’s always a trade off… we get better road grip and handling at the expense of some comfort. We feel more of the bumps and unevenness of the roads.

 

http://hyperpro.com/en/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2014/03/Hyperpro_Springkit_v01-1024x683.jpg

 

Hyperpro Spring Kit

http://www.hyperpro.com/index.asp?page=springkits

 

Where to get it?

The spring kits are available usually on “order basis” and deposits are usually required by the bike shops. A set generally costs about S$280 ~ S$320 including shipping and installation.

• Hodaka Motoworld Pte Ltd (aka Motoworld)

http://www.motoworld.com.sg/

• Unique Motorsports Pte Ltd

http://www.uniquemotorsports.com.sg/

• Buy online

e.g. Wemoto.com

 

Bitubo Fork Springs

 

Although Bitubo does have fork springs for Silver Wing, we are not aware of any SWingers who is currently using the. Not sure but the culprit could be its price.

 

MF019 Spring + Oil Scooter Kit

http://www.bitubo.com/images/MFORK.jpg

 

Butibo dealer in Singapore is:

Mezzo International Pte Ltd

10 Kaki Bukit Road 1, #01-03 Singapore 416175

Tel. 68421907 Fax 68421908

Contact: Mr. Andrew Morrice ([email protected])

 

 

After-Market Twin Shocks (Rear)

 

With the Hyperpro fork springs, we upgrade the SW’s road handling by one level. The next level of handling improvement could be obtained by changing the rear shocks to something that are stiffer. The stock shocks come with 5 settings (1~5) for adjusting their stiffness via preloading. As a lightweight rider (63kg) who seldom carry a pillion, I use settings 3 when the bike was new and have increased settings to 4 as the 4 years old shocks becomes weaker due to wear and tear. Nevertheless, the increased spring preloading "stiffen" the shocks but the dampening effect is still lacking... time to change.

 

A pair of Honda stock shocks costs around S$420 (S$210 each) from a Honda parts seller (e.g. FJT), a price which is higher than some aftermarket shocks (GST included but installation not included).

 

Stock Shocks

http://www.silverwing400.it/immagini_tecniche/Ammo_post_3.jpg

 

 

A quick search in the Internet showed that aftermarket shocks for SW are available from:

• Hagon (popular)

A pair of Hagon twin shocks costs HK$2,000 including shipping (approx $330) from Hagon’s HK distributor but better prices could be obtained from some European web resellers (

• Bitubo

Some motorshops can order Bitubo shocks (usually directly from Italy) on our behalf but they will be a very much higher investment compared to Hagon; estimated to cost >$1K including shipping and installation. E.g. Future Scootering (Mr Kenny) orders parts from Italy regularly and may be able get a good price.

• YSS

YSS distributor in Singapore is Chong Aik Internaltional Pte Ltd (http://www.chongaik.com.sg/). Those interested may check with them if they will import the twin shocks for SW on order basis. No pricing available from YSS yet.

A lot depends on what you want and how much you're willing to spend on the upgrade or replacement. Most of our kakis are using Hagon since it is reasonably priced.

 

Hagon Shocks

http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/images/haglogogif.gif

 

Special shocks for Majesty, Silver Wing, BMW C1, Leonardo etc.

Featuring adjustable special "multi rate" progressive action springs, long stroke, wide-viscosity index oil for use in all temperatures.

Supplied in complete pairs with spring adjuster spanner.

http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/HagShocks.htm

 

According to Hagon sites, spring covers are also available as add-ons.

http://www.hagonoz.com.au/HagShocks.htm

 

Unfortunately, there is no distributor/retailer shop in Singapore so we would have to “import” them ourselves. Worldwide distributors list:

http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/common/pagedetail.aspx?PageCode=distributors

Nearest distributor to Singapore is at Hong Kong.

 

Power Motorcycle Specialist

Shop No. 8-9 Fook Kwan Building, Ground Floor, 42-44 Pok Man Street

Tai Kok Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

 

SILVERWING 400/600 (HK$1,700.00). The postage is HK$300 for each pair.

 

Leo Chin

POWER MOTORCYCLE SPECIALIST

Shop 9, G/F., 42, Pok Man St., Tai Kok Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Tel : 852 2390 3949, Fax : 852 2391 9434

 

Another source would be to buy online, from web-shops like WEMOTO.com

 

 

See my invoice here for the price:

 

Got it from: http://www.wemoto.com/

Turnover inclusive of delivery is around 1 week plus. They reply pretty quickly to enquiries, and that's really good. Cheapest I've found online liao.

 

For the shock length, when Ah Chong and I measure it, it's exactly the same length from pivot to pivot. So, it's not really any longer.

 

As for the shorter spring. I understand your concern, but personally I rather use what they send me as I prefer higher shock as that will improve handling imho. Maybe you should try mine or Fusionjaz first before deciding how much shorter you should get.

 

Today ride through bt timah bumpy road, to sunset way. Really like the handling with the new shock, but quite uncomfortable when I hit the drain. Starting to like it alot. Can do tighter turns liao. hee

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/titaniclexus/IMG_0947.jpg

 

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/titaniclexus/untitled-1.jpg

 

According to Hagon, the default length of Hagon Type M twin shocks for SW is 430mm long. From the above picture, the Hagon shock seems to be much longer (at "natural" length), but actual measurement showed that difference is about 5mm.

 

According to feedback from many Hagon users, the rear of SW becomes about 30~50mm higher after fitting the hagon twin shocks. This, they say, could be due to Hagons being 5mm longer and using stiffer springs that holds the weight of the rear section higher against gravity. The softer springs of the stock shocks allows the rear to "sag" lower, especially with pillion.

 

Just an idea... to lower the rear from stock height:

Suppose the rear height of SW after fitting the hagon is about 30mm higher. I am considering the use of shocks that are about 50~70mm shorter than the stock length. plus-n-munis, the rear section could be lowered by about 20~40mm. There is enough clearance between rear wheel and rear "mudguard" to lower the rear by that much. Also, Hagon springs are stiffer and thus "sags" less when under weight and/or going over humps. Nevertheless, lowering the height of the rear would mean lowering the ground clearance of the SW as well.

 

Bitubo Shocks

 

http://www.bitubo.com/images/club.gif

 

Bitubo shocks costs much more than both the Honda stock and Hagon shocks. A initial quote from a motorshop in Singapore price a set of Bitubo WGE rear shocks usable for SW at around S$1,000 (not including labour); actual price fluctuates due to exchange rates and shipping mode/costs other than price from overseas dealers. So far, we are not aware of SWingers using the Bitubos and none of our kakis is using them.

 

H0111WGE02 Twin Shocks

http://www.bitubo.com/images/WGE0.jpg

 

Butibo dealer in Singapore is:

Mezzo International Pte Ltd

10 Kaki Bukit Road 1, #01-03 Singapore 416175

Tel. 68421907 Fax 68421908

Contact: Mr. Andrew Morrice ([email protected])

 

Relevant posts/URL:

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/225675-SBF-Silverwings-Cafe-2009-2010-JDM-Euro-400-600?p=6691935&highlight=bitubo#post6691935

http://database.photozac2.com/bitubo_database/FMPro?-db=bitubo.fp5&-format=ris_ricerca_modello_en.htm&-lay=principale&-sortfield=cilindrata&marca2=HONDA&tipo=scooter&-recid=33621&-find=

http://database.photozac2.com/bitubo_database/FMPro?-DB=prodotti_eng.fp5&-Format=scheda_prodotto2_en.html&Nome_prodotto=WGE&-Find

 

YSS Shocks

http://cmuf1.eng.cmu.ac.th/img/logo-yss.jpg

http://images.wemoto.com/full/SHOCKS_YSS/10058931.jpg

Wemoto.com listed the "Rear YSS ECO Twin Shocks" as follows:

. . . item price (pair) £152.95

. . . plus shipping/insurance £30.89

. . . less VAT £30.64 (shipping to outside UK)

. . . total price for order = £153.20

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/fjs_400_silverwing_a9_d9/09/picture/rear_yss_eco_twin_shocks/

The ECO line uses a reservoir with a bladder for smoother linear movement and better cooling. Calibrated Sinter Seal Blocks and hard chrome shafts are used for better precision.

 

 

YSS ECO rear twin scooter shocks are a high performance product:

* Gas emulsion for a quicker reaction and more predictably

* Thread spring preload

All YSS shocks have ISO and ABE certification from German regulation authority TUV and come with a two year warranty.

 

RZ362-420TR is a gas/emulsion shock with adjustable damping. They are $499/pair + shipping.

RE302-420T is a standard hydraulic type shock. They are not adjustable and are $299/pair + shipping.

For Honda SW 400cc/600CC

• TE302-420T-01AL

• TZ362-420TR-01

http://www.yssusa.com/product-code-explain.html

http://www.yss.co.th/z_series.php

http://www.yss.co.th/network.php

 

Sole distributor of YSS in Singapore is:

Chong Aik International Pte Ltd

No. 221 Onan Road, Singapore 424603

Tel. 63455183, Fax. 63447376

 

Not sure if YSS shocks would be cheaper in Malaysia, distributors next door are:

Syarikat Motosikal Sunny

37 Jalan Pahang (Titiwangsa), Setapak

53300 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Tel. 603-4021-6611, Fax. 603-4021-1088

 

H.K. Cycle Parts Sdn. Bhd.

13 & 15 Jalan SG. 10/4 Taman Sri Gombak,

68100 Batu Caves, Belangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia

Tel. 603-618-7-8606, 603-618-7-0128, Fax. 603-618-62128

 

Unfortunately, no price information is available

 

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Suspension/d8e22268.jpg

 

 

 

 

Acknowledgments:

Many thanks to fellow SWingers for contributing their photos.

Information posted are mostly taken from Hagon, Bitubo and YSS websites.

Edited February 2, 2016 by scoobydoo

[E GREAT1]

@scoobydoo Thank u so much for e advice!!! :) Ur knowledge is better den those bike shop sales man! They onli tok cock to me.. hahahaa thank u once again!!!!

[Ah_Pet]

when buying 2nd hand SW, how to check to condition of the belt, rollers etc? [have to open out and see?]

and what and where is all tupperwares? how to check that also?

[scoobydoo]

the swingarm/transmission outer cover (black) and inner cover (aluminium) needs to be removed to access to transmission assembly/parts inside. to check the rollers, the front variator unit needs to be taken apart before the rollers could be checked for physical conditions. for belt, most mechanics will remove it and bend it slightly to check for chaffing (signs of rubber breaking down). remember not to bend the belt too much as the belt will become damaged, even when it is in good condition. brand new belts will also show chaffing when bent over a certain amount. doing all these need both knowhow and necessary tools. i.e. advisable to pay a little (about $30~$40+) and let a reliable mechs to do it, and clean the assemblies at the same time.

 

unfortunately, you won't be able to check the transmission until you've bought the bike; unless you can negotiate with seller that you want mech to check before you decide whether to buy. hmmm... extremely unlikely to happen

only way is to look for telltale signs such as:

* odometer mileage after the last change (rollers usually last abt 18k~20+k under non-abused usage) but seller may not tell you the truth

* any abnormal sound from the front variator area and/or clutch assembly

* is transition smooth when increasing/decreasing rpm gradually

* if rear wheel is spinning slowly at idle, chances are clutch assembly (pegs' pinion) needs servicing/cleaning

in any case, these are wear and tear items which doesn't cost too much and it is always recommended to do full servicing (change if necessary) after purchasing an use bike.

 

tupperwares = fairings

similar to all scooters, the SW's "clothe" is made up of many pieces of fairings, covering from front to rear, top to bottom. checking the tupperwares usually means looking out for:

* scratches/abrasion wounds from drops and/or skidding incidents

* cracks or damaged/broken pieces

* gaps between pieces or joints not nicely flushed (chances are the "holding/alignment clips" inside are broken)

* missing or non-SW/makeshift pieces

 

why the fuss about the SW's exterior conditions? yes, broken or defective pieces can be replaced and colors resprayed. problem is, they are not cheap. e.g. the head cowl costs about $400+, rear side fairing (piece with insignia) costs about $200 each, etc. and if can't find new fairings of the same color, need to spray paint the pieces for match. to replace the FJS headlight itself costs about $400+ if the clear plastic cover is cracked, can't just change the clear plastic cover.

replace this and that, then suddenly realise the purchase become $1~2k more expensive

[Ah_Pet]

deleted

10 chars

Edited June 8, 2011 by Ah_Pet

[scoobydoo]

Valve Clearance

 

The thing that opens them is called a cam or camshaft. Valve clearance (or tappet clearance) refers to the small gap between the cam and the cam follower, or between the top of the valve and the tappet or rocker arm that pushes the valve open.

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b1/Four_stroke_cycle_exhaust.png/200px-Four_stroke_cycle_exhaust.png

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/valve/cam1.jpg

 

The valve clearance needs to be checked/adjusted "occasionally" because the moving components wear out over time with use and if the clearance fall out of the specified range, may result in excessive wear-n-tear (if not enough clearance) or lost in performance and/or "tappety"/noisy engine (if too much clearance).

 

While adjusting the clearance may be easy for some engines (turning some adjustment bolts or screws), how much to adjust is the very tricky part. This is especially so because the components expands when hot and contracts when cold, causing variations to their respective dimensions.

 

When to do?

 

Generally signs of necessity are when:

* the engine sounds noisy, rattly or "tappety"; i.e. when the usual "tik tik tik" sound becomes very loud or "rough", and/or

* the engine looses power.

There are also many recommendations from webbies, mostly recommending intervals of around every 40k~60k kms, for motorcycles.

 

Although the SW owner's manual (Maintenance Schedule) indicated to "Inspect" valve clearance at 25+k kms (every?), some owners at SW forums recommends checks at every 50k kms instead, some even advocated that it is not necessary.

 

For the SW, checking valve clearance is a rather tedious task. The seat, rear bodyworks (aka tupperware) and engine cover panels have to be remove to access the valve cover. That's a job very unlike opening the transmission cover. But the biggest hurdle is finding a mechanic who has the necessary tools and skills to do it properly

 

[scoobydoo]

did a speed-log to find out how much off is our speedometer reading to "real " speed... done over flat ground (not downslope) along E2 NS expressway.

 

Speedo ... to ... RPM ... to ... GPS

 

60km/h .... ≈3500rpm ..... ≈xx km/h

70km/h .... ~ 4000rpm ..... ≈xx km/h

80km/h .... ~ 4500rpm ..... ~ xx km/h

90km/h .... ~ 5000rpm ..... ~ 84km/h

100km/h ... ~ 5500rpm ... ~ 94km/h

110km/h ... ~ 6000rpm ... ~ 103km/h

120km/h ... ~ 6500rpm ... ~ 114km/h

130km/h ... ~ 7000rpm ... ~ 123km/h

140km/h ... ~ 7500rpm ... ~ 134km/h

150km/h ... ~ 8000rpm ... ~ 144km/h

160km/h ... ~ RED!rpm ... ~ 153km/h

 

generally...

* idle rpm by usually set to 1100rpm (factory sometimes set to 1300+rpm)

* clutch starts to bite/move bike at approx. 2100~2300rpm (stock setup)

_ (biting point depends on age of clutch-peg springs, higher if changed to stiffer ones)

* when slowing down, clutch "disengages" when rpm drops to around 1800~2000rpm

* our speedo is calibrated about 6~7km/h higher than the "actual".

_ (i'll fill in the blanks and revise the data as and when available)

 

why stop at 160km/h (~9000rpm)? max throttle liow, turned till max but can't go higher... unless remove top box, lighten bike (e.g. no barang barang & lighter fuel load)

 

some info on bike in run

manufacture year: 2006

period of test: Apr 2009

odometer: ~27k kms

body/windshield: stock (no mods), plus E45 top box

transmission set: everything stock, belt/rollers/sliders changed ~5km before the run

engine oil: liqui moly 10w50

spark plugs: denso iridium IUH24, changed at 21K kms

enhancements: power abuser 2

tires: pirelli diablo scooter, nitrogen fill at recommended pressure

suspension: front hyperpro springs / rear stock

fuel level: >80%

underseat storage: loaded

rider weight: ~63kg

GPS used: garmin nuvi 550, malsing jerome map

Edited August 30, 2011 by scoobydoo

[hoea]

Hi to all scooter kaki & gurus,

 

I am new in the forum excuse me ,i am currently riding a Kymco grand dink 150 and thought of upgarding ,need advise on what is the differance between the T-Max 500 and the silver wing 400 ?

 

Second do you all kaki buy your bikes from the agent ?

 

Thanks for your time

[ric78]

What type of diff u wish to know???

For specs, u can find them easily online.

 

Silverwing is 400cc so 2A license is enough but Tmax is 500cc so require Class 2.

Silverwing underseat can store 2 full face but Tmax only 1.

Silverwing is very quiet and smooth, more to executive style while Tmax is slightly rougher and noisy but more powerful and better handling with a very sporty look.

Silverwing has 2 rear shock but Tmax has 1.

Comfort wise for rider is almost the same for both bikes but I feel for pillion, silverwing is much better.

Petrol consumption is almost the same.

[hachi]

TS what is ur intended purpose???

Sporty riding & touring or comfort plus touring or just commute in SG???

[sting]

Sorry to hijack your thread hoea. I was wondering what is the difference in maintenance?

[hoea]

Thanks to all for the quick reply,

Sporty , Riding in SG and most of all Reliable ( maintanance ) and maybe will try touring.

1.Any advise to buy from agent or bike shop ? ( recomend bike shop and where will be best.

2.Any recomended bike shop for maintanance besides agent..?