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Posted
Normally chapalang bike shop dun use feeler gauge but the mech seasoned enough until he can agar until so zhun the range the bike can work properly. But he not season den anyhow agar plus dun use a feeler gauge, comfirm he will not get it in the right range.

 

Wow serious? They don't even use a feeler gauge?

 

I've sent bikes for valve clearance jobs in the past but have never stayed to see how/what they do, because I'd have to sit there the whole day. Now you made me wonder....

 

But without using a feeler gauge I really don't see how it's possible to agar something so small as valve clearance, I mean I frankly don't think it can be done.

 

Does anyone have feedback on which shop they've been to where they personally seen the mech using a feeler gauge to check the clearance?

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Posted
Wow serious? They don't even use a feeler gauge?

 

I've sent bikes for valve clearance jobs in the past but have never stayed to see how/what they do, because I'd have to sit there the whole day. Now you made me wonder....

 

But without using a feeler gauge I really don't see how it's possible to agar something so small as valve clearance, I mean I frankly don't think it can be done.

 

Does anyone have feedback on which shop they've been to where they personally seen the mech using a feeler gauge to check the clearance?

 

I think if you practice something a million times, you can get it done to almost perfect. And sometimes almost perfect is good enough.

 

These single cyl are not very demanding and they can take a good thrashing.

Scooter Tuning Is Not A Crime.

Posted
Wow serious? They don't even use a feeler gauge?

 

I've sent bikes for valve clearance jobs in the past but have never stayed to see how/what they do, because I'd have to sit there the whole day. Now you made me wonder....

 

But without using a feeler gauge I really don't see how it's possible to agar something so small as valve clearance, I mean I frankly don't think it can be done.

 

Does anyone have feedback on which shop they've been to where they personally seen the mech using a feeler gauge to check the clearance?

 

I think if you practice something a million times, you can get it done to almost perfect. And sometimes almost perfect is good enough.

 

These single cyl are not very demanding and they can take a good thrashing.

Scooter Tuning Is Not A Crime.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Guys guys guys!

 

I send my bike for my mech to adjust. Now the tapping sound gone. Engine is very smooth.

 

But now my top speed on straight road only 95km/h, the pickup is very bad and slow. I now need to change gear comfortably at 7k rpm! Last time only 4.5k to 5k, and still got sufficient power to when shift. Now if i shift at that rpm, engine really weak, bike barely accelerates.

 

Gear 5 still got 1.5 to 2 sec throttle lag. Worse, want to climb hill must throttle alot, more than before just to climb up the hill. Like totally no power. And now, engine brake like damn weak! Super weak. Last time down 1 gear, got effect. Now i have to down 2 gear to feel the significant effect.

 

Everytime i throttle, i feel like, the power is escaping. You know like when you open throttle, you fell the maximum 'oomph'. But now, i feel like, only 60% oomph, the rest of the gas, like just escapes.

 

Just did a top overhaul about a month ago, on and off, keep going back to the mech to adjust this and that and finish run in already, a few weeks back. Fuel consumption now very bad, about 32km/l. Last time 37km/l ++.

 

I need your views on this guys. I hate going back to the mech again and again and again. Damn sickkening. So far. I just want to know what could be wrong. Thanks.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted

DeeJay, does your bike more difficult to start when the engine is worm now? Sounds like a tight/no valve clearance to me :thirsty:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted

Here goes the armchair mechanics again.

 

Cylinder head

Valves sealing properly?

Proper valve clearances set?

Camshaft not worn out?

Rocker arms in good condition?

Cam timing set properly?

 

Cylinder block

Piston and rings of the correct size?

Piston ring gap correct?

Cylinder walls in good condition?

 

Clutch

Clutch components worn out?

Clutch freeplay set correctly?

 

Your gearbox not opened up right? So will not discuss this.

 

Seriously, just bring the bike to a competent and reputable mechanic. You are just shooting in the dark. In addition, no one on the net can accurately tell you what is wrong without physically examining the bike.

Past: KDX200, LC4 400, LC4 620, GSXR750WR

Present: CBR900RRY, Gas Gas EC250, XR250L, XR250RV, XR400 (motard-ed), NX650 Dominator

Posted

Emo emo emo emo emo emo...

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted (edited)
Change mech la bro. Maybe overtightened this time? Did u make sure he used a feeler gauge this time?

 

Any good mech to recommend?

Edited by crazydj

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted

Hmm, this morning, when i press my electric start, nothing happens. The neutral light goes very dim. That's all. Horn, signal lights, headlights all working fine.

 

Kick start, cannot start. The like, when i kick, i don't feel as much resistance. Feels like, the compression not enough. So smooth to kick down but nothing happens. So bo pian have to push start to start. Then it started okay liao.

 

The funny thing was yesterday when i came back home, the engine was unusually hot. Other than that, everything was working fine. Any ideas what could be wrong guys?

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted
Hmm, this morning, when i press my electric start, nothing happens. The neutral light goes very dim. That's all. Horn, signal lights, headlights all working fine.

 

Kick start, cannot start. The like, when i kick, i don't feel as much resistance. Feels like, the compression not enough. So smooth to kick down but nothing happens. So bo pian have to push start to start. Then it started okay liao.

 

The funny thing was yesterday when i came back home, the engine was unusually hot. Other than that, everything was working fine. Any ideas what could be wrong guys?

 

Valve too tight? this one absolute wild guess.

 

Valve clearance too tight to overhead cam pressing the valve open so no resistence when kick start.

 

Engine unusually hot. Top or whole engine? Too tight valve will result in overheated valve as there not enough positive contact for the valve to loose heat thru valve seat.

 

Or The valve are not closing properly, U are have air leaks. so engine is running lean. thus hot

Posted
Valve too tight? this one absolute wild guess.

 

Valve clearance too tight to overhead cam pressing the valve open so no resistence when kick start.

 

Engine unusually hot. Top or whole engine? Too tight valve will result in overheated valve as there not enough positive contact for the valve to loose heat thru valve seat.

 

Or The valve are not closing properly, U are have air leaks. so engine is running lean. thus hot

 

Bro, i think you are right. This is what i also felt from the start. The valves are easily "open", hence the intake and exhaust are easily escape before the force of the full explosion is efficiently harnessed.

 

For the engine, i can't really tell whether its the top or the whole engine. But it became so hot where after a normal ride back from school leads until the point i can feel the heat going through my thick jeans.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted

My bike's exhaust smells like petrol...

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted (edited)

thats no good....unburnt petrol i guess..

engine unusually hot points to a lean mix...get it fix..before it screws up your bike..

 

but the above contradit each other...you have bad combustion in one and overly efficient combustion in the lean mix...so confusing now.

 

 

if a mech takes too much time in overcoming the problem...he has a problem..seek another one.

Edited by ezzyoiler

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted
thats no good....unburnt petrol i guess..

engine unusually hot points to a lean mix...get it fix..before it screws up your bike..

 

but the above contradit each other...you have bad combustion in one and overly efficient combustion in the lean mix...so confusing now.

 

 

if a mech takes too much time in overcoming the problem...he has a problem..seek another one.

 

Could it be the carb giving problem, in addition to the valves? Since the last adjustment, the tapping sound no more, but power is gone. Top speed straight road is 95km/h. Still got the horrible gear 5, 2 second throttle lag. Then if i reduce throttle, bike will slow, then fast again. As long in gear 5, if i reduce throttle(not close), bike will go slow, then jerk. Go slower, then jerk.

 

How to say ah... Like when you reduce throttle, you can feel the bike going slower, but in my case, when i reduce throttle, it feels like throttle slightly turn off a bit, then increase throttle suddenly, but it will only be as much as it is opened.

 

Let throttle be a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 is closed and 5 is max.

 

If i open full throttle, it will remain closed for 2 seconds, then suddenly i get max burst of throttle.

 

If i was from full throttle (5), then i reduce throttle lower to (3), i will feel the throttle reduce to (1), then a few secs later, it will jerk and stabilise at (3).

 

If i was from throttle (3), then i reduce throttle to (1), i will feel throttle reduce to (0.5) then a few secs later, it will jerk and stabilise at (3).

 

I find it hard to explain because i ride this bike everyday so i am not used to this kinda thing. For every other gear, its okay, except gear 5.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted

i suppose gear 5..you will riding faster...

i can only guess that the bike parts....maybe 1 ot 2 cannot keep up with the demand on gear 5..

 

sticky carb jets..

fried components..like fried wires to cdi and rectifier..

coud be even dying components...it is complex when there is so many item can go wrong..

or just a case of bad petrol..water/settlements etc.....your problem seems very complexed.

 

b ut as you have just changed the valves and piston...the problem most likely that area..that remimnds me..check the compression..if this compression is bad...will leadd to bad performance too.

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted

I just changed the rectifier early this year. I didn't have much problems except for the opening throttle when i need to start the engine when hot. That happened when i changed the carb.

 

Other than that, nothing wrong with the bike before i send it for overhaul.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

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