Honda NSR150SP Riders

[ljunjie]

Hi bros. I've been riding SP for about 3 months now. Got some questions. My bike is consuming more fuel ever since I did a top overhaul and fixed my valve cable. What could be causing that high FC? My mileage on my speedometer is also stuck at 19999km. Btw, any workshops good at servicing SP? PM me if not convenient to say here. Thanks in advance.

[sporeknight]

Hi bros. I've been riding SP for about 3 months now. Got some questions. My bike is consuming more fuel ever since I did a top overhaul and fixed my valve cable. What could be causing that high FC? My mileage on my speedometer is also stuck at 19999km. Btw, any workshops good at servicing SP? PM me if not convenient to say here. Thanks in advance.

Bro, u mention yr mileage stuck at 19999km. Btw, yr speedometer wking ok? They r inter-related.

 

Regarding yr high FC, hw u knw is high since yr odometer stuck at 19999? How do u cal yr FC? Wats yr FC?

[sporeknight]

Hi bros. I've been riding SP for about 3 months now. Got some questions. My bike is consuming more fuel ever since I did a top overhaul and fixed my valve cable. What could be causing that high FC? My mileage on my speedometer is also stuck at 19999km. Btw, any workshops good at servicing SP? PM me if not convenient to say here. Thanks in advance.

Bro, u mention yr mileage stuck at 19999km. Btw, yr speedometer wking ok? They r inter-related.

 

Regarding yr high FC, hw u knw is high since yr odometer stuck at 19999? How do u cal yr FC? Wats yr FC?

[Heathx]

thank bro for the tip, about the tyre for 120/70 the price seem expensive abit then 110/70......

as for the suspension looking around....

 

My mindset is a bit different in regards to cost. Some things, really not worth it to save money. Tyres are your only contact with the road, so for me, i won't save on tyres. 120/70 will definitely be more ex than 110/70. 120/70 is mostly big bike front tyre afterall. Suspension, if you're on a budget, yet need a decent one, you can always get YSS. But get the original YSS, there are chiong versions out there. I would say suspension is more important than tyres at this point as it is the cause of the issue. Better to fix the suspension first. If you feel that 100/70 tyres too unstable, then only consider changing the tyres.

 

Ultimately, it's your money, spend it the way you want. If you're looking to keep the SP for at least 2 years, better to spend on a good tyre, and a good suspension, so less issues for the 2yrs. If you plan to upgrade to 2A the moment you get licence, then maybe just tahan for the one year lor, if money is that tight. 2A bikes are not cheap now also.

 

Hi bros. I've been riding SP for about 3 months now. Got some questions. My bike is consuming more fuel ever since I did a top overhaul and fixed my valve cable. What could be causing that high FC? My mileage on my speedometer is also stuck at 19999km. Btw, any workshops good at servicing SP? PM me if not convenient to say here. Thanks in advance.

 

Mileage stuck could be due to a few reasons, most common reason is cable snap. It's normal for bike to consume more petrol after overhaul. It can also be because your fuel to air ratio in your carb is too rich. If after run in, the FC doesn't improve, just bring the bike to your mechanic and ask him to adjust your carburetor for fuel efficiency. This will result in your bike being slightly less powerful, but add more klicks per liter of petrol. Adjusting air-fuel ratio, you may need to adjust 2T intake accordingly also.

Edited May 29, 2015 by Heathx

[ljunjie]

Bro, u mention yr mileage stuck at 19999km. Btw, yr speedometer wking ok? They r inter-related.

 

Regarding yr high FC, hw u knw is high since yr odometer stuck at 19999? How do u cal yr FC? Wats yr FC?

 

Yes, my speedometer is working fine. The tripmeter on the bottom is still working fine. Last time before reserve can go around 200km. Now I need to pump about 7 litres plus for 130km travelled.

 

Mileage stuck could be due to a few reasons, most common reason is cable snap. It's normal for bike to consume more petrol after overhaul. It can also be because your fuel to air ratio in your carb is too rich. If after run in, the FC doesn't improve, just bring the bike to your mechanic and ask him to adjust your carburetor for fuel efficiency. This will result in your bike being slightly less powerful, but add more klicks per liter of petrol. Adjusting air-fuel ratio, you may need to adjust 2T intake accordingly also.

 

Mechanic said the carburetor setting was same as before I overhauled. As for the mileage problem, I think it was working fine till it hit 19999km. Can recommend me mechanic?

[sporeknight]

Yes, my speedometer is working fine. The tripmeter on the bottom is still working fine. Last time before reserve can go around 200km. Now I need to pump about 7 litres plus for 130km travelled.

 

 

 

Mechanic said the carburetor setting was same as before I overhauled. As for the mileage problem, I think it was working fine till it hit 19999km. Can recommend me mechanic?

 

Oic. My speedometer cable break at least 4x in tis 14years, cause the tripmeter don turn, which also cause odometer don turn. But yr case is all is ok except odometer (stuck at 19999). I hope is a small issue which don ND to chg yr whole speedometer/tachometer/fuel gauge unit.

 

My FC is abt 200km for abt 8litres. I knw my fuel cap has abit of minor leak. But I nt bothered abt it s old bike le. Which area u stay? My mech shop at west

[ljunjie]

Oic. My speedometer cable break at least 4x in tis 14years, cause the tripmeter don turn, which also cause odometer don turn. But yr case is all is ok except odometer (stuck at 19999). I hope is a small issue which don ND to chg yr whole speedometer/tachometer/fuel gauge unit.

 

My FC is abt 200km for abt 8litres. I knw my fuel cap has abit of minor leak. But I nt bothered abt it s old bike le. Which area u stay? My mech shop at west

 

It'll be costly if I need to replace the whole speedometer unit.. Still wondering the cause of the change in FC.

Edited June 16, 2015 by ljunjie

[FireGunz]

My mindset is a bit different in regards to cost. Some things, really not worth it to save money. Tyres are your only contact with the road, so for me, i won't save on tyres. 120/70 will definitely be more ex than 110/70. 120/70 is mostly big bike front tyre afterall. Suspension, if you're on a budget, yet need a decent one, you can always get YSS. But get the original YSS, there are chiong versions out there. I would say suspension is more important than tyres at this point as it is the cause of the issue. Better to fix the suspension first. If you feel that 100/70 tyres too unstable, then only consider changing the tyres.

 

Ultimately, it's your money, spend it the way you want. If you're looking to keep the SP for at least 2 years, better to spend on a good tyre, and a good suspension, so less issues for the 2yrs. If you plan to upgrade to 2A the moment you get licence, then maybe just tahan for the one year lor, if money is that tight. 2A bikes are not cheap now also.

 

Hmmm.... thank bro. Will consider about your advice but still need to troubleshoot the problem whether it me with or without laden (weight problem) or suspension problem as for the rear tyre (120/70-17) will take in account.

 

Before as above will need to try out analysis the below:

I had try pump the tyre pressure @ (F) 210kpa & ® 230kpa.... as Rider (Myself) alone it seem that not problem (no sound) about hump. But if pillion on over the small hump it still can feel the rear bottom bua sound (does it possible the side stand cause it?)....

 

 

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[AhXian90]

Hi guys my suspension also rosak liao, ned to change, is YSS lasting or is there a better brand? wanting to change to original but no longer in production.

I guess tyres cant really save on that larh IMOH, Im having the bua sound too now cos of my suspension bah i think.

 

Can some1 advise on this too, if you guys experienced this, rattle(maybe rubbing) sound when doing engine braking even clutching in too,this is clutch housing loose?

[benny 1o]

Hi guys! Just to check with u guys.

 

Anyone have problems with inspection lately? I've been riding my SP for 7 yrs now. Every year inspection swee swee. This year I go everything cannot. Exhaust cut and weld, footrest, mudguard cut. Are u guys facing the same issue?

 

Pls help if u guys have any advice. Thanks!

[benny 1o]

Hi guys! Just to check with u guys.

 

Anyone have problems with inspection lately? I've been riding my SP for 7 yrs now. Every year inspection swee swee. This year I go everything cannot. Exhaust cut and weld, footrest, mudguard cut. Are u guys facing the same issue?

 

Pls help if u guys have any advice. Thanks!

[Heathx]

Hmmm.... thank bro. Will consider about your advice but still need to troubleshoot the problem whether it me with or without laden (weight problem) or suspension problem as for the rear tyre (120/70-17) will take in account.

 

Before as above will need to try out analysis the below:

I had try pump the tyre pressure @ (F) 210kpa & ® 230kpa.... as Rider (Myself) alone it seem that not problem (no sound) about hump. But if pillion on over the small hump it still can feel the rear bottom bua sound (does it possible the side stand cause it?)....

 

 

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Most likely is your exhaust belly scraping the floor to make that sound. It happens to me when i park at Bugis Junction, the humps there freaking high.. One method i learnt is to cut the hump... meaning you don't cross the hump perpendicular to it, but at an angle, so both your tyres are on the hump, kinda like |\| with the | | being the hump and the \ your direction of travel. It works if done correctly, but not all places have enough space. Other method i use is standing up when crossing the hump, so my body weight is on the footrest instead, and not pushing the rear shock down, although this method, if got pillion then no point.

 

Hi guys my suspension also rosak liao, ned to change, is YSS lasting or is there a better brand? wanting to change to original but no longer in production.

I guess tyres cant really save on that larh IMOH, Im having the bua sound too now cos of my suspension bah i think.

 

Can some1 advise on this too, if you guys experienced this, rattle(maybe rubbing) sound when doing engine braking even clutching in too,this is clutch housing loose?

 

For SP, YSS is kinda like the go to brand for suspension. There are others like racing boy and combiz also. YSS review, some people say good, 2 yrs also no problem, some people say 6 mths leak oil leak gas. Racing boy some say too stiff, some say good... Combiz some say good, mine broken after 3 months of normal road riding. Combiz also got $400 version and $100+ version (which i bought from LAB). If you want to get YSS, you can pm me, i know a guy can get his hands on 100% authentic YSS suspensions for SP, not sure price though, think $200+?

[FireGunz]

delete it..

Edited June 5, 2015 by FireGunz
double post

[FireGunz]

Most likely is your exhaust belly scraping the floor to make that sound. It happens to me when i park at Bugis Junction, the humps there freaking high.. One method i learnt is to cut the hump... meaning you don't cross the hump perpendicular to it, but at an angle, so both your tyres are on the hump, kinda like |\| with the | | being the hump and the \ your direction of travel. It works if done correctly, but not all places have enough space. Other method i use is standing up when crossing the hump, so my body weight is on the footrest instead, and not pushing the rear shock down, although this method, if got pillion then no point.

 

thank bro for the tip & guide.

[FireGunz]

Hi Senior, I'm just wondering how many mileage (Trip meter) that you need to be refill / top up the "2T" Engine Oil... as my is around 800km (Trip meter) need to refill 1 full bottle... does it normal as I saw some around 2000km or 3000km then do refill it / Top Up the 2T EO.

 

Also regarding the Fuel Consume as my is around 20km/L. Does that seem normal too... i see someone post (forum) even can do around 24km/L ... how did it do that?

 

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[benny 1o]

Hi guys. I've receuved some help from u guys but still can't pass inspection. Anyone has spare stock stomach and footrest to borrow? Or exchange for me to go inspection? I can top up a bit of transport fee. Just wanna settle it. Thanks.

[trick]

some ****ing ******* dropped my bike. side mirro break, front brake lever chipped and rear brake foot lever broke. bike can't start too.

[jbdoggy]

Hi Senior, I'm just wondering how many mileage (Trip meter) that you need to be refill / top up the "2T" Engine Oil... as my is around 800km (Trip meter) need to refill 1 full bottle... does it normal as I saw some around 2000km or 3000km then do refill it / Top Up the 2T EO.

 

Also regarding the Fuel Consume as my is around 20km/L. Does that seem normal too... i see someone post (forum) even can do around 24km/L ... how did it do that?

 

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My 2t consumption abt 2.5 tanks per litre based on my petrol top up- roughly a 1:20 mixture. According to what ive been reading, it seems that is the ideal mixture tho 1 mech said it should be 1 litre for every 5 tanks - roughly 1:50 mixture. But ive found a lot of tar granules on my mud guard & behind my number plate as well as some tar stains on the front of my number plate. This seems to suggest perhaps 1:20 might be too rich for normal day to day riding or its time to decarbonise exhaust. idk.

 

My fuel consumption at best also about 20km/l. That is if i use shell 98. Ive heard of people hvg 190km or more before reserve tho i dunno how they do it. But the thing is i noticed from my own experience, if you have fairly free long rides, you will have good fuel consumption. I went for longer riding on expressway with friends for 2 days & had 100km at half tank. But those days when i only commuted daily to & fro for work abt 6km per day travel only, with 7 traffic lights each way, parked in the open sun, 25km & abt slightly more then quarter tank gone. Maybe i should tarik my 1st & 2nd gear less. I normally tarik to abt 6k revs in those 2 gears & maintain 5k revs after that.

[FireGunz]

My 2t consumption abt 2.5 tanks per litre based on my petrol top up- roughly a 1:20 mixture. According to what ive been reading, it seems that is the ideal mixture tho 1 mech said it should be 1 litre for every 5 tanks - roughly 1:50 mixture. But ive found a lot of tar granules on my mud guard & behind my number plate as well as some tar stains on the front of my number plate. This seems to suggest perhaps 1:20 might be too rich for normal day to day riding or its time to decarbonise exhaust. idk.

 

My fuel consumption at best also about 20km/l. That is if i use shell 98. Ive heard of people hvg 190km or more before reserve tho i dunno how they do it. But the thing is i noticed from my own experience, if you have fairly free long rides, you will have good fuel consumption. I went for longer riding on expressway with friends for 2 days & had 100km at half tank. But those days when i only commuted daily to & fro for work abt 6km per day travel only, with 7 traffic lights each way, parked in the open sun, 25km & abt slightly more then quarter tank gone. Maybe i should tarik my 1st & 2nd gear less. I normally tarik to abt 6k revs in those 2 gears & maintain 5k revs after that.

 

Thank bro for sharing your experience also the tips & info.

 

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[ljunjie]

-Delete post

[sporeknight]

some ****ing ******* dropped my bike. side mirro break, front brake lever chipped and rear brake foot lever broke. bike can't start too.

 

Seems dropped on yr right side. Stationary drop won't cause too much prob on yr bike wiring or engine. Mayb yr batt wiring at terminal connection came loose. Chk.

 

S for the parts tat broke, jus replace la. The mirror mayb a bit x I think if SP one.

[sporeknight]

My 2t consumption abt 2.5 tanks per litre based on my petrol top up- roughly a 1:20 mixture. According to what ive been reading, it seems that is the ideal mixture tho 1 mech said it should be 1 litre for every 5 tanks - roughly 1:50 mixture. But ive found a lot of tar granules on my mud guard & behind my number plate as well as some tar stains on the front of my number plate. This seems to suggest perhaps 1:20 might be too rich for normal day to day riding or its time to decarbonise exhaust. idk.

Erm bro, I can understand if yr rear no plate gt tar stains/granules. But wat has it gt to do wif front plate? Exhaust at rear lei.

 

I hav chg my throttle cables a few mths ago. The white smoke seems to b abit more than usual. I believe the mech did NT adj the 2T intake s the cable also link to the 2T. But I will still monitor. Recently chg to Mobil gold 2T 24.80$ from kiosk. C if it will help on the smoke. Will monitor the consumption of 2T vs petrol.

[jbdoggy]

Erm bro, I can understand if yr rear no plate gt tar stains/granules. But wat has it gt to do wif front plate? Exhaust at rear lei.

 

I hav chg my throttle cables a few mths ago. The white smoke seems to b abit more than usual. I believe the mech did NT adj the 2T intake s the cable also link to the 2T. But I will still monitor. Recently chg to Mobil gold 2T 24.80$ from kiosk. C if it will help on the smoke. Will monitor the consumption of 2T vs petrol.

 

Sorry bro, I meant the front face of my rear number plate. So granules on the back fce & stains on the front face. Maybe I will go & ask mech to reduce the dosage to maybe 1:30 or 1:35 kinda thing. I do tend to agree with the article saying 1:50 is on the lean side, hence not recommended. Most esp for highway riding I feel.

 

Im currently using castrol power 1 racing 2t. Quite a good oil actually. Costs abt $23-$25 depending where you go. But I found a shop at Bendemeer road selling for $18. So i immediately bought 3 packs to stock up.

[wait4me]

maybe u follow too many 2t bikes thats why front got stain

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does it normal for SP. Sometimes when at gear 1 waiting at traffic light the bike will stall it by itself (when the rpm below 1k)

 

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