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Posted

Hi all,

 

I just got myself a Honda nsr150sp. I got some questions.

 

1)What is the gear to speed ratio?

2)While riding at 80-85km/h, my bike suddenly jerk foward. I saw my RPM at almost 7k. What the problem? Is it my gear and speed were inappropriate?

 

Thanks for the expertise.

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Posted
Hi all,

 

I just got myself a Honda nsr150sp. I got some questions.

 

1)What is the gear to speed ratio?

2)While riding at 80-85km/h, my bike suddenly jerk foward. I saw my RPM at almost 7k. What the problem? Is it my gear and speed were inappropriate?

 

Thanks for the expertise.

 

Gear to speed ratio is not accurate way to measure. A better way to gauge will be to change gears around 7k rpm. SP power kicks in around 5.5k rpm, although valve opens around 6.8k, and then again at 9k. If you change gears at 7k rpm, when you release clutch, rpm will drop to just above 5.5k usually, so still within the power band. Once in a while though, it'll be good to change gears only after you hit 8k rpm, so your rc valve gets a bit of exercise.

 

As for the jerk forward, not sure if it's an abrupt jerk, or it's the feeling that suddenly your bike is like speeding up more than usual. If it's the second, don't worry, it's natural due to rc valve opening at 6.8k and your engine suddenly more power.

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted (edited)
Gear to speed ratio is not accurate way to measure. A better way to gauge will be to change gears around 7k rpm. SP power kicks in around 5.5k rpm, although valve opens around 6.8k, and then again at 9k. If you change gears at 7k rpm, when you release clutch, rpm will drop to just above 5.5k usually, so still within the power band. Once in a while though, it'll be good to change gears only after you hit 8k rpm, so your rc valve gets a bit of exercise.

 

As for the jerk forward, not sure if it's an abrupt jerk, or it's the feeling that suddenly your bike is like speeding up more than usual. If it's the second, don't worry, it's natural due to rc valve opening at 6.8k and your engine suddenly more power.

 

Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

Edited by deespace
Posted
Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

I too chg gear arnd 5-6.5k rpm. But I chg gear when I hear engine sound "get louder" which is silmilar to rpm. S long s u don throw clutch u shld NT feel "jerk forward" feeling. Mayb u still nt use to new bike la, I guess. Drive few wks more c HW. If NT can ask yr fren test yr bike.

Posted
Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

 

No need for apologies, we're all here to learn. =)

 

5.5k rpm is where your bike's power will start to come in. Thus, you should ride above 5.5k as much as possible.

 

Your rc valves will open at around 7k rpm, and open further at 9k rpm. So at these 2 points, you will feel a surge of power.

 

Generally, you should change gears around 6.5-8k rpm range. Usually i will change at 7.5k rpm.

 

For normal riding, just maintain at around 6.4k rpm. Usually 80-90kph is gear 5, 6.4k rpm. 60kmph is maybe gear 4, 6k rpm. So you match your gear to your speed and rpm.

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted (edited)

Hi Seniors, just wonder how to you do that until 9k rpm in which gear position? I did try before in gear 4 revs until 8k rpm will be around 120km/hr & feeling like going to tear down the engine (hear engine screaming). Does that normal? Also why I haven't go until 9k rpm so far.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited by FireGunz
Posted
Hi Seniors, just wonder how to you do that until 9k rpm in which gear position? I did try before in gear 4 revs until 8k rpm will be around 120km/hr & feeling like going to tear down the engine (hear engine screaming). Does that normal? Also why I haven't go until 9k rpm so far.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

You can go 9k rpm in any gear, gears 1-3 is easy. The question is, you dare go 9k rpm in gear 4-6 on Singapore roads or not? =D

 

If you want to go to 9k rpm, you have to consider 2 things. 1) your engine condition, 2) your comfort level. If your engine has not been well-maintained and you don't know it well, don't do it. 7k rpm is enough to exercise the rc valve and also to 'blow' out the 2T. Everyone also has a psychological barrier when it comes to pushing the bike limits. If you have been riding at 6k rpm normally, you will naturally fear for going up to 9k rpm even for a short while because it's an unknown area.

 

Your engine screaming and my engine screaming definition and sound may be different, so i can't tell if it's ok or not. My previous SP go 9k rpm also screaming, but it's screaming in glee... Some other people's bikes 7k rpm screaming in pain. So really very hard to say unless i'm there to see and hear for myself. hahaha...

 

Btw, nobody rides at 9k rpm for extended periods unless at the track. The wear and tear is too much for the engine to take if extended period. Usually i go up to 7.5k or 8k rpm before changing gears for gears 1-4, then from 4-5 and 5-6 i'll change at 7.2k rpm. Normal riding i'll maintain between 6.3k - 7k rpm. This range is generally most petrol-saving. Once rc valve open at 7k rpm, your petrol consumption will increase. Only once in a blue moon will i open up to 9k rpm and beyond (highway in bolehland). I dare to push the bike because i take very good care of it and i know the engine condition well, i use top-end 2T, and i have confidence there will be no problem even if i push.

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted
You can go 9k rpm in any gear, gears 1-3 is easy. The question is, you dare go 9k rpm in gear 4-6 on Singapore roads or not? =D

 

If you want to go to 9k rpm, you have to consider 2 things. 1) your engine condition, 2) your comfort level. If your engine has not been well-maintained and you don't know it well, don't do it. 7k rpm is enough to exercise the rc valve and also to 'blow' out the 2T. Everyone also has a psychological barrier when it comes to pushing the bike limits. If you have been riding at 6k rpm normally, you will naturally fear for going up to 9k rpm even for a short while because it's an unknown area.

 

Your engine screaming and my engine screaming definition and sound may be different, so i can't tell if it's ok or not. My previous SP go 9k rpm also screaming, but it's screaming in glee... Some other people's bikes 7k rpm screaming in pain. So really very hard to say unless i'm there to see and hear for myself. hahaha...

 

Btw, nobody rides at 9k rpm for extended periods unless at the track. The wear and tear is too much for the engine to take if extended period. Usually i go up to 7.5k or 8k rpm before changing gears for gears 1-4, then from 4-5 and 5-6 i'll change at 7.2k rpm. Normal riding i'll maintain between 6.3k - 7k rpm. This range is generally most petrol-saving. Once rc valve open at 7k rpm, your petrol consumption will increase. Only once in a blue moon will i open up to 9k rpm and beyond (highway in bolehland). I dare to push the bike because i take very good care of it and i know the engine condition well, i use top-end 2T, and i have confidence there will be no problem even if i push.

Hmmm... agree. :rolleyes:

Thank Heathx, will take your advice & the guide about shifting gear & the RPM. :D

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Posted

Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection? :rolleyes:

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too? :)

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Posted
Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection? :rolleyes:

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too? :)

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Angel eyes no pass. LED white light i don't know, but i don't think it pass either...

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted
Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection? :rolleyes:

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too? :)

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

comfirm no pass, dun waste time doing it or changing it.

Posted

Ok. Seem the "Angel Eyed" is unable to pass then what about the normal headlight bulbs change to "LED" white colour & will the inspection pass too? :(

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Posted
Ok. Seem the "Angel Eyed" is unable to pass then what about the normal headlight bulbs change to "LED" white colour & will the inspection pass too? :(

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted
Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

 

actually more like 50 - 50 ,

but hor we are not bmw 5 series , which LTA approve angel eyes.

 

think of the hassle u need to go through if fail ?

go back work shop

put the lamp , put the faring , ride back to inspection , inspect already

go back to bike shop , take out everything again , put back

 

then 11 months later rinse and repeat

Posted
actually more like 50 - 50 ,

but hor we are not bmw 5 series , which LTA approve angel eyes.

 

think of the hassle u need to go through if fail ?

go back work shop

put the lamp , put the faring , ride back to inspection , inspect already

go back to bike shop , take out everything again , put back

 

then 11 months later rinse and repeat

 

I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

Posted
I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

 

bikes that not original LED wil not pass but still depend on luck . if lucky pass and go home ,

Posted

Hi Guys,

 

i selling used SP parts / BROQUET Fuel Charger if u need any.

 

My sales thread

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vtec88-Used-Bike-Parts-Broquet-Fuel-Charger/415899711838681

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/235030-lt-CMO-gt-BROQUET-Fuel-Charger-(UK)-gt-Save-Fuel-Increase-Power!-Different-Preown-Parts?highlight

 

 

whatapps 82007665 Derek the SP parts that u need . Thanks!

Posted (edited)
Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

 

I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

 

 

bikes that not original LED wil not pass but still depend on luck . if lucky pass and go home ,

Wah... :eek:

Then better stick to original. :o

To prevent those unnecessary troubles (time & money)... :(

Thank to all senior that sharing those experience & info. :D

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited by FireGunz
Posted

My SP i kept to stock as much as possible. Only things i did that is visible is the brake pump, steel-braided brake hose, and the racing footrest. Lights all these i kept to stock. You could use a bulb with higher wattage, but it may melt your connectors. Singapore road bright enough actually, don't really matter you use LED, HID or stock lights.

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted
.....But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

$45 I refer to the whole front lighting sockets unit. Nt LED bulb. Bulb shld b quite cheap la.

Posted
Hi Guys,

 

i selling used SP parts / BROQUET Fuel Charger if u need any.

 

My sales thread

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vtec88-Used-Bike-Parts-Broquet-Fuel-Charger/415899711838681

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/235030-lt-CMO-gt-BROQUET-Fuel-Charger-(UK)-gt-Save-Fuel-Increase-Power!-Different-Preown-Parts?highlight

 

 

whatapps 82007665 Derek the SP parts that u need . Thanks!

Bro, yr SP parts all old? No new ones? So if sell old, does it mean it will v cheap? U deliver or we colec? Do u fix for us?

Posted (edited)

Hi Seniors, what is the size of the bulbs?

1. Headlight is "H6" 12v - 30/30w

 

2. Brake/Taillight is "??" 12v - 5/18w

 

3. Signal light for front / rear is "??" 12v - 10/10w

 

Also where do I get this bulbs for stock? Same usual place/shop that selling the original part & what is the price for each bulbs cost?

 

By the way, does any of you change the Engine Oil (Transmission oil) done by yourself alone before?

 

If yes, what is the tools you need & how do you disposal the "Old" Engine Oil after drain out from the bike.

 

Thank

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited by FireGunz
Posted
Hi Seniors, what is the size of the bulbs?

1. Headlight is "H6" 12v - 30/30w

 

2. Brake/Taillight is "??" 12v - 5/18w

 

3. Signal light for front / rear is "??" 12v - 10/10w

 

Also where do I get this bulbs for stock? Same usual place/shop that selling the original part & what is the price for each bulbs cost?

 

By the way, does any of you change the Engine Oil (Transmission oil) done by yourself alone before?

 

If yes, what is the tools you need & how do you disposal the "Old" Engine Oil after drain out from the bike.

 

Thank

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Bulbs i dunno. i just go find my mech and he will replace for me. Hahaha...

 

As for oil change, i know how to do it, but because you have to dispose the old oil properly, i usually just bring to my mech and do the change there. If you decide to do it yourself, you have to collect the old oil. If you dump it in drain or dustbin or whatever, it's an offence and if caught, very heavy fine. You can collect the old oil, go to some motordiam near your place. usually they will have a big metal barrel outside where they dispose their old oils. If you lucky, they will let u dispose off there lor.

RIDE.

 

2012 - 2015: Honda NSR150SP

2015 - current : Honda CBR600RR

Posted

i cchange HID on my sp , the only thng is every year i will also change the "stanley" casing as it wil melt

 

i kep to stock footrest , for comfort riding long distance

Posted
Hi Seniors, what is the size of the bulbs?

1. Headlight is "H6" 12v - 30/30w

 

2. Brake/Taillight is "??" 12v - 5/18w

 

3. Signal light for front / rear is "??" 12v - 10/10w

 

Also where do I get this bulbs for stock? Same usual place/shop that selling the original part & what is the price for each bulbs cost?

 

By the way, does any of you change the Engine Oil (Transmission oil) done by yourself alone before?

 

If yes, what is the tools you need & how do you disposal the "Old" Engine Oil after drain out from the bike.

 

Thank

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Hi bro. U can chg yr bulbs at any motor shops. SP is popular, all mech knw. But I norm DIY esp the headlights s u all knw, it is quite tedious when taking out n putting in. So NT to trouble mech for such simple tasks I get the bulb n do it myself. I get my headlight standley for $5, signal abt 3$. Brake light forgot. Arnd tat price. There is once a famous shop assistant selling me headlight standley for 10$. I Nev freq tat shop anymore.

 

Chg EO is fairly ez. I alwys diy. U nd a 12mm hexagonal T-shape tool to take out the bolt on yr left side engine to release the oil. Tis tool is exactly T-shape, for 12mm hexagonal screws. Can buy at any hardware store. Tat time i buy $3.20. So nw abt $4. Collec old oil below wif plastic bag. U ND to open the cap for topping up EO so an adj spanner is ok. The oil to top up is abt 750ml. The tricky part is dispose oil. Norm I use 2 plastic bags to contain oil n throw at rubbish bin. Make sure u tie the plastic bag tight so the cleaner wont b dirtied by yr oil. Be clean to our environment. Of course if u can dispose at motor shop best. But since I did NT give them business, I paisei to dispose there. Tio Bo?

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