Honda NSR150SP Riders

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, had you counter this occur before? When riding on the some of the road passing through the bottom "white arrow" or "Split Dotted Line". it may feel the skip abit from the bike rear tire.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Heathx]

Thank bro, now even after 7pm I don't had worry about "where to find the shop" as most of the shop after 6pm. By the way, it the operation hours is Daily or Monday to ???.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Wah wah, i pm cos dowan share here later tio say is advertising. then you go and post here... :angel:

 

Anyways, he open from mon to sat usually. =P

[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, had you counter this occur before? When riding on the some of the road passing through the bottom "white arrow" or "Split Dotted Line". it may feel the skip abit from the bike rear tire.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Never ride on any markings on the road, it's as slippery as ice. Even highest rated tyres also will slip when travelling over the markings. I'm using Michelin Pilot Road 3 which are highly rated, still face same issue. But last time when i use BT39SS front and BT090 rear for my SP, i don't remember slipping as much, in fact didnt really notice any slip even.

[jbdoggy]

When I got my bike in late april, it had michelin pilot street tyres - 90/80x17 front & 100/80x17 rear. (i think the rear is undersized)

 

The rear tyre was more worn out then the front which still looks new when i 1st got it. Ive so far covered abt 1000+ km since buying. The bike is due for inspection soon & i feel its time to change it tho the threads still looks passable (according to Uncle Chong), as there seems to be a bit of loss of traction at the rear now - a small bit of slide when medium braking or cornering while on dry road.

 

Now im looking for a 120/80x17 rear tyre & found only Bridestone bt39, Dunlop TT900 or Dunlop Aeromax has that size. Is it possible to change only the rear, or do i have to change the front to the same brand? Kinda sayang to gv up the front michelin as it still looks new.

 

Michelin pilot street next size is 130/70x17. Not sure if with that size i need to upgrade the front to 100x80x17 or not. But seems 130/70x17 is the size carried by many brands now for street grade tyres for smaller bikes.

[Heathx]

When I got my bike in late april, it had michelin pilot street tyres - 90/80x17 front & 100/80x17 rear. (i think the rear is undersized)

 

The rear tyre was more worn out then the front which still looks new when i 1st got it. Ive so far covered abt 1000+ km since buying. The bike is due for inspection soon & i feel its time to change it tho the threads still looks passable (according to Uncle Chong), as there seems to be a bit of loss of traction at the rear now - a small bit of slide when medium braking or cornering while on dry road.

 

Now im looking for a 120/80x17 rear tyre & found only Bridestone bt39, Dunlop TT900 or Dunlop Aeromax has that size. Is it possible to change only the rear, or do i have to change the front to the same brand? Kinda sayang to gv up the front michelin as it still looks new.

 

Michelin pilot street next size is 130/70x17. Not sure if with that size i need to upgrade the front to 100x80x17 or not. But seems 130/70x17 is the size carried by many brands now for street grade tyres for smaller bikes.

 

Don't need to go for 120/80. you can get 120/70 which will open up a lot more choices. 120/70 usually is big bike front tyre. Which means the profile of the tyre is sharper. gives you slightly better mileage initially cos in upright position, the contact patch is not as large as the 120/80, which has a flatter profile. This incidentally means that your bike can also go faster easily due to lesser friction. And the side walls of a big bike front will let you enjoy cornering more. Grip is subjective, based only many factors including compound choice and age of tyres. As tyres get older, the compound becomes harder and more prone to skidding under braking. Some cheap tyres have compounds that are not as grippy as other.

 

If in doubt, you can take my advice of keeping the front, and just getting the Bridgestone BT090 120/70 tyre. And yes, it is possible to change only the rear. Just that some shops will purposely charge you more for just changing a single tyre.

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, how long / often do you wash the bike? Wash by yourself (wondering what kind of soap using at? Car soap "liquid form" or Car Shampoo "wax protection paint") or go to Car / Bike wash shop?

If wash by yourself, what about the sticker on bike body will it wash off if using car soap it?

If go to Car wash shop (if lazy to hand on or no sure what to use to wash) what is the price that normally charge?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, how long / often do you wash the bike? Wash by yourself (wondering what kind of soap using at? Car soap "liquid form" or Car Shampoo "wax protection paint") or go to Car / Bike wash shop?

If wash by yourself, what about the sticker on bike body will it wash off if using car soap it?

If go to Car wash shop (if lazy to hand on or no sure what to use to wash) what is the price that normally charge?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Last time when i ride SP, i wash, wax every 2 weeks myself. Then i got lazy and bought a bike cover, so from then only wash/wax once every month. Cos bike cover means bike suffer less from rain and dust, so no need wash as frequent.

 

If wash yourself, depends on how much you willing to spend on the shampoo and wax. Initially i budget, use soft99 metacleaner and turtlewax shampoo. But not very good. Then was advised by Rudy to use Autoglym products due to value for money, Meguiars is good, but price quite ex. So now i use Autoglym bodywork shampoo to wash, then Autoglym super resin polish to wax/polish, then last step is use Autoglym extra gloss protection sealant to protect the shine. For the wheels and chain, i use Black Magic wheel cleaner. For the chrome parts like forks and handlebar, i use Meguiar metal polish, the green and purple plastic kong like hair gel packaging like that one...

 

Every 6months or so, i will treat my bike to a "spa" to maintain the paintwork. Either glass coating package at Rudyra Aesthetics (3-4hr session), or god-mode package at Equator Brotherhood (1-2hr session). The cost is agar $100.

 

If you bring to petrol kiosk, they charge maybe $6-8 to wash only. But not all petrol kiosk wash bikes, and i dun really like also. Cos wash there might as well you just buy car shampoo and anyhow wash yourself.

 

As for the sticker, depends on what kind of sticker you mean. Some bike design is sticker, then they apply a layer of lacquer over, so wash won't affect it. If you mean is those stickers you buy from shop then anyhow paste on bike (1sticker = 5bhp) kind, then must see the quality of the sticker. Good one won't come off so easily.

[wait4me]

i also use autoglym

 

lately share Meguiars with friends ,

 

wooo rudy still washing bikes, miss the times he wash 3 of my bikes at the same time and i go home sleep ,

[FireGunz]

Last time when i ride SP, i wash, wax every 2 weeks myself. Then i got lazy and bought a bike cover, so from then only wash/wax once every month. Cos bike cover means bike suffer less from rain and dust, so no need wash as frequent.

 

If wash yourself, depends on how much you willing to spend on the shampoo and wax. Initially i budget, use soft99 metacleaner and turtlewax shampoo. But not very good. Then was advised by Rudy to use Autoglym products due to value for money, Meguiars is good, but price quite ex. So now i use Autoglym bodywork shampoo to wash, then Autoglym super resin polish to wax/polish, then last step is use Autoglym extra gloss protection sealant to protect the shine. For the wheels and chain, i use Black Magic wheel cleaner. For the chrome parts like forks and handlebar, i use Meguiar metal polish, the green and purple plastic kong like hair gel packaging like that one...

 

Every 6months or so, i will treat my bike to a "spa" to maintain the paintwork. Either glass coating package at Rudyra Aesthetics (3-4hr session), or god-mode package at Equator Brotherhood (1-2hr session). The cost is agar $100.

 

If you bring to petrol kiosk, they charge maybe $6-8 to wash only. But not all petrol kiosk wash bikes, and i dun really like also. Cos wash there might as well you just buy car shampoo and anyhow wash yourself.

 

As for the sticker, depends on what kind of sticker you mean. Some bike design is sticker, then they apply a layer of lacquer over, so wash won't affect it. If you mean is those stickers you buy from shop then anyhow paste on bike (1sticker = 5bhp) kind, then must see the quality of the sticker. Good one won't come off so easily.

Hi bro, may i know what is the price for stuff?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Don't need to go for 120/80. you can get 120/70 which will open up a lot more choices. 120/70 usually is big bike front tyre. Which means the profile of the tyre is sharper. gives you slightly better mileage initially cos in upright position, the contact patch is not as large as the 120/80, which has a flatter profile. This incidentally means that your bike can also go faster easily due to lesser friction. And the side walls of a big bike front will let you enjoy cornering more. Grip is subjective, based only many factors including compound choice and age of tyres. As tyres get older, the compound becomes harder and more prone to skidding under braking. Some cheap tyres have compounds that are not as grippy as other.

 

If in doubt, you can take my advice of keeping the front, and just getting the Bridgestone BT090 120/70 tyre. And yes, it is possible to change only the rear. Just that some shops will purposely charge you more for just changing a single tyre.

 

Thanks for sharing. Ya I think thats what I'll do.

[jbdoggy]

Ive had my bike nearly 3 mths liao. No problems with cold starting. Fire up by 1st or 2nd kick, & ready to ride after warmup a bit.

 

Suddenly im hvg problems with cold engine. Still no problem firing up but if you try to blip throttle, engine will bog & die. And then it will be a bit difficult to start again. Unless you choke. Even when engine has warmed up sometimes engine will still bog, when trying to move off from carpark. Idliing speed still ok. 1.4k.

 

Last nite I let the bike idle for awhile & it died on its own later. And then again difficult to start. Choke it & it started but still boggy when try to blip. Engine already warmed up liao. After choking for a abt a minute then bike finally ok to use.

 

Currently i off fuel tap at night & while at work, seems to hv some improvement.

 

Is it carb flooded or carb dirty?

[FireGunz]

I had my bike almost 2 mth. Being 1st mth seem the cold start (without using choke) is without problem but on 2 mth as for cold starting or cold engine I need to use "Choke" to fire up by 1st or 2nd kick. Does that mean normal for SP?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Heathx]

Hi bro, may i know what is the price for stuff?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

If buy all 3, it's about $60-$80-ish range, but can use very long especially if only wash once a month... I bought since 2yrs ago, until now still left 1/3...

 

Ive had my bike nearly 3 mths liao. No problems with cold starting. Fire up by 1st or 2nd kick, & ready to ride after warmup a bit.

 

Suddenly im hvg problems with cold engine. Still no problem firing up but if you try to blip throttle, engine will bog & die. And then it will be a bit difficult to start again. Unless you choke. Even when engine has warmed up sometimes engine will still bog, when trying to move off from carpark. Idliing speed still ok. 1.4k.

 

Last nite I let the bike idle for awhile & it died on its own later. And then again difficult to start. Choke it & it started but still boggy when try to blip. Engine already warmed up liao. After choking for a abt a minute then bike finally ok to use.

 

Currently i off fuel tap at night & while at work, seems to hv some improvement.

 

Is it carb flooded or carb dirty?

 

Usually is due to carb flood. That's reason why after dropped bike, it's very hard to start. Always put fuel tap to off position if u're parking bike for more than 1hr. If you want to be safe, can go wash the carb at your mech also just in case it's dirty.

 

Sometimes can be carb setting too rich, but shouldnt be the case cos you never do anything and it was ok before.

 

But sometimes old bike siao siao one... My SP last time kena before... always 1-2 kicks go liao and won't die. Then one period of time, for about 2 weeks, it suddenly need choke to start all that... I didnt do anything different to it, and after that 2 weeks, it back to one kick again. Think bike throw tantrum...

 

FireGunz, you got off your fuel tap when u park? Cold start cold engine use choke and kick 1-2 times to start still normal... kick 41342 times to start then jit bai siao liao... :lol:

[Heathx]

i also use autoglym

 

lately share Meguiars with friends ,

 

wooo rudy still washing bikes, miss the times he wash 3 of my bikes at the same time and i go home sleep ,

 

Yeah, Rudy still washing.. his business better and better sial... must book him in advance and pray for slot... Then nowadays he pattern many many also, so many packages to pick, but he always does a good job no matter what package you choose... Never regretted going to him before... But i think sometimes due to how meticulous he is, he spend more time than anticipated, then your appt will tio pushed back. So must be patient.

[wait4me]

Yeah, Rudy still washing.. his business better and better sial... must book him in advance and pray for slot... Then nowadays he pattern many many also, so many packages to pick, but he always does a good job no matter what package you choose... Never regretted going to him before... But i think sometimes due to how meticulous he is, he spend more time than anticipated, then your appt will tio pushed back. So must be patient.

 

yeah i undertsand the pattern, used to be 1 bike, then 11am , push to 1pm, 1pm push to 5pm . aiyoh can faint..

after that , my friends and me meet together under one block , do 5 bikes altogether. really one day gone

[FireGunz]

If buy all 3, it's about $60-$80-ish range, but can use very long especially if only wash once a month... I bought since 2yrs ago, until now still left 1/3...

 

 

 

Usually is due to carb flood. That's reason why after dropped bike, it's very hard to start. Always put fuel tap to off position if u're parking bike for more than 1hr. If you want to be safe, can go wash the carb at your mech also just in case it's dirty.

 

Sometimes can be carb setting too rich, but shouldnt be the case cos you never do anything and it was ok before.

 

But sometimes old bike siao siao one... My SP last time kena before... always 1-2 kicks go liao and won't die. Then one period of time, for about 2 weeks, it suddenly need choke to start all that... I didnt do anything different to it, and after that 2 weeks, it back to one kick again. Think bike throw tantrum...

 

FireGunz, you got off your fuel tap when u park? Cold start cold engine use choke and kick 1-2 times to start still normal... kick 41342 times to start then jit bai siao liao... :lol:

 

Hi Heathx, you mean the "Fuel Cock" on the left side (where around the "Choke" Knob)... No i didn't....

[Heathx]

Hi Heathx, you mean the "Fuel Cock" on the left side (where around the "Choke" Knob)... No i didn't....

 

Yeah yeah, the correct term is Fuel Cork, but some pple call it fuel tap, that knob thing, that turn turn thing... Hahaha...

 

Next time if parking the bike for more than an hour, off it will be best. Otherwise the fuel will drip into your carb and flood it. But this boh pak keh won't have issue, cos sometimes the Fuel Cork loose already, petrol will still leak... if that happens, then need tighten the fuel cork then ok liao...

[FireGunz]

Yeah yeah, the correct term is Fuel Cork, but some pple call it fuel tap, that knob thing, that turn turn thing... Hahaha...

 

Next time if parking the bike for more than an hour, off it will be best. Otherwise the fuel will drip into your carb and flood it. But this boh pak keh won't have issue, cos sometimes the Fuel Cork loose already, petrol will still leak... if that happens, then need tighten the fuel cork then ok liao...

 

Hi Heathx, Thankyou for the value tips.

 

No wonder during the cold engine/cold start the bike i had to choke it to fire up by kick 1 or 2 time as I keep wondering what had happened.

 

After turn "Off" the Fuel tap more then a hours then when turn "On" it might able to start fire up by kick 1 or 2 (without using choke).

 

But sometime still need to choke it (even already follow above the procedure turn "Off" & "On" the fuel tap) before can start the bike. Does that still normal?

 

By the way, how to tighten it the fuel tap (Fuel Cock) if feel that "Fuel Tap" is loose already? Hmmm... I thinking is it the "Fuel Tap" centre of the screw. Right?

 

Also what if even using choke & hard fire up by kicking few time then mean the carburetor is flood or too rich so need to go mech for washing?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited July 16, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Hi Heathx, I'm just curious that the Fuel Tap (Fuel Cock) got 3 setting position.

1. "On" as know for normal operations.

2. "Off" as know for long parking (more then 1 hours)

3. "Res" as for...?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Firegunz

 

Switch to reserve when your main tank almost empty. like when your fuel needle halfway in the red line.

 

Carb flooded no problem. Just let engine run with choke for a while & maybe blip throttle a bit later shld clear up the carb liao. flooded carb no need to clean. Only dirty carb need to clean.

[jbdoggy]

Had a real hard time starting today. Then engine die on its own at red lights. Send it to Uncle Chong in morning & just collected it in evening.

 

He said my problem is low compression => block & piston spoilt. Dunno what he did earlier, he said he play with my valves, knock the carb etc. Now like everything improved a lot.

 

Dunno whether to believe or not abt my piston & block cos if low compression it means there is gap betn piston ring & block hence fuel gases dont get compressed fully as some escapes & you lose power. But I never had any loss of power these last few days.

 

Oh well, whatever he did today, at least foc. I think I go elsewhere for 2nd opinion.

[newbie rider here]

Hi all , which company bike insurance do u guys recommend? ntuc or aivia? cause i checked the price for ntuc is relatively higher than aviva. For aviva is the coverage as good as ntuc vice versa . More suggestions will be better.

[FireGunz]

Firegunz

 

Switch to reserve when your main tank almost empty. like when your fuel needle halfway in the red line.

 

Carb flooded no problem. Just let engine run with choke for a while & maybe blip throttle a bit later shld clear up the carb liao. flooded carb no need to clean. Only dirty carb need to clean.

Thank jbdoggy, for the guide & tips.

 

By the way, just curious is that when turn it to "RES" (as you had say "main tank almost empty. like when your fuel needle halfway in the red line.") mean the fuel will flew slower then normal to carburetor. Right?

 

Also as you mentioned "Uncle Chong" is from where? If unable to post it here then pm me. Thank.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited July 16, 2015 by FireGunz

[jbdoggy]

Firegunz

 

Fuel rate to carb still remains the same even in res. But frankly turning to res when halfway in the red line a wee bit kiasulah. If more gung ho can wait till just before empty to turn. If youre experienced enough like some rider i read in another forum, the moment he sense his sp run out of fuel (frm my past experience - engine sputturs, loss of power or cant quite throttle, bike feels a bit jerky) he quickly switch to res while riding.

 

But I personally find that way of riding riskylah - I was very near the end of the red line at eunos mrt there. I thot shld still hve jus enuf to take pie bk to my place in circuit rd. But on pie suddenly heard 1 click & engine off. No warning signs, no sputtering or slight jerkiness. Just like that. Luckily that time past midnite & pie lane to paya lebar rd empty & I had speed. I quickly clutch in & signal left to kerb side. I then switch to res & wait for few minutes & then finally can start again & continue my journey home. Learnt my lesson liao. Switch to res a bit earlier much safer step methinks. Better safe then sorry right?

 

So many things not taught by instructors, but we learn or discover them thro experience. I also newbie jus like you. Riding 3 months only. Steep learning curve!!

 

Uncle Chong is from planet motors at Ubi rd 1. Many just call him Ah Chong. But i discovered yesterday its not Chong but Cheong. Saw it printed on the back of his helmet - Ah Cheong.

 

Still wondering how his methods solved my supposedly "low compression" problem. He said give my carb a few knocks & play around with my valves. Do like that & things bk to normal again?? Sounds like a scene from a few tv shows right? Drink machine cant dispense drink, give it a kick or bash the machine up & the coke can drops out! lol.

Edited July 17, 2015 by jbdoggy

[jbdoggy]

Hi all , which company bike insurance do u guys recommend? ntuc or aivia? cause i checked the price for ntuc is relatively higher than aviva. For aviva is the coverage as good as ntuc vice versa . More suggestions will be better.

 

I tried AXA but they require 1 yr riding experience - for sp case only. So no go they said.

 

I eventually use ntuc. But i have many yrs driving experience so based on that they gv me cheap. If no driving experience i would be abt $1k or more liao.

 

I just buy 3rd party fire & theft. & later i bought personal accident insurance from them.