Honda NSR150SP Riders

[Heathx]

Hey bro, last sat i was at chong aik & inquired abt those rubber legs, & they dont sell such things individually. You must buy the whole new seat itself. $55.

I will assume that the places you suggested wld also be the same as all also honda parts dealers right?

 

I also inquired abt screws for fairings as I lost 2 of them. They also dun sell such things.

 

Anyway, my seat still generally in good condition so unwilling to buy new 1. So from my workshop i cut 2 strips of foam rubber which we use as rubber gaskets to lay glass panels, stuck them together as 1 piece & pasted it under my seat! So far so good! haha

 

Hahaha! yeah, if can improvise and it works then good lah! Anyway for screws, i asked my friend to help me buy from JB when he went over... think 4 for $1 last time. now should be even cheaper... Anodized aluminium ones... I replaced all of my fairing screws at one shot, cos the old screws were rusting anyway.

[casperpy]

Hi, planning to get a SP, any sellers letting off SP. Hope to be in excellent condition. Can drop me a text of its changes and a pic of the bike at 93287150. Serious Buyer.

[jbdoggy]

Hi, planning to get a SP, any sellers letting off SP. Hope to be in excellent condition. Can drop me a text of its changes and a pic of the bike at 93287150. Serious Buyer.

 

You can try Carousell. I bought mine from using that app.

 

I was lucky....6 yrs coe left, overhauled engine & new paintwork 3 mths ago at time of purchase, $2.8k. Most of the time i see its $3k & above, even with 3 yrs coe left.

 

Some bikes advertised wld have a lot of parts replaced or overhauled engine etc, some owners wont have anything really done to it other then regular servicing. Mine, overhauled engine with new piston, block etc but suey suey those other 14 yr old parts which were still in good condition then, bit by bit choose to gv way during my ownership! lol.

 

But still a great bike to hv & ride regardless.

[jbdoggy]

Hey Bro Heathx & Sporeknight

 

Im happy to share & update that my problems with my temperamental gearbox as complained previously couple of mths ago now fully cured!

 

I went to Jb, Tai Seng Kooi Motorsports at Jln Harimau Tarum. He changed my 6 clutch plates, new oil, coolant, rear tyre, chain & clutch springs - RM 820. He also gv me 1 can chain lube spray foc. Now changing gear feels smoother & so easy to find neutral liao. All the while the problem was with the damned clutch! Dunno why the sg mechs i met not willing to do anything abt it. All hv same idea of - old bike, no need spend so much $$. Jus bear with the inconvenience/discomfort. Change/replace parts only when really bo pian.

 

My mandarin really crap. Can anyone explain what it means 'clutch pian tai di liao" (is it - clutch plate too low??) How does low clutch plate gv so much problems? Uncle Chong also said same thing, but only loosen clutch cable. Or does it mean clutch plate worn out??

 

What impressed me was, after he changed clutch he asked me go test ride. It felt ok. Then he went test ride, came bk & said my clutch springs gone soft, so need to change. So open up everything again & changed springs. He also showed me the diff in spring stiffness betn old & new. But when all done, I still didnt feel any great diff. How come he can tell??What is he feeling that im not?

 

Tai Seng Kooi was a former regional Honda racing star during 80s & 90s. Seems to be very familiar with sp. So I think for any major repair works in future, I go bk to him liao.

Edited August 22, 2015 by jbdoggy

[FireGunz]

Hey Bro Heathx & Sporeknight

 

Im happy to share & update that my problems with my temperamental gearbox as complained previously couple of mths ago now fully cured!

 

I went to Jb, Tai Seng Kooi Motorsports at Jln Harimau Tarum. He changed my 6 clutch plates, new oil, coolant, rear tyre, chain & clutch springs - RM 820. He also gv me 1 can chain lube spray foc. Now changing gear feels smoother & so easy to find neutral liao. All the while the problem was with the damned clutch! Dunno why the sg mechs i met not willing to do anything abt it. All hv same idea of - old bike, no need spend so much $$. Jus bear with the inconvenience/discomfort. Change/replace parts only when really bo pian.

 

My mandarin really crap. Can anyone explain what it means 'clutch pian tai di liao" (is it - clutch plate too low??) How does low clutch plate gv so much problems? Uncle Chong also said same thing, but only loosen clutch cable. Or does it mean clutch plate worn out??

 

What impressed me was, after he changed clutch he asked me go test ride. It felt ok. Then he went test ride, came bk & said my clutch springs gone soft, so need to change. So open up everything again & changed springs. He also showed me the diff in spring stiffness betn old & new. But when all done, I still didnt feel any great diff. How come he can tell??What is he feeling that im not?

 

Tai Seng Kooi was a former regional Honda racing star during 80s & 90s. Seems to be very familiar with sp. So I think for any major repair works in future, I go bk to him liao.

 

Wow... thank bro, for sharing the value info & the good place to know too.

 

By the way, it your friends recommend you to there? the cost that you spent on it "RM 820" as i think less then SGD$ 290... Hmmm.... I think in SG unable to find that kind of price...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Wow... thank bro, for sharing the value info & the good place to know too.

 

By the way, it your friends recommend you to there? the cost that you spent on it "RM 820" as i think less then SGD$ 290... Hmmm.... I think in SG unable to find that kind of price...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

It was my dad who told me abt it. My dad is a bike racing fan who keeps close watch on racing news & results both local scene & motogp since the 60's. So he knows the name Tai Seng Kooi as he is Msian Honda star racer during the 80's & 90's. He raced a lot with the Honda RC30 if i recall correctly.

 

My dad also goes marketing regularly at Daiman market. So he stumbled across that workshop while around there & recognised the name.

 

I kno many Sg biker like to go to lorong bapok to service bike but neither me nor my dad knows where it is. So he suggested I to go to Tai Seng Kooi instead. Anyway also closer to our family home!

[FireGunz]

It was my dad who told me abt it. My dad is a bike racing fan who keeps close watch on racing news & results both local scene & motogp since the 60's. So he knows the name Tai Seng Kooi as he is Msian Honda star racer during the 80's & 90's. He raced a lot with the Honda RC30 if i recall correctly.

 

My dad also goes marketing regularly at Daiman market. So he stumbled across that workshop while around there & recognised the name.

 

I kno many Sg biker like to go to lorong bapok to service bike but neither me nor my dad knows where it is. So he suggested I to go to Tai Seng Kooi instead. Anyway also closer to our family home!

Wow... that cool...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, it that possible to check tyres air pressure (information) at petrol station using that air pump machine (digital) before you set the new value to pump. you what I mean? just purely to see how much pressure that it (like air pump measurements).

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Hi Seniors, it that possible to check tyres air pressure (information) at petrol station using that air pump machine (digital) before you set the new value to pump. you what I mean? just purely to see how much pressure that it (like air pump measurements).

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

For that you need to use a tyre pressure gauge. Its a pen size instrument. Press the valve end to your tyre valve & the measuring end will shoot out a scale. Just read from that scale in line with the gauge frame.

[FireGunz]

For that you need to use a tyre pressure gauge. Its a pen size instrument. Press the valve end to your tyre valve & the measuring end will shoot out a scale. Just read from that scale in line with the gauge frame.

Ok, thank bro.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[wait4me]

It was my dad who told me abt it. My dad is a bike racing fan who keeps close watch on racing news & results both local scene & motogp since the 60's. So he knows the name Tai Seng Kooi as he is Msian Honda star racer during the 80's & 90's. He raced a lot with the Honda RC30 if i recall correctly.

 

My dad also goes marketing regularly at Daiman market. So he stumbled across that workshop while around there & recognised the name.

 

I kno many Sg biker like to go to lorong bapok to service bike but neither me nor my dad knows where it is. So he suggested I to go to Tai Seng Kooi instead. Anyway also closer to our family home!

 

can he locate a lost SP lol

[Heathx]

It was my dad who told me abt it. My dad is a bike racing fan who keeps close watch on racing news & results both local scene & motogp since the 60's. So he knows the name Tai Seng Kooi as he is Msian Honda star racer during the 80's & 90's. He raced a lot with the Honda RC30 if i recall correctly.

 

My dad also goes marketing regularly at Daiman market. So he stumbled across that workshop while around there & recognised the name.

 

I kno many Sg biker like to go to lorong bapok to service bike but neither me nor my dad knows where it is. So he suggested I to go to Tai Seng Kooi instead. Anyway also closer to our family home!

 

Your dad sibeh power. LOL! Respect!

 

And yeah, if the person is really who your dad says it is, i'm pretty sure he is power enough to feel what's wrong with the bike that normal mortals like us can't. And somemore now with the low ringgit, go msia repair also very worth it.

[jbdoggy]

Your dad sibeh power. LOL! Respect!

 

And yeah, if the person is really who your dad says it is, i'm pretty sure he is power enough to feel what's wrong with the bike that normal mortals like us can't. And somemore now with the low ringgit, go msia repair also very worth it.

 

Ya its really the man himself. When he test ride my bike, he whacked throttle with blips on the upshift & downshifts. When coming back, just to slow turn into the workshop also must spread knee out wide lol. Typical racing style habits hahaha.

 

He also took liberties to reduce my 2t dosage to 1:100, when i wasnt round. Ngam ngam i asked him abt dosage later & he said sp factory setting is 1:80. but 1:100 is ok for commuting, less smokey. When I told him i wanted 1:50, he said quite smoky, but he agree to increase to 1:70. So he turn the nut twice & said "this is 1:70." I blur liao.... That, i thot was sibeh power! lol

 

Anyway the company is on facebook, if you wanna check them out :https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tai-Seng-Kooi-Motorsports-Sdn-Bhd/1416996668579265

 

Apparently they also do track days at Pasir Gudang too.

 

Edit: My apologies, Tai Seng Kooi has 2 branches. One in Jln Harimau Tarum & 1 in Jln Perisai. I went to the Jln Perisai one.

Edited August 25, 2015 by jbdoggy

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, just wondering what will you preferring at 2T (Full or Semi Synthetic) oil / pre - mix (which brand)?

 

As I know using 2T oil which is pour into "Oil container" that under the rider seat then as pre - mix (is water or oil base? Coolant) which type of brand that you are using at? also how do you know how much needed to mix into the petrol tank to get.

 

Example the premix @ 1:100 as the ratio of 1 tank petrol (pump 1 time petrol) mix with ??? ml (what to call as "pre-mix")

 

Still need to learn more about SP stuff...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Hi Seniors, just wondering what will you preferring at 2T (Full or Semi Synthetic) oil / pre - mix (which brand)?

 

As I know using 2T oil which is pour into "Oil container" that under the rider seat then as pre - mix (is water or oil base? Coolant) which type of brand that you are using at? also how do you know how much needed to mix into the petrol tank to get.

 

Example the premix @ 1:100 as the ratio of 1 tank petrol (pump 1 time petrol) mix with ??? ml (what to call as "pre-mix")

 

Still need to learn more about SP stuff...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Use fully synthetic. Many brands available- Motul 710, Castrol Power 1 Racing, Mobil 1 Racing, Maxima etc. Must be careful... some can use for both injection system (2t tank) & premix. Some is only for premix eg Motul 800. For premix type i think the viscosity is thicker, so if you put in your 2t tank youre gonna hv problems. Im currently using Castrol Power 1 Racing.

 

Premix just means that you mix the 2t & petrol manually, instead of letting a pump pump it to your carb for mixing. Dump in the 2t into fuel tank & fill your tank with petrol. The jet from the petrol nozzle will cause enough turbulence in your fuel tank to mix the 2t up together. Your mech will have to cut off your 2t pump supply 1st if youre going the premix way in future. Ive heard of people shaking the bike everytime before they start up to ensure an even mixture. 2t is denser then petrol so tends to settle at the bottom.

 

The advantage of premix is, no risk of piston seizure as always theres a supply of 2t. There are no warning signs if the 2t pump spoil until you seize unfortunately. So some people take maintenance into their own hands instead of depending on pump reliability. Down side to premix is its a bit leceh & messy. Always have to carry a bottle of 2t with you all the time. Refilling that bottle also can be messy if youre not careful due to spilling. When I 1st got my bike it was on premix. Blur liao... dunno how much to put. I heard prev owner a bit wrongly - actually he said 1 capfull & a bit more for every litre but i put in only 1 capfull per litre so ended up a bit too lean. Luckily no real damage. I finally too tired abt all this, so I went to reconnect back the pump. But I had to gv up my fast throttle & replace with stock throttle due to this change. No prblmlah.... fast throttle shiok on xpressway but too sensitive if doing all the very slow speed stuff.

 

1:100 is the dosage. it just means 1 litre 2t to 100 litres petrol => 100ml for 10 litres petrol. so there are many dosages 1:20, 1:32, 1:40, 1:50 etc. I think for most 2t manufacturers, they recommend the minimum dosage as 1:50. (Castrol does). Mine currently is 1:70. I think its too lean for my liking.

Edited August 25, 2015 by jbdoggy

[FireGunz]

Use fully synthetic. Many brands available- Motul 710, Castrol Power 1 Racing, Mobil 1 Racing, Maxima etc. Must be careful... some can use for both injection system (2t tank) & premix. Some is only for premix eg Motul 800. For premix type i think the viscosity is thicker, so if you put in your 2t tank youre gonna hv problems. Im currently using Castrol Power 1 Racing.

 

Premix just means that you mix the 2t & petrol manually, instead of letting a pump pump it to your carb for mixing. Dump in the 2t into fuel tank & fill your tank with petrol. The jet from the petrol nozzle will cause enough turbulence in your fuel tank to mix the 2t up together. Your mech will have to cut off your 2t pump supply 1st if youre going the premix way in future. Ive heard of people shaking the bike everytime before they start up to ensure an even mixture. 2t is denser then petrol so tends to settle at the bottom.

 

The advantage of premix is, no risk of piston seizure as always theres a supply of 2t. There are no warning signs if the 2t pump spoil until you seize unfortunately. So some people take maintenance into their own hands instead of depending on pump reliability. Down side to premix is its a bit leceh & messy. Always have to carry a bottle of 2t with you all the time. Refilling that bottle also can be messy if youre not careful due to spilling. When I 1st got my bike it was on premix. Blur liao... dunno how much to put. I heard prev owner a bit wrongly - actually he said 1 capfull & a bit more for every litre but i put in only 1 capfull per litre so ended up a bit too lean. Luckily no real damage. I finally too tired abt all this, so I went to reconnect back the pump. But I had to gv up my fast throttle & replace with stock throttle due to this change. No prblmlah.... fast throttle shiok on xpressway but too sensitive if doing all the very slow speed stuff.

 

1:100 is the dosage. it just means 1 litre 2t to 100 litres petrol => 100ml for 10 litres petrol. so there are many dosages 1:20, 1:32, 1:40, 1:50 etc. I think for most 2t manufacturers, they recommend the minimum dosage as 1:50. (Castrol does). Mine currently is 1:70. I think its too lean for my liking.

 

Wow... I see. Thank bro for the explanation... as mine is currently use 2T (with 2T pump) as is semi synthetic. so when i buying 2T bottle think "Must be careful" & how do I identify it about that 2T bottle is pre-mix or not? Does it stated on the bottle or need to ask seller before buy it?

 

At the 1st place I was thought that the "Motul" 800 or 710 is pure straight pour in 2T pump. By the way, you using "Castrol Power 1 Racing" is straight pour into 2T pump or pre-mix type?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[jbdoggy]

Wow... I see. Thank bro for the explanation... as mine is currently use 2T (with 2T pump) as is semi synthetic. so when i buying 2T bottle think "Must be careful" & how do I identify it about that 2T bottle is pre-mix or not? Does it stated on the bottle or need to ask seller before buy it?

 

At the 1st place I was thought that the "Motul" 800 or 710 is pure straight pour in 2T pump. By the way, you using "Castrol Power 1 Racing" is straight pour into 2T pump or pre-mix type?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

It will be stated on the container itself - "For premix & injection" that 1 can use for both. Castrol & Motul 710 for example is for both. But Motul 800 is premix only. So read what is on the container 1st.

 

Another thing - Castor oil based 2t. Never mix with synthetic or mineral oil based 2t. It will form resins which will clog up your system & ruin your engine. I believe bro heathx mentioned this before. But the exhaust smell supposedly very fragrant!!

 

Fully synthetic - very lubricating & slippery gives better performance with running engine. But oil particles will just slide off the cylinder walls after you off engine. So morning starts, the cylinder will be very dry.

 

Mineral oil - not as slippery as fully synthetic, but oil particles will still stick to cylinder walls forming a film. So you do hv some lubrication during morning starts.

 

Semi synthetic - part mineral oil, part synthetic oil. Gives best of both worlds. More lubrication during engine runs compared to minarel oils & some oil film on the cylinder walls after off engine.

[Heathx]

Another thing - Castor oil based 2t. Never mix with synthetic or mineral oil based 2t. It will form resins which will clog up your system & ruin your engine. I believe bro heathx mentioned this before. But the exhaust smell supposedly very fragrant!!

 

Ahhhh... yess..... Castor based 2T... the burn smell.... Sibeh nice...... Very racing smell....... LOL!

 

But i prefer fully synthetic with ester, like Motul 800. Rockoil is good too. But these are on the expensive side. Motul 800 my supplier sells $26 per bottle. But good thing is, very little residue to foul up your engine and pipes. Very little white smoke too. It's always worth it to buy good 2T.

 

Premix basically means you mix the petrol and the 2T yourself. Usually, this means when you pump petrol, you pour the 2T directly into the fuel tank. The container under your seat is the 2T reservoir. It is connected to your 2T pump. So if you pour your 2T in that container, then it's not called premix, cos you're going through the pump.

 

On my SP, i had the mech remove the pump and reservoir, and the cable for the pump. Result is i don't need to worry about the pump malfunctioning and piston seizing, my throttle also became lighter because one less wire to pull, and i gain some space under my seat. Some people even say premix is smoother than pump, because pump adjust 2T flow according to your rpm, but premix is constantly at your preset ratio. Cons is at petrol kiosk, i take longer to pump petrol lor. Cos need to open the 'boot', take out the bottle, pour it into the tank, then only can start pumping petrol. Then go home must top up the bottle. But to me, this little inconvenience is worth the peace of mind when you ride.

 

I won't recommend going too lean. I stick to 1:50 personally. It's the most versatile range for me. At low rpm, it doesn't emit much smoke. At high rpm, it provides enough lubrication so no seizing.

[wait4me]

so everytime must "fcuk" your bike after pumping petrol ??

[Heathx]

so everytime must "fcuk" your bike after pumping petrol ??

 

You pour 2T first before pump, then no need shake... But every morning or parked more than 3hrs then need to shake lor.... Sometimes if in a rush then never shake, just jam front brake a bit more at start then the contents of the fuel tank will auto mix liao...

[FireGunz]

You pour 2T first before pump, then no need shake... But every morning or parked more than 3hrs then need to shake lor.... Sometimes if in a rush then never shake, just jam front brake a bit more at start then the contents of the fuel tank will auto mix liao...

Hi bro, this method is apply for "Pre-Mix" (2T that pour into petrol tank). Right?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[sporeknight]

Hi Seniors, it that possible to check tyres air pressure (information) at petrol station using that air pump machine (digital) before you set the new value to pump. you what I mean? just purely to see how much pressure that it (like air pump measurements).

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Of course bro. Initially u press the desired pressure to chg at the pump machine. For me i do it at essomobil kiosks. I always indicate "200". Unit is of course kpa hor. Then u plug the "head of the air nozzle" to yr tyre nozzle. So initially n immediately u put in u will c the initial tyre pressure at the machine screen. For example i alwys hav 190-205 when i start to pump air into my tyre. Then the pump machine will regulate the air pressure to meet yr desired press indicated on the screen. Tis is v useful s when u c the initial pressure, u will knw if u had nail in yr tyre. I was saved many times by doing so when i chk my car Tyre pressure every time i top up my petrol. S soon s u c an abnormal pressure readings u shld send yr tyres for chks b4 u had a flat while riding or driving. For riders it is v impt to chk yr tyre pressure s u wont knw when u had a nail in it.

[FireGunz]

Of course bro. Initially u press the desired pressure to chg at the pump machine. For me i do it at essomobil kiosks. I always indicate "200". Unit is of course kpa hor. Then u plug the "head of the air nozzle" to yr tyre nozzle. So initially n immediately u put in u will c the initial tyre pressure at the machine screen. For example i alwys hav 190-205 when i start to pump air into my tyre. Then the pump machine will regulate the air pressure to meet yr desired press indicated on the screen. Tis is v useful s when u c the initial pressure, u will knw if u had nail in yr tyre. I was saved many times by doing so when i chk my car Tyre pressure every time i top up my petrol. S soon s u c an abnormal pressure readings u shld send yr tyres for chks b4 u had a flat while riding or driving. For riders it is v impt to chk yr tyre pressure s u wont knw when u had a nail in it.

Ok bro, thank for the tips.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[sporeknight]

" I always indicate "200". Unit is of course kpa hor.

 

Sori for typo. I always charge 220kpa to my bike, nt 200.

[FireGunz]

Sori for typo. I always charge 220kpa to my bike, nt 200.

Noted. Thank...

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk