Honda NSR150SP Riders

FireGunz · July 17, 2015

Firegunz

Fuel rate to carb still remains the same even in res. But frankly turning to res when halfway in the red line a wee bit kiasulah. If more gung ho can wait till just before empty to turn. If youre experienced enough like some rider i read in another forum, the moment he sense his sp run out of fuel (frm my past experience - engine sputturs, loss of power or cant quite throttle, bike feels a bit jerky) he quickly switch to res while riding.

But I personally find that way of riding riskylah - I was very near the end of the red line at eunos mrt there. I thot shld still hve jus enuf to take pie bk to my place in circuit rd. But on pie suddenly heard 1 click & engine off. No warning signs, no sputtering or slight jerkiness. Just like that. Luckily that time past midnite & pie lane to paya lebar rd empty & I had speed. I quickly clutch in & signal left to kerb side. I then switch to res & wait for few minutes & then finally can start again & continue my journey home. Learnt my lesson liao. Switch to res a bit earlier much safer step methinks. Better safe then sorry right?

So many things not taught by instructors, but we learn or discover them thro experience. I also newbie jus like you. Riding 3 months only. Steep learning curve!!

Uncle Chong is from planet motors at Ubi rd 1. Many just call him Ah Chong. But i discovered yesterday its not Chong but Cheong. Saw it printed on the back of his helmet - Ah Cheong.

Still wondering how his methods solved my supposedly "low compression" problem. He said give my carb a few knocks & play around with my valves. Do like that & things bk to normal again?? Sounds like a scene from a few tv shows right? Drink machine cant dispense drink, give it a kick or bash the machine up & the coke can drops out! lol.

Thank jbdoggy, for the all value & the experience to share with it. Now at least know about the SP that fuel tap (Fuel cock) usage.

By the way, I had counter the same problem even after turn "Off" the fuel tap for few hours (parking) & turn "On" to start fire up by kick 1 or 2 time it seem unable to start the bike (unless using the choke).

Do you an counter this problem before or it just a normal procedure as long can start fire up by 1 or 2 kick (with or without using the choke knob) will do.

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jbdoggy · July 17, 2015

Thank jbdoggy, for the all value & the experience to share with it. Now at least know about the SP that fuel tap (Fuel cock) usage.

By the way, I had counter the same problem even after turn "Off" the fuel tap for few hours (parking) & turn "On" to start fire up by kick 1 or 2 time it seem unable to start the bike (unless using the choke).

Do you an counter this problem before or it just a normal procedure as long can start fire up by 1 or 2 kick (with or without using the choke knob) will do.

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When I was hvg problems during the week i too found putting the tap to off doesnt really help. Can still fire up by 1-2 kicks but engine will bog when u try to blip throttle.

Never had these type of problems before in the past. Bike will always fire up w/o choke in 1-2 kicks & will not blog if you gv small throttle blips. Thankfully when i tried this morning, it was bk to normal. Thanks to Uncle Cheong's unorthodox methods.

FireGunz · July 18, 2015

Hi Seniors, how long do you change the clutch cable & how much does it cost also does the clutch cable snap easily less then a year or even less then 3 month? (Depends of the usage. Right?)

I had bought the bike less then 2 month. The occur was happen when i were riding on my way home (after work) almost reach at car park entrance. Suddenly the clutch cable got snap when I were changing gear then i pushing bike all the car park.

I had just replace it around $30 (normal type clutch cable) last 3 week @ Unique & it seem solve the stall engine problem while waiting at the traffic light. Now feel the clutch cable slightly loosen it again (from the clutch lever) & it seem the same problem (stall engine) come back again and I thinking the cable wouldn't last long again.

Any recommendations for the clutch cable or any advise will help too.

Thank.

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Edited July 18, 2015 by FireGunz

jbdoggy · July 18, 2015

Firegunz,

clutch cable actually very durable. Can last longer then your clutch plates. So, hard to imagine it can snap unless it is already very old.

Sounds to me you have clutch cable tension problem. Can get mech to adjust or you diy.

At your clutch lever there, notice a pair of nuts? loosen the lock nut (the bigger 1) & turn the flat nut clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. When it is adjusted, tighten back the lock nut.

Maintenance- get mech to grease the cable when you send for servicing.

Sethyeo · July 18, 2015

Can I ask anyone knows where can get fairings are? Thanks. Wanting to replace some parts of the cover and re paint.

FireGunz · July 18, 2015

Hi Jbdoggy, it the clutch lever is unable to fully close (Still loosen) even already adjust the clutch tension at anti-clockwise?

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Heathx · July 20, 2015

Hehehe... MIA over the long weekend...

Problem starting bike can be due to a few factors. Carb flood is only one of the possible causes. So if you off the tap already but next morning still have problem to start, means u can eliminate carb flood as a cause. Could be spark plug wet, could be low compression, could be quite a few other causes also. In a sense, maybe it was a blessing in disguise that when i bought my SP, the block was ported and the cylinder head was shaved to increase the compression of the engine, so could start easily. After 2 months riding though, i went to check the whole bike and found pitting in the block, so changed new block and piston, so basically compression as good as new lah. Then i had a good mech to help me do the settings and i kept it in good condition, so easy to start within 1-3 kicks. If your problem with the kickstarting continue to persist, it'll be good if you can find a reliable mech to help check what the issue is. Tell the person explicitly what your issues are, "bike cannot start within 3 kicks", "bike start within 2 kicks but stall when i blip throttle" etc.

Btw, after starting bike, don't immediately open throttle big big to blip. Start small, start slow, listen to your engine, communicate with it. It's like foreplay. You open a bit a bit, hear the engine like want to go back sleep, then you close, then open open a bit, hear it want to sleep, then close, then open again slowly, hear it begin to wake up and get turned on liao, then u continue to open a bit a bit more and more then close and open a little bit bigger this time... then close and open again until your engine fully awake..

Jbdoggy, you and Ah Chong maybe both not wrong. Cos your piston maybe old already, dun fit your block as tight as it used to when cold. But after a while of running, it will expand, so the compression will seem to come back. But might be issue when starting bike. As for him knock knock carb and adjust the valve.... these are mechanic secrets... You can try ask him to teach you. Hahaha... But i've seen some of them do those before to temporarily solve the issue. In the long run maybe the issue may come back, maybe won't, but at least for now, he solve your problem and you don't need to pay.

If fuel cork is loose, need to remove the fuel tank. You will see like some metal tap thing protruding out from the tank. Use a spanner to tighten the nut. Sometimes, if you unscrew the tap, you will see the rust build up there also. The rust is from your fuel tank, then collect over there over time. Just use petrol to rinse away and put back.

As for the RES, i have a habit of pumping petrol when my bike hits 1/4 petrol left on meter so i seldom reach reserve. Cos i use premix, and each bottle of 2T i keep is 5.4litres worth of petrol, so when meter at 1/4, just nice. However, i have rode until hit reserve before. Basically while riding halfway, the bike suddenly like lose power, then when you open throttle no effect one. Don't need to slow down and shift to shoulder all those. Just keep your bike straight, close throttle, and use your left hand quickly turn the knob to reserve, then open throttle slowly and continue. The better tip is, when you approaching red line, just on the reserve and faster find a petrol kiosk.

Clutch cable is usually very durable as jbdoggy said. Usually during installation, they will lubricate the inside of the cable so it's smoother when you clutch in and out, and it reduces abrasion. Sounds like yours somehow the wire was tight then suddenly became loose. You can always try go Ah Chong or my mech instead to change the wire. Tell them the issue with the clutch you faced before, then let them remedy it.

@Sethyeo , fairing can get from Everfit or Ever Success or FJT. Just google for their address and contact. They are Honda authorised dealers in Singapore and all within walking distance of each other. Any SP parts you need, can get from them.

FireGunz · July 20, 2015

Hehehe... MIA over the long weekend...

Problem starting bike can be due to a few factors. Carb flood is only one of the possible causes. So if you off the tap already but next morning still have problem to start, means u can eliminate carb flood as a cause. Could be spark plug wet, could be low compression, could be quite a few other causes also. In a sense, maybe it was a blessing in disguise that when i bought my SP, the block was ported and the cylinder head was shaved to increase the compression of the engine, so could start easily. After 2 months riding though, i went to check the whole bike and found pitting in the block, so changed new block and piston, so basically compression as good as new lah. Then i had a good mech to help me do the settings and i kept it in good condition, so easy to start within 1-3 kicks. If your problem with the kickstarting continue to persist, it'll be good if you can find a reliable mech to help check what the issue is. Tell the person explicitly what your issues are, "bike cannot start within 3 kicks", "bike start within 2 kicks but stall when i blip throttle" etc.

Btw, after starting bike, don't immediately open throttle big big to blip. Start small, start slow, listen to your engine, communicate with it. It's like foreplay. You open a bit a bit, hear the engine like want to go back sleep, then you close, then open open a bit, hear it want to sleep, then close, then open again slowly, hear it begin to wake up and get turned on liao, then u continue to open a bit a bit more and more then close and open a little bit bigger this time... then close and open again until your engine fully awake..

Jbdoggy, you and Ah Chong maybe both not wrong. Cos your piston maybe old already, dun fit your block as tight as it used to when cold. But after a while of running, it will expand, so the compression will seem to come back. But might be issue when starting bike. As for him knock knock carb and adjust the valve.... these are mechanic secrets... You can try ask him to teach you. Hahaha... But i've seen some of them do those before to temporarily solve the issue. In the long run maybe the issue may come back, maybe won't, but at least for now, he solve your problem and you don't need to pay.

If fuel cork is loose, need to remove the fuel tank. You will see like some metal tap thing protruding out from the tank. Use a spanner to tighten the nut. Sometimes, if you unscrew the tap, you will see the rust build up there also. The rust is from your fuel tank, then collect over there over time. Just use petrol to rinse away and put back.

As for the RES, i have a habit of pumping petrol when my bike hits 1/4 petrol left on meter so i seldom reach reserve. Cos i use premix, and each bottle of 2T i keep is 5.4litres worth of petrol, so when meter at 1/4, just nice. However, i have rode until hit reserve before. Basically while riding halfway, the bike suddenly like lose power, then when you open throttle no effect one. Don't need to slow down and shift to shoulder all those. Just keep your bike straight, close throttle, and use your left hand quickly turn the knob to reserve, then open throttle slowly and continue. The better tip is, when you approaching red line, just on the reserve and faster find a petrol kiosk.

Clutch cable is usually very durable as jbdoggy said. Usually during installation, they will lubricate the inside of the cable so it's smoother when you clutch in and out, and it reduces abrasion. Sounds like yours somehow the wire was tight then suddenly became loose. You can always try go Ah Chong or my mech instead to change the wire. Tell them the issue with the clutch you faced before, then let them remedy it.

@Sethyeo , fairing can get from Everfit or Ever Success or FJT. Just google for their address and contact. They are Honda authorised dealers in Singapore and all within walking distance of each other. Any SP parts you need, can get from them.

Hi Heathx, it good to see you back.

Hmmm... Thinking going to your mech place (Inspire 21 @ #05-23, right?) tonight after Mid-Night around 0030 hours (hopefully it open). By the way, do your mech do the top/full service, how long does it to be completed & roughly how much it the cost? (Base on your experience over there).

Thank.

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Edited July 20, 2015 by FireGunz

Heathx · July 20, 2015

Hi Heathx, it good to see you back.
Hmmm... Thinking going to your mech place (Inspire 21 @ #05-23, right?) tonight after Mid-Night around 0030 hours (hopefully it open). By the way, do your mech do the top/full service, how long does it to be completed & roughly how much it the cost? (Base on your experience over there).
Thank.

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After midnight arh? A bit dangerous. I suggest you call him first before heading down. If not you go down then he suey suey tonight close early u waste one trip there. i'll pm you his number.

I have never done top/full service at his place so far. I only started going to him a year and half ago on recommendation from a friend. Before Ah Heng, i was doing my SP at another mech, but apparently he got some issue, so i sourced for another mech, and a good friend recommended Ah Heng to me. Then i went to Ah Heng and did a full overhaul lor, crankshaft, engine bearings, gears, all that kinda thing. But i believe his servicing should be around $100-150. You need to check with him.

As for how long...... really depends... Usually need to put bike for a day at least... cos he need time to open up and service. Then usually since need change piston rings, he need to get the parts also. Another factor is also how many bikes are in queue for him to service... but at least 2 days i would say, not counting tonight. This is what i foresee he will do based on my experience lah, but he may have other ideas. lol.

You put tonight, but cos after midnight, unlikely he will open and do anything today, (it takes some time to open up to peek at the engine and piston). Tmr when he open shop, he will open up and check the bike. He will fix what he can, then certain parts if he have on stock, he can do immediately. If he don't have the part, he will need to get the next day, cos the shops all closed already. If you heng, he got parts, and he got time to do your bike immediately (no previous queue of bikes) then maybe that night alone can get. But if need to get parts or there is queue of bikes, he will let you know agar when can collect.

FireGunz · July 20, 2015

After midnight arh? A bit dangerous. I suggest you call him first before heading down. If not you go down then he suey suey tonight close early u waste one trip there. i'll pm you his number.

I have never done top/full service at his place so far. I only started going to him a year and half ago on recommendation from a friend. Before Ah Heng, i was doing my SP at another mech, but apparently he got some issue, so i sourced for another mech, and a good friend recommended Ah Heng to me. Then i went to Ah Heng and did a full overhaul lor, crankshaft, engine bearings, gears, all that kinda thing. But i believe his servicing should be around $100-150. You need to check with him.

As for how long...... really depends... Usually need to put bike for a day at least... cos he need time to open up and service. Then usually since need change piston rings, he need to get the parts also. Another factor is also how many bikes are in queue for him to service... but at least 2 days i would say, not counting tonight. This is what i foresee he will do based on my experience lah, but he may have other ideas. lol.

You put tonight, but cos after midnight, unlikely he will open and do anything today, (it takes some time to open up to peek at the engine and piston). Tmr when he open shop, he will open up and check the bike. He will fix what he can, then certain parts if he have on stock, he can do immediately. If he don't have the part, he will need to get the next day, cos the shops all closed already. If you heng, he got parts, and he got time to do your bike immediately (no previous queue of bikes) then maybe that night alone can get. But if need to get parts or there is queue of bikes, he will let you know agar when can collect.

Ok. Thank for the info & help too.

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FireGunz · July 20, 2015

Hi Seniors, just wondering it the bike glitch?

When the "Headlight" @ normal usage it only 1 light at the Left bulb is ON (base on left signal side) as the Right bulb is Off, so when press the "Passing Switch" (near the infront the headlight switch) the both light bulbs are ON also the high beam indicator turn blue color.

Now when switch on to High Beam (not passing switch) mode the Right bulb is on & the Left bulb is Off... Hmmm... It seem weird. Right?

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jbdoggy · July 20, 2015

Hi Jbdoggy, it the clutch lever is unable to fully close (Still loosen) even already adjust the clutch tension at anti-clockwise?

Not sure if I understand you. Are you saying your clutch lever cannot press in full? If yes, it could mean your clutch cable too short or need to loosen some more, maybe this time at the gearbox side also. Same principle as the lock nut set from lever side apply.

But most impt thing is, even if cant fully press in lever but clutch fully disengages, and your biting point still achiveable when you release from that "unfull" posn, & fully engages when fully released then I think still ok. Just need to get used to the difference only, if youre ok with it. If not ask mech to adjust or diy.

Hi Seniors, just wondering it the bike glitch?

When the "Headlight" @ normal usage it only 1 light at the Left bulb is ON (base on left signal side) as the Right bulb is Off, so when press the "Passing Switch" (near the infront the headlight switch) the both light bulbs are ON also the high beam indicator turn blue color.

Now when switch on to High Beam (not passing switch) mode the Right bulb is on & the Left bulb is Off... Hmmm... It seem weird. Right?

Based on my observations of many bikes, all bikes are 1 eyed jack when normal headlight is on. 2 eyes open only when high beam is on. But in my sp case, I think prev owner mod it so that it wld be 2 eyes open with normal headlights. With high beam on, both lights will point more upward. I also like it this way. The nxt time i upgrade to my dream bike i will also mod it for 2 eyes open case. 1 eyed jack very ugly & width range not so good. My riding buddy own an r15 always ride with high beam on cos of width range problem. He lso thinks 1 eyed jack very ugly.

Edited July 20, 2015 by jbdoggy

jbdoggy · July 20, 2015

Hey bro Heathx. Hope you enjoyed your long weekend. Thnks for sharing.

The thing abt my engine is, the prev owner had a full overhaul in jan including new block & piston. $1200++ spent. So everything still quite new & I did not constantly whack the throttle all this while so how to have "low compression" bcos of "spoilt piston"or "spoilt block" as what Ah Cheong claims? The thing is, apart from last thurs, no problems starting in 1-2 kicks. Just that light blipping & the engine bogs. Leave it idling long enough & engine can die on its own. Idling speed abt 1.4 k revs. Last thurs even aftr a very short ride & engine warmed up already, idling speed dropped to 1 k & eventually stalled at red lights. Difficult to restart but kick starter didnt seem lighter leh. If low compression kick starting also feel lighter right?

Abt a week before my problems however, I really whack throttle at a lonely unused straight road at well past midnite just to see what the bike can do. Tarik to 10k revs & go thro all the gears. Total time spent at it was at most 1 minute overall. Apart from that, last times 4-5 times tarik to 8-9k revs when on acceleration lane to xpressway or trying to overtake or lane change. Most of the time however im anywhere betn 4-7k revs normal riding. So I dun think ive really abused the bike too much. I kno i did 1 mistake 3 times - try to tarik throttle when not fully warmed up - tarik to 7k revs, very draggy & no power. But stopped trying to tarik after that. Dunno if any damage came from there or not.

But aftr ah cheong's 'treatment'. i tried to whack throttle for 1st 3 gears & the bike still can fly. I also tried a bit engine braking when coming close to red light in 2nd & 1st gear & compression still v strong. Thats why I have doubts abt Uncle Cheong's diagnosis. Funny thing was las weekend I went for long ride, when i 1st started, idling was 1.4krevs. After we stopped for drinks & rest & want to continue our ride, when I started engine, idling speed only 1k. Had to gv a small blip to get it to 1.2k revs, so maybe problem still there?? But engine & throttle did seem smoother for part 2 riding. But for now things still seem l good, tho i still hv insecurities abt piston and/or block being actually spoilt.

Last sat morning I rode to the mech recommended by the prev owner & asked him to wash carb & told him my problems. The boss is a v nice guy but not in at that time. But his right hand man unwilling to clean cos too much work. Instead he sell me an additive to add to fuel to lubricate & clean the top end & jets. wtf. If thats the case I might as well get dbs esso card & get 17% discount for synergy 8000 instead of buying 1 $4 bottle lubricating additives every 3-4 top up. Synergy 8000 already has cleaning & lubricating additives in the petrol.

Feel very tempted to just go for a full service. But not sure if its just panic buttons on my side. Full service includes servicing the top end too doenst it?

Edited July 20, 2015 by jbdoggy

FireGunz · July 21, 2015

Not sure if I understand you. Are you saying your clutch lever cannot press in full? If yes, it could mean your clutch cable too short or need to loosen some more, maybe this time at the gearbox side also. Same principle as the lock nut set from lever side apply.

But most impt thing is, even if cant fully press in lever but clutch fully disengages, and your biting point still achiveable when you release from that "unfull" posn, & fully engages when fully released then I think still ok. Just need to get used to the difference only, if youre ok with it. If not ask mech to adjust or diy.

Based on my observations of many bikes, all bikes are 1 eyed jack when normal headlight is on. 2 eyes open only when high beam is on. But in my sp case, I think prev owner mod it so that it wld be 2 eyes open with normal headlights. With high beam on, both lights will point more upward. I also like it this way. The nxt time i upgrade to my dream bike i will also mod it for 2 eyes open case. 1 eyed jack very ugly & width range not so good. My riding buddy own an r15 always ride with high beam on cos of width range problem. He lso thinks 1 eyed jack very ugly.

Hi Jbdoggy, thank for the advise & tip info.

Think will give mech to check it.

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Heathx · July 21, 2015

Based on my observations of many bikes, all bikes are 1 eyed jack when normal headlight is on. 2 eyes open only when high beam is on. But in my sp case, I think prev owner mod it so that it wld be 2 eyes open with normal headlights. With high beam on, both lights will point more upward. I also like it this way. The nxt time i upgrade to my dream bike i will also mod it for 2 eyes open case. 1 eyed jack very ugly & width range not so good. My riding buddy own an r15 always ride with high beam on cos of width range problem. He lso thinks 1 eyed jack very ugly.

SP-era bikes (CBR400RR, RVF400) default whether high or low beam is always both lights on. If one side not on, means your bulb filament gone or previous owner purposely. The newer sports bike mostly are 1 eyed. The other side is for high beam only.

Abt a week before my problems however, I really whack throttle at a lonely unused straight road at well past midnite just to see what the bike can do. Tarik to 10k revs & go thro all the gears. Total time spent at it was at most 1 minute overall. Apart from that, last times 4-5 times tarik to 8-9k revs when on acceleration lane to xpressway or trying to overtake or lane change. Most of the time however im anywhere betn 4-7k revs normal riding. So I dun think ive really abused the bike too much. I kno i did 1 mistake 3 times - try to tarik throttle when not fully warmed up - tarik to 7k revs, very draggy & no power. But stopped trying to tarik after that. Dunno if any damage came from there or not.

But aftr ah cheong's 'treatment'. i tried to whack throttle for 1st 3 gears & the bike still can fly. I also tried a bit engine braking when coming close to red light in 2nd & 1st gear & compression still v strong. Thats why I have doubts abt Uncle Cheong's diagnosis. Funny thing was las weekend I went for long ride, when i 1st started, idling was 1.4krevs. After we stopped for drinks & rest & want to continue our ride, when I started engine, idling speed only 1k. Had to gv a small blip to get it to 1.2k revs, so maybe problem still there?? But engine & throttle did seem smoother for part 2 riding. But for now things still seem l good, tho i still hv insecurities abt piston and/or block being actually spoilt.

Not meaning to alarm you, but when you whack like this, make sure your 2T is a good one, and you add enough 2T. I'm not sure what 2T you use, and how much you mix, but if it's cheap 2T and you did not open your 2T pump to mix more 2T, or even good 2T, but never open enough, you might have caused scratches in your piston and block. MIGHT. I cannot be sure, because i'm not a mech, and need to open up the block and piston to confirm for sure. I dare to open throttle on my bike because i use Motul 800, and i premix enough to tahan high revs for extended period. Normal road riding, i premix about 20ml/litre. For track i premix 25ml/litre. My SP I removed the 2T pump and reservoir, so I have to add 2T directly into my fuel tank when I pump petrol. More troublesome, but no need to worry piston jam if 2T pump breakdown.

I always take the mech's diagnosis with some salt if i feel it's an engine problem, but they don't open up to see before they give their diagnosis. I mean, experience is one thing, but even with the great experience of Ah Chong, it's really a lucky guess at best. To open, will be to confirm 100%. I don't mind leaving the bike there and paying for labour costs of opening up the bike to check, at least i have some peace of mind after that. The funny thing is, sometimes mechanics like Ah Chong got the most illogical and interesting solutions to bike problems due to their experience, yet their solutions seem to work. Itâ€™s something that Iâ€™ve come to accept sometimes.

As for the idling issue, it happens. Because SP is carburetor bike. The idling will be different from when just start bike and idling after some journey. After you ride a while, the bike is already warmed up, and the fuel-air mixture in the carburetor is very close to whatever your carb settings are, so the idling will be natural. After you park the bike, the bike cools down, petrol leak into the carb slowly, OR, the petrol in the carb evaporate a bit (happens), so your carb the mixture at the moment is upsetted already. If petrol leak into carb, when you start bike again, your idling will be low initially until the excess petrol is burnt off and the fuel-air ratio is back to normal. Think of it as, you have too much fuel, but not enough oxygen for combustion, so the burning is sluggish. If petrol evaporate, means your carb mixture at that point too lean, your initial rpm when start bike will be higher than normal. This is nothing to be alarmed over, unless you ride halfway and your rpm drops until you stall. This then will be because of a few other reasons. Could be carb dirty, fuel jets is dirty and blocked or damaged, spark plug fouled, battery weak etc.

The fuel additive all those, I never used before, so I wonâ€™t know. All I know is my SP I feed him Caltex 98 and Motul 800 and he runs like a dream. No additives.

When you start a carburetor bike like SP, itâ€™s good to let it warm up for about 3-5mins before you ride off. Whereas once you upgrade to the newer model fuel injection bikes, you can just start and go (gradually increasing rpm of course, not straight go 12k rpm).

http://motorbikewriter.com/how-warm-motorcycle-engine/

Edited July 21, 2015 by Heathx

jbdoggy · July 21, 2015

Heathx,

Thanks so much for your input. Im learning so much from you these last couple of months.

I currently use castrol power 1 racing 2t. Not sure what the dosage is currently as I had ah cheong reduce my dosage in mid june due to too much tar stains. My latest 2t top up was early July. I will chk the 2t tank at abt month end or so. Prev dosage was abt 1:20 - 1:25 mix. Castrol is good up to abt 1:50 mix. If I find by the nxt time i top up is less then 1:50 Im gonna insist the dosage be increased. Im keeping track of my fuel top up values to derive my dosage later.

Based on your figures, 20ml/litre for normal riding is 1:50 mix. & track 25ml/litre is 1:40mix.

But Im also curious abt Motul & heard many good things abt it. Maybe when I next go to stock up my 2t I will include 1 bottle of Motul 710.

Heathx · July 21, 2015

Heathx,

Thanks so much for your input. Im learning so much from you these last couple of months.

I currently use castrol power 1 racing 2t. Not sure what the dosage is currently as I had ah cheong reduce my dosage in mid june due to too much tar stains. My latest 2t top up was early July. I will chk the 2t tank at abt month end or so. Prev dosage was abt 1:20 - 1:25 mix. Castrol is good up to abt 1:50 mix. If I find by the nxt time i top up is less then 1:50 Im gonna insist the dosage be increased. Im keeping track of my fuel top up values to derive my dosage later.

Based on your figures, 20ml/litre for normal riding is 1:50 mix. & track 25ml/litre is 1:40mix.

But Im also curious abt Motul & heard many good things abt it. Maybe when I next go to stock up my 2t I will include 1 bottle of Motul 710.

Fully Synthetic 2T with ester technology will be best. I have not used Castrol, but heard it's not bad. I use Motul because reputation not bad and can't go wrong. Although Motul 800 a bit hard to get from shops. I usually buy from iRide SG from facebook.

Whatever you do, if you change 2T, NEVER mixed castor-based 2T with synthetic 2T, it'll cause some chemical reaction that will foul up your fuel lines and engine. If you ever need to change, best to run your tank to reserve, and then a bit more, before you change 2T.

FireGunz · July 22, 2015

Hi Seniors, any of you have been use the "aftermarket" break pump & clutch lever before?

If yes, could you recommend it & also just wondering that the adjustable lever suitable for SP?

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Edited July 22, 2015 by FireGunz

Heathx · July 22, 2015

Hi Seniors, any of you have been use the "aftermarket" break pump & clutch lever before?
If yes, could you recommend it & also just wondering that the adjustable lever suitable for SP?

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I used the stock brembo brake pump for R6 on my SP previously. You can top up a bit and get Brembo RCS15 if you're feeling rich. If on a budget, don't need to get so good ones. The normal stock SP one is good enough, but make sure you get "original original" not "oem original" or "chiong".

Adjustable levers is no issue. it's just aesthetics and own ergonomics. Some people hand small, so adjust the lever closer. Some hand big, prefer adjust further.

If on a budget, there are many people advertising on those facebook groups what SG bikers sales/trades etc kinda groups. Usually what they sell are those replica or not mainstream brands. Take them up at your own risk.

If i were to recommend, i would say spend a bit more, get the RCS15 brake pump and cylinder set. As for clutch side, dun need to change anything. At least for the duration of your riding, you have a reliable brake pump. When you decide to sell your bike, you can choose to dekit the RCS15 to sell separately or to sell with the bike.

FireGunz · July 22, 2015

I used the stock brembo brake pump for R6 on my SP previously. You can top up a bit and get Brembo RCS15 if you're feeling rich. If on a budget, don't need to get so good ones. The normal stock SP one is good enough, but make sure you get "original original" not "oem original" or "chiong".

Adjustable levers is no issue. it's just aesthetics and own ergonomics. Some people hand small, so adjust the lever closer. Some hand big, prefer adjust further.

If on a budget, there are many people advertising on those facebook groups what SG bikers sales/trades etc kinda groups. Usually what they sell are those replica or not mainstream brands. Take them up at your own risk.

If i were to recommend, i would say spend a bit more, get the RCS15 brake pump and cylinder set. As for clutch side, dun need to change anything. At least for the duration of your riding, you have a reliable brake pump. When you decide to sell your bike, you can choose to dekit the RCS15 to sell separately or to sell with the bike.

Thank for info bro.

As my clutch lever seem not the original & it seem like might be yamaha model... as that connection part (where to adjust the nuts for free play) cable to lever which is curve into handle bar. In long term around 3 - 4 week it might snap again. So need to change the clutch lever.

Another reason to change for brake lever (chrome colour) due to the colour to match the clutch lever colour. When change the clutch lever to original (it might be black colour).

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Heathx · July 22, 2015

Thank for info bro.

As my clutch lever seem not the original & it seem like might be yamaha model... as that connection part (where to adjust the nuts for free play) cable to lever which is curve into handle bar. In long term around 3 - 4 week it might snap again. So need to change the clutch lever.

Another reason to change for brake lever (chrome colour) due to the colour to match the clutch lever colour. When change the clutch lever to original (it might be black colour).

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If that's the case, then just change the clutch lever to original SP one first. If i'm not wrong, the colour is black. Brake lever original should be black also. If you want them to be matching, you can get a good quality spray paint and paint your brake lever black also.

But if you have OCD like me, then you can also get cheap, generic matching brake and clutch levers from LAB or facebook. But before you pay, please make sure they can fit.

speaking bout levers... kns... why my clutch levers still no stock... arggghhhhh... one side silver one side black... buey tahan...

kay1605203579 · July 23, 2015

I think im the only few here who doesn't care about the outlook of the part. Over the past year, internal components have been gradually changed to brand new ones.

My SP exterior is full of scratches. haha

Heathx · July 24, 2015

I think im the only few here who doesn't care about the outlook of the part. Over the past year, internal components have been gradually changed to brand new ones.

My SP exterior is full of scratches. haha

Well, the internal is always the most impt lah... Hahaha... bike exterior how nice, the engine cannot make it, also no point. Some people treat bike as a transport only, as long as can move point A to B, they happy liao. Others, like me, have the philosophy if you treat the bike well, the bike will treat you well also. Personally, i think if my bike looks good internally and externally, it'll make me feel good also lah... hahaha...

sporeknight · July 25, 2015

Hi Seniors, just wondering it the bike glitch?

When the "Headlight" @ normal usage it only 1 light at the Left bulb is ON (base on left signal side) as the Right bulb is Off, so when press the "Passing Switch" (near the infront the headlight switch) the both light bulbs are ON also the high beam indicator turn blue color.

Now when switch on to High Beam (not passing switch) mode the Right bulb is on & the Left bulb is Off... Hmmm... It seem weird. Right?

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Hi firegunz, s u knw, each headlight bulb gt 2 filaments - 1 hi, 1lo. the bulb 1 side on/off (1 eye jack) is due to 2factors:

1. The filament for lo/hi for 1 bulb is spoilt. So when u toggle it, u will get 1 eye jack. (v normal case)

2. The connector (2pin round shaped) behind the bulb, 1 of the pin is not touching the bulb. So u will get tis 1 eye jack symptom even if both filaments (lo/hi) is ok.

For 2nd factor, I hav personally encounter it. I chk filaments ok, then when told out the connector, 1 pin is sunken in, so NT touching the bulb.

sporeknight · July 25, 2015

Ive had my bike nearly 3 mths liao. No problems with cold starting. Fire up by 1st or 2nd kick, & ready to ride after warmup a bit.

Suddenly im hvg problems with cold engine. Still no problem firing up but if you try to blip throttle, engine will bog & die. And then it will be a bit difficult to start again. Unless you choke. Even when engine has warmed up sometimes engine will still bog, when trying to move off from carpark. Idliing speed still ok. 1.4k.

Last nite I let the bike idle for awhile & it died on its own later. And then again difficult to start. Choke it & it started but still boggy when try to blip. Engine already warmed up liao. After choking for a abt a minute then bike finally ok to use.

Currently i off fuel tap at night & while at work, seems to hv some improvement.

Is it carb flooded or carb dirty?

I always start my bike (cold/warmed-up) using choke. Sometimes I did NT ride for 4-5days, will hav to pull choke and kick 7-10x. Aft abt 20s, press bk the choke and blip throttle. U can hear the engine sound if it is dying. If feel like dying, pull bk choke. Aft abt 1min warm up, can move off Liao. Norm times if everyday ride still nd pull choke, but 2-4x ok Liao. Idling rpm alwys arnd 1.4.

I hav alwys switch my "fuel cork" to reserve. Try NT to turn the thing too freq s it may b loose and worse case may cause fuel leak. My mileage is abt 200km b4 totally empty. So looking at fuel gauge and tripmeter, I would knw when I ND to top up.

There is a time when my engine alwys stall even warm up fully. Idlingspeed yellow knob hav adjusted but no use. In the end sent to wkshop n chk carb. V clean. Then he took out the fuel tank n discover a black-color rubber part(jus above carb) is crack. Air leaking. So he chg new one n everything bk to norm. Do take note batt power also impt. If batt no gd, nd to chg, may cause damage to other parts. Same s yr spark plug.

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