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Posted
Originally posted by nE0@Jul 25 2005, 11:55 PM

This problem is the same with some other V-twins with forward facing cylinders, where the forward cylinder is exposed to whatever is thrown at it by the front wheel.

 

I don't know if a fender extender would help, but cleaning the electrical contacts, plugs and sensors, then sealing it should solve the problem. Use a proper high temperature silicone liquid gasket.

use plastic bag cover can anot??

:cheeky:

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11337/tri_daytona675.jpg

 

counting down again to the final class of license..

 

riding.. freedom.. it comes together..

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Posted
Originally posted by stardust@Jul 25 2005, 11:46 PM

please please please don't install hard boxes! :)

why leh...?

 

Its better to have lived and lost than to never live at all. Live it, the way you want it.

 

 

Posted
Originally posted by hart@Jul 26 2005, 12:02 AM

use plastic bag cover can anot??

:cheeky:

can la but it will melt only lor...

 

:cheeky:

 

Its better to have lived and lost than to never live at all. Live it, the way you want it.

 

 

Posted

the rain is really driving me nuts.

 

was lazy cover my bike yesterday after consistently making use of my bike cover for the past few days, and this is what happened:

 

1. started bike while on side stand

2. let engine warm up while i wiped the tank, seat, etc dry

3. put on my jacket, gloves and helmet

4. sit on the bike, engage first gear, engine died

5. tried starting again, wouldnt start

 

think water seeped in somewhere when i set the bike upright after warming up the engine. had to take the bus to work today :giddy:

 

good thing my office only 10 minutes away from home :sweat:

 

should be able to get it running after everything dries up (hopefully), anything to check before i try starting up the bike again? how come other bike never put cover also no problem :mad:

 

anyone noticed that there is a place under the fueltank somewhere where the water can stagnate? coz i noticed that some water flowed out when i lifted the fueltank :help:

Posted
Originally posted by adrianslacker@Jul 26 2005, 12:13 PM

the rain is really driving me nuts.

 

was lazy cover my bike yesterday after consistently making use of my bike cover for the past few days, and this is what happened:

 

1. started bike while on side stand

2. let engine warm up while i wiped the tank, seat, etc dry

3. put on my jacket, gloves and helmet

4. sit on the bike, engage first gear, engine died

5. tried starting again, wouldnt start

 

think water seeped in somewhere when i set the bike upright after warming up the engine. had to take the bus to work today :giddy:

 

good thing my office only 10 minutes away from home :sweat:

 

should be able to get it running after everything dries up (hopefully), anything to check before i try starting up the bike again? how come other bike never put cover also no problem :mad:

 

anyone noticed that there is a place under the fueltank somewhere where the water can stagnate? coz i noticed that some water flowed out when i lifted the fueltank :help:

Have you change your spark plugs? :confused:

Posted

i encouter this problem b4...

its my plug cable head problem.. rubber teared n water went in!

 

Its better to have lived and lost than to never live at all. Live it, the way you want it.

 

 

Posted

hey guys, its water in the carburator and spark plugs.

 

heres dili's quote:

 

spark plugs = 2 x $10

carb floats = 2 x $80

workmanship = $40 (includes carb tuning)

bike towing = $20

 

:giddy:

 

reasonable?

 

guess i was right, water has been collecting in the fuel tank and causing this. This explains why the engine died when i set the bike upright.

 

and to think all this could have been avoided by using the bike cover :sian:

 

next question is how to waterproof my bike so it doesnt happen again?

Posted

Errrrr.... why are they charging you for the plugs and carb floats? There's nothing wrong with them.

 

If its truly water in the fuel, the corrective action is to

 

a) Drain the tank of its bottom liter of petrol (fuel floats and water sinks)

b) Open up the carbs' drain plug and drain the float bowls

c) Clean the carbs

d) Reconnect the fuel hose to the carb

e) Prime the carbs by cranking the engine a few times

 

The floats are plastic. Plastic doesnt get damaged by water does it? Will cost labour charges at most.

 

To prevent future occurances, check that your fuel tank overflow tube is not kinked. This will allow water that seeps in from around the gas cap to drain out via the tube. If the tube is kinked, the water does not drain out. When you stood the bike upright, the standing water is dumped straight into the fuel cell.

Posted
Errrrr.... why are they charging you for the plugs and carb floats? There's nothing wrong with them.

well i dont mind changing the spark plugs, but not sure about the carb floats. (and why do they cost so much??) According to kelvin from dili it "expanded" :confused:

will request to see what they took out.

 

To prevent future occurances, check that your fuel tank overflow tube is not kinked. This will allow water that seeps in from around the gas cap to drain out via the tube. If the tube is kinked, the water does not drain out. When you stood the bike upright, the standing water is dumped straight into the fuel cell

yup, was going to check that, thanks for your input man.

 

Hope we can meet up soon, maybe we should have a DIY session :cheer:

Posted
Originally posted by adrianslacker@Jul 28 2005, 03:22 PM

well i dont mind changing the spark plugs, but not sure about the carb floats. (and why do they cost so much??) According to kelvin from dili it "expanded" :confused:

will request to see what they took out.

 

 

yup, was going to check that, thanks for your input man.

 

Hope we can meet up soon, maybe we should have a DIY session :cheer:

The way I saw u left the bike in the rain at your block, I knew it gonna be problem.:weep:

 

The plug i left for u is platinum core plug cost $11 /pc able to last for 100,000km, the plug the shop will replace is normal copper core plug cost $3 /pc. Even when water penetrate the plug, take out the plug and use hair dryer to warm blow dry, and use dry tissue to dry the plug cable head, this will eliminate your spark plug spark up problem.

 

For water trap in the fuel tank, get a bottle of STP fuel treatment(for removing water) from petrol kiosk cost $6.50, pour in 50ml/ 5 full caps into the tank and travel non-stop on any highway for min. 50km during sunny day, your problem will solve.

 

There is a reason that I told u not to mess with your carb(anything related to carb) for a better fuel efficiency and undisturb performance, unless u have clocked mileage of more then 50,000km encounter chokage or problem that require service of the carb.

 

Why spend money when u can solve all at min cost? :confused:

 

I m not sure about other's bike, but am dead sure about the conditon of your bike. :smile:

http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/bike/enduro/r1200gsa/media/overview_my_2012/340x230_r1200gsa_5.jpg

 

 

Adventures complete your life......

Posted
The way I saw u left the bike in the rain at your block, I knew it gonna be problem.

well, i thought only italian bikes were prone to water related problems, guess i was wrong about that. rest assured i will be making full use of my bike cover now :sian:

 

thanks for your advice, will keep them in mind

Posted

Check for the plug cap seal. Might be faulty, resulting in water entering the plug.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1140039.jpghttp://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/SV650_photos/P1130008.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by adrianslacker@Jul 28 2005, 06:36 PM

well, i thought only italian bikes were prone to water related problems, guess i was wrong about that. rest assured i will be making full use of my bike cover now :sian:

 

thanks for your advice, will keep them in mind

Well, I had no such problem during my ownership.

 

But heard from many people in states that, must avoid parking outside over night if snowing......:confused:

http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/bike/enduro/r1200gsa/media/overview_my_2012/340x230_r1200gsa_5.jpg

 

 

Adventures complete your life......

Posted
Originally posted by Metalfyre@Jul 29 2005, 01:47 AM

my bike no such problems leh...

 

anyway, SV outing next week at Marbella's Cafe @ Perling...anyone?

 

I'll set the date at a later time.

wah~ okok.. give me a head start first...

then after 30 mins then u all go... :cheeky:

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11337/tri_daytona675.jpg

 

counting down again to the final class of license..

 

riding.. freedom.. it comes together..

Posted
Originally posted by hart@Jul 29 2005, 10:37 AM

wah~ okok.. give me a head start first...

then after 30 mins then u all go... :cheeky:

by then u arrived and started eating liao...30 mins...

 

siao ah..

Postman Eating Inc*

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/murano04sfs/38y29ty14.gif

 

http://4gifs.com/gallery/d/155006-1/Mascot_scares_girl.gif

 

Squid defination: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=squid

Posted

hart ->

i think a head start of 15 min will do la!

then they cant even see our tail lights liao

 

Its better to have lived and lost than to never live at all. Live it, the way you want it.

 

 

Posted

haha... so set on when? :smile:

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11337/tri_daytona675.jpg

 

counting down again to the final class of license..

 

riding.. freedom.. it comes together..

Posted

Brakes Review:

 

Lately, I've been experiencing very bad braking performance on the SVS. Symptoms include a very grabby brake and no feel in the lever. (i.e. when you squeeze the lever, you dont feel anything until the brake suddenly bites). Furthermore, the SV400S has 2 piston sliding calipers, which absolutely suck compared to my Cagiva Planet's Brembo 4-pot brakes.

 

So, I took the opportunity to upgrade to DP Supersport HH+ brake pads. They are pricey ($85 a set). Replacement of brake pads was quite a breeze.

 

1. Unbolt the front caliper (Size 14 socket)

2. Remove the old pads

3. Clean up the caliper with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush

4. Use a hard metal object to push the pistons back into the caliper

5. Fit new pads

6. Grease the bolts with lithium grease

7. Re-bolt the caliper to the wheel. (Don't have a torque wrench so I just tightened to a reasonable tightness... shabby I know)

8. Squeeze brake lever a few times to pump the pistons back into contact with rotor

 

In terms of braking power and feel, the brake pad upgrade has improved braking performance and feel by a whole new level. It was a worthwhile purchase and I recommend this form of upgrade to anyone looking for better braking performance.

 

Also, I have to say that the Daytona organic pads I replaced are absolutely sh*t. Don't ever use them.

Posted
Originally posted by Denden@Aug 2 2005, 09:16 AM

How far is Perling? Can I join?

About 18 to 22 km ba...

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11337/tri_daytona675.jpg

 

counting down again to the final class of license..

 

riding.. freedom.. it comes together..

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