which brand of engine oil should S4 use?

[MUSHA]

  Jfor_Jimmy1986 said:

am using motul 300v... Power! Recommended EO! no Regrets.

 

Tested with OWS.. Motul is better in performance and smoothness =)

 

Upzz!

 

I will use 300V when i next change the clutch plates. Actually wanted 300V in my last EO change but bike shop no stock.

[aixin]

I had a pleasant conversation with a FBB S4 biker while on the road just now. His is also using Syn oil @ 20 dollar per bottle kind of brand (no sure which one). His revelaton is 8000 km for each change. Should this oil change [approximate distance of 8000km] a normal guideline for all syn oil in S4. Advice pls.

 

Able to provide the price of Motul and Motul 300v

[Qrisx]

distance is 5000km or 3 months (which ever comes first)

[aixin]

Information to share pertaining to AGIP. Details of dealers can be found in the website.

 

Daren Eng

Director

Evangelitsa Pte Ltd (Authorised Distributor for AGIP)

HP: 90265388

Tel: 64555696

Fax: 64555696

Email: daren@evangelitsa.com

Website: http://www.evangelitsa.com

Address:194 Pandan Loop, #05-28

Pantech Industrial Complex

Singapore 128383

[rookiepong]

Try using LiquiMoly 10w60 or 10w50.. not bad

[Qrisx]

anyone tried BEL RAY???

[Metaphor]

  Qrisx said:

anyone tried BEL RAY???

 

Im trying now... same feeling i had with maxima i believe... nt sure cos i just used it for 500km++

[MUSHA]

  rookiepong said:

Try using LiquiMoly 10w60 or 10w50.. not bad

 

Isn't 60 weight too thick for our bikes?

[racing_tech]

  MUSHA said:

Isn't 60 weight too thick for our bikes?

 

Nope, infact 10w60 liquimoly is lighter than 15w50 for some brand even 10w40 on castrol Check out showroom for promotion package. Cheers

[steel_headz]

I've tried maxima n castrol....

 

The feeling is like the same..... No difference....

 

Cos we r changing n replace wif a new engine oil...... So its not much difference...

 

Depends on individuals...

[Ah Pek]

  Qrisx said:

distance is 5000km or 3 months (which ever comes first)

 

What if one does only 2000km and the 3 months is up?

[steel_headz]

  Ah Pek said:

What if one does only 2000km and the 3 months is up?

 

Ya ah... Quite true ah.... Actually 5000 km rite?

[Qrisx]

which ever earlier lor... if 2000km and 3 months is up still need to change...

 

actually not NEED to change la... that one is at the manual. its BEST to change...

 

I guess air go in and the EO not crispy anymore la...

[steel_headz]

  Qrisx said:

which ever earlier lor... if 2000km and 3 months is up still need to change...

 

actually not NEED to change la... that one is at the manual. its BEST to change...

 

I guess air go in and the EO not crispy anymore la...

 

:lol: :lol:

[Ah Pek]

  Qrisx said:

which ever earlier lor... if 2000km and 3 months is up still need to change...

 

actually not NEED to change la... that one is at the manual. its BEST to change...

 

I guess air go in and the EO not crispy anymore la...

 

....and then you ride 5000K in three weeks..manual say wait for 3 months..oil got no air becuase it been use a lot!..HA!HA!HA! HA!...I think its time to throw away the manual..

[biting_point]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_oil

 

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

there is air in the engine.. just that it's pressurised..

higher rating oil provides better protection but it's "heavier" and will increase FC..

[MUSHA]

  racing_tech said:

Nope, infact 10w60 liquimoly is lighter than 15w50 for some brand even 10w40 on castrol Check out showroom for promotion package. Cheers

 

I am confused. If the Liquimoly's 60 is lighter than some 50 or even 40, then would people believe in their adoption of the international standards???

[racing_tech]

  MUSHA said:

I am confused. If the Liquimoly's 60 is lighter than some 50 or even 40, then would people believe in their adoption of the international standards???

 

don have to confuse, ask those that have use 10w50 & 10w60 which i believe they have try other brand EO before commenting on liquimoly.

[MUSHA]

  racing_tech said:

don have to confuse, ask those that have use 10w50 & 10w60 which i believe they have try other brand EO before commenting on liquimoly.

 

So it's the "feel" u r talking about here? So in terms of viscosity, Liquimoly is still thicker, when it is 60 weight, rite?

[racing_tech]

  MUSHA said:

So it's the "feel" u r talking about here? So in terms of viscosity, Liquimoly is still thicker, when it is 60 weight, rite?

 

..... 60 refer to higher temperature it can withstand compare to 40-50. we have other brand in showroom, come down & compare the oil u will know what i mean. Every brand have their own claim if advertising claim is what you are looking at then i think you really miss out alot. See to believe

 

  kkz said:

hi elson, thanks for recommend mi this engine oil. after i change , i feel more quiet and smooth riding. even the gear change also smooth. maybe issit due to i too long nv change engine oil haha... anyways thanks i will use it again!!

haojie , ninja 636

  BigDogs said:

Hey elson, wah the liquimoly EO and the MOS² Anti-Friction engine treatment damn shiok man bro, very smoothe acceleration and when i change gear last time got the hard *TAK* when move into 2nd gear now dun have its so so smoothe like baby backside hahahha thx man bro will grab spark plugs from you soon

  guwakzai said:

Since u told me try the anti friction thing then good leave some comments...gd thing must share..if no good then i would not be typing this now!

 

MOS2 anti friction thing is GOOD MAN...instant effect...! the Jerky feeling greatly reduced! And regarding the knocking sound also not so loud already after the EO change 4 days ago...Confirm can feel smoother..

 

Feel like pouring the whole lot in man! GOOD!

Must buy 1 bottle liao!

 

This 1 for CAR can use???

  angeldogleslie said:

Guys, its not all talk. Recently bought my VFR800 and went down to Equipment Extreme. ALF and Elson, had been of great assistance, great service who will do all they can to meet the customer's requirements by customising each of their "prescription" to each bike and customer.

 

Anyway back to the topic, after hearing all the talk on this Liquid Moly EO, i decided to try it for myself. Gave my bike a fresh injection of MO2 Anti Friction fluid plus 4 bottles of 10w50 Liquid Moly EO for my aging VFR.

 

After the change, boy could you feel the difference. It literally left me jaw-dropped. Engine is smooth to the core, and it is never the same.

 

Essentially, Alf and Elson were great and took great pains to explain stuff to a newbie like me, most importantly, pricing of their package is competitive and even cheaper than certain engine oils.

 

Equipment Extreme: A genuine, 1 Stop Solution to all your bike demands.

 

To those who have yet to try this out, i urge you guys you give it a shot. Its radical and i'm sure the change/difference is not placebo.

 

Thanks Elson and Alf.

 

For more detail refer showroom

[MUSHA]

  racing_tech said:

..... 60 refer to higher temperature it can withstand compare to 40-50. we have other brand in showroom, come down & compare the oil u will know what i mean. Every brand have their own claim if advertising claim is what you are looking at then i think you really miss out alot. See to believe

 

 

 

 

 

 

For more detail refer showroom

 

I don't track, I guess I don't need a 60 oil. I have been using 40 all these while and it is really light on my wallet for petrol too. Tks!

[aixin]

IMO, it depends on bike's engine condition for type of (W) engine oil, and the technical details above is purely on engine oil quality and I think all production of eo under proper scrutiny and supervision are serving good intended purpose.

For more added comfort & smoothness, under expert advice - product X-1R that u may consider adding. It is also in line with the above clarification to augment oil quality for more protection...

 

http://www.x1r.com/testimonials.htm

 

Videoclip for Motorcycle using X-1R

http://www.x1r.com/videoclips11.htm

[aixin]

A piece of information for consideration

 

Please refer to Oil Filter Alternatives [http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oilfilter.htm] - Honda Motorcycles also by Mike Guillory for a comprehensive review of various oil filters. Web Master's Note

The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride.

 

All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.

 

My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.

Castrol RX Super 15w40

Chevron Delo 400 15w40

Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40

Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40

Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40

Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)

SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40

Valvoline All Fleet 15w40

Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40

Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection

 

For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

 

A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change.

Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.

There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.

Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

 

Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.

 

It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.

 

It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

 

Real World Test Results

Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.

[DeNgFoNg]

have tried the OWS 900 engine oil recently after my friends recommendation, i find that the gear changing is more smooth & also during high rev on my ride compare to maxima extra 4T 15w50 i have used previously on my spec III ride. Price wise also same, think i will stick to OWS products