Yamaha YZF-R6

[guangwei]

are the local r6 millage meter in km or miles unit? was thinking that since singapore's r6 are european batch, what the millage meters shows could be in fact KM and not miles.

 

what are the sign of the need of valve clearance? im starting to think my idling got some tickling sound at the engine that goes aways when i rev up. is that normal?

Edited March 1, 2015 by guangwei

[Blueblood]

are the local r6 millage meter in km or miles unit? was thinking that since singapore's r6 are european batch, what the millage meters shows could be in fact KM and not miles.

 

what are the sign of the need of valve clearance? im starting to think my idling got some tickling sound at the engine that goes aways when i rev up. is that normal?

 

KM n miles r interchangeable. valve clearance is abt 40k km.

[guangwei]

KM n miles r interchangeable. valve clearance is abt 40k km.

 

Ok thanks, looked into manual.

 

Unforutnately, previous owner used 15k km only, never valve clearance before. donno previous previous owner also cus bought from shop T_T

Edited March 2, 2015 by guangwei

[guangwei]

guess i will just overhaul the bike. how much will it cost anyone?

[Blueblood]

guess i will just overhaul the bike. how much will it cost anyone?

 

depend on wat u include in the package n which shop u goes to.

[Rom]

guess i will just overhaul the bike. how much will it cost anyone?

 

Normally 4 stroke bikes last quite long. What's your mileage. My 05 r6 has 124000km still going strong. Just done valve clearance, cam chain guides and tensioner @ 110000km.

[Blueblood]

Normally 4 stroke bikes last quite long. What's your mileage. My 05 r6 has 124000km still going strong. Just done valve clearance, cam chain guides and tensioner @ 110000km.

 

u r e blue r6 with LV exhaust at PG?

[guangwei]

depend on wat u include in the package n which shop u goes to.

 

top overhaul i will do

[guangwei]

Normally 4 stroke bikes last quite long. What's your mileage. My 05 r6 has 124000km still going strong. Just done valve clearance, cam chain guides and tensioner @ 110000km.

 

My millage just passed 100k, 100075 now. Bought at 99992.

Dont know the second valve clearance got skip anot. but 100% sure previous owner nvr did any valve clearnce or major engine service when he bought it at about 83k km. Also donno first valve clearance at 42k got do anot. Cus previous owner bought from bike shop.

 

Also donno the chain tensioner is it the stock one that came with the bikes 8 years ago or not :X

 

Anyway here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8ysmUJfnVA

 

Also cam chain guides, cam chain tensioners, and timing chain tensioner are all different things, that must be changed frequently at ard every 20k+ km?

Edited March 3, 2015 by guangwei

[Rom]

My millage just passed 100k, 100075 now. Bought at 99992.

Dont know the second valve clearance got skip anot. but 100% sure previous owner nvr did any valve clearnce or major engine service when he bought it at about 83k km. Also donno first valve clearance at 42k got do anot. Cus previous owner bought from bike shop.

 

Also donno the chain tensioner is it the stock one that came with the bikes 8 years ago or not :X

 

Anyway here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8ysmUJfnVA

 

Also cam chain guides, cam chain tensioners, and timing chain tensioner are all different things, that must be changed frequently at ard every 20k+ km?

 

Your bike making the same type of noise as mine. I ask around and forumers from other sites says its normal. Initially I thought it was the valves but upon further research it was actually the auto cam chain tensioner. I replaced that with a manual one.... Which is a mistake....

 

The bike did run quieter but at the expense of the cam chain guide. Found bits of whats left of the guides when changing the oil due to overtightened tensioner (the cam chain expends when engine is warm, didn't take that into account).

 

Send it to the workshop to replace all cam chain guides (since they are probably worn down anyways) while the top half of the engine is opened asked them set the valve clearance from race back to stock, servicing and fit a new stock tensioner. Cost me roughly about $1000. just prepare to forkout around $1500. They are bound to find something wrong with the bike. I recommend you to do this if you plan to keep the bike long. Another thing to ask them to check is the ignition coils (my bike response feel so much more immediate once i got it changed. Not cheap though).

 

Terminology: -Cam chain/ Timing Chain= same thing loops around your intake and exhaust cams to the crank shaft. Normally these should last forever provided engine oil changed regularly.

-Cam chain guides = these are perishable made from plastic and kevlar compound (correct me if i'm wrong), its the part where the cam chain comes into contact with.

-Cam chain tensioner = Prone to failure. Some suggest these to be replace every 10k but to me replace them when the bike becomes noisy. Why? The stock auto tensioner that comes with the bike is spring loaded, so after years of use the spring will no longer exert the same amount of force to the cam chain in order to work properly. In other words, when you put load on the engine (quick acceleration/ deceleration) it might cause the cam chain to slacken and cause your cams to jump out gear and your engine explodes (haha...)

[guangwei]

Your bike making the same type of noise as mine. I ask around and forumers from other sites says its normal. Initially I thought it was the valves but upon further research it was actually the auto cam chain tensioner. I replaced that with a manual one.... Which is a mistake....

 

The bike did run quieter but at the expense of the cam chain guide. Found bits of whats left of the guides when changing the oil due to overtightened tensioner (the cam chain expends when engine is warm, didn't take that into account).

 

Send it to the workshop to replace all cam chain guides (since they are probably worn down anyways) while the top half of the engine is opened asked them set the valve clearance from race back to stock, servicing and fit a new stock tensioner. Cost me roughly about $1000. just prepare to forkout around $1500. They are bound to find something wrong with the bike. I recommend you to do this if you plan to keep the bike long. Another thing to ask them to check is the ignition coils (my bike response feel so much more immediate once i got it changed. Not cheap though).

 

Terminology: -Cam chain/ Timing Chain= same thing loops around your intake and exhaust cams to the crank shaft. Normally these should last forever provided engine oil changed regularly.

-Cam chain guides = these are perishable made from plastic and kevlar compound (correct me if i'm wrong), its the part where the cam chain comes into contact with.

-Cam chain tensioner = Prone to failure. Some suggest these to be replace every 10k but to me replace them when the bike becomes noisy. Why? The stock auto tensioner that comes with the bike is spring loaded, so after years of use the spring will no longer exert the same amount of force to the cam chain in order to work properly. In other words, when you put load on the engine (quick acceleration/ deceleration) it might cause the cam chain to slacken and cause your cams to jump out gear and your engine explodes (haha...)

 

Why would you not keep to the manual Cam chain tensioner? Is it better than the stock one anot? Would the manual cam chain tensioner works better had you not overtightened it.

 

Also did you DIY the Cam chain tensioner? Which ended up in losing ur cam chain guide as well?

 

Also your terminology education is very useful thanks!

And you spent 1k to do the stuff, can do top overhaul already.. <_>

[Rom]

1k plus some other repairs most of it is labour cost to be honest so if you want to do an overhaul then ask them to do this too, save you the trouble to dissemble the engine again.

 

Manual one is better (one time purchase), however, you would have to keep checking the tensioner just in case the locking nut on it backed off and the tension is correct. Yup I did diy the manual tensioner. To me too much of a hastle. Took me a few months to get the feel for the correct amount of tension. Suggest to get the shop to do it for you if you intend to switch to manual tensioner. But then again, I don't have any good experience with shops so I dont trust them.

 

So decisions, decisions... Stock auto cam chain tensioner approx $120 which need to be replace every 10-20k or manual tensioner $60-&90 (online) but need extra care and attention.

[Rom]

u r e blue r6 with LV exhaust at PG?

 

How you know. haha... Bloody hell went off at the last corner. Pushed the front too hard. Oil pump case cracked leaked oil on the track. Paiseh...

Got my bike up and running again today. $100 DIY repair job:cool:

 

Couldn't say the same to my leathers. Tarmac tore through my gloves. My Rs taichi leathers think unsalvageble. Caught the vid on camera too.

Edited March 3, 2015 by Rom

[guangwei]

1k plus some other repairs most of it is labour cost to be honest so if you want to do an overhaul then ask them to do this too, save you the trouble to dissemble the engine again.

 

Manual one is better (one time purchase), however, you would have to keep checking the tensioner just in case the locking nut on it backed off and the tension is correct. Yup I did diy the manual tensioner. To me too much of a hastle. Took me a few months to get the feel for the correct amount of tension. Suggest to get the shop to do it for you if you intend to switch to manual tensioner. But then again, I don't have any good experience with shops so I dont trust them.

 

So decisions, decisions... Stock auto cam chain tensioner approx $120 which need to be replace every 10-20k or manual tensioner $60-&90 (online) but need extra care and attention.

 

I see all the figure you pull out I kind of ball shrinked. I think I change to a stock auto cam chain tensioner and valve clearance first see if it fix prob, then save up money do the rest next year...

[Rom]

Try the auto tensioner first. They dont have to open up the engine. Its on the right side just above the clutch cover.

[guangwei]

Try the auto tensioner first. They dont have to open up the engine. Its on the right side just above the clutch cover.

 

Is it the area where the tick sound is the loudest as in shown in the video?

 

Where did you learn to DIY yourself?

[Rom]

Is it the area where the tick sound is the loudest as in shown in the video?

 

Where did you learn to DIY yourself?

 

Yes right hand side of the engine.

 

Did alot of research online, asked stupid questions, and see how the mechanic do it (gotta thank Hua Chin workshop for that). Youtube videos helped too. And of course having a shitty bike.

 

If you intend on DIY first step is to determine how big a job is it going to be try changing the oil first its a good baby's step. Secondly, tools. Anything that got anything to do with the internals of the engine better have some one to do it cos everything is tightened to specific rating so you need a torque wrench for that. NO RIGHT TOOLS DONT DO. Everything else is finger tightened then put about 1/4 of a turn. Too much you'll stripped the thread or worst crack the aluminum parts of the engine.eg me overtighening drain plug with a torque wrench then cracking the oil sump.

[Blueblood]

How you know. haha... Bloody hell went off at the last corner. Pushed the front too hard. Oil pump case cracked leaked oil on the track. Paiseh...

Got my bike up and running again today. $100 DIY repair job:cool:

 

Couldn't say the same to my leathers. Tarmac tore through my gloves. My Rs taichi leathers think unsalvageble. Caught the vid on camera too.

 

gd riding but wrong choice of tyres for track. better get engine covers n proper protection gears

[Rom]

gd riding but wrong choice of tyres for track. better get engine covers n proper protection gears

 

Bridgstone s20 is good enough for me. Blame myself for the fall. Was chasing the faster guys & learning a different line.

[Blueblood]

Bridgstone s20 is good enough for me. Blame myself for the fall. Was chasing the faster guys & learning a different line.

 

btw, wat gloves were u using

[Rom]

btw, wat gloves were u using

 

Komine. Not sure exactly what model.

[Blueblood]

Komine. Not sure exactly what model.

 

same as my previous glove.

[guangwei]

Your bike making the same type of noise as mine. I ask around and forumers from other sites says its normal. Initially I thought it was the valves but upon further research it was actually the auto cam chain tensioner. I replaced that with a manual one.... Which is a mistake....

 

The bike did run quieter but at the expense of the cam chain guide. Found bits of whats left of the guides when changing the oil due to overtightened tensioner (the cam chain expends when engine is warm, didn't take that into account).

 

Send it to the workshop to replace all cam chain guides (since they are probably worn down anyways) while the top half of the engine is opened asked them set the valve clearance from race back to stock, servicing and fit a new stock tensioner. Cost me roughly about $1000. just prepare to forkout around $1500. They are bound to find something wrong with the bike. I recommend you to do this if you plan to keep the bike long. Another thing to ask them to check is the ignition coils (my bike response feel so much more immediate once i got it changed. Not cheap though).

 

Terminology: -Cam chain/ Timing Chain= same thing loops around your intake and exhaust cams to the crank shaft. Normally these should last forever provided engine oil changed regularly.

-Cam chain guides = these are perishable made from plastic and kevlar compound (correct me if i'm wrong), its the part where the cam chain comes into contact with.

-Cam chain tensioner = Prone to failure. Some suggest these to be replace every 10k but to me replace them when the bike becomes noisy. Why? The stock auto tensioner that comes with the bike is spring loaded, so after years of use the spring will no longer exert the same amount of force to the cam chain in order to work properly. In other words, when you put load on the engine (quick acceleration/ deceleration) it might cause the cam chain to slacken and cause your cams to jump out gear and your engine explodes (haha...)

Bro, whats are the symptom you noticed when your cam chain guide failed?

You mean you didnt realise anything wrong until you drain your engine oils and found bits of what was the cam chain guides coming out along?

[Rom]

Bro, whats are the symptom you noticed when your cam chain guide failed?

You mean you didnt realise anything wrong until you drain your engine oils and found bits of what was the cam chain guides coming out along?

 

Yup bike didn't feel strange or emit strange noise. Only found out after I found bits of plastic when changing the oil.

[guangwei]

i think too much haha

Edited March 5, 2015 by guangwei