How to maintain White colour

[jytheorem]

Wonder if any of u guys have a special formulae to maintaining the white tone of your bike??

[zell_teo]

don think got special formu ba.. i think is don park ur under the sunlight for too long.. meaning is either cover the bike everytime or park in mscp... although very mafan

[xiaowen]

wash every week doesn't help much. if u wan white. respray every 2 year can liao.

[kurarensu]

wash ur bike wif CIF.. den shampoo it cif make ur bike whiter.. if ur bike got black/dark color tone due to black oil..

 

den wax it with those autoglym(dono how spell) stuffs.. den finish liao touch up wif another type of wax for shining finish.. turtle wax shld be ok i guess.. or the black color bottle one.. i think call black magic or something lidat =)

 

best is still dun expose to sunlight bah i guess.. cos it will change the tone of color overtime..

[ramen71]

avoid rain,sunshine and always cover ur bike..

[jytheorem]

wash ur bike wif CIF.. den shampoo it cif make ur bike whiter.. if ur bike got black/dark color tone due to black oil..

 

den wax it with those autoglym(dono how spell) stuffs.. den finish liao touch up wif another type of wax for shining finish.. turtle wax shld be ok i guess.. or the black color bottle one.. i think call black magic or something lidat =)

 

best is still dun expose to sunlight bah i guess.. cos it will change the tone of color overtime..

 

CIF?? Heard bout this bout 3 years ago from one of my colleague.. But din actually try. Anyone actually tried??

[kurarensu]

cif is the dish washing liquid in case u guys aint sure of it.. it's a yellow-greenish bottle.. =) got white color oso but get the yellowish bottle cos got lemon smell and the lemon can help to remove some of those stubborn stains.. =)

 

eg u use soap/petrol wipe the stain on ur white fairing still cant work u try use a cloth dip some cif den wipe it.. try it wif the surface dry.. den if cant let the cloth damp ABIT.. den try.. most of the time shld be able to remove unless it's a deep scratch loh..

[kish_garfield]

Wipe with water everyday...

[Wayang]

i'm ridin a white bike now.. personally i'm not sure wat is the actual cause of yellowin but my guess is long term exposure to the sun.. so wat i do is to cover my bike when i'm not ridin it..

[CoStar]

i think u mean JIF not cif.

[apitBIOL]

i think u mean JIF not cif.

 

spot on.

[josephsbs]

wash ur bike wif CIF.. den shampoo it cif make ur bike whiter.. if ur bike got black/dark color tone due to black oil..

 

den wax it with those autoglym(dono how spell) stuffs.. den finish liao touch up wif another type of wax for shining finish.. turtle wax shld be ok i guess.. or the black color bottle one.. i think call black magic or something lidat =)

 

best is still dun expose to sunlight bah i guess.. cos it will change the tone of color overtime..

never use dish-washing detergent on your paintwork, especially JIF. bikes/cars paintwork has a layer of protective lacquer over the color and also for gloss. the lacquer's gloss can be damaged by the chemicals in common dish washing detergents. that is why pp use car wash solutions that are non-offensive to the lacquer, many also comes with wax content for a glossy finish.

 

if you use GIF, the powdery white fluid will initially cause scratches on the lacquer and finally "sand off" the glossy layer on prolonged use. when gloss layer gone, you can get white but no more gloss. without that layer, dirt and grime can easily make camp on your "naked" paintwork. even with lots of waxing, paintwork is still pretty much naked as wax layers are too thin and they fade off pretty fast under sunlight, rain and oxidation.

 

you can do a mini-experiment using GIF to confirm this using a stainless steel pot (as if the shining surface is your paintwork). use GIF to "polish" the surface (circular or straight motion also can) and after washing it off, you should be able to see many fine scratches in the direction of your polishing. you can also pour some GIF onto your fingers and rub it against each other... it will feel powdery. how i know? i've used GIF for >10 years in my kitchen to clean off stubborn stains on my pots and pans.

 

but if lacquer gloss layer is already gone, then don't bother... since nothing to protect liow mah

[Thailia]

Best is not to use any washing solution on your bike unless its so dirty and horrific. Use water and soft sponge to wash, bits of JIF is only allow to use on my tyres and rims.

 

My bike is pearl white and chromed, so in order to maintain the white and NO RUST, every two wk or one wk then bathe my "bf" every week, after every ride from work, will use my chamois to wipe it clean all over b4 i cover my bike then head home.

 

No need special forumla But i uses Turtle Wax brand this $46bucks ice glaze wax solution and one shine spray... heee.... for my own luxury...

[josephsbs]

i'm ridin a white bike now.. personally i'm not sure wat is the actual cause of yellowin but my guess is long term exposure to the sun.. so wat i do is to cover my bike when i'm not ridin it..

this shouldn't happen to a new bike's white paintwork, unless bike hasn't been washed for quite some time and is parked exposed to rain-n-shine. bike is a few years old and not new paintwork?

 

suggest you first check the "gloss" layer of the paintwork. is it yellowish but still glossy and smooth/waxy? or is it yellowish with no gloss and surface feels like paper (not waxy). do not use GIF!!! use a proper cut compound & polish from care care product brands such as Turtle, Kitten, Kit, etc.

 

yellow to white colour:

e.g. Kitten Cutting Compound, Kit Scratch Out, Turtle Rubbing Compound, etc.

usually made of micro-abrasive particles designed to "cut" or grind away the dull, weathered, oxidised surfaces or stubborn stains

Caution: Not to be used on paintwork in good condition, or on newer paintwork with metallic paint or clear coat finishes

 

http://www.kittencarcare.com.au/media/products/cutting_compound.gifhttp://www.kitwax.com/assets/images/products/kitScratchOut.jpghttp://www.turtlewax.com/img/products/pd_tw_rubbingcompound.jpg

 

to protect cleaned white surface and for shine:

e.g. kitten Polishing Wax, Kit Carnauba Wax, Turtle Super Hard Shell, etc.

designed to form a protective shining layer over the cleaned surface, some contains teflon, carnauba wax, etc to sustain shine over a longer period

http://www.kittencarcare.com.au/media/products/liquid_polishing_wax.gifhttp://www.kitwax.com/assets/images/products/kitCarnaubaWax.jpghttp://www.turtlewax.com/img/products/pd_tw_superhardshell.jpg

 

 

after polishing:

clean the bike often enough such that the white surfaces do not stain.

 

good luck for your polishing

 

[jytheorem]

I used to use the turtle wax one, but somehow when it dried up too much when its left with only the sides of the base...

I recently bought the HiGlaze88, and had just applied it on my White ST.

Real great shine!! But wonder if it is as weather resistant as mentioned on the cover of the bottle.

[zell_teo]

i was thinking mayb u can install the race shield?? cause i heard it wil block off UV.. so mayb u can try checking it out ?

[jytheorem]

Raceshield kinda expensive...

Went to see their catalogue, for ST11 panniers alone already $200+..

More XX than bringing them for a respray

[bapecraze]

so far still no "real" comments on how to prevent the white from turning Yellowish ??

[zell_teo]

Raceshield kinda expensive...

Went to see their catalogue, for ST11 panniers alone already $200+..

More XX than bringing them for a respray

 

SO EXP ah.. i don know it is so exp sia... if side pannier 200+ then i think the tank itself also ard that price le.. if whole bike smelly smelly 1k

[jytheorem]

ya lor.. $XXX...

Wondering if 3M has some similar technology that is more economical

[josephsbs]

so far still no "real" comments on how to prevent the white from turning Yellowish ??

there is no way to prevent white paintwork from turning yellowish over time due to "anti-white" factors such as dirt/impurities in the air, moisture, UV and oxidation process. worse when bike is running on the road where sand/dust particles blast the white surfaces and oil particles from exhaust sticks around. even when bike is parked, oxidation takes place and the upper layers of your nice white paintwork slowly looses its gloss and starts to turn yellow. i.e. its only a matter of time... fast if not cared for, slow if cleaning and protection is given. e.g. if bike is exposed under rain n sun (moisture, oxygen, UV & heat), oxidation takes place at a faster rate... turn yellow faster lor

 

apart from parking at MSCP and/or covering the bike, one way to prolong whiteness is to create a protective shell by coating the cleaned surface with wax or polish. dirt/grime now sticks on outer layer of wax instead of paintwork and could be easily polished away to restore whiteness. modern polishes comes with advanced formulae such as teflon (well known for its non-stick properties), silicon, etc. that can protect the surfaces over longer periods... waxing/polishing is not only for shine. when oxidation or stubborn stains come into play, we can use cutting compounds (with micro-abrasive particles) to grind away the dull weathered, oxidised surfaces or stubborn stains, then re-coat the surface with wax/polish again but note that excessive use of cutting compound is not recommended.

 

DO NOT USE GIF OR DISH/CLOTHE WASHING DETERGENTS.

 

hope these can help u understand the chemistry behind the yellowing process and how to slow it down

[AR2 Performance]

Raceshield kinda expensive...

Went to see their catalogue, for ST11 panniers alone already $200+..

More XX than bringing them for a respray

 

The price varies with amount of material used. The ST13 panniers cover the side & the top x2 for both side. The amount is almost equivalent if not even larger than a whole front cowl.

 

A re-pray often achieves the same visual quality but not often the reliability quality. As an ex-R&D engineer dealing with from concept->design->quality->production, plating/painting/finishing process is one of the most difficult stage to pass in post production. Why? These are a few highly stringent quality criterias to meet :-

 

1. Salt test

2. Spray test

3. Cross cut test

4. Peel test (before & after the above 3 items)

 

Anyone of them is NC in QC stage = no production. This is pretty standard for most products that land on consumer hand.

 

Even after production, every lot will have a small sample taken out (this is not only for paint QC.. but all aspects of a quality product), the above stringent test is carried out.

 

In short, OEM paint quality is not easily replicated in terms of quality. I have personally had respray jobs on FZR150, CBR400RR-J, VFR panniers. 3 months the paints chipped of from commuting, track & tours.

 

 

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Brand new local paintjob (its local coz its not OEM front cowl)

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/temp/r6 wallpaper 06.jpg

 

 

6 months later (2 track sessions, 3 mersings rides, 1 cameron trip)

 

http://www.ar2performance.com/forums/chips01.jpg

 

its worst now....

[AR2 Performance]

SO EXP ah.. i don know it is so exp sia... if side pannier 200+ then i think the tank itself also ard that price le.. if whole bike smelly smelly 1k

 

 

Yes... RACEshield is tested & proven to preserve the your hefty investments from scarring chipping & pitting. 100% aliphatic urethane thats exhibits the high abrasion & strength qualities with high gloss+clarity at 150 micron (0.1524mm), is the current solution to the conventional 2~3mm thick acrylic (urethane vs acrylic ... the former is of higher scratch/abrasion properties in the plastic family) protection. Thats where the $$ is going into.

 

Tank itself is almost 1/2 the price of the panniers as the material is used. S$110 including installation.

 

 

Thats is why we recommend many users to not to put on the pillion area unless there is frequent pillion, or "leg cannot raise high enough" rider syndrome. i.e. self-induced shoe scratch.

[AR2 Performance]

ya lor.. $XXX...

Wondering if 3M has some similar technology that is more economical

 

Yesh 3M has something similar (300 micron). Same usage, but of different material qualities. If you can get your hands on it, I can give you a free sample to compare & verdict . What you will notice the difference is :-

 

1. Top finishing & texture

2. Thickness

3. Strength

4. Resistant to yellowing.

5. Handcut

6. Most importantly.. price...

[zell_teo]

Yes... RACEshield is tested & proven to preserve the your hefty investments from scarring chipping & pitting. 100% aliphatic urethane thats exhibits the high abrasion & strength qualities with high gloss+clarity at 150 micron (0.1524mm), is the current solution to the conventional 2~3mm thick acrylic (urethane vs acrylic ... the former is of higher scratch/abrasion properties in the plastic family) protection. Thats where the $$ is going into.

 

Tank itself is almost 1/2 the price of the panniers as the material is used. S$110 including installation.

 

 

Thats is why we recommend many users to not to put on the pillion area unless there is frequent pillion, or "leg cannot raise high enough" rider syndrome. i.e. self-induced shoe scratch.

 

thanks for the explaination.... .... but isnt it better to do the whole bike? then like that no need to wash and wax the painwork of the bike le??