<Q&A> SBF Super Four Live Q&A Thread

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

Yes and strongly recommended, ESPECIALLY older bikes...you don't need to buy those so call voltage stablizer...unless you are racing and need every inch of amp just to be Kia_soo. I did my own grounding...wire type and gauges sizes and the grounding location to be connected are important for effective grounding.

 

hey ah pek,

 

so grounding helps with older bikes? which part of the bike would you recommend to ground to? like from where to where... thanks..

[YAD]

hi guys..wat is the rear tyre profile for pb1 ?

[MonoWorld]

i washed and tuned my carb at Combine. Damn! Ah Kiong's workmanship is top-notch. unbelievable! Bike very smooth now. Worth every penny.

 

The problem is gone too. One good thing abt him, he is not like those typical motodiam mechs where he says "change this, change that". He said my spark plug still good. clutch plate dun have to worry, b4 go touring change tyre. the rest still good. Treated him kopi for the efforts.

[Ah Pek]

which part of the bike would you recommend to ground to? like from where to where...

 

Old bike tend to have corrosion..meaning rust etc..and this can become "resistive" and act as "load" to your battery..it actually does trickle drain your battery overnite...thus your rectifier works harder the next day....LOL!

 

Okay..when you get the so call "grounding wires" make sure they are made of very fine copper wire (got silver better but very expensive and hard to find) binded together to form bigger strand by itself...you can see it thru the wire cut section that there is a few strands and each is made up of many many find copper strands. The finer the individer wire of each strand the better the conductivity. They are also call "power cable" and is use for grounding image frequency interference. Make sure you done buy one those that has a aluminum foil (suppose to act as frequeny screening but not true) wrapped throughout the cable..must see real wires. The ppl who made this type do not want you to see the wire get oxides as they are of poorer quaility.

 

Ok..ground point..get a grounding plate if possible..like one in and 4 to 6 out. You can find this in Hi-fi audio shop and those that use for car audio grounding. If not..save money and out source a good metal plate (preferably rust resistance) that allow you to screw all your earthing to one common point.

 

Have your battery -ve point connected to this common plate and the the rest running to : 1) middle portion of your engine cyclinder (there's a nut that tigten your coolant chrome like tube to the engine block) and have another wire jumper to the earth point of your spark plug step up coil unit (have to take out fuel tank to access it). Do the same for the other side. Not to worry about having form a loop as the bolt mouthing form one step coil to the other one otherside act as a "connection" and also the engine block water jacket as a solid common ground. This is good enough but if you have enough cable run..you may one to jumper the chassis ground (frame to frame) via the use of two bolts, one each side..that olds your 'storage plastic box assembly..where your batter sits in). You may have to scrape the paint work off (just around the area where the bolt tighten) and sand the under surface of the bolt. Just one wire from these bolts to the common plate be sufficient.

 

Though its idel to have the alternator grounded to truth earth (battery -ve and chassis) not necessary lah..but if you want just have another wire bolted on to the crank case and jumper to the other end. Also Vtec and non vtec are different..Vtec has extra bolt (smaller one) on their cyclinder top cover which I see mostly those mototiam use..that one no need lah as the spark plug body is actually on the second segment of the block and the water (where the coolant flows) jacket is olehdee a ground conductor.

 

Ok..test ride your bike and see how much smoother it is now and also that your lights are brighter. if you ahve a multimeter..set to "continunity" mode and proper connectivity. Also..set to low voltage reading mode and have your battery +ve measure across any of the ground point to see if there is any voltage reading..should have nothing.

 

All this work should give a better truth earth which also give better spark firing voltage and last but not least..off load rectifier (as there is less charging) and overnite batter drain...have fun

 

Type so much..plse pardon any typo error.

[johndoe]

hi! there's so many mototiams around, anyone has recommendation which shop to get an s4 frm(instalments)? intending to trade in my sp too. pm will be gd. cheers!

[Ah Pek]

which shop to get an s4 frm(instalments)?

 

I thought most shop does that..let you purchase installment. if you are in AMK area or North..Ban Hong got..they are related to Bike Production.

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

Old bike tend to have corrosion..meaning rust etc..and this can become "resistive" and act as "load" to your battery..it actually does trickle drain your battery overnite...thus your rectifier works harder the next day....LOL!

 

Okay..when you get the so call "grounding wires" make sure they are made of very fine copper wire (got silver better but very expensive and hard to find) binded together to form bigger strand by itself...you can see it thru the wire cut section that there is a few strands and each is made up of many many find copper strands. The finer the individer wire of each strand the better the conductivity. They are also call "power cable" and is use for grounding image frequency interference. Make sure you done buy one those that has a aluminum foil (suppose to act as frequeny screening but not true) wrapped throughout the cable..must see real wires. The ppl who made this type do not want you to see the wire get oxides as they are of poorer quaility.

 

Ok..ground point..get a grounding plate if possible..like one in and 4 to 6 out. You can find this in Hi-fi audio shop and those that use for car audio grounding. If not..save money and out source a good metal plate (preferably rust resistance) that allow you to screw all your earthing to one common point.

 

Have your battery -ve point connected to this common plate and the the rest running to : 1) middle portion of your engine cyclinder (there's a nut that tigten your coolant chrome like tube to the engine block) and have another wire jumper to the earth point of your spark plug step up coil unit (have to take out fuel tank to access it). Do the same for the other side. Not to worry about having form a loop as the bolt mouthing form one step coil to the other one otherside act as a "connection" and also the engine block water jacket as a solid common ground. This is good enough but if you have enough cable run..you may one to jumper the chassis ground (frame to frame) via the use of two bolts, one each side..that olds your 'storage plastic box assembly..where your batter sits in). You may have to scrape the paint work off (just around the area where the bolt tighten) and sand the under surface of the bolt. Just one wire from these bolts to the common plate be sufficient.

 

Though its idel to have the alternator grounded to truth earth (battery -ve and chassis) not necessary lah..but if you want just have another wire bolted on to the crank case and jumper to the other end. Also Vtec and non vtec are different..Vtec has extra bolt (smaller one) on their cyclinder top cover which I see mostly those mototiam use..that one no need lah as the spark plug body is actually on the second segment of the block and the water (where the coolant flows) jacket is olehdee a ground conductor.

 

Ok..test ride your bike and see how much smoother it is now and also that your lights are brighter. if you ahve a multimeter..set to "continunity" mode and proper connectivity. Also..set to low voltage reading mode and have your battery +ve measure across any of the ground point to see if there is any voltage reading..should have nothing.

 

All this work should give a better truth earth which also give better spark firing voltage and last but not least..off load rectifier (as there is less charging) and overnite batter drain...have fun

 

Type so much..plse pardon any typo error.

 

 

thanks.. xiexie...

good elaboration. even if i do not understand fully, appreciate your efforts man..=]

[Ah Pek]

thanks.. xiexie...

good elaboration. even if i do not understand fully, appreciate your efforts man..=]

 

It really works. I tried those so call "voltage stabliser" and find that it does little because the "hold on charge" still get drained by the resisitive load for old bikes due to minor corrosion here and there.

 

When I tested with them stabliser stuff after grounding...it felt jsut as good, in fact better as the bike was more responsive..freaking smooth (like fuel premix with 2-t like that)..same goes for my other smaller Honda XR200.

 

If you have the voltage stabliser..it makes things a tad better.

[dirtbikes]

It really works. I tried those so call "voltage stabliser" and find that it does little because the "hold on charge" still get drained by the resisitive load for old bikes due to minor corrosion here and there.

 

When I tested with them stabliser stuff after grounding...it felt jsut as good, in fact better as the bike was more responsive..freaking smooth (like fuel premix with 2-t like that)..same goes for my other smaller Honda XR200.

 

If you have the voltage stabliser..it makes things a tad better.

 

Bt wld grounding affect the batt..wat i read on the s4 manual dat s4 spec3 batt is maintence free...

[Ah Pek]

s4 manual dat s4 spec3 batt is maintence free...

 

"maintence free..."...this mean that you don't have to top up with battery water when it falls below level.

 

Considered an advanced battery design, maintenance free Batteries eliminates water loss. Once it's filled with acid the battery is permanently sealed - so you'll never need to fill it with water or check the acid level.

 

Once filled with acid from its special packs, the battery is virtually maintenance free. It's totally sealed and all of the acid is absorbed in the special plates and separators, so there is no need to worry about acid leaks on valuable vehicle parts and accessories. Less corrosive too for the terminals as there is no lead acid vapour when being charge.

 

Every battery has a -ve terminal and that is your earth (grounding) for a complete cycle. look at the battery as part of your "circuit" thus it has to have common ground in order to loop.

[Burnt]

[Q] Recently i drop my precious bike .. my gear lever like bend inwards a little ,still can ride ... How do i remedy it ?

 

Thanks in advance !! :thumb:

[Ah Pek]

my gear lever like bend inwards a little ,still can ride ... How do i remedy it ?

 

Not sure exactly which part..should have provide a picture..anyway, if you can find a water pipe section or a stainless steel metal tubing (those like the fork upper tube..bike mototiam plenty), you can just slot in from front and insert deep enough and bend outward. If you ahve anything tha's strong and flat(metal or wood)..also can fucm level it out but put a thick cloth against your crank case so it would not get scratch. There are many other ways.

[dirtbikes]

"maintence free..."...this mean that you don't have to top up with battery water when it falls below level.

 

Considered an advanced battery design, maintenance free Batteries eliminates water loss. Once it's filled with acid the battery is permanently sealed - so you'll never need to fill it with water or check the acid level.

 

Once filled with acid from its special packs, the battery is virtually maintenance free. It's totally sealed and all of the acid is absorbed in the special plates and separators, so there is no need to worry about acid leaks on valuable vehicle parts and accessories. Less corrosive too for the terminals as there is no lead acid vapour when being charge.

 

Every battery has a -ve terminal and that is your earth (grounding) for a complete cycle. look at the battery as part of your "circuit" thus it has to have common ground in order to loop.

 

ok bro..tks once again..btw i read at one of ur pm dat u also doing 'grounding'..if i wld like my bike to be grounded..hw much wld u charge?? tks in advance bro:thumb:

[Ah Pek]

hw much wld u charge?? tks in advance bro

 

LOL!..no charge lah..may be at least one Ko_Pee_Orh lor.

 

I'll help out as where to connect and how to do it. My time spend on one person is the same and why not you gather a few more ppl who are interested, arrange a date, a time and a place...I think its more productive.

 

Let me know..if there is know one else...do keep me posted and I have it done for you.

[arsonist]

ah pek u got rebuild / service ur brake system urself?

what are the things needed?

so far i bought the rear and front caliper o-rings already, as well as the hand pump spring and rubber thingy ( sorry nt sure what its called )

 

any advice and tips on how to get along with it?

[Ah Pek]

ah pek u got rebuild / service ur brake system urself?

what are the things needed?

 

The most I did myself was just bleeding and replaced DOT3 hydraulic oil in the reservoir..other then heavy jet the brake pads.

 

so far i bought the rear and front caliper o-rings already, as well as the hand pump spring and rubber thingy ( sorry nt sure what its called )

 

any advice and tips on how to get along with it?

 

I have seen this done till I sian but I neevr do it myself..not really worth all the hazzle (but not difficult lah)..better let the mechanic do it when you need to change brake pads the next time..workman ship about $25 (should think so lah) the very most. If you like, I can recomment you a workshop if you are around AMK area..you be in good mechanic hands.

 

At any rate..if you DIY, just remember not to let the brake fluid spill on any paint work..if so, do have a access to water near by.

[arsonist]

okie so im correct abt the stuff needed ryte?

anymore other things need to buy etc if i want to diy?

[Ah Pek]

okie so im correct abt the stuff needed ryte?

anymore other things need to buy etc if i want to diy?

 

Btw..just curious..you ur replacing them stuff is bekuz its defective or what?

 

Looks like you have gotten the stuff you need..don't forget the right tools for the job though..have fun buddy

[Burnt]

its the bagster tank bra ryte? i dun think chiong one got the tribal design. rain water come in from the fuel tank opening ryte and then absorbed inside? i think can go auntie shop (or somewhere ther) and ask for a cover with ur own design to put to cover the fuel tank cover area. lidat at least rain will not seep in so much and will look nicer also.

 

bro arsonist .. Wad cover u refering to ? u got anot ? can show ?

[Burnt]

Not sure exactly which part..should have provide a picture..anyway, if you can find a water pipe section or a stainless steel metal tubing (those like the fork upper tube..bike mototiam plenty), you can just slot in from front and insert deep enough and bend outward. If you ahve anything tha's strong and flat(metal or wood)..also can fucm level it out but put a thick cloth against your crank case so it would not get scratch. There are many other ways.

 

thanks bro .. i got it !!

[MonoWorld]

my handlebar is vibrating quite bad. when it's idling, my left wing mirror vibrates. Is there any solution to the vibrating handlebar?

[Ah Pek]

handlebar is vibrating quite bad. when it's idling, my left wing mirror vibrates.

 

May not be a solution here I'm giving but it's definitely caused by rough idling (is idling adjustmant too low?) and the probality is that your plugs(can be one) ain't firing and combustion in chamber no good at idling status. Could be jetting partially dirty, air filter clog..etc. This is a minor thing but getting the problem solve is another. Best is to go for a servicing and see if its still there..unless if you just done your servicing..than get back here for other probable suggestion.

[MonoWorld]

May not be a solution here I'm giving but it's definitely caused by rough idling (is idling adjustmant too low?) and the probality is that your plugs(can be one) ain't firing and combustion in chamber no good at idling status. Could be jetting partially dirty, air filter clog..etc. This is a minor thing but getting the problem solve is another. Best is to go for a servicing and see if its still there..unless if you just done your servicing..than get back here for other probable suggestion.

I have just done carb servicing on saturday but the plugs not yet changed. changed to K&N filter 2-3 weeks ago. vibrating handlebar is not normal right?

[arsonist]

Btw..just curious..you ur replacing them stuff is bekuz its defective or what?

 

Looks like you have gotten the stuff you need..don't forget the right tools for the job though..have fun buddy

 

not yet defective la but many months ago was advised bby mech to change orings and service front calipers as the turning of the wheel feels rough or sumting like tt they said.

 

mite a well service and change rather than wait till the brake jam on me.

 

eh ah pek wheres the cheapest to get ebc HH brake pads? u know? im thinking of using those brake pads for frt. unless u haf any other recommendation?

 

and yah, some one from the forum is helping me service the brakes.

[Ah Pek]

but the plugs not yet changed...vibrating handlebar is not normal right?

 

Yes...its not normal. My 10yrs 6mnth PB1 never vibrate like th way you describe here..smooth like silk...heee....x2! Ok..go change your spark plug set when you are ready...what about EO(u mentioned carb servcing only)? It be good that you do grounding after all that.