[Group] SUZUKI GSR 400/600

[BioMoDiFIed]

so bro,ur ttrying to say that since ours is FI,its not going to pose much of a prob issit?

 

what orleng had typed are all correct..not say it'll not pose much of a problem but, wat i felt was slightly better performance(n i dun mean gaining horsepower) plus slightly better fuel economy...and during idling, ur engine speed will be much more stable rather than going up and down...

[Orleng]

so bro,ur ttrying to say that since ours is FI,its not going to pose much of a prob issit?

aye, will prolly get the result like biomodified.

 

if you had irregular idling, it'll prolly fix that. also will probably affect just-off-idle performance, since the cyls won't be fighting one another.

 

but once you're off idle, it doesn't really matter anymore. each cylinder will have slightly different running characteristics, but at so high rpms, the differences become negligible.

 

if you hook up to the tools to check vacuumm, when you rev up, can see all the readings go haywire as each cyl begins to pull diff amt of air.

 

wouldn't worry too much if your idle isn't rough.

what orleng had typed are all correct..not say it'll not pose much of a problem but, wat i felt was slightly better performance(n i dun mean gaining horsepower) plus slightly better fuel economy...and during idling, ur engine speed will be much more stable rather than going up and down...

[Lexanez]

Yeah, did that bout some time ago. Kinda hard placed to take off the vacuum tubes and actually quite messy with the usage of EO.

 

Anyway, specific instructions are here, as told to me by Orleng.

 

Orleng[/color]] [slightly edited to make things clearer] Hi, sorry bout the delay, yest was doing another project, was too tired to think much after that.

 

Ok, for TBS(Throttle Body Synch) aka TVS(Throttle Valve Synch), may I recommend that you attempt it if and only if your bike is very rough sounding during idle. By this, I mean, if it has very uneven sounding idling, like damned random sequence of firing. If not, or it's just a slight stumble or hesitation during idle, it's ok, don't need to adjust. Our machines are all Fuel Injected, so the ECU compensates naturally at higher RPM, and at that point, the idle air is insignificant. Also, it detects an average vacuum across all 4 cylinders to determine fuel output at idle.

 

Right, if the machine is sounding darned random at idle, it could be due to a variety of reasons, of which TVS is the cheapest band-aid solution. Could be fouled or worn spark plugs too. So, don't perform a TVS unless you've just changed spark plugs, at least it's not recommended that you do so. Other causes could be faulty spark plug coils and other weird damages.

 

If you're performing a TVS, first thing, get the user manual for the GSR6. Google "GSR 600 Manual". You should have a link from Scribd for a manual by Vandaf, 2006.

 

Follow the instructions in the manual and remove everything + remove the airbox + lift up the tank. At this point, follow the instructions about removing the spark plug coils carefully, such that you don't damage anything. Change the spark plugs out for fresh ones and then re-attach the coils properly. Do not overtighten or cross-thread the plugs.

 

Fire up the engine, see if it's rough or not. If it's acceptable, then you can prolly ignore the TVS. FI bikes can run with throttle valves out of synch. Carbed versions are more sensitive to TV being out of synch since they depend on the vacuum action to draw in fuel.

 

*Note: Anytime you're not working on the TBodies for an extended period, e.g. go drink water n such, cover the tops with cling wrap and secure with rubber band to prevent dirt and the like from entering. Caution: Do NOT drop anything into the TBs, be very careful around them.

 

DIY Manometer for cheap : At this point, if you've decided you need to do a TBS, gather the following equipment. 20m of 3/16" plastic tubing, or if in mm, 4.5mm Internal Diameter, 2 T-connectors, engine oil. Cut into 4 equal lengths, draw some EO up by sucking at one end of all 4 tubes at the same time. Get around 1m of EO into each tube, don't have to be even, they will balance out on their own. Remove the bottoms and while holding the tubes in your mouth(alternatively, kink the tubes to achieve the same effect), maintain the air pressure so the oil doesn't leak back out too quickly, connect them using the T-joints and a small piece of tubing to bridge 2 T-joints. After that, cut off the tips where you were sucking to remove the salivated ends.

 

Remove the Vacuum hoses shown in the manul . At this juncture, you may have some difficulty. This is where I got stuck for more than 1hr. The vacuum tubes are damned !@*#ing hard to remove. I removed the fuel tank to make accessing them easier. Replace the remove vacuum tubes with your tubes. Hang the oil-filled sections from a wooden board or the like somewhere where you can see it. Be careful when removing the tubes, pull in a direction where you won’t damage or bash the fuel injector connectors if the tube suddenly pops off.

 

Replace the fuel tank and hook up the fuel hose + electrical connector and 2 air-tubes. Fit a screwdriver into the idle-adjust screw and get ready to adjust it. What happens is that the vacuum hoses you disconnected are connected to the IAP. They are no longer reading a negative pressure during operation, therefore, it'll detect as no vacuum = no need for fuel, so the pump doesn't force anymore fuel into the injectors, the bike will die after a few seconds of start up. I found out about this when the engine kept dying.

 

*Caution : As you fire up the engine, watch the oil levels in the tubes. If your engine was very rough sounding, it may be because one or more TBs are greatly out of synch. If this is the case, it may have excessive vacuum compared to the other TBs and you may suck the EO in the tubes into the vacuum ports and damage the TB/cyl! Keep a thumb on the kill switch as you start up. If the fluid flows too quickly up one tube, kill the engine and go to the section below describing idle air screw adjustment. Adjust the TB by loosening first to reduce the vacuum levels.

 

Fire up the engine, and hold the throttle open till it can idle properly at 1.3k. You might have to twist it open quite a bit. If the engine dies a few times, it's ok. Just make sure that your battery can sustain the repeated starting. I had a voltmeter to monitor this. When you have the engine idling at 1.3k RPM, adjust the idle-screw until the throttle is held at this position. Then you can let go of the throttle. Another thing which I did was to kink up the vacuum hose leading to the IAP and tie it off with a rubberband, don't know if that affected the idling. If you open the throttle and can't hold it at 1.3k without twisting any further, try blocking off that vacuum hose.

 

Prior to this, make marks on the TB's idle air screw to align the screw with the casing. I used a screwdriver to score the metal. This will allow you to record how many turns you make in which direction. It enables you to return to the previous setting if you mess it up too badly.

 

Idle Air Screw adjustment : At this point, you will have noticed that the fluid level will pulse and start to fluctuate. Let it stabilise for a few seconds, since oil is viscous. Alternatively, you can use heavy transmission fluid. For me, I figured that if the oil gets sucked into the TB/cyl, it will still be burnt off. Either way, 5m of tubing is enough for you to see it rising and kill the engine.

The aim is to bring all the levels in line with one another, or close enough to one another. Turning the screw CW (Tighten) is to increase the vacuum, and this brings up the level of the adjusted tube. Turning it CCW (Loosen) is to decrease the vacuum and lower the level of fluid in the tubing.

 

Record all adjustments while you make them so you know what's going on should you need to reset. In between adjustments, lightly open up the throttle and close it. GENTLY. If you close the throttle too fast, it can increase the vacuum by a lot and unevenly, so may suck fluid out one tube, aka, "Engine Braking" mode. This is to jar the fluid levels so they can readjust to their new vacuums.

 

If the engine starts to overheat while you're adjusting, turn off and let it cool for awhile.

 

Once the levels are more or less even, shut down and remove the tubes from the vacuum nipples. Replace all the equipment according to the manual and check each and every screw/bolt is where it's supposed to be. It helps to have a plastic box like those from Daiso with diff compartments to hold the screws and bolts from all over. Yellow-tape the hoses you remove to remind you which to plug back.

 

When everything is back together, get ready to adjust the idle screw. As you fire up the engine, the revs will immediately climb to 5k+ RPM due to the earlier adjustment of the idle air screw. It scared the s*** outa me. It may help to turn the screw CCW to reduce the idle rpm prior to engine startup. Just don't turn it too far and go below normal idle speed. Reset your idle RPM and reassemble everything. Tadah! You're done!

 

In a nutshell,

 

1. Determine whether TVS is necessary. Start the engine and warm it up to bout 50 degrees celcius and check whether the idling has an uneven pattern to it.

 

2.If so, check for faulty plugs and replace if necessary.

 

3. Gather required materials, as suggested by Orleng for testing or just get a vacuum gauge as stated in the manual.

 

4. These items are,

- 20m of 4.5mm tubes (Easily obtained for any fish emporium)

- 2 T-shaped connectors (Also from where you can get the tubes-

- Engine Oil of any kind (2T or 4T with low viscosity recommended)

 

5a. Divide the tubes into 5 m section each. Suck up EO by putting all 4 tubes into your mouth on 1 end and other into the EO (without drinking it!) to bout 1m length.

 

5b. Next, try to hold pressure in the EO by bending the tubes at right angle on the top and connecting the T-connectors at the base where the EO is. Remember to place newspapers or boards to prevent the EO from spilling on the floor. Last, snip off the salivated ends (You don't want your saliva to be touching your TBs!!)

 

5. Lift up and support tank / remove tank

 

6. Remove the IAC sensor on the airbox and the vacuum tubes, as stated on the manual.

 

7. *Tricky* Pull off the vacuum tubes connected to the nipple of the TB, it is quite low on it. Try not to use excessive force and always pull it clear of any obstructions, I.e not hitting something when you got thrown back for it.

 

8. Connect your tubes to the vacuum nipples on the TB.

 

9. Maintain a hold on the Idle Air Screw and adjust it as necessary to ensure that the engine is idling at 1.3k RPM as the engine will die off soon after starting.

 

10. *Caution* If your TB is excessively out of sync, there may be a possibility of suction into the TB so do not hesitate to switch off engine if you notice a large amount of EO flowing inside any of the tubes. If that happens, loosen the screws on the TB first.

 

11. Aligned a mark on the screws to the casing in case of any mis-adjustments (Just in case!)

 

12a. The fun part! Let the oil stablize inside the tubes and you could see the levels are quite different in the event of out of sync TBs so adjust the screws on the TB as necessary to bring up or down.

 

Do make records of your adjustments (Again, in case of mis-adjustments) and throttle up and down gently, in between adjustments to re-aligned the fluid levels.

 

12b. *Key note* To which level to adjust, I picked the middle of all fluid levels to adjust to. More like using the fluid level in the middle as a benchmark to adjust to.

 

13. Replace everything back once you are done.

 

14. *Caution* Loosen up the idle screw significantly first before starting and adjust it accordingly when you start to about 1.3k RPM.

 

*Good to take note of*

 

1. Label tubes and parts you remove prior to replacement so not to confuse which to put back to.

 

2. Do record your adjustments in case of screw ups.

 

3. If you are not confident, it is advisable for you to not attempt it and go down to a shop to do it or attend the DIY sessions.

 

4. Do re-read the instructions at least thrice and refer back to the manual from time to time.

 

5. Don't panick when there is a screw up, calm down and walk back on what you done.

 

Hope this is helpful! Of course, credits for this goes to Orleng!

Edited August 19, 2010 by Lexanez

[showa_dave]

Hi guys,

 

I am looking for nice sticker for my tank as there is a scratch of size 20cents on it.

 

Where can i get nice sticker? Looking for those sticker in "words type" not those "picture type".

 

Some told me Auntie shop beside ah boy shop but i dont get what i like...

 

Any more suggestion? Bukit merah?

[-PiE-]

Hi guys,

 

I am looking for nice sticker for my tank as there is a scratch of size 20cents on it.

 

Where can i get nice sticker? Looking for those sticker in "words type" not those "picture type".

 

Some told me Auntie shop beside ah boy shop but i dont get what i like...

 

Any more suggestion? Bukit merah?

 

look for ivikarazi...

[-PiE-]

Pie...where's the falcon???

 

it's still with me bro! tried to let it fly away but it still came back.. gonna ride it for maybe 1year more.. change my mind ah bro. some of my peeps suggest it's not wise to coi my falcon to others. so i listen. heeee! wait till my hero is born than we go malaysia with the rest of gsrians..cheers!

[Amsterdam_Virus]

aye, will prolly get the result like biomodified.

 

if you had irregular idling, it'll prolly fix that. also will probably affect just-off-idle performance, since the cyls won't be fighting one another.

 

but once you're off idle, it doesn't really matter anymore. each cylinder will have slightly different running characteristics, but at so high rpms, the differences become negligible.

 

if you hook up to the tools to check vacuumm, when you rev up, can see all the readings go haywire as each cyl begins to pull diff amt of air.

 

wouldn't worry too much if your idle isn't rough.

 

oic..how bout the cleaning of our injectors? how does we know the theres probs with the injectors not spraying properly..n how often should we fix that

[Orangdez]

Hi All,

My back tyre got punctured by a sharp metal object and its punctured. A small portion of the tyre rubber is torn. However, I changed my tyres just 1 month back and the threadings still very new. Is there any other way to save my tyre except to change new one?

Need urgent advice please..

[IvikaRazI]

Hi All,

My back tyre got punctured by a sharp metal object and its punctured. A small portion of the tyre rubber is torn. However, I changed my tyres just 1 month back and the threadings still very new. Is there any other way to save my tyre except to change new one?

Need urgent advice please..

 

Depends on how big the damage is. Can try and save by doing an internal patch. Pricewise depends on how much damage done to the tire. I did mine with 2 holes ard $25 at Motoworld I think. One of the hole they patch 2 times. Afterwhich is wheel balancing. Then its done.

[Orangdez]

Depends on how big the damage is. Can try and save by doing an internal patch. Pricewise depends on how much damage done to the tire. I did mine with 2 holes ard $25 at Motoworld I think. One of the hole they patch 2 times. Afterwhich is wheel balancing. Then its done.

 

 

Thanks Razi for your advice. Bad luck to kana puntured.

[nelo]

Thanks Razi for your advice. Bad luck to kana puntured.

 

wow i bet it sucks to have pretty new tires punctures.. only 1 month!

[TzmAngel]

Hey Guys i would like to check if i would want to change my rotors for a ABS model How much would it cost or is there any other solutions as both my front and back rotors are not even

[IvikaRazI]

Hey Guys i would like to check if i would want to change my rotors for a ABS model How much would it cost or is there any other solutions as both my front and back rotors are not even

 

Change rotors are cheaper than changing to ABS. For GSR, I ask before Galfer floating Disc rotors. If not wrong, $400 each for the front and $180 for the back.

 

The cheapest solution is to send the rotors for skimming. You may want to change to new brake pads to see if the problem is still there. Coz the pads may not wear properly.

[TzmAngel]

But If i would Skim my rotor would it warp my rotors fast

[IvikaRazI]

But If i would Skim my rotor would it warp my rotors fast

 

Skimming is the cheapest solution anyway. If you feel unsafe, by all means change the discs. In the end its your moni. No one can decide your safety but yourself. So do what is right for you since your life is in the bike's hand or discs.

 

First of all you need to know how come your disc warp. Most of the time is because of uneven wear of brake pads.

 

Do read up http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

[TzmAngel]

Do u know where i could go and skim my disc

[BioMoDiFIed]

oic..how bout the cleaning of our injectors? how does we know the theres probs with the injectors not spraying properly..n how often should we fix that

 

as for the injector cleaning, im not so sure...maybe once every 20k? but if you feel tat u nid to do it, there another cheaper solution, buy the STP fuel system cleaner..the one where you pour into the fuel tank...but as for the results, im not too sure, coz nvr tried it b4..

[TzmAngel]

Could Anyone tell me where could i go and Skim my Front & Back Brake Rotors

[Izzit]

guys ... ever since my maiden trip to hatyai a week back...

 

i'm hearing a buzzing sound (probably from the front of my bike ... around the meters) when i rev above 5500 RPM...

 

anybody knows what it is ? ... the sound does not seem to be there when i rev stationary .... it only rings when moving ... any bros here can advice?

 

I have already ruled out the radiator grill shaking and the sound is clearly coming from the front of the bike above 5500 RPM. It is not loud ... but clear enough to know that i'm not imagining it.

[Amsterdam_Virus]

as for the injector cleaning, im not so sure...maybe once every 20k? but if you feel tat u nid to do it, there another cheaper solution, buy the STP fuel system cleaner..the one where you pour into the fuel tank...but as for the results, im not too sure, coz nvr tried it b4..

 

hmm ok..have any1 tried doing back ur injectors b4? btw,if im using an arrowmid pipe with stock headers n xhaust,will the midpipe needs to be change b4 going for inspection? coz my inspection coming soon

[EJ]

guys ... ever since my maiden trip to hatyai a week back...

 

i'm hearing a buzzing sound (probably from the front of my bike ... around the meters) when i rev above 5500 RPM...

 

anybody knows what it is ? ... the sound does not seem to be there when i rev stationary .... it only rings when moving ... any bros here can advice?

 

I have already ruled out the radiator grill shaking and the sound is clearly coming from the front of the bike above 5500 RPM. It is not loud ... but clear enough to know that i'm not imagining it.

 

mine came from the IU cover..

 

hmm ok..have any1 tried doing back ur injectors b4? btw,if im using an arrowmid pipe with stock headers n xhaust,will the midpipe needs to be change b4 going for inspection? coz my inspection coming soon

 

better be safe than sorry. the last time i went for my inspection he even used an inspection mirror to inspect my mid pipe for any funny2 welding marks..

[EJ]

as for the injector cleaning, im not so sure...maybe once every 20k? but if you feel tat u nid to do it, there another cheaper solution, buy the STP fuel system cleaner..the one where you pour into the fuel tank...but as for the results, im not too sure, coz nvr tried it b4..

 

i've tried the STP fuel cleaner before. it does work but its abit expensive for fuel additive.

 

am currently using FP60. bought a big bottle from Mustafa at about 30+.. it works, i get slightly more millege. even norman recommends it..

[BioMoDiFIed]

i've tried the STP fuel cleaner before. it does work but its abit expensive for fuel additive.

 

am currently using FP60. bought a big bottle from Mustafa at about 30+.. it works, i get slightly more millege. even norman recommends it..

 

Oh yes...FP60, how cud i forget abt it...yeah used it b4..

[NazAdidas]

Hi aLL thOse LooKing For UseD GsR4 Looi's GoT FBC 2 bLaCk 1 wHiTe & FBE 1 bLaCk(K9)

LaStLy GsR6 FBC 1 bLuE

InFo Free Of ChaRGe By NazAdidas

[Izzit]

mine came from the IU cover..

 

 

 

sry to be noob ... but how did u solve it? .... i should try