[Group] SUZUKI GSR 400/600

[PuTrA]

All bikes except for those scooter that has auto transmission(auto gear). As long as the bike is using clutch lever to change gear then it can be done. However, please do it at your own risk.

 

Please be extra careful if you want to try it. Although it is not really that risky. The most if you fail to hit the rpm sweet spot is that when you try to kick the gear up, you still remain in the same gear. For a start, try not to do clutchless changing at lower gears... its more difficult and dangerous. Try it at gear 3 and above. Strangely, but I find it more easier to do clutchless transition from gear 4 to 5 than any other gears. Reason why I say not to try at lower gears becos you dun wanna a sudden wheelie if you accidentally open the throttle too fast and also ... you're at a slower speed and if it fail, you will be slowing down a little... which other vehicle from the back might hit you. Remember, clutchless gear shift is about timing and feeling... it takes only split second to change... dun wait too long. *ram up to 9k... close half throttle... rpm drop a little maybe to 8k... quickly kick up your gear and open throttle again*

 

hmmm...will try it on my way to school later...if can oso i wheelie all the way der...hahaha

[flareon1982]

Yeah... I have experimenting it when I first got this bike. It's called Clutchless gear shift. You got to attain high enough rpm before closing throttle slightly and quickly kick up the gear and then accelerate again. Only works for changing to higher gear... cannot do gear down.

 

This method is usually used for wheelie stunts. There are debates over this is better than using the clutch lever... but as always, there are pros and cons. To read more about it, just google "bike clutchless gear shift"... there are many topics talked about in other bike forums as well.

 

In short, clutchless gear shift is good for quicker pickup as the rpm doesn't go down as much as you clutch in the lever. However, you really got to try and error to find the "sweet spot" on your rpm to be able to change the gear up smoothly.

 

to down gear u only need to blip the bike and shift down. For info purpose, do not do this unless u have choice. Use this often and you will have to make a trip to the mech very soon.

[-PiE-]

to down gear u only need to blip the bike and shift down. For info purpose, do not do this unless u have choice. Use this often and you will have to make a trip to the mech very soon.

 

found out that too last time. but choose not to use it la..

not good for the gear i guess. like not against natural motion.

if too lazy to use clutch go auto. haha!

[flareon1982]

found out that too last time. but choose not to use it la..

not good for the gear i guess. like not against natural motion.

if too lazy to use clutch go auto. haha!

 

Totally agree with u. It is extremely bad for the bike. Clutch plate will spoil super fast. Try at your own risk guys.

[BioMoDiFIed]

Nope should be OK, means you found the "sweet" spot. There is a technique that you need to adhere to heheh.

 

WARNING TO ALL STUNT WANNA BEs >>> Can do gear up but cannot apply this for gear down hor.

 

Anyway how I wish can change to slipper clutch hehehe.

 

Yeah... I have experimenting it when I first got this bike. It's called Clutchless gear shift. You got to attain high enough rpm before closing throttle slightly and quickly kick up the gear and then accelerate again. Only works for changing to higher gear... cannot do gear down.

 

This method is usually used for wheelie stunts. There are debates over this is better than using the clutch lever... but as always, there are pros and cons. To read more about it, just google "bike clutchless gear shift"... there are many topics talked about in other bike forums as well.

 

In short, clutchless gear shift is good for quicker pickup as the rpm doesn't go down as much as you clutch in the lever. However, you really got to try and error to find the "sweet spot" on your rpm to be able to change the gear up smoothly.

 

Thanks guys for the feedback...Sigh of relief that there is nothing wrong..

All bikes except for those scooter that has auto transmission(auto gear). As long as the bike is using clutch lever to change gear then it can be done. However, please do it at your own risk.

 

Please be extra careful if you want to try it. Although it is not really that risky. The most if you fail to hit the rpm sweet spot is that when you try to kick the gear up, you still remain in the same gear. For a start, try not to do clutchless changing at lower gears... its more difficult and dangerous. Try it at gear 3 and above. Strangely, but I find it more easier to do clutchless transition from gear 4 to 5 than any other gears. Reason why I say not to try at lower gears becos you dun wanna a sudden wheelie if you accidentally open the throttle too fast and also ... you're at a slower speed and if it fail, you will be slowing down a little... which other vehicle from the back might hit you. Remember, clutchless gear shift is about timing and feeling... it takes only split second to change... dun wait too long. *ram up to 9k... close half throttle... rpm drop a little maybe to 8k... quickly kick up your gear and open throttle again*

i managed to shift it up at 5k rpm...but its like a damn precision move..have to time it juz right, move the throttle to almost closed position, then quickly shift up..initially i thought that only bikes with slipper clutch are able to shift up in this manner...

Totally agree with u. It is extremely bad for the bike. Clutch plate will spoil super fast. Try at your own risk guys.

 

Will take note of that too...thanks..

[WildCard]

Yeah... I have experimenting it when I first got this bike. It's called Clutchless gear shift. You got to attain high enough rpm before closing throttle slightly and quickly kick up the gear and then accelerate again. Only works for changing to higher gear... cannot do gear down.

 

This method is usually used for wheelie stunts. There are debates over this is better than using the clutch lever... but as always, there are pros and cons. To read more about it, just google "bike clutchless gear shift"... there are many topics talked about in other bike forums as well.

 

In short, clutchless gear shift is good for quicker pickup as the rpm doesn't go down as much as you clutch in the lever. However, you really got to try and error to find the "sweet spot" on your rpm to be able to change the gear up smoothly.

 

 

Clutchless shift is not just for "wheelie stunts".

Professional racers rely on clutchless shifting to prevent losing some speed due to loss of acceleration when clutching in as well as precious seconds taken to pull the clutch in and let the clutch out.

This is also quite apparent in some drag-racing.

Power Commander even built a device to help make clutchless shifting a less painful experience for novice racers:

http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander_ex/powercommander_quick_shifter.aspx

 

The reason why it happens easily on GSRs its because GSR gearbox is rather pretty smooth, made even so with a good engine oil.

 

Its quite easy to do a upward clutch shift. Just accelerate up to your desired RPM, hold it such that you are neither accelerating nor decelerating (no changes in your RPM or speed) and you will feel your shifter feels slack and soft if you kick upwards.

If you have a MotoGP-style reverse shift pattern like my bike (kick up to lower gear, kick down to upper gear), its even more apparent and easier as you can feel the gear shifter literally pulls itself downwards when you maintain a fixed RPM.

 

BUT having said that, there is no real gain in clutchless-shifting if you're riding in the street....

[Guest motofreak]

Any simpang later? Update me if have k. Outz

[Seraph]

Anyway why I said stock air filters are the best is....

 

1. Paper media cleans better than a re-usable cotton gauze filter. More pleats, more media, complex paper fiber structures which actually trap the smallest particles reasonably expected to be caught. That is why they aren't reusable, because it actually traps stuff so well that you can't remove them without destroying the internal structure.

 

Anyhow I picked up a simota at MW and I could see through the blue filter media itself (its translucent). Highly doubt that filtration is as effective. You want more air-flow, be prepared to let in more dirt.

 

2. FI systems on bikes are not closed loop, unlike cars. Put a K&N on a car and the ECU will automatically compensate for the increase in airflow, with immediate and improved performance gain. Three words...NEED TO TUNE. Otherwise no pt. Your bike ends up with more air than it can use and gets some 'forced' down its intake, effectively screwing up the air/fuel ratio and messing with your power delivery.

 

3. Stock filter's shape seals 100%. No improper sealing.

 

4. Any air box leaks due to improper sealing or change in airflow rate or pattern may interfere with the internal air box turbulence and might create any combination of effects from dead-air areas to turbulence which could either 'choke' (too much air) or 'strangle' your engine.

 

Complete story here: http://www.rc51.org/airfilt.htm

 

Anyhow the stock filter isn't too costly to replace often. 38 at LAB I've heard. Might end up paying more in the long-run yes, but not that much more for a guaranteed 'clean' airflow. Nobody picks up a new bike and immediately goes "Oh no! Air-fuel mixture not correct! MUST modify!". On second thought...maybe Razi...

Edited November 4, 2009 by Seraph

[Bone-Eticz]

Anyway why I said stock air filters are the best is....

 

1. Paper media cleans better than a re-usable cotton gauze filter. More pleats, more media, complex paper fiber structures which actually trap the smallest particles reasonably expected to be caught. That is why they aren't reusable, because it actually traps stuff so well that you can't remove them without destroying the internal structure.

 

Anyhow I picked up a simota at MW and I could see through the blue filter media itself (its translucent). Highly doubt that filtration is as effective. You want more air-flow, be prepared to let in more dirt.

 

2. FI systems on bikes are not closed loop, unlike cars. Put a K&N on a car and the ECU will automatically compensate for the increase in airflow, with immediate and improved performance gain. Three words...NEED TO TUNE. Otherwise no pt. Your bike ends up with more air than it can use and gets some 'forced' down its intake, effectively screwing up the air/fuel ratio and messing with your power delivery.

 

3. Stock filter's shape seals 100%. No improper sealing.

 

4. Any air box leaks due to improper sealing or change in airflow rate or pattern may interfere with the internal air box turbulence and might create any combination of effects from dead-air areas to turbulence which could either 'choke' (too much air) or 'strangle' your engine.

 

Complete story here: http://www.rc51.org/airfilt.htm

 

Anyhow the stock filter isn't too costly to replace often. 38 at LAB I've heard. Might end up paying more in the long-run yes, but not that much more for a guaranteed 'clean' airflow. Nobody picks up a new bike and immediately goes "Oh no! Air-fuel mixture not correct! MUST modify!". On second thought...maybe Razi...

 

Right on mate...Totally agree with cha on this...

On a side note, Common Replacements of air-filters are between EVery 20km - 40km In between intervals it can be lighty knock to remove large amount of dirt & loosen the gaps in between & can be blown out by air blower in a jippy without damaging the air filter anyfurther...

Been Phycially proven & practised...

 

Cheerio Mate...

[Bone-Eticz]

My Days to Take leaves, before thoses ******** booked dates unecessary so nobody else can take them... is Between 10th Dec to 23rd Dec....

Informations is correct from 04-10-09 @1001hrs...

 

Thank you..

[jazzy7932]

Hi Guys..wanna install Yoshi xos liao..BUT whats the difference btwn stainless steel type and titanium? look? or simply material differences?

I understand titanium emit less heats..thats all?

[Seraph]

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QeL9U6bFkZo/Suq-rx7sM9I/AAAAAAAAAHU/MnLGTC66KEQ/s1600/Handroid%2Bstyle2.jpg

 

Introducing.......what else.......POISON!

[Seraph]

Ladeez and Gentleman, please do click on the bar to view the full image for maximum viewing pleasure.

 

more information here

[Guest motofreak]

Hi Guys..wanna install Yoshi xos liao..BUT whats the difference btwn stainless steel type and titanium? look? or simply material differences?

I understand titanium emit less heats..thats all?

 

No diff. Performance wise still same/negligable. Just looks...

[Kampfer]

ya i know tat...coz everytime saw u!!! ur white bike...ur white helmet n ur white pillion...hahaha

 

Eh... so you're the rider of the red gsr often parked beside the 7/11 ah.. haha.

I got carry white pillon ah.. Taylor Swift

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QeL9U6bFkZo/Suq-rx7sM9I/AAAAAAAAAHU/MnLGTC66KEQ/s1600/Handroid%2Bstyle2.jpg

 

Introducing.......what else.......POISON!

 

Wow, that's the most innovative glove I've seen... Too bad it's only coming out in march lei.. haha.

[Seraph]

Ya lor...Eh Kampfer...you're a friend of Kit Chew eh?

[Guest motofreak]

No lah... He is a fren of Pika Chew..

[Seraph]

serious question la...

[Kampfer]

Ya lor...Eh Kampfer...you're a friend of Kit Chew eh?

 

Yah, he's a fren since secondary school..

 

No lah... He is a fren of Pika Chew..

 

HAHAHAHAHAHA THAT WAS F-ING EPIC!

[JoeKilat89]

hey im gonna get gsr 400 soon. do u guys noe the machine price? and where is the cheapest deal i can get?

[Z3U5]

hey im gonna get gsr 400 soon. do u guys noe the machine price? and where is the cheapest deal i can get?

 

go to bike shop and ask lah...we dont buy GSR everyday...LOL..nor we have run a motor shop.

[ezezeal]

hey im gonna get gsr 400 soon. do u guys noe the machine price? and where is the cheapest deal i can get?

 

You can source around for second hand bikes sold at moto tiams. 2 months ago when i was looking around, FBB plates will cost u ard 10K machine price w/o insurance. FBC prob around 12K. As for brand new, Loois has currently 2 models left. one is the k7 ('07 model) the other is the k9 ('09 model). The K7 model if im not wrong is 14-15K otr . The K9 is 18-19k otr. Difference in price is due to the increased horsepower. The K7 is 53 ponies dragging the bike. the K9 adds another 8 ponies.

[EJ]

hi helmy.

 

nice pipes. sorry couldnt make out what you were trying to say just now. Should've followed you into the carpark and see where you parked. then at night come with my tool box.

[IvikaRazI]

POISON!!! hehehe

 

http://climax-gsr.up.seesaa.net/image/s-GSR60020021.jpg

[EJ]

which one??? the oil filler cover or the carbon fibre frame cover?????