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Posted
Yea it helped! :D yeap r77 of cos. hahaha. Not too long. Looks nice. Sounds nice. :D but im gonna save money first. Till got enough to buy PC then only i will buy both exhaust n pc together. :)

U save money for PC5 must also save for dyno run as well wor... I had changed my end can and air filter... but I never use PC... bike still can run well and even go for long distant ride...

"Money is the root of all evil" <Be careful if someone ask a loan from u... Be wary if the person promises the sky. Be thankful if u had made the right decision to reject the pathetic person.>

Posted
bro strongbow your pulsar u pump wad petrol?

 

pump malaysia esso ron95 lo! =D why le?

 

U save money for PC5 must also save for dyno run as well wor... I had changed my end can and air filter... but I never use PC... bike still can run well and even go for long distant ride...

 

i tot buy pc5 the price comes with the dyno run? else how to get the maps? =x

u using what end can now ah?

yea i suppose the bike still can run, just that maybe not running at its best?

Posted

i tot buy pc5 the price comes with the dyno run? else how to get the maps? =x

u using what end can now ah?

yea i suppose the bike still can run, just that maybe not running at its best?

Each sold seperately!!!! PC5 pre-default got no mapping for REVO..... thus u need to go through DYNO to map it... unless u dun mind to random use other bike model's setting...

"Money is the root of all evil" <Be careful if someone ask a loan from u... Be wary if the person promises the sky. Be thankful if u had made the right decision to reject the pathetic person.>

Posted
Each sold seperately!!!! PC5 pre-default got no mapping for REVO..... thus u need to go through DYNO to map it... unless u dun mind to random use other bike model's setting...

 

wah wah. not one package one huh. aihhhh. nvm la. anyway will be long before i need it. dont intend to pimp my ride so fast. hehehehe enjoy the stock! do one small thing at a time! =) ur bike is fully done up huh? damn expensive sia all the stuffs now. tsk tsktsk.

Posted
So ramsnake bro. To summarize what u just said. If i intend to buy a new bike, oftenly only riding at speeds of 130km/h or so. It's advisable to use thinner EO like 10w30 right? Till lets say after hitting mileage of 50,000km.

 

And also i intend to dyno break in my new bike. Is it advisable? If lets say i only want to use the bike for normal rides.

 

If i get fully synthetic 10w30 and fully syn 10w40. Both also 5000km changing interval right?

 

I also heard else where that using thicker engine oil(maybe 10w40) protects ur engine parts better... So this does not apply to new bikes?

 

Sorry for sort of repeating your post. Just wanna make sure i understand everything as intended

 

Yes, use 10W30 on a new bike. Even if it is a 2nd hand bike and if the mileage is low you should still use 10W30. There is generally no harm in going “one up”. This means if Honda recommends 10W30, using 40 (last number) is generally ok but it is not advisable to jump to a 50 oil. For a new bike, it is best to stick to 10W30 as recommended in the manual for some time because the engine is still “tight”.

 

Do note that the 50,000km is a guide only. So, how do I decide if I need to use a higher viscosity index oil? Generally listen to the sound of your engine as it is idling or after a ride. Is it getting a bit noisier? Try switching to a 40 oil and see if it sounds quieter. If it doesn’t seem to make much difference, going back to 30 is fine or sticking to 40 is ok too.

 

There are 2 schools of thought on breaking in or running in a bike – hard break in on a dyno or gentler break in by riding the bike. It’s a personal preference. A note on non-dyno break is that it is not about being gentle with the bike. It is all about getting the heat cycles so that the piston rings harden with the higher temperatures. Whilst maintaining a low RPM during the initial km, the revs should be gradually increased. Doing a dyno break in makes sense because there is little opportunity to ride in the higher rev range in Singapore.

So, @adi_sufri do take note. It’s not all about being gentle, bro :)

 

With regards to oil change intervals, it should be the same regardless of oil viscosity i.e. 10W30 or 15W40, change at same interval. As for whether we should change at 5,000km intervals when using fully synthetic oils, I personally would not do so as it is a waste of money. Again, Honda recommends 10,000km oil change intervals. When a manufacturer makes such recommendations, it is based on average riding conditions. Is Singapore more dusty or much hotter than other places the bike is sold to? I don’t think so. SG also doesn’t have winters that affect the condition of the oil. So, why do we halve the recommended oil change interval?

I’ve posted about this recently, so do look it up in the previous 2 page or so for other factors involved.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Firstly I do not know why you are so worked up. Why you have to take this remark so negatively?

To clear the misunderstanding, I am not a Geography student. I just quote an example just in case anyone else who has studied Geography can easily recall what they have learnt and clarify even better.

 

Hahahaha…. I guess the posts speak for themselves. Whether or not you are at present a geography student is besides the point and no one said anything about that. If your intention was just to clarify the fact that the temperatures in different parts of the world differ and thus have differing impact on the matter being discussed, simply stating this would have been sufficient. However, IMHO going on to say that “Geography students will understand better.” is a bit condescending.

 

Your remark stating " As a moderator, you should know better " is indeed offensive.

FYI All Moderators are not paid in any way or another & nor working for any bike shop.

 

What does whether or not you are being paid to be a moderator or whether any moderator represent any bike shops have anything to do with the matter at hand? My remark was in reference to your “geography student” comment, which I have clarified above.

 

Regarding pit stops, not everyone can ride and endure long distance, everyone have their limits.

 

Again, what has this got to do with the matter being discussed? To be clear the discussion was about whether or not frequently running the bike when it’s fuel level is in the reserve zone will cause the fuel pump to overheat. As far as pit stops are concerned, if anyone is uncomfortable riding at certain speeds or can only ride for a certain distance thus needing more frequent breaks, then the need to stop at the chosen time/distance interval is due to that rider’s limits. It has absolutely nothing to do with any fears of overheating the fuel pump when running the bike in the fuel reserve zone.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

bro ramsnake and sparkers. u two are knowledgeable and kind souls willing to help out other less knowledgeable ppl out there.

i think both of you misunderstood each other already la :cheeky:

 

i think the point that sparkers bro wanted to share was about how to PREVENT the fuel pump from overheating!

and the point that ramsnake bro was trying to say was that revo's fuel pump will not be spoilt that easily!

 

both points that you two experts shared are received with thanks from my side!

1) i got to know how to take better care of my bike

2) i am more assured of revo's quality!

 

im not trying to side whomever here or trying to spark up more fire.

just trying to keep this thread a cool place where revorians hang out!

 

woohoo! :thumb:

Posted

I appreciate what you're trying to do, @StrongBow :thumb:

 

I just want to point out that prevention is only necessary if there is a real risk. When the risk is not there, what is there to prevent? When the risk is not there and people start to offer "advice" based on unfounded fears, sooner or later that non-existent risk becomes a fact. This is also how the 3,000-mile/5,000km oil change interval became the accepted norm.

 

I think I've said enough on this matter.

 

Cheers

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Alright! Point taken!

 

One says prevention is better than cure.

One says cure is unnecessary for a non existent disease.

 

Both makes sense! CHEEEEERS! Good morning guys! Ride safe! I'm going to batam now! Woohoo!

Posted

Does revo has radiator fan? Mine doesn't have fan sound even at boiling temperature.

I understand there should be 3 overflow tubes on revo, but mine only has one. Is it normal?

Posted
Does revo has radiator fan? Mine doesn't have fan sound even at boiling temperature.

I understand there should be 3 overflow tubes on revo, but mine only has one. Is it normal?

 

Yes, there is a fan right behind the radiator. If I remember correctly mine switch on after the bike is sufficiently warmed up from a cold start. Does you temperature warning light come on? If not, I believe maybe you're not hearing it but it is actually working? Try putting a strip of paper behind or in front of radiator to check (can't remember if fan blows or suck, if u know what I mean... :)).

 

As for the overflow tubes, some mechanics disconnect the tubes as they consider them "unnecessary". Go figure...

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
@ramsnake, I think u own me an explanation about ur TIRES. Earlier post around march u recommend someone/ us Michelin PR3. But i have read and learn that u urself changed to BridgeStone BT023. I am just wondering Why??? Continue pls...:angel:

 

Err... sorry about that, mate. Yes, now I remember and I was really keen on the PR3s. Did you fit them on your bike?

 

Anyway, I only changed my tyres end-of May. As I was doing quite a bit of long distance rides I needed something that has a better wear rate without sacrificing grip too much. PR3s fit the bill.

After doing some "market research" I decided to get them at LAB as they quoted me in the low $3XX for the PR3 vs. $425(listed price) at Unique. That's a cool $100 diff!

 

When I finally decided to buy them, the boss said that they had quite a number of customers complaining about wobbling issues about half way past the useful life. Apparently the front is made in Thailand whereas the rear is made in Spain (or the other way round) and they suspect this is the reason for the wobbling issues. They then recommended that I fit BT023s instead. I then remember that Bike magazine rated the BT023s quite well "our favourite sports touring tyre" and didn't want to take the risk of PR3s wobbling. So I went with the BT023s.

 

Haven't had time to ask for feedback on the PR3s on the tyres thread though. If you did fit the PR3, your feedback after about 8000km would be appreciated.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Yes, there is a fan right behind the radiator. If I remember correctly mine switch on after the bike is sufficiently warmed up from a cold start. Does you temperature warning light come on? If not, I believe maybe you're not hearing it but it is actually working? Try putting a strip of paper behind or in front of radiator to check (can't remember if fan blows or suck, if u know what I mean... :)).

 

As for the overflow tubes, some mechanics disconnect the tubes as they consider them "unnecessary". Go figure...

 

I've heard radiator fans blowing on cls2 bikes before. But never once on my revo, no overheat indicator as well. Got once its so unbearable I have to open up my legs to ride. After turning engine off, still no fan noise. Should I get it checked?

 

Should I replace the overflow tubes as well?

Posted

Hi, been a while since i join in discussion here. But i recall this is 1 of e threads where EO was discussed on whether car EO can be used. To cut long story short, i was informed by those in e noe tat e future technology direction of EO has been changed and there will be lesser generalized category of EO which means lesser types or brands tat will be suitable for used in both vehicles.

 

E reason is supposingly due to e fact tat consumers r more intune with technology and moving towards performance and quality. But i told my fren tat i think it is BS becoz majority of vehicle owners r still getting a vehicle due to efficiency rather than performance. And cost, value for $, FC will be a concern rather than performance for majority. When EO becomes more specialized and no longer can we use common EO, it would mean price go up as e EO components also become specialized.

 

Well those who dun really understand i think is safe to just carry on using e usual bike EO. For those who understood, i do not noe when this technology change will come about but just take note and be careful when choose EO in future. But think will be a few years later ba. :)

Posted
Hi, been a while since i join in discussion here. But i recall this is 1 of e threads where EO was discussed on whether car EO can be used. To cut long story short, i was informed by those in e noe tat e future technology direction of EO has been changed and there will be lesser generalized category of EO which means lesser types or brands tat will be suitable for used in both vehicles.

 

E reason is supposingly due to e fact tat consumers r more intune with technology and moving towards performance and quality. But i told my fren tat i think it is BS becoz majority of vehicle owners r still getting a vehicle due to efficiency rather than performance. And cost, value for $, FC will be a concern rather than performance for majority. When EO becomes more specialized and no longer can we use common EO, it would mean price go up as e EO components also become specialized.

 

Well those who dun really understand i think is safe to just carry on using e usual bike EO. For those who understood, i do not noe when this technology change will come about but just take note and be careful when choose EO in future. But think will be a few years later ba. :)

 

Hi @danielling1981

Thanks for sharing! :thumb:

 

If I understand you correctly, some time in the future we won't be able to use car EO in bikes? Hmm... I think it's another of their (big oil) schemes to suck money out of bikers... :pity:

 

Until the day, if it comes, when my clutch slips or engine overheat, I'll continue to use car engine oils. :)

I wish they have oil analysis facilities here in Singapore like they do in the US. It would be useful to have my used engine oil analyzed to prove that it is ok to use car EO...

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Yes, there is a fan right behind the radiator. If I remember correctly mine switch on after the bike is sufficiently warmed up from a cold start. Does you temperature warning light come on? If not, I believe maybe you're not hearing it but it is actually working? Try putting a strip of paper behind or in front of radiator to check (can't remember if fan blows or suck, if u know what I mean... :)).

 

As for the overflow tubes, some mechanics disconnect the tubes as they consider them "unnecessary". Go figure...

 

FYI ... The fan is sucking the AIR-from the radiator throwing towards the engine itself ...

That`s WHY you can feel the HEAT ... Haha ... Lol ...

 

REALLY TRUE... What our Bro @ramsnake said is true cos some bike shop or mechanics disconnect the tubes as they consider them "unnecessary"... some more make them more job if they need to remove or plug it back after their job completed...

Posted

hey people selling the above item for revo=)

 

-Super 4 Revo Fork Brace (Silver) $70 cash and carry (FIX)

 

-Super 4 Moriwaki full system(LTA Approved) 1.4k

 

-Power Ignite-$150(universal) cash and carry

 

-DID X Ring Gold Chain + AFAM sprockets Font 15 back 45 for better pick up ($150) cash and carry

 

Buy everything special price at 1.6k=)

:cheers:

YAMAHA x1 110CC

YAMANA X1R 135CC

SUPERFOUR REVO 400CC

CBR 600CC

EVO JoyMax 300CC

Xciting 400CC

Posted
Oh I saw the fan!

Too soft to hear the sound.

Guess if it works then no need fix, including the overflow tubes.

 

Great :thumb:

Sorry, didn't have time to reply yesterday.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted (edited)
Err... sorry about that, mate. Yes, now I remember and I was really keen on the PR3s. Did you fit them on your bike?

 

Anyway, I only changed my tyres end-of May. As I was doing quite a bit of long distance rides I needed something that has a better wear rate without sacrificing grip too much. PR3s fit the bill.

After doing some "market research" I decided to get them at LAB as they quoted me in the low $3XX for the PR3 vs. $425(listed price) at Unique. That's a cool $100 diff!

 

When I finally decided to buy them, the boss said that they had quite a number of customers complaining about wobbling issues about half way past the useful life. Apparently the front is made in Thailand whereas the rear is made in Spain (or the other way round) and they suspect this is the reason for the wobbling issues. They then recommended that I fit BT023s instead. I then remember that Bike magazine rated the BT023s quite well "our favourite sports touring tyre" and didn't want to take the risk of PR3s wobbling. So I went with the BT023s.

 

Haven't had time to ask for feedback on the PR3s on the tyres thread though. If you did fit the PR3, your feedback after about 8000km would be appreciated.

Firstly, Congratulation On Choosing The BridgeStone BT023 Sport Touring Tires. U hv made a right choice! Just to Share, I hv been using that BT023 TWICE, and I must say its OUTSTANDING. Just b4 the second time to change tires, I tot of changing to PR3 too. After searching for various of review on the website and video, me too go down to LAB to change. But I ask one of the guy there to bring down both PR3 & BT023 Just the REAR TIRE first to compare. Carry both, press and touch the surface. Find out that PR3 is hell very light weight, not solid/compact than BT023. Finally Change to the BT023. LAB mechanic the big size body guy then says BridgeStone the BEST! Edited by muhammad hakim

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