[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[ramsnake]

1) I don't know about the rest of the members but the discussion is about Engine oil & its oil change interval isn't it?

Every member has his/her thoughts/experience/questions to share and it's their freedom to do so.

 

Sigh…

Re-read paragraphs 9, 10 and 11 of my Post #8723

 

2) You missed out the post again even thou you have quote that particular paragraph, or you don't even bother read it before quoting it at all in the first place?

I never own a CBR1000RR or a Ducati Panigale before, so why should I compare between these bikes out of nowhere?

I compared between a CB400 & DRZ400SM and give my feedbacks & views about it. It's to share the differences with people so they can make their choices.

 

Hello!! You really don't understand my writing? All I asked was why you compared the Revo with the GSXR and why not compared the Revo with CBR1000RR and Panigale, both of which have the same OCI as the Revo. When and where did I say you owned those bikes? If you go on this basis, does it mean that you only compare the Revo to a bike you own (GSXR) although it is not a good comparison?

Para 7 & 8 of my Post #8723

 

 

3) I nv state my EO change at 4500km before, so why you keep insisting that?

Weird to keep generalizing according to your preception and assumption.

 

Ahh… thanks for the enlightenment. Indeed, it was ldslds who has a 4,500km OCI (Post #8678) whereas you recommend an OCI of 5,000km. Wow… what a big difference!

 

So, based on your 5,000km OCI and in the face of the facts and reasoning I have presented, I see that you are still insisting that your 58.3% mark down of Honda’s recommended OCI of 12,000km is justifiable? Yet, no where have you provided any further evidence to support those factors you quoted, which I have categorically disputed as being not valid reasons to justify your 5,000km or ldslds’ 4,500km OCIs.

 

Even after others have shared that they too have been applying the 10,000km OCI to their bikes and cited their valid reasons, you just thank them “for sharing” but offered no further reasons as to why people should not argue with you on your OCI. Yet, you deem it fit to continually argue with me without offering any substance/valid reasons.

 

4) No need to quote any posts, let the people read up the past 3pages of thread to check it out.

Finally we can agree on at least one point!

 

5) Yes. So who is out of point going to the extend of cyber-abuse?

Is this cyber abuse? If correcting another forum member’s misleading information/advise is considered cyber abuse, then something is very wrong with SBF as a forum. Go read other forums and check out the colourful language people use. Whilst I will admit to using some adjectives I wouldn't not normally use, this is borne out of the frustration because of the difficulty in getting you to understand a point.

 

Besides, I am not hiding behind an anonymous screen. You know who I am and have my phone number. So does kushinagar, Quincy and a few other mods, all of whom I consider to be very reasonable people and can accept suggestions for change without going into defensive mode.

 

6) Something new I learnt today that is Moderators are deserved to be criticised despite their efforts and hardwork.

It is not about hard work. It is about the relevance of the “hard work. Irrelevant hard work is a waste of time. Misleading and irrelevant “hard work” passed of as advice or guidance is bad advise. It is just that simple.

 

Thus, I am not criticising you for contributing your time and effort. I am criticising you for your stubborn nature in asking others to not argue with you and your inability, as a moderator, to provide a balanced view.

 

7) You have been mentioning about Moderator again and again.

My Info link has been around since 07/08 when I am a normal member as everyone else.

Everyone now knows what you are driving and directing at, so no need to keep emphasising that alright.

Yes, I have been emphasising this and I have explained why. Look, I did it again in this post! And I will continue emphasising this point for as long as you continue to be a moderator and you continue to dish out bad advise and/or being biased towards your own preferences.

[ldslds]

Honda recommend 12000km OCI indeed....lets be fair and take certain aspects into consideration and let me explain why i have a 4500km OCI which many people might considered it as waste of resources or money.... if those who read the reviews of revo in the authorised honda website, you can see that the fuel consumption is based on last gear travelling at 60km/hr..... which is slighlty lower than rpm4 at tachometer... thats why i concluded that the oci of 12000km in thw manual is based on that rpm....me travelling at almost 8rpm and sometime dragged to 10rpm use the 4500km oci because 12000km oci --> 4rpm(round up)

 

so using ave rpm of 9 based on my riding habit → 12000/(9/4) = 12000/ 2.25= 5333.3333333km....me, being typica kiasu singaporean wanna play safe and have a 4500km oci as i know engine oil detoriate over times and higher rpm will create more heat and debris in the gearbox.... i am providing this info based on purely my riding experience..... not 20 plus year of cos...you can still say that its not stated in the manual and 10000 km oci is safe.... u might be correct but different riders have different riding habits, nv pin point a particular someone just because he has a status over here in the forum.... i believe there is no definite answer to this OCI topic so please do not try to start any cyber battle over here by saying other people are giving bad advices and/or being biased towards blah blah blah , perhaps you need to use some of the grey matter mate ....

 

lets be fair and let the other be the judge and decide their own OCI... i can say that i did not come out with this 4500km oci based on purely the manual.... i might be wrong ! but if i am correct then happy overhauling mates!!

[SparkerS1]

Hello!! You really don't understand my writing? All I asked was why you compared the Revo with the GSXR and why not compared the Revo with CBR1000RR and Panigale, both of which have the same OCI as the Revo. When and where did I say you owned those bikes? If you go on this basis, does it mean that you only compare the Revo to a bike you own (GSXR) although it is not a good comparison?

 

So, based on your 5,000km OCI and in the face of the facts and reasoning I have presented, I see that you are still insisting that your 58.3% mark down of Honda’s recommended OCI of 12,000km is justifiable? Yet, no where have you provided any further evidence to support those factors you quoted, which I have categorically disputed as being not valid reasons to justify your 5,000km or ldslds’ 4,500km OCIs.

 

Even after others have shared that they too have been applying the 10,000km OCI to their bikes and cited their valid reasons, you just thank them “for sharing” but offered no further reasons as to why people should not argue with you on your OCI. Yet, you deem it fit to continually argue with me without offering any substance/valid reasons.

 

Is this cyber abuse? If correcting another forum member’s misleading information/advise is considered cyber abuse, then something is very wrong with SBF as a forum. Go read other forums and check out the colourful language people use. Whilst I will admit to using some adjectives I wouldn't not normally use, this is borne out of the frustration because of the difficulty in getting you to understand a point.

 

Thus, I am not criticising you for contributing your time and effort. I am criticising you for your stubborn nature in asking others to not argue with you and your inability, as a moderator, to provide a balanced view.

 

Yes, I have been emphasising this and I have explained why. Look, I did it again in this post! And I will continue emphasising this point for as long as you continue to be a moderator and you continue to dish out bad advise and/or being biased towards your own preferences.

 

1) I given you my answer but you choose to ignore it and feel agitated and frustrated again.

Don't know whether my answer to you is unacceptable or you refused to accept it.

 

2) I nv insist anything in the first place so why are you pin-pointing me in the first place?

You keep assuming that I am insisting and behaving so agressively.

I already provided your favourite Mobil company link but I wonder if you read it and understand anything from it.

 

3) Firstly, the others are sharing their opinons and experiences therefore I thank them for contributing.

Secondly, I did not argue with you therefore who is the one that is upset and keep on arguing.

Thirdly, I am sharing my views and pls view #1 for your answer.

Lastly, I mentioned that Engine Oil: Semi-syn change every 3000km, Fully-syn change every 5000km (Can +/- up to 1000km).

This is the reason why I mentioned don't argue with me as different riders have different riding habits and riding condition. This is a just a guide.

 

4) Is your method correcting information/advise?

Why should SBF follow the style of other forums?

We are fellow local riders sharing the biking culture and bond together as a big family.

Oh, you are frustrated when someone fails to understand a certain topic.

Meaning you are a person who lose temper easily, okie now we understand that.

10 000 km for an oil change in singapore on a motorcycle? Nooo way for me man!!

My sym magic manuals even states 1000km!

My gsxr 1000 states 6000km but i do them at 5000km.

Many of us do not have access to a used oil analysis nor will it be necessary lah so i dont think you can find a definite answer here.

But thanks for sharing. Perhaps technology is moving forward? Its nice to know you and your despatch friend push your oil changes and your bike still runs fine. I always believed as long as oil levels are on a safe level you can stretch your Eo changes. But i change them anyway. They are cheap insurance against a spoilt engine.

 

Following the manual at times are the best way to do so but im sceptical at 12 000km. I will never do so.

If you dont consider singapore dusty and extreme conditions, I envy your lifestyle and route.

 

SparkerS1 have always had a constructive guides for newbies thats hard to go wrong if you follow.

I doubt majority of bikers can accept oil changes at 10 000km.

 

Again, when comparing something to another, one must always compare like to like. So, 1,000km for your Sym (really??) is not a good comparison against the Revo.

 

Although the manual recommends 12,000km OCI, you mentioned that you are sceptical and will never do so. The question is whether your decision is justifiable by facts and the laws of physics or is your decision based on what you have been conditioned to do and accept or is it based on some fears you may have although the data and research indicate otherwise?

 

Just like you, I live in the tiny island called Singapore, so there is nothing to envy about my lifestyle or my normal daily route. The fact is that Singapore cannot be considered as "dusty" as intended by the manufacturer in the manual..

 

 

5) So you are still directed at criticising me isn't it? So let the people see for themselves who is the stubborn one.

 

6) Clear cut you are just upset that I happened to become a moderator and continue to flame me time after time.

So what bad advices have I given and been biased towards anything?

Edited April 25, 2013 by SparkerS1

[SparkerS1]

UPZ for SparkerS1!!

SparkerS1 have always had a constructive guides for newbies thats hard to go wrong if you follow.

 

Thanks for the support & feedback

[SparkerS1]

Years ago, it was possible to put the same oil in bikes and cars. Since then, car and bike engines have followed different design objectives. This means that nowadays, some 600cc Japanese road bikes produce twice the bhp per litre of a sports car by using engines with running speeds approaching 15,000 rpm.

 

A sporty 105bhp 1.4-litre car with a 3.2-litre sump has an engine oil stress factor of approximately 23. A sporty 0.6-litre 123bhp bike with a 2.7-litre sump, on the other hand, has an engine oil stress factor of around 76 – nearly three times that of the car.

 

Most 4-stroke bike engines contain less oil than car engines, and that oil not only has to perform in the engine, but also has to survive the high stresses of the gearbox and allow smooth clutch operation. Bike oils have to work much harder in comparison with car oil.

 

With less sophisticated oils, intense shear forces can lead to the breakdown of viscosity modifiers that prevent oils from becoming too thin as the temperature increases. When this breakdown occurs, small carbon particles are released into the oil and can form sludge deposits. These can lead to carbon and lacquer deposits especially on hot engine parts such as pistons and piston ring grooves, resulting in starting problems, power loss and failure to protect pistons from metal loss.

 

In the harsh environment of a modern bike engine, oil degrades with time, which results in a loss of the properties it was formulated to have. This degradation leads to a build-up of acids and an increase in the oil’s viscosity, which results in a reduction in your engine’s performance and the level of protection that the oil gives to engine components.

 

Your engine oil needs to be changed regularly to ensure engine longevity.

 

Taken from: http://www.shell.com.hk/en/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/motorcycles/shell-advance-best-bike/maximum-engine-protection.html

[Winners]

Years ago, it was possible to put the same oil in bikes and cars. Since then, car and bike engines have followed different design objectives. This means that nowadays, some 600cc Japanese road bikes produce twice the bhp per litre of a sports car by using engines with running speeds approaching 15,000 rpm.

 

A sporty 105bhp 1.4-litre car with a 3.2-litre sump has an engine oil stress factor of approximately 23. A sporty 0.6-litre 123bhp bike with a 2.7-litre sump, on the other hand, has an engine oil stress factor of around 76 – nearly three times that of the car.

 

Most 4-stroke bike engines contain less oil than car engines, and that oil not only has to perform in the engine, but also has to survive the high stresses of the gearbox and allow smooth clutch operation. Bike oils have to work much harder in comparison with car oil.

 

With less sophisticated oils, intense shear forces can lead to the breakdown of viscosity modifiers that prevent oils from becoming too thin as the temperature increases. When this breakdown occurs, small carbon particles are released into the oil and can form sludge deposits. These can lead to carbon and lacquer deposits especially on hot engine parts such as pistons and piston ring grooves, resulting in starting problems, power loss and failure to protect pistons from metal loss.

 

In the harsh environment of a modern bike engine, oil degrades with time, which results in a loss of the properties it was formulated to have. This degradation leads to a build-up of acids and an increase in the oil’s viscosity, which results in a reduction in your engine’s performance and the level of protection that the oil gives to engine components.

 

Your engine oil needs to be changed regularly to ensure engine longevity.

 

Taken from: http://www.shell.com.hk/en/products-services/on-the-road/consumer-lubricants-tpkg/motorcycles/shell-advance-best-bike/maximum-engine-protection.html

 

Of course they'll have to emphasize more on the different type of engine oils because they are the oil manufacturers. Who would criticize their own products? It'll be suicidal. Anyway, I never reach 15,000rpm on my REVO.

 

On the contrary, motorcycle engine oils with lesser or minimal friction modifiers, do you think it'll be good for the engine? Furthermore, all those motorcycle mineral engine oils should not be sold at all because their shear strengths will definitely not be able to withstand the 15,000rpm engine.

 

At the end of the day, I would say it'll still depend on individual's preference. For me, I'll factor in the product (oil) cost and its capability to last me 10 years of trouble free engine operation would be foremost. The REVO's engine is not some super high speed precision engine and for me, it doesn't need to use the best engine oil available.

 

I am one that always likes to go against the odds. On a side-note, people will always refrain from cruising in Neutral (N) gear for automatic transmission for motor vehicles. They claim that the gearbox will spoil earlier. I've been practicing this for the 4 years which I've owned my automatic transmission car with not a single problem on its gearbox. On the contrary, I believe it will be less stressful for the gearbox in this manner since the car will eventually come to a stop. By the way, I'll also always clutch-in for all my bikes whilst cruising to a stop and I've never need to replace a clutch before on any of my bikes I've owned, even for my previous 10-year old SUZUKI RG150. Maybe I'm the odd one out to always wanting to try against the propositions. Hopefully, I don't have to pay a heavy price in the future. Anyway, being mechanically trained myself, I still believe in my own judgement.

Edited April 26, 2013 by Winners

[tzmdegil]

Anybody install spy 5000m alarm? How much is it and where? Thnx

[Winners]

The fact is that Singapore cannot be considered as "dusty" as intended by the manufacturer in the manual.

 

This I have to agree. Otherwise, how will they classify Hongkong, Shanghai and Beijing as? "Super dusty?", lol.

 

Maybe next time the manual should state what PSI rating condition is to be used on, in order to be more specific.

[ldslds]

Anybody install spy 5000m alarm? How much is it and where? Thnx

Bro you can check it out at motorworld

[tzmdegil]

Bro you can check it out at motorworld

Ok thnx. But need to compare prices of other shop if they have

[gamerzdude]

METZELER M3 tires?

 

Would anyone like to share experience with these tires? M3 is now replaced by M5, and so the M3 is going for dirt cheap. But I wonder if they are any good for aggressive street riding up north with the occassional track days. Have not tried Metzeler before. Anyone tried?

[ramsnake]

This I have to agree. Otherwise, how will they classify Hongkong, Shanghai and Beijing as? "Super dusty?", lol.

 

Maybe next time the manual should state what PSI rating condition is to be used on, in order to be more specific.

 

"Super dusty"... LOL... Good one, @Winners

 

For the naysayers and super kiasu, here are what the experts say:

The Auto Channel

The New York Times

How Stuff Works

 

Now before anyone starts shooting, I do know that these articles are referring to OCI for cars. Yes, we are riding bikes with a wet clutch and yes, as previously stated I will talk about that when I have some time.

 

For now, let's stick to this matter - Is the vehicle manufacturer's recommended OCI reliable? If you think you ride your bike is "harsher" conditions (this is subjective, by the way), how much should you reduce the manufacturer recommended OCI to apply to your bike?

 

For those who still doubt Honda's capability in recommending an appropriate OCI guideline (why, oh why would you go and buy something from a company which you think is unreliable in the first place?!); listen to what the experts say about Honda:

 

British American Racing Team running Honda engines

 

http://youtu.be/S8ZkuuUrnTM

 

3:23 – Working with Honda engineers – “they are very disciplined people, very methodical people. We have learnt quite a lot from the Honda people in terms of approach. Their approach is quite different from ours… By having different people look at things around you, you learn more and progress more quickly.”

 

05:45 - On comparing with Jordan team’s performance “because they are using the same engines and tyres as us”. In other words when one is doing any form of comparisons, one should be comparing like with like.

[ramsnake]

METZELER M3 tires?

 

Would anyone like to share experience with these tires? M3 is now replaced by M5, and so the M3 is going for dirt cheap. But I wonder if they are any good for aggressive street riding up north with the occassional track days. Have not tried Metzeler before. Anyone tried?

 

For aggressive street riding and the occasional track days, go for the M5. Bridgestone's S20 has also had good reviews amongst the major bike magazines.

[SparkerS1]

Anyway, I never reach 15,000rpm on my REVO.

 

On the contrary, motorcycle engine oils with lesser or minimal friction modifiers, do you think it'll be good for the engine? Furthermore, all those motorcycle mineral engine oils should not be sold at all because their shear strengths will definitely not be able to withstand the 15,000rpm engine.

 

FYI power-cut kicks in at 13k rpm unless you have bypass the power-cut.

 

Motorcycle has lesser friction modifier due to the fact that it is operated by wet-clutch while automatic transmission car uses a separated transmission gearbox.

Motorcycle and car oils are very similar but there are couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation.

The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission.

As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an Automatic Transmission fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation.

 

In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage.

So motorcycle engine oil does not contain much of the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil.

The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car.

Motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

[breadman]

The pain of purchasing old bike.. 1999 Spec 1

 

Changed thermostat, water pump, 7 hoses, 4 metal pipes connector, o-rings, radiator flush, engine ice

Headlight socket, ballast..

 

Total dmg $900 after discount.

But.. gotta start saving for another set of major repairs.. after these i'll have a near-new bike!

[Winners]

FYI power-cut kicks in at 13k rpm unless you have bypass the power-cut.

 

Motorcycle has lesser friction modifier due to the fact that it is operated by wet-clutch while automatic transmission car uses a separated transmission gearbox.

Motorcycle and car oils are very similar but there are couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation.

The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission.

As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an Automatic Transmission fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation.

 

In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage.

So motorcycle engine oil does not contain much of the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil.

The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car.

Motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

 

The most common (unfounded) scare about using car engine oils in motorcycles is because of the presence of friction modifiers which almost all oil manufacturers will claim to cause clutch slippage because most motorcycles use the wet clutch system. Then how about those old British MINI MINORS which used the same principle? Personally, how many cases have you or your mechanic come across clutch slippage due to the usage of car engine oils in motorcycles?

 

Like I've mentioned before, my previous SUZUKI RG150 with 85,000km mileage and 10 years old, I don't even experience clutch slippage, or for that matter, not even a clutch problem, despite having used the car version of the MOBIL 1 engine oil on its transmission. Most of the time, clutch plates replacements are due to fair wear and tear. Another reason is the rivets becoming loose on its crown gear. So, when changing or repairing the crown gear (some workshops can also replace just the rivets to save costs), you will be advised to replace the clutch plates as well since they don't really cost much and the labor costs had already been factored in. It is also very much dependent on how the rider uses his clutch during his daily ride. Anyway, I will still believe in my own proven and tested (for 10 years) judgement. Do note that nobody is obliged to do likewise.

 

And by the way, have you come across any proven films or videos by the oil manufacturers that demonstrate or prove clutch slippage on motorcycles had been caused by the use of car engine oils? I would like to see them for myself if you can suggest any such videos to me.

 

I can agree that motorcycle engine oils may have better shear strengths compared to the car engine oils, but when the OCI is about 10,000km and a reasonably good synthetic car engine oil is used, there shouldn't be a detrimental effect on the motorcycle engine, unless the rider uses it for racing and/or tracking very often. In this case, a shorter OCI will be preferred. How often does one rev the engine to above 10,000rpm (already about 160km/h in 6th gear for the REVO) in our normal daily rides?

 

With lesser friction modifiers, the engine will get lesser protection from metal-to-metal abrasions. I wouldn't want to do an engine overhaul very much prematurely, which can be very costly, especially for 4-cylinder engines. Weighing the pros and cons, I would still choose to take the option of having better engine protection, rather than avoiding clutch slippage (and this claim is still yet to be fully proven). One can also choose those car engine oils without the "Energy Saver" (or its equivalent) tag, since such engine oils will not be blended with excessive friction modifiers.

Edited April 27, 2013 by Winners

[Leoz]

I am upgrading to class 2A soon.

But i have no idea what is the difference between the spec 1,2,3 & revo.

Can someone enlighten me about this ?

Thanks.

[ramsnake]

I am upgrading to class 2A soon.

But i have no idea what is the difference between the spec 1,2,3 & revo.

Can someone enlighten me about this ?

Thanks.

 

The main difference is how the fuel is delivered to the engine. Spec 1-3 are carburetor fed bikes whereas Revo is fuel injected (Honda PGM-FI). Every newer generation of the CB400 has some improvements. The move from carbs to FI is the biggest leap in the range.

Have a look at the history here

 

In terms of performance, Racewerks has done some good work to document what can be done with the Revo. Have a read here.

 

As you are considering buying one, do remember that the older the age of the bike, the more you will likely have to spend in terms of wear and tear repairs. One chap I know recently bought a Spec 1 and have spent $600 on repairs. He is selling that bike soon as the VTEC valve cover is leaking oil even after changing the gasket. Basically, it is like buying any vehicle so just be aware of the potential costs.

 

Do also note the prices for the Spec 3s. I personally find the prices to be high compared to the Revo due to the market inflating the price. They say this is on the basis that "it is the last generation of carburetor CB400 bikes and therefore in demand". You will have to make up your own mind on this...

[W17]

I experienced with my revo for the car & motocycler oil have different during cruising to KL with avr spd 16x km/h.

1) Castrol Activ (motor oil): Down/up shift acceleration performance consistent. Easy to reach 19x km/h.

2) Castrol Magnatec (car oil): Require longer time to max spd after 16x km/h.

3) No different when ride below 14x km/h during all the way.

4) Concluded that as higher of the rpm & cruising time, the acceleration time disparity getting more.

[Leoz]

The main difference is how the fuel is delivered to the engine. Spec 1-3 are carburetor fed bikes whereas Revo is fuel injected (Honda PGM-FI). Every newer generation of the CB400 has some improvements. The move from carbs to FI is the biggest leap in the range.

Have a look at the history here

 

In terms of performance, Racewerks has done some good work to document what can be done with the Revo. Have a read here.

 

As you are considering buying one, do remember that the older the age of the bike, the more you will likely have to spend in terms of wear and tear repairs. One chap I know recently bought a Spec 1 and have spent $600 on repairs. He is selling that bike soon as the VTEC valve cover is leaking oil even after changing the gasket. Basically, it is like buying any vehicle so just be aware of the potential costs.

 

Do also note the prices for the Spec 3s. I personally find the prices to be high compared to the Revo due to the market inflating the price. They say this is on the basis that "it is the last generation of carburetor CB400 bikes and therefore in demand". You will have to make up your own mind on this...

 

So it's more of air intake and FC is all controlled by ECU ??

Is the feed back of revo temp will heat up higher and more easily compared to using curbs ?

 

Thanks so much for your explaination.

[W17]

I am upgrading to class 2A soon.

But i have no idea what is the difference between the spec 1,2,3 & revo.

Can someone enlighten me about this ?

Thanks.

 

Recommend improve yr skill with used spec3 for 1-2yrs, then try new REVO to experience the different of vtec technology kick in & acceleration smoothness.

If not need consider the fuel & maintenance cost. Ride spec2-3 then upgrade to class2 after 1yr to get bigger cc bike with small different of machine price.

[SparkerS1]

So it's more of air intake and FC is all controlled by ECU ??

Is the feed back of revo temp will heat up higher and more easily compared to using curbs ?.

 

Most of the combustion process is electronically controlled by ECU.

 

More heat due to better and precise combustion, higher idling speed.

[SparkerS1]

Click here to view the oil change interval of CB400 riders.

 

Please poll for your oil change interval

[rouge]

Hi guys. Just bought a revo. Need ur help. My pgm fi indicator wont go off when I turn on e ignition. It wont start until multiple switching e key on n off. Have u guys encounter this?

[ramsnake]

Hi guys. Just bought a revo. Need ur help. My pgm fi indicator wont go off when I turn on e ignition. It wont start until multiple switching e key on n off. Have u guys encounter this?

 

Did you buy it from a shop? I'd suggest you take it back and have them rectify the problem. The PGM-FI light is supposed to go off after a few seconds. The light staying on indicates there is a problem with the fuel injection system.